Bleau.info : Rocher d'Avon Ouest : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

Sector Chenavard
1	Chenav'Art 6c	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "D"; sitstart with crimps, traverse to the right and exit in Le D Vert
1'	Chenav'Art prolongé 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "D"; sitstart with crimps, traverse to the right and exit in Le Fil du Rasoir de Sophie
2	Le D Bon Air 5+ (6a)	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "D". It is possible to exit directly (5c/6a) or by the right (6a).
2	Le D Bon Air debout 4+ (5-)	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "D". It is possible to exit directly (4c) or by the right (5a).
3	La D Si Belle 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of D Bon Air, on the boulder marked "D". Sitstart as for Chena Pan and exit directly.
3	La D si Belle debout 5+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the right of D Bon Air, on the boulder marked "D". Standing start as for Chena Pan debout and exit directly.
3b	Chena Pan debout 5 (5+)	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the right of D Bon Air, on the boulder marked "D". Standing start as for La D Si Belle debout and exit diagonally to the right.
4	Chena Pan! 6c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of D Bon Air, on the boulder marked "D". Sitstart as for La D Si Belle and exit diagonally to the right.
4	Le D Vert 5	wall	Gilles Cottray
without the small boulder, on the boulder marked "D", along the blue path.
5	Le Fil du Rasoir de Sophie 6b+	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall on the boulder marked "D".
6	Le D Maté 5 (5+)	pillar	Gilles Cottray
pillar on the boulder marked "D", along the blue path.
7	Le Morceau de Grat' 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder marked "D".
8	Palingénésie Bellifontaine 5+	wall / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the wall and continue by an oblique arete.
9	L'Adhérence de Scipion 6c	slab	Gilles Cottray
start from the small boulder.
10	La Tragédie du Bonnet 7a	traverse fltr / roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart under the roof, traverse to the right in the tunnel and exit by a large crack.
11	Le Baquet Fraternel 5	wall / pillar	Gilles Cottray
wall with a vague pillar.
12	Brutus Condamnant ses Pieds 6b	belly / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in a small belly and exit on slopers
13	Le Banc de Cécile 6b	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
along the blue parth, on the boulder marked "E". Start from the small boulder and exit without convention.
13b	Le Blanc de Ses Cils 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
along the blue parth, on the boulder marked "E". Start from the ground and exit without the left hold of Le Banc de Cécile.
14	Le Rocking-Chair de Poule 6c (7a)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart off the slightly overhanging prow on the right of the boulder of Le Blanc de Ses Cils.
15	Attira devant l'Homme 7a+	overhang / dyno / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
in a corridor, on the boulder to the right of Le Blanc de Ses Cils. Sitstart in the small overhang, dyno and exit by a mantle.
16	Le Bac de l'Histoire 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
exit to the left (4c otherwise).
17	Six Biches 6b	overhang	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "C"; low start from the ground.
18	Omaha Biche 7a	slightly overhanging / slopers	Gilles Cottray
at the end of the sector Chevanard, near the character "C". Start without the pedestal and exit on slopers, using a right foot hook.
Sector Vulcain
1	Rose de Sable 7b	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
direct start from the small boulder at the bottom in the South part of the sector.
1b	Rose de Sable (départ sauté) 6c	wall / arete / dyno	Gilles Cottray
in the South part of the sector; jump start from the small boulder on the left.
2	Peu Titan 5-	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
to the left of the blue path, at the end of thr sector Vulcain, towards the sector Louis VII.
3	La Bataille des Titans 6b	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
start to the right of the tree and exit by the arete.
3b	Hyper Ion 5	wall	Gilles Cottray
start to the left of the tree and exit by the arete as for La Bataille des Titans.
3t	Le Nez d'Horus 5	pillar	Pepito
pillar to the left of La Bataille des Titans.
4	Cronos Enchaîné 7a+	pillar / slopers	Gilles Cottray
great pillar to the right of La Bataille des Titans.
