Bleau.info : Rocher d'Avon : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

From Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, follow the N6 for 2200 mètres and park at Le Carrefour de la Mayenne. Take Le Chemin de la Percée up to the crossing with the blue path. The first boulders are easily seen on the left, with the huge Dame Jeanne d'Avon, and the other sectors can be find further along the path.

		Circuit AD orange (nº 1)
1	Les Sentinelles 3-	wall	-
2	- 3+	slab	-
3	- 3	-	-
4	La Dalle au Gratton 3-	slab / crimps	-
5	Le Petit Grépon 2+	slab	-
6	La Roche Feuilletée 3-	-	-
7	- 3-	-	-
8	- 2+	slab	-
9	- 3-	slab	-
10	- 2+	slab	-
11	- 3-	-	-
11 bis	- 3+	-	-
12	Le Petit Dru 2+	-	-
12 bis	- 3	-	-
13	- 4-	-	-
14	L'Adhérence 2+	-	-
14 bis	La Tangente 3	-	-
15	- 3-	-	-
16	- 4	-	-
17	La Claudie 3-	slab / crack	-
17 bis	- 3+	wall	-
18	La Pénible 4-	-	-
19	Le Jeu de Dalles 4	slab	-
19 bis	Le Pas de Géant 4-	-	-
arete right hand just right of La Toile Cirée, on the boulder of orange n°19.
20	- 4-	wall / crimps	-
21	Le Toboggan 3-	wall	-
22	L'Éléphant 3	wall / crack	-
		Circuit AD+ blue
0	- 2	wall / slab / crack	-
on the crest, 150m to the East of La Route de Diane.
1	Le Surplomb Jaune 5-	slightly overhanging	-
topo 13b | left problem on the face of L'Arc à Diane, on the crest, in the sector Diane.
2	L'Angle 3+	pillar	-
3	L'Éclair 3	traverse frtl / slab	-
4	- 3-	slab / wall	-
5	La Chamoniarde 3-	crack	-
sistart is 4b.
6	Le Grand Réta 3+	mantle	-
7	L'Exposito 3+	slab / high	-
topo 53 | high slab on the South face of La Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon.
8	La Muraille de Chine 3+	traverse fltr	-
topo 45 | on a boulder to the North of La Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon.
9	La Cheminée 4-	chimney	-
on the boulder of La Tranquillité, along the blue path, after the boulder of Danseur.
10	Le Pavé 3	wall	-
on the other side of the yellow path with respect to La Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon.
Sector Dame Jeanne
1	Les Dentelles 3-	wall	-
former orange n°4, to the right of the actual orange n°2.
2	Le Surplomb 6c	overhang / mantle	-
on the small boulder against La Dame Jeanne d'Avon, to the opposite of Le Fil à Plomb.
3	Fil à Plomb 7b+	wall / crimps / expo	Stéphan Denys
in between Cosa Nostra and Cartoon, on La Dame Jeanne d'Avon (former end of circuit orange AD n°1).
4	Cartoon 7a	wall / crack	Olivier Carrière
left crack, on the other side of Calamity Jane, on La Dame Jeanne d'Avon (former end of circuit orange AD n°1). Direct start is 7b.
5	La Fissure de droite 7a	crack	-
to the right of Cartoon, on La Dame Jeanne d'Avon (former end of circuit orange AD n°1).
6	L'Angle 3-	-	-
former orange n°1, on the boulder to the right of Cosa Nostra (Dame Jeanne d'Avon).
7	Cosa Nostra 7c	slab / crack / expo	Emmanuel Ratouis
on La Dame Jeanne d'Avon (former end of circuit orange AD n°1). Start in Calamity Jane at a characteristic conch, but traverse immediately to the right and exit in the crack.
8	Calamity Jane 7b	slab / crimps / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
left slab on the North face of La Dame Jeanne d'Avon (former end of circuit orange AD n°1). Start in a characteristic flared conch, take a big crimp right hand and a pinch left hand and exit just above.
9	Belle Envolée 4	high	-
to the left of Calamity Jane, on the boulder of La Dame Jeanne d'Avon.
