95.2 : white ED- (n^o 3)

Area description
From Milly, follow the D14e in direction of Le Vaudoué and Nemours for 2km200. Take on the left La Route des Grandes Vallées for 1km, turn right (South), pass La Coix St-Jérôme, continue ahead towards a large parking lot. Walk on the Chemin de la Vallée Close for 900m; the circuits are on the right of the path, up the hill. Except at the bottom of the slope, the boulders are quick-drying.

GPS parking lot

• N 48.387608, E 2.519270

1	Le Kilo de Beurre 5	wall / high
2	La Poincenot 6b	wall / crimps
	See also:   La Poincenot sans les prises taillées 7a
3	- 5+	-
3 bis	Le Bloc à Bertrand 7a+	slopers / dyno
	start with right hand in the crack. (GPS: N48.384870 E2.531080)
3 ter	Jeté Michaud / Jump 7a+	slopers / dyno	A. Michaud
	start with left hand in the crack.
4	- 6a	slab
	start to the right
5	- 6b	slab
	start on a stone
6	- 5-	slightly overhanging
7	- 6a	slab / crimps
8	- 6b	slab
	without the left arete and the large hold at the same side (5b with the arete).
8 bis	Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet 6c	traverse frtl	Jo Montchaussé
	sitstart right around the corner and exit left up. Update: until 2002 this problem was 7a/7a+; since then easier because the holds have been "improved" by brushing them too hard. See also: P'tit Toit raccourci assis 6c
9	- 5	slightly overhanging
	See also: - 6b
10	- 6a	slightly overhanging / traverse fltr
10 bis	- 6b	slightly overhanging / arete
11	- 5+	wall
11 bis	- 6b+	wall / crimps
12	- 5+	slab / crimps
13	- 5	wall
14	- 5-	slab / expo
15	- 5-	wall
16	- 5	wall
17	- 5+	wall / slab
18	- 6b	underclings / arete
19	- 6a	wall
20	- 5	wall / slab
21	- 5-	wall
22	- 5	slab
23	- 5	wall / mantle
24	- 5+	arete / crimps
24 bis	- 6b	wall / crimps
25	- 6a	arete
26	- 5	slab
27	- 5	overhang / mantle
28	- 4+	arete
28 bis	Test de Turing 7a+	slab	Patrick Sercki / Jo Montchaussé
	to the right of red n°45; without the underclings.
29	- 5+	wall / traverse frtl
29 bis	Mister Proper 7a+	crimps / crack	Eric Ghersen / Jo Montchaussé
	to the left of Miss KGB, on the boulder with white n°29, 30 and 31.
30	- 6a	arete
31	- 5+	wall
31 bis	Tarte aux Poils / La Croupe est Pleine 6c+ (7a)	wall	Eric Ghersen / Jo Montchaussé
	to the right of white n°31. Eliminate, without the holds to the left of the arete of white n°30.
32	Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours 7a	wall	Jo Montchaussé
	slightly easier since the Fosse aux Ours silted up. (GPS: N48.385250 E2.530260)
32 bis	Fausse Danse 7a (7a+)	crimps / wall	Laurent Darlot
	in between Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours and Danse avec les Loups.
32 ter	Danse avec les Loups 7a+ (7b)	wall / arete / dyno	Marc Lemenestrel
	to the right of Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (white n°32).
33	- 5+	wall / arete
33 bis	- 6a	wall
34	- 5+	slightly overhanging / crimps
35	- 5	overhang
36	- 5	wall
37	La Fissure 6a (6b)	wall / crack
	with or without the slopers.

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