5	Noyés dans le Tartare 6b+	crack	Gilles Cottray
low start in the crack on the backside of La Bataille des Titans.
6	Satellite de sa Turne 6a	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of former yellow n°8. Start in the wall and exit via the arete on the left.
6'	Satellite de sa Turne droite 5+	wall	-
on the South face of former yellow n°8. Start in the wall and exit to the right.
7	Heurteloup de l'Atlas 7c	roof	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the right of the former yellow n°9, on the boulder marked "Q", without the left arete.
7'	Heurteloup de l'Atlas (avec crochet) 7b+	roof	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the right of the former n°9 jaune, on the boulder marked "Q", with a foot hook on the left arete.
8	Fils de la Terre 7a+	prow / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
direct prow on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R").
8b	Fils de la Terre (par la droite) 6b+	prow / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R"). Sitstart and climb the prow, using the right flake.
8b	Fils de la Terre debout 6a (6a+)	wall / prow	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R"). Standing start and climb the prow, using the right flake.
8t	Le Sourire de Vulcain 5-	slab / expo	Pepito
big slab to the left of the tree on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R"). Exit with the vertical holds or by the arete.
9	Les Poux de Vénus 6a	slab / expo	Gilles Cottray
big slab on the right of the tree on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R").
9b	L'Arbuste Opiniâtre 5-	slab / high	Pepito
to the right of Les Poux de Vénus. Start just right of the stump.
10	Vulcanale Historique 4+	slab / high	-
big slab to the right of former yellow n°10, on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R").
11	Arrivée d'R 6c	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the right of the path, on the boulder marked "R".
12	Le Forgeur de Caractère 6b (6c)	wall / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the right of the path, on the backside of the boulder marked "R", without the arete.
13	Neuf sur le Plat 5	pillar / wall	Gilles Cottray
to the left of former yellow n°9 bis, on the backside of the boulder marked "R".
14	Les Œufs de l'Olympe 6a+	slightly overhanging / dyno	Gilles Cottray
jump start and climb diagonally the face with the character "R" of the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain.
16	Ça Sent le Soufre 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
to the left of the spillway, on the boulder to the opposite of the one with the character "R".
17	L'Antre-Chat 6c+	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
to the opposite of the face with the character "R", along the blue path. Start with the hand on the right arete, traverse to the left and exit to the right of the spillway. NB : it is possible to begin at the white point on the step (start of Hypothétique Plat Net) with a foot hook.
17'	L'Antre-Chat direct 5-	wall	-
direct exit of L'Antre-Chat, to the opposite of the face with the character "R", along the blue path.
18	Hypothétique Plat Net 6c	wall / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
to the right of former yellow n°9 bis, along the blue path. Start from the step (white point) on the back boulder and exit in the slightly overhanging wall.
Sector Thébaïde
1	L'Ami Noir 7a	crack / chimney / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6. Sitstart in the corridor, climb the crack to the left and exit with the back boulder.
2	L'Arête de l'Ami Noir 4	arete / crack / mantle	-
arete to the right of L'Ami Noir, starting from the small boulder.
2n	- 5-	wall / crimps	-
black 2 | right problem on the marbled wall near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
3	Le Fort en Thèbes 6b+	belly / mantle / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
belly on a boulder to the left La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
3n	- 4+	pillar / slightly overhanging	-
black 3 | overhanging pillar near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
4	Les Dix Plats d'Égypte 4-	slab	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the East face of a boulder to the left La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
4n	- 4	pillar	-
black 4 | to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
5	Le Thébain de Soleil 5-	slab	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the East face of a boulder to the left La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
6	Thébain debout 4-	crack	Pascal Etienne
crack to the right of Le Thébain de Soleil.
7	Le Crocodile 5	arete / slightly overhanging / slopers	Gilles Cottray
round overhanging arete above La Route de Poitiers.
