Bleau.info : L'Anarchodrome : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret & Pepito

1	89,4 FM 6a	traverse frtl	-
start to the right before the angle and exit to the left.
2	Ni Vieux ni Bête 7b (7a+)	traverse frtl	Max
at the North-East of the corner of le Chemin de la Charme and with Le Chemin de la Rose (second boulder; first is Soléa pour Valérie). Return and there is 7c (Benoît Faure).
3	La Main Gauche 4	wall	-
4	Le Pied Gauche 5-	wall	-
5	Libre Pensée 3+	wall	-
6	Aux Chiottes l'Armée 4+	wall	-
7	Le Goûter des Généraux 5+	wall	-
8	Bouse Toi 4+	wall	-
9	Bouse Eux 4-	wall	-
10	Bouse Un 3	wall	-
11	Anti-Phalange 5+	wall	-
12	L'Épaulette 3+	wall / arete	-
13	A.N.P.H. 6a (6b)	traverse fltr	-
start to the left of the angle of L’Épaulette, traverse to the right and exit in Anti-Phalange.
14	Le Cênétiste 3	wall	-
15	La Pincée Libertaire 3	wall	-
16	Les Petits Sergents 3	wall	-
17	Mains Froides 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	-
sitstart at the angle, traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
18	Matricule 2455 3	wall	-
19	Cr-Mo 7b	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
sitstart with two hands on slopers, traverse to the left, pass the crack and the belly and exit in the wall.
20	Soléa pour Valérie 7c	traverse fltr	Max
5m above Ni Vieux Ni Bête; there and back is 8a+ (Benoît Faure).
20a	Penchant Mortel 7a	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Alain Denis
on the boulder of Soléa pour Valérie.
20b	Mort d'une Scorpion 7b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Alain Denis
on the boulder of Soléa pour Valérie.
21	L'Ultra Gauche 6b+ (6c)	wall	-
exit of La Colonne Durutti, without the good left hold at the top.
22	Drapeau Noir 6a	wall	-
on the wall of the start of La Colonne Durutti.
22b	La Colonne Durutti 8a	traverse fltr	Benoît Faure
5m to the North of Soléa pour Valérie (in the forest before you cross the route towards the circuits). Start as for Drapeau Noir, traverse to the right via slopers, downclimb a crack, low traverse with the columns, climb the second crack, continue on slopers and exit at the end of the other face as for L'Ultra Gauche. There and back is 8c.
22c	Carpe Diem (La Colonne Durutti avec boucle) 8b	traverse	Jacky Godoffe
longer version of La Colonne Durruti (75 moves).
22c'	La Colonne du Tigre 8c	traverse	Arnaud Ceintre
make the back traverse of La Colonne Durruti and continue by Carpe Diem (130 moves!)
22d	La Fissure Rebelle 6a (6b)	crack	-
only the crack of Carpe Diem.
23	La Commune 4	wall	-
24	Le Sourcier 6a+ (6b)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart in a slightly overhanging wall.
25	Demi-Portion 6a	slightly overhanging	-
sitstart in the belly.
26	Premier Quart 6a (6b)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart to the left of a tree.
27	Passepoil 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start at the left angle, take the vertical holds and exit to the right.
28	La Fissure de Lecoin Réfractaire 6b+	wall / crack	-
behind the boulder facing La Colonne Durruti; without the left arete. NB : the 7a+ version of Lecoin Réfractaire is a direct problem to the right.
28b	Lecoin Réfractaire 7a+	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
behind the boulder facing La Colonne Durruti. On the right of the slightly overhanging wall, without the crack of La Fissure de Lecoin Réfractaire.
29	Lecoin gauche 5 (5+)	wall / arete	-
round arete to the left of a slightly overhanging wall behind the boulder facing La Colonne Durruti.
30	L'Inversée Satanique 4 (4+)	wall / underclings	-
31	La Voie Bombidoux 6a (6a+)	traverse frtl	-
start in L’Inversée Satanique, traverse to the left and exit in Le Bombidoux.
32	Le Bombidoux 5+	wall	-
exit of La Voie Bombidoux.
33	Fatigue 5-	wall	-
exit of the traverse of Cristal de Lune.
34	L'Amour du Rock 5	wall / crack	-
in the middle of the traverse of Cristal de Lune; start between the two stones.
35	Précipice 5+	wall / high	Pepito
high wall at the start of Cristal de Nuit.
35b	Cristal de Lune / Cristal de Nuit 7a+	traverse frtl	Francis Hélias
100m to the right of the parking lot, on the first evident boulder towards the circuits. Start in Précipice, traverse to the left and exit on the other side in Fatigue. There and back is 7c.
36	Rocher Trompeur 5+	wall	Pepito / Yann Bruneau
to the left of Frivolité, on the Eastern face of the second evident boulder towards the circuits (boulder to the right of the 7a+ traverse Cristal de Nuit); start just right of the crack.
36b	Frivolité / Ronces et Bosses 5+ (6a)	wall	Jacques Prade
100m to the right of the parking lot, on the Eastern face of the second evident boulder towards the circuits (boulder to the right of the 7a+ traverse Cristal de Nuit).
37	La Chouette 6a	wall	-
100m to the right of the parking lot, on the North face of the second evident boulder towards the circuits (boulder to the right of the 7a+ traverse Cristal de Nuit).
37b	L'Arête de la Chouette 5-	arete	-
to the right of La Chouette, 100m to the right of the parking lot, on the second evident boulder towards the circuits (boulder to the right of the 7a+ traverse Cristal de Nuit).