10	La Dame Jeanne d'Avon 2+	arete / high	-
former orange n°20, on the boulder of La Dame Jeanne d'Avon.
11	La Dalle en Pente 2	slab	-
former orange n°2, at the North-West of the sector, above the access path.
11b	La Dalle à gauche 2	slab	-
former orange n°2 bis, at the North-West of the sector, above the access path.
12	Basta 7a+	dyno / roof	Marc Montchaussé
20m to the left of Cosa Nostra, on the other side of the path, on the boulder next to the former orange n°18. Start on a ledge on the right of the roof and dyno to the top.
12'	Basta assis 7b+ (7c)	sitstart / roof / dyno	Marc Montchaussé
sitstart on the left, traverse via the horizontal crack and exit in Basta.
13	Rasta 7a	roof / dyno / mantle	Gérald Coste
sitstart on the left as for Basta assis and exit directly via a dyno.
13	Rasta prolongé 7a+ (7b)	roof / dyno / mantle	Manuel Marquès
standing start to the right with a good ledge left hand and the arete right hand and exit in Rasta.
14	Le Zigzag 3-	-	-
former orange n°18, on the boulder underneath the one with Basta.
15	L'Avon Rateur 7a+	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of the overhanging prow to the left and slightly underneath Basta. NB : first known realization by Gilles Cottray.
16	Dual Choc 7a (6c)	arete	Laurent Darlot
to the right of Pulsion, underneath the blue path n°10, 30m to the left of Basta. Use a heel hook and exit to the left of the arete.
17	Pulsion 7c (7c+)	overhang	Stéphan Denys
to the left of Dual Choc, underneath the blue path n°10, 30m to the left of Basta. Start from a stone or a crashpad and exit with a heel hook.
18	- 5-	arete / sitstart	-
to the left of orange n°7. Sitstart at the angle and exit 1m to the left.
19	Le Grand Boulevard 4-	-	-
former orange n°9, near the blue path, on a boulder with an engraved inscription.
20	Le Rétablissement assis 5	wall / crack / sitstart	-
sitstart of former orange n°8, on a cracked triangular face near the path.
21	Le Rétablissement 3	mantle	-
former orange n°8, on a cracked triangular face near the path.
21b	L'Hérétique 2+	-	-
former orange n°8 bis, on a boulder to the North of the actual orange n°14.
22	Le Pendu 5+	wall	-
on the right face of the boulder of orange n°12.
22b	- 4+	pillar	-
belly to the right of Le Pendu, on the right face of the boulder of orange n°12.
23	O Reguinho 4+ (4)	wall / crack / crimps	Frédéric Bodin
3m to the left of orange n°18. Climb a crack left hand with crimps and exit to the right of a bonsai on slopers.
23b	- 4+	wall	-
to the right of the crack of O Reguinho, on the left on the face of orange n°18.
24	Récréation 4+	wall	-
to the right of orange n°18.
25	Le Pied à Coulisse 5	slab	-
on a boulder of orange n°18, to the West of the boulder with Le Danseur and orange n°19 and 19 bis.
26	Soupçons 6a	arete	Pepito
on the big boulder boulder in between orange n°18 and orange n°19, to the opposite of Le Pied à Coulisse and to the West of Le Danseur.
26b	L'Orgueilleux 6a	wall	Bruno Riote / Pepito
right problem on the big boulder in between orange n°18 and orange n°19, to the opposite of Le Pied à Coulisse and to the West of Le Danseur.
27	L'Étau Limeur / La Lime à Ongles 5+ (6a)	slab	Pepito
on the backside of Free of Charge, on the boulder with "HEAD" graffiti, to the left of Le Danseur.
28	Préchauffage 4-	wall / crack	-
to the right of Free of Charge, on the boulder with the graffiti "HEAD", to the opposite of left of orange n°19.
29	Free of Charge 6c	wall	-
start on big vertical hold at the graffiti "HEAD", on the boulder to the opposite of left of orange n°19 and Le Danseur.