8	L'Arête de Nil Obstat 2	arete	-
arete to the left of the slab of Nil Obstat.
9	Nil Obstat 6a	slab	Gilles Cottray
on the other side of La Route de Poitiers from the blue path. 5b by the left.
10	Nil Obstat droite 4	slab	-
right problem on the slab of Nil Obstat.
11	Nécropole Position 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart with the small boulder on the other side of La Route de Poitiers from the blue path.
12	- 2+	arete	Pascal Etienne
right problem on a boulder 10m to the opposite of Le Sandwich.
13	PGHM 5-	wall / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
central problem on a boulder 10m to the opposite of Le Sandwich. Sitstart and exit diagonally to the left (standing start is 4b).
14	- 2+	crack / slab	Pascal Etienne
left problem on a boulder 10m to the opposite of Le Sandwich. Start with a crack and exit by the slab.
15	Le Pilier de Karnak 3	pillar	-
to the left of Karnak. Start by the crack or the pillar.
16	Karnak 4+	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the marbled wall near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
17	Louxor 5+ (6a)	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
central problem on the marbled wall near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
18	Le Sandwich 6a	wall / crimps / expo	-
wall with fragile holds near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6. Start at the black arrow and exit to the left at the top to avoid the tree.
18b	Le Toast 7a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
wall with fragile holds near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6. Direct version of Le Sandwich, to the left of the black arrow.
19	L'Avalée des Rois 6b+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6. Start from the right pillar and exit to the left.
19b	La Fève 6c+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6. Start from the right pillar and exit directly.
19c	L'Avalée des Rois direct 5 (5+)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart of the pillar of the exit of L'Avalée des Rois with the flake (morpho).
20	La Dalle Funéraire 6a	slab	Gilles Cottray
right slab on a boulder near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
21	Le Lisse dans la Vallée 6c	slab	Gilles Cottray
left slab on a boulder near the top of the hill, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
22	Délices dans la Forêt 4+	dihedral	-
dihedral to the left of Le Lisse dans la Vallée.
22	Épanchement 4+	dihedral / pillar	Pascal Etienne
to the left of Le Lisse dans la Vallée. Start in the dihedral as for Délices de la Forêt but exit by the left pillar.
23	La Nue Bis 6a	slab	Gilles Cottray
to the right of former black n°4, to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
24	Le Sphinx Ter 6c	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the east face of a boulder to the left of La Route de Poitiers, coming from the N6.
25	Mekka 7a+ (7a)	dyno	Jan De Smit / Steven Demets
right dyno on the boulder to the opposite of Le Compte des Mille et Une Voies.
25b	Mekkera 7a (6c+)	dyno / sitstart	Jan De Smit / Steven Demets
on the boulder to the opposite of Le Compte des Mille et Une Voies. Sittart to the right and exit by a dyno, with the arete right hand.
26	Open Air 7b (7c)	dyno	Neil Hart
left dyno on the boulder to the opposite of Le Compte des Mille et Une Voies.
27	L'Art Cénobite 6c+	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the face of Pharamineux, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
28	Le Compte des Mille et Une Voies 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the left of Pharamineux, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Sitstart as for L'Art Cénobite but traverse 1m50 to the right and exit in the belly.
29	Pharamineux 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
slightly overhanging wall, starting from the slab, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
30	L'Hypogée 6a	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of Pharamineux, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
32	Le Temple d'Amon 6b	arete / slopers / mantle	Gilles Cottray
on the backside of the boulder of Pharamineux, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Start at the right arete, traverse slightly to the left and exit by a mantle on the slab with a good crimp.
32b	Pulsion Récréative 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	Pepito
on the backside of the boulder of Pharamineux, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Climb the left arete and exit by a mantle at the top.
