Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : 95.2 : Circuit white ED- (n°3)

95.2 : white ED- (n°3)

Area description
From Milly, follow the D14e in direction of Le Vaudoué and Nemours for 2km200. Take on the left La Route des Grandes Vallées for 1km, turn right (South), pass La Coix St-Jérôme, continue ahead towards a large parking lot. Walk on the Chemin de la Vallée Close for 900m; the circuits are on the right of the path, up the hill. Except at the bottom of the slope, the boulders are quick-drying.

GPS parking lot

N 48.387608, E 2.519270

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.384705, E 2.530814

1	Le Kilo de Beurre 5+ (5)	wall / high

2	La Poincenot 6b	wall / crimps
	See also: La Poincenot sans les prises taillées 7a
3	- 5+	-

3 bis	Le Bloc à Bertrand 7a+	slopers / dyno
	start with right hand in the crack. (GPS: N48.384870 E2.531080)
3 ter	Jeté Michaud / Jump 7a+	slopers / dyno	A. Michaud
	start with left hand in the crack.
4	- 6a	slab
	start to the right
5	- 6b	slab
	start on a stone
6	- 5-	slightly overhanging

7	Sans l'Arête 6a	slab / crimps

8	Jeu de Dalle 6b	slab
	without the left arete and the large hold at the same side (5b with the arete). See also: Jeu d'Arête 3+
8 bis	Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl	Jo Montchaussé
	sitstart right around the corner and exit left up. Update: until 2002 this problem was 7a/7a+; since then easier because the holds have been "improved" by brushing them too hard. (GPS: N48.385422 E2.531096) See also: P'tit Toit raccourci assis 6b
9	- 5	slightly overhanging
	See also: - 6b
10	- 6a+	slightly overhanging / traverse fltr

10 bis	- 6b	slightly overhanging / arete

11	- 5+	wall

11 bis	- 6b+	wall / crimps

12	- 5+	slab / crimps

13	- 5	wall

14	- 5-	slab / expo

15	- 5-	wall

16	- 5	wall

17	- 5+	wall / slab

18	- 6b	underclings / arete

19	- 6a	wall

20	- 5	wall / slab

21	- 5-	wall

22	- 5	slab

23	- 5	wall / mantle

24	- 6a	arete / crimps

24 bis	- 6b	wall / crimps

25	- 6a	arete

26	- 5	slab

27	- 5	overhang / mantle

28	- 5-	arete

28 bis	Le Test de Turing 7a+	slab	Patrick Sercki / Jo Montchaussé
	to the right of red n°45, without the underclings.
29	- 5+	wall / traverse frtl

29 bis	Mister Proper 7a+	crimps / crack	Eric Ghersen / Jo Montchaussé
	to the right of the angle of white n°30, on the face with white n°29 and Miss KGB.
30	- 6a	arete

31	Pubis Infernal 6a	wall

31 bis	Tarte aux Poils / La Croupe est Pleine 6c+ (7a)	wall	Eric Ghersen / Jo Montchaussé
	to the right of white n°31. Eliminate, without the holds to the left of the arete of white n°30.
32	Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours 7a	wall	Jo Montchaussé
	slightly easier since the Fosse aux Ours silted up. (GPS: N48.385250 E2.530260)
32 bis	Fausse Danse 7a (7a+)	crimps / wall	Laurent Darlot
	in between Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours and Danse avec les Loups.
32 ter	Danse avec les Loups 7a+ (7b)	wall / arete / dyno	Marc Le Ménestrel
	to the right of Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (white n°32).
33	- 5+	wall / arete

33 bis	- 6a	wall

34	- 5+	slightly overhanging / crimps

35	- 5	overhang

36	- 5	wall

37	La Fissure 6a+ (6b)	wall / crack
	with or without the slopers.