30	L'Arête Verte 2	arete	-
former orange n°14, to the right of Le Danseur, on the boulder of orange n°19.
31	- 5-	wall / arete	-
wall followed by an oblique arete just right of Le Danseur, on the boulder of orange n°19.
32	Le Danseur 7b	wall / dyno	Bruno Dizien
on the boulder of Pluie Acide, right around the corner of orange n°19 bis, without using the arete.
33	L'Angle direct 5	arete	-
arete left hand to the right of orange n°19 bis, on the boulder of La Toile Cirée and Le Danseur.
34	Toile Cirée 5	slab	-
to the right of the blue path (from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de la Mayenne), on the boulder of orange n°19 bis and Le Danseur.
35	- 4-	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart on the right at the arete to the left of the face of orange n°19.
36	Jeu que Dalle 6c (6c+)	wall / slopers / mantle	Pepito
on the opposite side of Le Danseur, in the corridor, on the boulder with orange n°19 and 19 bis. With or without knees...
37	Défaut de Pixels 7a (7a+)	wall / arete / slopers	Pascal Etienne
to the right of Pluies Acides, on the boulder of orange n°19 and 19 bis.
38	Pluie Acide 7a	wall / slopers	-
in the corridor to the right of Le Danseur, on the boulder with orange n°19 and 19 bis.
39	La Diagonale 6a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Rotillon
sitstart in a slightly overhanging wall, to the left of orange n°20.
39'	Julovska 6c	wall / crimps	Marc Lehner / Maël Derio
to the left of Julovsky, on the backside of the boulder of La Diagonale, 20m from Le Danseur. Start with an evident crimp right hand.
39''	Julovsky 6c+	wall / slopers	Marc Lehner / Maël Derio
to the right of Julovska, on the backside of the boulder of La Diagonale, 20m from Le Danseur. Start with a flat horizontal ledge and exit slightly to the right (direct exit is harder).
40	La Fausse Tranquillité 5-	arete / slopers	-
direct arete between orange n°21 and orange n°22.
41	Appel d'Urgence 5+	wall / slab	Pepito / Bruno Riote
on the boulder to the left of Toile Cirée, to the right of the corridor.
42	Jérémiades 5+	wall	-
on the boulder to the left of Toile Cirée, in the middle of the corridor.
43	Les Ciseaux 5+	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart just left of Les Jérémiades, in the middle of the corridor, on the boulder to the left of Toile Cirée.
44	L'Étrave 4-	pillar	-
former orange n°16, underneath the blue path.
45	Le Pilier Dérobé 6a	pillar	-
to the right of L'Étrave, underneath the blue path.
46	Les Doigts de Paille 7c+ (8a)	wall / crimps	Thomas Willenberg
to the right of Le Pilier Dérobé, underneath the blue path. NB : this problem, initially graded 7a, has been rediscovered by Thomas Willenberg after crimps broke off. He has also realized a sitstart (8a/8a+).
47	La Fresque 3	-	-
former orange n°17.
Sector Petite Dame Jeanne
1	- 5	crack	-
evident crack on the South face of the boulder of Électron.
2	Électron 6b (6a+)	arete	Pepito / Bruno Riote
150m beyond Le Danseur, following the blue then the yellow path eastward; obvious boulder to the right of the path; the sitstart is 6c.
3	Interaction 6a+ (6b)	arete	-
arete right hand on the right of Électron, along the yellow path. A static or a dynamic method are possible.
4	Le Sentier Jaune 4+	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of the pillar to the left of Morceau de Choix, along the yellow path.
5	Bac 4 Plus 4+	wall	Pascal Etienne
direct problem in the middle of the traverse of Le Sentier Bleu.
6	Lumineux 4	arete / mantle	Gilles Cottray
arete at the start of the traverse of Le Sentier Bleu.
6'	Sentier Bleu 6a	traverse frtl	-
traverse to the left from the angle, on the boulder above "La Petite Dame d'Avon", along the blue path. It is possible to use low holds or (athletic) top holds and the back traverse is slightly harder (6a+/6b).