33	L'An Beau Meurt 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
right problem to the opposite of the traverse of Pulsion Récréative, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
34	Supplément d'Ahmès 7a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
central problem to the opposite of the traverse of Pulsion Récréative, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
35	La Bande de la Momie 6c	pillar	Gilles Cottray
left problem to the opposite of the traverse of Pulsion Récréative, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
36	Le Raz Joue 6c	belly / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
direct belly on the boulder to the left of Pharamineux, on the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann.
37	Raz direct 6c+ (6c)	mantle / sitstart	Bart van Raaij
on the boulder to the left of Pharamineux, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Sitstart in the center of the belly and exit directly.
38	Raz el Hanout 7a+ (7a)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder to the left of Pharamineux, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Sitstart in the center of the belly as for Raz direct or (easier but more logical) on the right of that one, traverse to the left and exit after the angle.
38b	Raz Jouissance 6c+	belly / traverse frtl / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder to the left of Pharamineux, to the left of the blue path, towards the sector Obermann. Sitstart to the right of the belly as for Le Rat Joue or (a little harder) in the center of that one, traverse to the left and exit before the angle.
39	La Dix-Huitième Dynastie 7b	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a boulder 15m to the left of the blue path towards the sector Obermann. Sitstart, climb the flake and exit with crimps.
39	La Dix-Huitième Dynastie debout 6c+	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on a boulder to the left of the blue path towards the sector Obermann. Standing start and exit with crimps.
40	La Vieille Noire 5-	pillar / slightly overhanging	-
black arrow on a boulder to the left of the blue path towards the sector Obermann.
41	L'Hypo-Style 6a+	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a small belly on a boulder to the left of the blue path towards the sector Obermann.
41	L'Hypo-Style debout 5	belly	Gilles Cottray
standing start of a small belly on a boulder to the left of the blue path towards the sector Obermann.
42	Nouvel Empire 7a	pillar / slopers / expo	Gilles Cottray
to the right of the asterisk ∗, along the blue path.
44	Panhard Roc 7a	overhang / prow / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
just above La Route de Poitiers, at the character "P" along the blue path. Start in the overhang without the boulder on th right and exit by the prow.
Sector Louis VII
1	La Peau G 4+	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the top of the hill, just left of the character "G".
2	L'HA Beau Minable 6a+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of the boulder with the engraving "HA", near the character "G", at the top of the hill.
2b	L'HA Bac 4+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of the boulder with the engraving "HA", near the character "G", at the top of the hill.
3	Les Cure-Œil 5-	wall	Gilles Cottray
right problem (start from the ground).
4	Les Cures d'Ans 4+	wall	Gilles Cottray
left problem (start from the ground).
5	Kata Pulpe debout 5	arete / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
5	Kata-Pulpe 6b	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
5b	La Deuxième Croisade 7a+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Sitstart as for Kata-Pulpe, traverse with top holds and exit in L'Oppo des Barbes Rousses.
6	L'Oppo des Barbes Rousses 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Sitstart, and climb the slightly overhanging face with the flake.
7	L'Émile Hisse 6b+	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a deep overhang (standing start is 6a).
7	L'Émile Hisse debout 6a	overhang	Gilles Cottray
standing start of a deep overhang.
8	L'Appui des Mi-Lisses 5+ (6a)	pillar / belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
exit to the right or to the left.
9	Pas s'y Fier 6c	traverse frtl / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
9b	L'Homme aux Gènes 6b+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
10	L'Ouie 7 7a (6c+)	wall / underclings / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of L'Ode au Rat, on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Sitstart with an undercling and exit with the holds on the right (6c) or without (7a).
11	L'Ode au Rat 6a+	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Sitstart and climb the wall diagonally to the left.
11	L'Ode au Rat debout 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of a boulder underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Standing start and climb the wall diagonally to the left.
