Bleau.info : Le 111 : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

Access : at 1700m from the parking of the Vallée de la Mée, take the Chemin de Melun au Vaudoué; it is the hill to the right of the TMF / Sentier rouge crossing (alt. 111m). Please respect the engravings!

 Le 111

1L'Œil d'Icare 7cslightly overhanging / pockets / monosGilles Cottray
direct problem (slightly expo).
1L'Œil d'Icare gauche 7a+slightly overhanging / slopersFrédéric Buc
 [ 1 photo ] with the slopers to the left; slightly expo.
2Temple du Sommeil 6cslightly overhangingGilles Cottray
without the arete (eliminating); slightly expo.
2Temple du Sommeil avec l'arête 6a+-Gilles Cottray
with the arete.
3Facule Tactile 5slabGilles Cottray
stay to the right.
4Faite Hier 4areteGilles Cottray
just right of the bivouac.
5Le Trottoir 4-wallGilles Cottray
left problem on the South face of the boulder of "Le Bivouac".
6L'Étroit Trou 4wall / monosGilles Cottray
right problem on the South face of the boulder of "Le Bivouac".
7Rêve gauche 7aareteGilles Cottray
*****  [ 2 photos ] start on the right of the arete and exit on the left face.
8Chaud Latin 7barete / slopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] start as for Rêve gauche but stay on the right side of the arete; slightly expo.
9Sur le Pavé, l'Aplat 6cwall / underclingsGilles Cottray
 [ 5 photos ] start with your right hand in a hole and go to the undercling with your right hand as well.
10La Fronde 5-wallGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] stay to the left of the big pocket.
11Le Lance-Pierre 5wallGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] stay to the right of the big pocket.
12Barricades 7apillar / crack / slopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 3 photos ] start with the crack to the left.
13Joli, mais... 6bwallGilles Cottray
low start, exit diagonally to the left; slightly expo.
14Le Haut du Pavé 6cslightly overhanging / crimpsGilles Cottray
low start as for Joli, mais... and exit directly (slightly expo).
15Le Roc Fort 6atraverse fltr / belly / crimpsGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] low start as for Joli, mais..., traverse to the right and exit in a belly, without the crack.
16Fracture Sociable 4+crackGilles Cottray
evident crack to the right of Le Roc Fort.
17Le Cas Niveau 5-pillarGilles Cottray
on the left side of the pillar.
18Descente de Peau Lisse 6aslabGilles Cottray
eliminating slab.
19L'Assaut du Pas Laid Hait 6a+pillarGilles Cottray
slightly expo. NB : please respect the engravings of the "auvent Vilbert!
21La Rue Peste 6c+wall / slopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] exit via slopers.
22La Bêtise de Cambrer 6b+slightly overhanging / sitstartGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart to the right; exit without the arete at the left.
23La Femme d'un Flic 6b+belly / sitstartGilles Cottray
small belly.
24La Mutine Rit 6c+sitstart / areteGilles Cottray
sitstart and exit via the arete.
25Les Meutes 7asitstart / traverse fltr / underclingsGilles Cottray
sitstart, traverse to the right via underclings and exit with the pockets.
26Soulèvement 6b+sitstartGilles Cottray
sitstart to the right, keep to the left and exit with the holes.
27L'Homme Survolté 7b+sitstart / traverse frtl / areteGilles Cottray
sitstart to the right, traverse to the left and exit with the arete.
28Le Pin de Damocles 6c+sitstart / traverse frtl / areteGilles Cottray
sitstart to the right, traverse to the left and exit with the arete.
29L'Aller du Veau Doué 6csitstart / traverse fltr / slopersGilles Cottray
sitstart, traverse to the right and exit with slopers.
30La Chienlit 7a+sitstart / traverse frtl / slopersGilles Cottray
sitstart at a boulder, traverse to the left and exit with slopers; morpho.
31L'Arc en Ciel 6bsitstart / traverse fltr / overhangGilles Cottray
sitstart at the bottom, traverse to the right and exit in the middle of the roof.

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