7	Morceau de Choix 7a	wall / arete	Pepito / Bruno Riote
wall with the left arete on the boulder above "La Petite Dame d'Avon", along the blue path. NB : this problem has become much more difficult since holds broke off.
8	Geek 7b+ (7c)	wall	David Evrard / Olivier Lebreton
to the right of Morceau de Choix, underneath the blue path. Start with an undercling and exit with oblique crimps and slopers.
9	Second Choix 5	slab	-
slab on the backside of the boulder of Morceau de Choix, in the sector Petite Dame Jeanne.
10	L'Invendu 5	overhang / crack / sitstart	-
sitstart of the overhang on the boulder to the right of Morceau de Choix, in the sector Petite Dame Jeanne. Caution : fragile holds, take care!
11	Le Requin 6a	arete	Pepito
just underneath the hairpin bend of the blue path, before the "Petite Dame d'Avon".
12	Jeunesse Volée 6c	wall / slopers	Laurent Darlot
left problem on the boulder 8m to the right and above La Dalle aux Pas Perdus.
12'	Jeunesse Volée assis 7a (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Etienne / François Louvel
left problem on the boulder 8m to the right and above La Dalle aux Pas Perdus. Sitstart in the overhang with the pedestal (7a) or without that one (7b), traverse to the left and exit on slopers as for Sans Papiers.
13	Secret d'Alcôve 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers	Laurent Darlot
right problem on the boulder 8m to the right and above La Dalle aux Pas Perdus.
13b	Secret d'Alcôve assis 7a (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Etienne / François Louvel
right problem on the boulder 8m to the right and above La Dalle aux Pas Perdus. Sitstart in the overhang with the pedestal (7a) or without that one (7b) and exit directly on slopers.
14	La Dalle au Trou de gauche 4	slab	Pepito
left problem on a boulder to the West of Jeunesse Volée.
15	La Dalle au Trou 6a+	slab	Éric Puls
central problem on a boulder to the West of Jeunesse Volée.
16	L'Angle de la Dalle au Trou 4	arete	Pepito
right problem on a boulder to the West of Jeunesse Volée.
17	La Vague 6a+	slab	Éric Puls
on a slab 20m to the West and underneath the boulder of La Dalle aux Pas Perdus.
18	La Dalle aux Pas Perdus 7a (6c)	slab / crimps	Laurent Darlot
in the North face, underneath the blue path, 40m to the West of Abysse (Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon).
19	Méthode Couet 6b+	wall / slopers	-
to the left of La Dalle aux Pas Perdus, in the North face, underneath the blue path, 40m to the West of Abysse (Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon)
20	- 2	slab	-
slab on the West face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
21	- 4-	arete	Pierre Coulon
right angle on the East face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire. 5b without the arete.
22	L'Ondulation 5 (4+)	dihedral / crack	Éric Puls
cracked dihedral on the North face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
23	Pente Douce 6a	arete	Éric Puls
left angle on the East face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
23'	Pente Douce assis 6b+	arete / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
sitstart of the left angle on the East face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
24	Toboggan 3	slab	-
friction slab on the East face of the boulder just above Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
25	Conte n°1 3+	slab	Éric Puls
right problem on the West face of the boulder of Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
26	Conte n°2 5-	slab / wall	Éric Puls
central problem on the West face of the boulder of Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
27	Conte n°3 5-	wall / slab	Éric Puls
left problem on the West face of the boulder of Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
28	Le Renard et le Corbeau / Bouffée d'Avane 6c	slab / crimps	Éric Puls / Laurent Darlot
to the right of La Ronce, 50m to the North-East and underneath the hairpin bend of the blue path, before "La Petite Dame d'Avon".
29	La Ronce / Prostitution 5	crack	Éric Puls / Laurent Darlot
between Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire and Bouffée d'Avane, 50m to the North-East and underneath the hairpin bend of the blue path, 30m to the West of Abysse (Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon).
30	Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire 6c+	wall / arete / slopers	Laurent Darlot
underneath the hairpin bend of the blue path, 30m to the West of d'Abysse (Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon). Left problem.