12	L'Étienne Berce 5-	pillar	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the North face of the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
13	Le Pan du Jour 4+	belly	Gilles Cottray
belly on the North face of the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
14	L'Isabelle Étoile 5+	arete / dyno	Gilles Cottray
jump start (without the pedestal) on the West face of the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
15	L'Hétéro Serre 6a+	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
wall with the arete right hand on the West face of the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
15b	L'Héros Pâle aux Serres 7a	traverse frtl / wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil. Sitstart, traverse to the left with a horizontal crack and exit after the arete in L'Hétéro Serre.
16	Le Sphinx-Ter 4+	wall	Gilles Cottray
on the South face of the boulder with the asterisk ∗, underneath La Route de l'Écureuil.
17	L'Apollon Court 5	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart on the boulder to the South-West of the one with the asterisk ∗.
17	L'Apollon Court debout 4	wall	Gilles Cottray
standing start on the boulder to the South-West of the one with the asterisk ∗.
18	Bombe X 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the left of Rêve de Lépidoptère, Louis VII. Sitstart and climb the overhang with or without a hook right foot. NB : several games are possible on this boulder, the difficulty depending on the conventions used.
19	Rêve de Lépidoptère 6c	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of Bombe X, completely to the West of the sector Louis VII. Sitstart to the right and climb the overhanging arete (several variants are possible).
20	Flanc B 6b	wall	Gilles Cottray
marbled wall to the opposite of Rêve de Lépidoptère, completely to the West of the Sector Louis VII.
Sector 3 Parques
1	Le Rat Joue 5-	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder above the one marked "M". Sitstart in the overhang and exit in former black n°5.
2	Le Rat Pèle 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the overhang to the left of Le Rat Joue, on the boulder above the one marked "M".
3	Les Sourds y Dansent 5+	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder above the one marked "M".
4	Le Rat Musclé 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder above the one marked "M". Sitstart in the overhang and exit in former black n°5 bis.
5	Le Rat Masse 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sur le bloc au dessus de celui avec la lettrine "M".
6	Pirate d'Euler 5+	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart on the left, traverse as for former black n°6 and exit on the lip of the roof.
7	Retour de Bas-Ton 7a	roof / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
start on the right, traverse under the roof and exit in former black n°6 bis or directly.
8	La Préretraite 5+	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the overhang and exit in former black n°7.
9	Pasteur Hissé 5+	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the opposite of the boulder marked "N". Sitstart, go diagonally and exit in former black n°8 bis.
10	Pasteur Niaque 5	wall	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the opposite of the boulder marked "N", on the left of former black n°8 bis.
11	Haut Doigt et à l'Œil 5+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the opposite of the boulder marked "N".
12	La Rage du Retraité 6a+	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the opposite of the boulder marked "N", on the left of former black n°8.
13	Fun Parque 6b (6c)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of an overhanging prow above the character "O".
14	Decima 6a+	wall / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
above the character "O", along the blue path.
15	Le Départ qu'Adhère 6c (7a)	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
above the character "O", along the blue path. Low sitstart and exit in the overhanging pillar with out using the holds of former black n°11.
16	La Parque à Traction 6b	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
above the character "O", along the blue path. Low sitstart and exit in former black n°11.
17	Le Retour de l'Arsène 6b	roof / crack / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path. Sitstart in the roof and exit to the left with a crack.
18	Hic 6c+	roof / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path. Sitstart in the roof and exit directly with crimps.
19	Hale 6a	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path. Sitstart in the roof, traverse to the right and exit in former black n°12.
20	La Voûte Étoilée 7a	traverse frtl / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path. Sitstart with a pocket in the right face, traverse on the ledge and exit after the roof.
21	Les Pâtés de la Galerie 7a+	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
underneath the boulder with the asterisk ∗. Sitstart completely left with a pocket (white point), traverse under the roof by the crack and exit to the left of the overhang.
22	Ravi au Lit 7b+	belly / slopers	Frédéric Buc
underneath the boulder with the asterisk ∗.
22	Ravi au Lit assis 7c	belly / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart of the belly underneath the boulder with the asterisk ∗.