37c	La Chouette directe 6c	wall	-
eliminate of La Chouette, without the pocket on the right.
38	Droit de Vent 5 (5+)	wall	Jacques Prade
start left hand in the jug and right hand with a crimp.
39	Haut les Mains 5 (5+)	wall / crimps / slopers	Jacques Prade
start with crimps and exit via slopers.
40	Simple Moment 4- (3-)	slab	-
eliminating slab to the right of the tree.
41	Sans les Mains 3-	slab	-
42	Vent Frais 6a	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart and exit to the right.
43	Coup de Barre 5 (5+)	wall / slopers	-
mur avec sortie sur rondeurs.
44	Remise en Forme 3+	wall	-
45	Les Murs Rien 5+	wall	Jacques Prade
eliminate to the left of the tree.
46	Pince-Mi 5+	wall	-
to the right of the tree.
47	La Mousse Tangue / Pince-Toi 4+	wall	-
48	Entre Roc 5+	slightly overhanging	-
49	Courbure 4	wall	-
central problem in the wall.
49b	Petit Mouchet 4-	wall	-
50	Façade 4	wall	-
left problem in the wall.
51	Les Bouteilles 5-	pillar / slopers / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart of the pillar to the left of Paresseux; exit on slopers.
51b	Le Paresseux 4-	wall / slopers	Jacques Prade
to the right of the pillar of Les Bouteilles.
52	Jaco 5+	wall	Jacques Prade
just left of Larmes du Tigre, in the wall of La Muse Gueule.
52b	La Muse Gueule / Fourberies 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr	-
sitstart to the left of Le Paresseux, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face in La Bourgeoisie.
53	Les Larmes du Tigre 6b+	wall	Jacques Prade
left problem in the wall of the exit of La Muse Gueule. Start with a pocket right hand.
53b	La Bourgeoisie 6a	wall	Jacques Prade
right problem in the wall of the exit of La Muse Gueule.
54	L'Art Beau Rit Colle 7a	traverse fltr	-
start completely left, traverse to the right, pass the belly near the trees and exit in the dihedral.
55	Vertige 6c	traverse frtl / crack	-
exit in the dihedral as for L’Art Beau Rit Colle.
55b	La Colonne d'Hercule 5+	crack / mantle	-
exposed crack and mantle.
56	Le Bras Long 5+	wall	-
start with an undercling left hand.
56b	Eden Rock 6c+	traverse fltr	Pepito
start left of Bras Long, traverse to the right and exit in Soyons Proudhon.
57	Court-Jus 6b	wall	Pepito
between Le Bras Long and La Raclette; start with a pocket left hand.
57b	La Raclette 6a	wall	Jacques Prade
start with two hands on a horizontal crimp.
57c	La Fissure 6b	crack	Pepito
to the right of La Raclette; exit as for Le Voleur de Vents.
58	Le Voleur de Vents 6a	wall / dyno	Jacques Prade / Pepito
diagonal to the left just left of Soyons Proudhon.
58b	Soyons Proudhon 6b+ (6c)	wall	-
low start is 6c.
59	Bruits de Fond 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
start to the left with slopers, traverse to the right and exit in the belly.
59b	Bruits de Fond en aller-retour 7b+	traverse	Bernard Théret
there and back of Bruits de Fond.
60	Le Vautour 5+ (6a)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart with small underclings.
61	La Bascule 3+ (4-)	slab / arete	-
6b+ starting with a traverse in the wall between the two boulders.
62	La Mousse Tache 6a	wall / slopers	-
mur à rondeurs.
63	Les Vacances à la Bourboule 7a+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart to the left, traverse left and up through a belly and exit past a little crack.
64	Le Soc 5+	wall	-
mur à rondeurs.
65	Rébellion 6a+	arete / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart just left of Sacco.
66	Sacco 6a+	slightly overhanging / arete	-
on the left angle; right exit is 6c.
67	Semelles de Plomb 5+ (6a)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart in a small belly.
68	Vanzetti 6b	slightly overhanging	-
low start to the right.
68b	La Gondolière 7a+	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl	-
start in Vanzetti, traverse to te left with top holds, downclimb slghtly in the round crack and exit to the left.
69	Prise de Risque 5+ (6a)	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
start with a good hold right hand and exit via slopers.
70	Prise de Bec 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging	-
to the left of a crack.
71	Prise Électrique 5+ (6a)	wall / crimps	-
vertical problem on crimps.
71b	Prise de Tension 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
partir main droite sur une verticale et main gauche avec la prise en forme de croissant.
72	Autoroute du Sommeil 6c	traverse fltr / slopers	-
start completely left, traverse to the right and exit on slopers.
72b	Autoroute du Sommeil en aller-retour 7a+	traverse	Bernard Théret
to the right and underneath Bruit de Fond. There and back, fltr and frtl of Autoroute du Sommeil.
73	Toit et Doigts 6a (6a+)	roof	-
sitstart with a pocket under the roof.
74	Le Grand Veneur / Fumet d'Ordure 6a (6a+)	traverse frtl / roof	-
start to the right, traverse to the left and exit via the roof.
75	Croissants Chauds 5+	wall	-
partir avec les deux mains sur le plat en forme de «S».
76	Dernier Refuge 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / mantle	-
start to the left between the two boulders, traverse to the right and exit via a mantle.
77	Boule Haut 6a	wall / mantle / high	-
exit via a mantle on a bowl.
78	Doigt Ferré 6b	wall / crimps	-
vertical problem on crimps.

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