31	Les Rayures 6b+	wall / crack	Laurent Darlot
right problem on the east face of the boulder of Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
32	Va par Là 5+	wall / arete	Éric Puls
left problem on the east face of the boulder of Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
33	Ève 3	slab	-
left problem on the East face of the boulder 15m underneath Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
34	Nadia 4	slab / pillar	Pascal Etienne
right problem on the East face of the boulder 15m underneath Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire. Two starts are possible.
35	Féminité 5-	slab	-
in the center of the North face of the boulder 15m underneath Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
36	Roman par P 5+	slab / expo	Pascal Etienne
right problem on the North face of the boulder 15m underneath Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
37	Le Râtelier 4	crack	-
gully to the right of Les Chiens de Garde, on the West face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac.
38	Les Chiens de Garde 5+	slightly overhanging / arete	-
on a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac. Sitstart in the overhang and climb the arete without using the gully on the right.
39	Assis sur le Non 4+	crack / slab	Pascal Etienne
on the North face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac. Standing start to the left of Les Chiens de Garde, climb the crack and exit by a slab.
39	Assis sur le Non assis 6c	roof / crack / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
on the North face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac. Sitstart to the left of Les Chiens de Garde, completely low in the roof with a small pocket, climb the crack and exit by a slab.
40	- 5	slab	Alexis Etienne
right slab on the North face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac.
41	- 4+	slab	Alexis Etienne
central slab on the North face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac.
42	- 4-	slab	Alexis Etienne
left slab on the North face of a boulder at the bottom of the slope, 40m above La Route de Cheyssac.
43	Bauge Est 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of the overhang 20m to the East of Féminité, underneath Évaporée / L'Angle Réfractaire.
44	- 3+	wall / mantle	-
only the exit of La Muraille de Chine (former blue n°8).
46	Le Passe-Muraille 6c	wall / slopers / mantle	Pascal Etienne / Sébastien Papillon
cracked wall with slopers 2m50 to the left of the beginning of the traverse of La Muraille de Chine (former blue n°8).
47	Face Blok 8a	traverse fltr / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder to the left of Le Passe-Muraille, underneath La Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon. Sitstart in Cosette, traverse on crimps and exit via the right angle.
48	Cosette 5-	arete	Alexis Etienne / Pascal Etienne
left problem on the boulder underneath a La Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon. Sitstart is 6a/b.
49	Sensuelle et sans Sucre 7b	wall / high	Pascal Etienne
just right of Dièdre, on the boulder of Abysse (Petite Dame Jeanne d'Avon).
50	Le Dièdre 5+	crack / dihedral	-
to the right of Abysse, on the boulder of "La Petite Dame d'Avon".
51	Abysse 7a	crack / wall / expo	Pepito
on the remarkable boulder "La Petite Dame d'Avon", 200m after the classical area, underneath blue path n°10. Start in the pit, in the crack to the right of Impatience, exit in that one via a round arete.
52	Impatience 7a	wall / arete / expo	Pepito
on the remarkable boulder "La Petite Dame d'Avon", 200m after the classical area, underneath blue path n°10. Start in the pit (to the left of Abysse) and exit via the round arete.
54	Le Passe-Plats 7a	wall / slopers	-
wall above "La Petite Dame d'Avon", 200m after the classical area, underneath blue path n°10. Start with good hold from the small boulder on the left or via a dyno from the ground.
54'	La Chosette 7b	wall / slopers	Stéphan Denys / Frank Scherrer
above "La Petite Dame d'Avon", 200m after the classical area, underneath blue path n°10. Static start from the ground of Le Passe-Plat.
55	La Verdure 5+	-	Pepito
on the boulder just above "La Petite Dame d'Avon".
56	Die Linke 6a+	arete / sitstart	Alexis Etienne / Pascal Etienne
sitstart of the left arete, on the boulder of Ion.
57	Anode 1 4	wall / wall / crack	-
to the left of Ion, in the sector Petite Dame Jeanne.
58	Ion 5+	wall	Pepito / Bruno Riote
diagonal to the right along the blue path, above"La petite dame d'Avon".