Sector Obermann
1	Mélusine à Gaz assis 6b+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
standing start of a pillar just after the boulder marked "K" and exit to the left.
1"	Mélusine à Gaz droite 4	pillar / slab	-
start in a pillar just after the boulder marked "K" and exit to the right in the slab. Sitstart is 5a.
1'	Mélusine à Gaz 6a+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a pillar just after the boulder marked "K" and exit to the left.
2	Gégé Zippe? 5-	wall	Gilles Cottray
small wall along the blue path, just after the boulder marked "K" (3c by the left).
3	La Dalle des Rêveries 6b	slab	Gilles Cottray
left slab on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the character "K".
4	Rêve de Fer 5-	slab / pillar / high	-
central problem on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the character "K".
5	Marche ou Rêve! 6a+	slab / high	Gilles Cottray
low start of the right on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the character "K".
6	L'Aube Rouge 6c	pillar	Gilles Cottray
low start of the right pillar of the boulder on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the character "K".
7	L'Ami aux OTIS 6c	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
low start to the right of the slighly overhanging face above the boulder with a tunnel along the blue path.
7b	Le Chantre Mou 4+	crack / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
in the center of the slighly overhanging face above the boulder with a tunnel along the blue path.
8	La Position du Séminaire assis 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of the left problem in the slighly overhanging face above the boulder with a tunnel along the blue path.
8	La Position du Séminaire debout 6a (6b)	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
standing start of the left problem in the slighly overhanging face above the boulder with a tunnel along the blue path.
9	Insomnie 7a	pillar	Gilles Cottray
start from the ground and climb the pillar by the left.
9b	Réveil Difficile 6b	traverse fltr / pillar	Gilles Cottray
start in Insomnie, traverse to the right and exit to the right of the pillar.
10	Le Coche-Mare 7b	pillar	Gilles Cottray
vague pillar starting from the small boulder above the blue path.
11	Le Saut du Lit 6c+ (7a)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
above the blue path. Sitstart, dyno to the overhanging arete from the flake and exit by that one.
12	Le Lever Déride Haut 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
start from the small boulder on the left.
13	Lève-toi et Grimpe! 6c	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of an overhanging pillar above the blue path. Standing start is 5b.
14	Les Tirements 7a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a slightly overhanging wall above the blue path.
14	Les Tirements debout 5-	wall	-
standing start of a slightly overhanging wall above the blue path.
15	Le Belvédère des Der 5+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
pillar by the right above the blue path.
16	Les Dessous de Graziella 6a	pillar / slab	Gilles Cottray
pillar-slab by the left above the blue path.
17	Le Toit des Méditations 6c	roof	Gilles Cottray
start from the left pillar.
18	Martine est Là? 6a	wall / pockets	Gilles Cottray
above the boulder with a tunnel along the blue path.
19	L'Arête d'Obermann 6a+	arete / high	Gilles Cottray
arete on the boulder with the medal of Obermann, without that one.
20	L'Étoile Fit l'Ante 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the face with the asterisk ∗, on the boulder with the medal of Obermann, along the blue path.
21	Le Challenge du Manoir 6a	slab	Gilles Cottray
on a boulder underneath the blue path.
22	Souterrain Miné 7b	slightly overhanging / underclings	Gilles Cottray
low start on a boulder underneath the blue path.
23	La Rimaye à Partir 6b	wall	Gilles Cottray
on a boulder underneath the blue path.
24	Le Cas-Niche 6c (6c+)	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart (on a crash-pad) in an overhang underneath the blue path.
Sector Solitaire
1	L'Amont Scellement 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the North-East of the sector, to the left of Sauce Mayennaise. Sitstart and exit by the arete.
1b	L'Aval Hier 5	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the North-East of the sector, to the left of Sauce Mayennaise. Sitstart and exit by a mantle.
2	Sauce Mayennaise 7a+	slightly overhanging / slopers / expo	Gilles Cottray
slightly overhanging wall on the North-East of the sector. Standing start, take a sloper right hand and exit via the oblique arete.