59	Électrolyse 5-	wall / crack / dyno	-
between Ion and Catho-Dick.
60	Catho-Dick 5+	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of Ion, in the sector Petite Dame Jeanne.
61	Chauffe Marcel 3	slightly overhanging	-
blue arrow to the left of Catho-Dick. Sitstart is 4b.
63	Le Péril Jeune 6a	arete / slopers / expo	Romain Monnier
on a boulder to the left of the path, 50m after the loop of the blue path. Start in the pit and exit via the right arete.
Sector Diane
1	Le Col Chic 6c+	pillar / slopers	Gilles Cottray
round pillar along La Route de Diane, at a pass.
2	Danse avec Toit 6b	slightly overhanging / slopers	Pepito
near La Route de Diane.
3	Mauvaise Pente 5	slab	Pepito
just left of the arete of Plein Soleil.
4	Plein Soleil 6a	arete	Pepito
to the East of La Route de Diane, on the crest.
5	Le Chapeau de Diane 6b	wall / dyno	Pepito
dyno to the left of Le Jet d'Eau de Diane, on the wall just right of Plein Soleil.
6	Le Jet d'Eau de Diane 6c	wall / dyno	Pepito
direct dyno in the middle of the wall just right of Plein Soleil.
6b	Gilles Cote Raide 5	wall / arete	Pascal Etienne
start in the wall to the right of Le Jet d'Eau de Diane and exit by the right arete.
7	Appel du Pied 5	slab	Pepito
on the boulder of former blue n°2, just after Plein Soleil; morpho.
8	Lame et Diane 7b+	wall / slopers / dyno	Gilles Cottray
just after Plein Soleilon the boulder of former blue n°2. Start with the arete right hand, dyno and exit with slopers.
9	Le Bas Bleu 5-	pillar / sitstart	-
sitstart of L'Angle (n°2 of the abandoned blue circuit), on the boulder just after Plein Soleil.
10	Chasse et Croisé 6b+	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
in the North face of the sector Diane, underneath the crest.
11	L'Étreinte 7b	pillar / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a round pillar in the North face of the sector Diane, underneath the crest.
11a	- 4-	mantle	-
former blue number, in the middle of the traverse of La Mange Peau, on the crest, in the sector Diane.
11b	La Mange Peau 4+	traverse fltr	Jean-Claude Valluet
on the South face of a boulder on the crest, in the sector Diane.
12	Le Chasse-Peau 6a	slab / arete	Gilles Cottray
to the right of L'Arc à Diane, on the crest, in the sector Diane. Sitstart is 6a+.
12'	- 5+	arete	Gilles Cottray
to the right of L'Arc à Diane, on the crest, in the sector Diane.
12b	- 4+	wall	Pascal Etienne
small wall to the right of Le Chasse-Peau.
13	L'Arc à Diane 5	arete	-
double arete on the crest, in the sector Diane.
13a	- 4+	dihedral	-
right problem (former blue number) to the left of L'Arc à Diane, on the crest, in the sector Diane.
13c	- 3	mantle	-
in the sector Diane, to the right of Le Surplomb Jaune (former blue n°1).
13d	- 5-	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder of Surplomb Jaune (former blue n°1). Traverse on a ledge and exit in a dihedral.
14	Chasse à Court 5-	slightly overhanging	-
on the boulder to the East of L'Arc à Diane, on the crest, in the sector Diane.
14b	Encore plus Court 4	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the left of Chasse à Court.
15	Les Rondeurs de Diane 4+	slab	Gilles Cottray
on a boulder to the East of L'Arc à Diane, just under the crest, in the sector Diane.
16	Le Pressoir 5-	slab	Gilles Cottray
completely to the East of the sector Diane. NB : the exit is complicated by a dead tree on the top of the boulder (September 2009).
17	Le Presse Pas Pieds 7a	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of the round arete to the right of Le Pressoir, completely to the East of the sector Diane.
18	Le Presse t'Atterre 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
completely to the East of the sector Diane, to the right of Le Pressoir (tree on the boulder). Sitstart to the left of the stone, traverse between the two cracks and exit above the stone.