2'	Sauce Mayennaise assis 7b	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
slightly overhanging wall on the North-East of the sector. Sitstart, take a sloper right hand as for Sauce Mayennaise and exit via the oblique arete.
3	L'Abdo-Maine 6c+	slab / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the North-East of the sector, to the right of Sauce Mayennaise. Sitstart and exit by the slab.
3	L'Abdo-Maine debout 6a+	slab	-
on the North-East of the sector, to the right of Sauce Mayennaise.
4	Ma Hyène 6a (6b)	arete / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
oblique arete on the right face of Sauce Mayennaise.
5	Sibylle de Clown 6a	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart on the boulder to the East of L'Angle Sibyllin.
5	Sibylle de Clown debout 5-	wall	-
on the boulder to the East of L'Angle Sibyllin.
6	Les Pointillés 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
diagonal to the right on the second boulder to the East of L'Angle Sibyllin.
7	La Tranche Sursitaire 4-	wall	Gilles Cottray
marbled wall (with or without the arete) on the second boulder to the East of L'Angle Sibyllin.
8	Le Bon Bond 6a+	wall / dyno	Gilles Cottray
dynamic problem to the left of the round pillar, on the boulder marked "I".
9	L'I Nommé 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
to the right of the round pillar, on the boulder marked "I".
10	L'Haut Racle 4-	slab	Gilles Cottray
slab with the arete right hand on the left face of L'Angle Sibyllin.
11	L'Angle Sibyllin 7a	belly / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the belly as for Le Cil de Sibylle but exit with the left arete.
11	L'Angle Sibyllin debout 6a	arete / arete	Gilles Cottray
standing start of L'Angle Sibyllin with the crack right hand and exit by the left arete.
12	Le Cil de Sibylle 7a	belly / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the belly as for L'Angle Sibyllin but exit with the right arete.
13	L'Heureux Coin 5+	slab / crimps	Gilles Cottray
crimpsy slab on the boulder to the South of L'Angle Sibyllin.
14	Grande Solitude 7a	wall / mantle	Gilles Cottray
to the right of Fil-Entropie. Standing start and exit by the gully or by the slab on the right.
14'	Grande Solitude assis 7a+	wall / mantle / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
to the right of Fil-Entropie. Sitstart, climb the wall and exit by the gully or by the slab on the right.
15	Fil-Entropie 7b+	arete / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
on the left of Grande Solitude. Start to the right, pass on the left face and exit via the overhanging arete.
15'	Fil-Entropie assis 7c	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the left of Grande Solitude. Sitstart to the right, pass on the left face and exit via the overhanging arete.
16	La Perle sans Fil 6b+	slightly overhanging / slab	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, to the right of Fil-Harmonie, on the boulder of Grande Solitude. Start in the overhang and exit by the slab, without the arete.
17	Fil-Harmonie 6c	arete / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
arete along the blue path, to the left of La Perle sans Fil, on the boulder of Grande Solitude.
18	Des Forêts Station 6b+	traverse frtl / slopers	Gilles Cottray
traverse on slopers on the boulder to the opposite of the one marked "J".
19	L'Arrêt-Station 6b	wall / crimps / arete	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, on the boulder to the opposite of the one marked "J". Start in the crimpsy wall and exit by the right arete.
20	Station Spatiale 6a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, on the boulder to the opposite of the one marked "J".
21	Apollo J 4+	slab / arete	Gilles Cottray
slab with the arete left hand along the blue path, on the boulder marked "J".
22	Le J Rond 6a	pillar / slopers	Gilles Cottray
round pillar along the blue path, on the boulder marked "J".
23	Le J Bon 5+	slightly overhanging / mantle	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, on the boulder marked "J".
24	Le Solitaire Atterre 7a	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "J". Sitstart, climb the pillar and traverse to the left.
24	Le Solitaire Atterre debout 6b+	pillar / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "J". Standing start, climb the pillar and traverse to the left.
25	Le Flip du Solitaire 7b	pillar / slightly overhanging / crack	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "J". Standing start, climb the slightly overhanging wall using the crack and exit by the round pillar.
25'	Le Flip du Solitaire assis 7b+	pillar / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "J". Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging wall by using the crack and exit by the round pillar.
26	Solitaire Minus 6a	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
belly to the left of Le Flip du Solitaire, on the boulder marked "J".
		Outside the topo
La Dalle sans le Dièdre 3		slab	-
to the right of the downclimbing arrow of yellow n°3, without the left side of the dihedral.
- 4		slab / arete	-
just right of La Dalle sans le Dièdre, to the right of the downclimbing arrow of yellow n°3.
Das Boot 6b+ (6c)		traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
just before the boulder with the letter "I", to the left of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Sitstart to the right, traverse on slopers and exit at the highest point.
U96 6b+		traverse fltr / mantle / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
just before the boulder with the letter "I", to the left of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Sitstart on the left with a heelhook and exit at the highest point.
U96 retour 6c		traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	François Louvel
just before the boulder with the letter "I", to the left of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Make the back traverse of U96 and exit 2m before the start of that one.
Tête à Tête 6a+ (6b)		pillar / overhang / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
15m behind and slightly to the left of U96, on the left of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Sitstart under the pillar and exit on slopers.
L'Arête de Cyrano 6a+ (6b)		arete / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
on the same boulder and to the right of Sibylle de Clown, to the right of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Sitstart with the sidepull, exit on the right arete. Standing start 6a+.
Mantle Coach 7a		mantle / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
on the same boulder and to the right of Sibylle de Clown, to the right of the blue path coming from La Route Percée. Sitstart with the sidepull of L'Arête de Cyrano and exit to the left in the middle of the wall with a mantle. Standing start is 6b+/6c.
Catch me If You Can 7b (7b+)		overhang / dyno / sitstart	Neil Hart
big dyno on the boulder of Das Boot. Sitstart in the pit at the center of the boulder, dyno directly to the top and exit via a mantle (or finish in the traverse of Das Boot).
La Traversée de l'Astérisque 3-		traverse fltr	-
traverse with top holds on the boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path.
- 3+		wall	-
to the left of Les Pointillés, on the second boulder to the East of L'Angle Sibyllin.
Kraft Werk 4+		slab / high	Pascal Etienne
to the right of Vulcanale Historique, on the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain (marked "R").
Héphaïstos 6a		crack / slab	Pepito
in the sector Vulcain, to the right of the character "R"). Star by the crack and exit via the slab. Sitstart is 6a+.
Le Même Panier 6a		slightly overhanging / crimps / dyno	Pascal Etienne
dyno 1m to the right of Les Œufs de l'Olympe on the face with the character "R" of the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain.
Graffiti 6b		traverse frtl / high	Pascal Etienne
on the face with the character "R" of the boulder of L'Antre de Vulcain. Start from the boulder on the right, traverse with top holds and exit in Les Œufs de l'Olympe (6a by exiting just before).
- 4		wall	-
in the Thébaïde sector, between La Vieille Noire and Hypo-Style. Exit by the left crack is 5b.
L'Arête gauche 4+		arete	Sébastien Papillon
on the left face of the boulder of yellow n°1 (sector Chenavard).
Le Triangle des Bermudes 5+		pillar / slopers / expo	Pascal Etienne / Pepito
round arete on the boulder near the top of the hill, in the Thébaïde sector.
- 3+		crack	Pascal Etienne
left problem on a boulder above La Route de Poitiers, at the beginning of the sector Thébaïde. Sitstart is 5b.
- 5+		wall / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
right problem on a boulder above La Route de Poitiers, at the beginning of the sector Thébaïde. Sitstart to the right and exit in the 3c crack.

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