18'	Le Presse t'Atterrre droite 6c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
completely to the East of the sector Diane, to the right of Le Pressoir (tree on the boulder). Sitstart on the stone and exit just above.
19	Le Presse-Bouc 6a	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of Le Pressoir, completely to the East of the sector Diane.
20	Site Rond 5	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the backside of the boulder of Le Pressoir, completely to the East of the sector Diane.
21	L'Après Séance 6b+	slightly overhanging / crack	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of Le Pressoir, completely to the East of the sector Diane. Traverse diagonally to the left and exit by the crack.
22	Unis Vers Cythère 7b+	traverse frtl / arete / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of Le Pressoir, completely to the East of the sector Diane. Start right, low traverse and exit in Le Presse Pas Pieds. NB : the exit is complicated by a dead tree on the top of the boulder (September 2009).
		Outside the topo
Freak of the Weak 7c+		roof / arete / dyno	Kees Mak
20m to the left of Cosa Nostra, on the other side of the path, on the boulder next to the former orange n°18. Start with the same ledge as for Basta, climb to right arete and exit on top of the boulder with that one.
La Roche Feuilletée 2+		-	-
former orange n°6.
La Tranquillité 5		arete / slopers	-
on the boulder of La Cheminée (former blue n°9), along the blue path, after the boulder of Danseur.
Master of Puppets 7b (7a+)		prow / roof	Ivan Moreels
20m underneath Le Grand Boulevard (former orange n°9 with an engraved inscription). Standing start at the bottom of the boulder with an undercling left hand and a crimp right hand and exit directly in the overhanging prow.
MR73 7c		arete / slopers / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
20m underneath Le Grand Boulevard (former orange n°9 with an engraved inscription). Sitstart 3m to the left of the start of the prow of Master of Puppets, climb the arete and exit at the same point of that problem by staying on the left arete of the prow.
La Question des Tiques 5-		traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	Pepito
short traverse on a ledge with an old blue arrow, to the left of the blue path, shortly past the sector Petite Dame Jeanne towards the sector Diane.
La Délation Générale 5+		slab	Pascal Etienne
diagonal slab to the left of O Reguinho, without the crack of that one, on the left of the face of orange n°18.
L'Oubliée 6c (6c+)		slab / crimps	Laurent Darlot
in the South face, underneath a characteristic overhang, 100m after La Petite Dame Jeanne, towards the sector Diane.
- 5+ (6a)		arete / slightly overhanging	-
low start of the right arete on the boulder of Master of Puppets, 20m underneath Le Grand Boulevard (former orange n°9 with an engraved inscription).
- 3		wall	-
former blue n°4 in between the sectors Petite Dame Jeanne and Diane.
ABC 7b (7b+)		slightly overhanging	C. Pas 7a
short problem to the left of Free of Charge, on the boulder with the graffiti "HEAD", to the opposite of left of orange n°19 and Le Danseur. Start with a pocket right hand and an undecling left hand and exit above.
La s'Avonnette 5+ (6a)		arete / sitstart	Stéphane Hérondelle
on the South face, at the bottom of the slope, 200m underneath the main sector. Sitstart to the left of a small pit with good holds and exit via the arete.
Le s'Avon 7a (6c)		wall / crimps / sitstart	Maxence Goualin
on the South face, at the bottom of the slope, 200m underneath the main sector. Sitstart in a small pit with good holds, take crimps and exit without the arete by convention.
La Danseuse 6a+		dyno	-
to the right of Le Danseur, on the boulder of Pluie Acide and orange n°19 bis. Start with two crimps and dyno to a boss, without using the right arete.
Tu Meke Mantle 6a		mantle / slopers	Ben Rohde
on the boulder to the right of Basta. Standing start with slopy holds, climb the wall and mantle up at the top.
Tu Meke Mantle assis 7a+ (7b)		mantle / slopers / sitstart	Kees Mak
on the boulder to the right of Basta. Start with an undercling left hand and a crimp right hand, and exit in Tu Meke Mantle.

© 1994-2013 bleau.info