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Beauvais Nainville : black and white ED+ (n°15)

GPS parking lot

GPS start of the circuit

Circuit description
Caution (August 2012) : this circuit is being repainted and the numbering below has not been updated!


Le Mouton Noir 6careteJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 3 photos ] round arete.

Sang d'Encre 6aslabJean-Yves Derouck
*****

La Mignonne 6b (6c)traverse fltrDominique Yvorel
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a boulder behind the start of the black/white circuit. Start with the crack and exit via the wall. 6c by starting with a good sloper and a low foot, low traverse to the right up to a good right hand hold, pass the angle and exit via a small slab.

Tract'aux Plats 6boverhang / slopersDominique Yvorel
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] small overhang to the right of Le Gynécologue, behind the start of the white/black circuit.

L'Éloge de la Différence 7atraverse fltrJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] near blue n°44, to the right of the path, underneath the main sector.

Jambes en l'Air 6ctraverse frtl / slopers / crimps


Bagdad Café 6bslightly overhanging / crack
***** anciennement 6a (prise de départ évolutive).

Les 50 Balais 6b+traverse fltrPatrick Juhel
*****  [ 5 photos ] to the right of red n°3 (white arrow).

Mathilde 7a+traverse frtlE. Guyot
***** underneath blue n°1. Start completely right, traverse under the roof and exit to the left on slopers.

9 bis Je Broie du Noir 7broof / traverseSébastien Frigault / E. Guyot
*****  [ 3 photos ] underneath blue n°1. Start completely right, traverse under the roof and exit in the middle of the overhang.

9 ter Le Sectaire 7broof
***** underneath blue n°1 Start completely right, traverse under the roof and exit to the right of Je Broie du Noir.

10  La Dame Noire 6ctraverse fltrJean-Yves Derouck
*****

11  L'Onyx 6bwallJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 1 video ]

12  Le Plomb des Frelons 7a (6c+)overhang / sitstartJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] to the opposite of blue n°17, on the boulder to the left of L'Onyx and red n°28. Sitstart in the roof, take the good holds on the right, come back to the left and exit by a a mantle on slopers.
NB : the opening method traverses to the left (morpho).

See also: Le Plomb des Frelons direct 7a+ (7b)

12 bis Lao Dal 7aoverhang / mantle / expoThierry Caillaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 2 photos ] 1m to the right of the beginning of red n°27 (white arrow).

13  La Limonite 6b+wall
*****  [ 4 photos ]

14  L'Anthracite 7awall / slopersPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of L'Art Pariétal (red n°13).
See also: L'Anthracite assis 7a+

14 bis Le Brou de Noix 6bcrimps / mantleJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 1 photo ] static.

15  M&M's 6coverhang / mantlePatrick Juhel / E. Guyot
*****  [ 1 photo ] low start.

16  La Magie Noire du Derviche 7atraverse fltrP. Lebouc
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder facing red n°25.

17  Le Cliché N&B 6ctraverse frtlJean-Yves Derouck / Patrick Juhel
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]

17 bis La Gueule du Loup 7c (7b+)traverse frtl / overhangBrice Lefevre
prolongation of Le Cliché N&B (black/white n°14).

18  La Traversée du Bonsaï 6btraverse fltr
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] traverse to the right and exit without the tree!

19  Les Ongles en Deuil 6cwall / crimps / expoJean-Yves Derouck
*****

20  Le Petit Ramoneur 6bwall / crimps
*****

21  Woman Power 6c-
former red n°21 bis.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  J'ai Fantaisie 6a

22  L'Angle des Chaires Mobiles 6carete
***** direct angle with a white triangle between Trompe la Mort (red n°20) and Les Chaires Mobiles (red n°19).

22 bis Les Révoltés du Stonewall 7b+dynoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 2 photos ] 2m to the right of red n°18.

23  Les Abysses 6boverhang / traverse fltr / crackJean-Yves Derouck / E. Guyot
*****

24  L'Épée de Sable 7b (7b+)sitstart / overhang
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 7 photos ] on the backside of the boulder of orange n°77, with a low sitstart on the left.
See also:  [ 12 photos ]  La Directe de l'Épée de Sable 7c

24 bis La Directe de l'Épée de Sable 7coverhang / sitstartBrice Lefevre / François Louvel
*****  [ 12 photos ] direct version of L'Épée de Sable, on the backside of the boulder of orange n°77.
NB : a useless eight grade variant exists which is very eliminating.

See also:  [ 7 photos ]  L'Épée de Sable 7b (7b+)

25  Black-Out 7awall / traverse fltrChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 18 photos ] near blue n°38, underneath La Mouche.

25 bis Les Damnés des Spots Secrets 7ctraverse fltrThierry Caillaud
 [ 2 photos ] 100m underneath the classical sector, in the North slope (the boulder is visible from the path towards L'Epée de Sable. It is possible to start from the boulder on the left, but this variant is non-homogenous, due to a rest.

26  Le Frigo 6bcrimpsE. Guyot
***** to the left of L'Oubli (red n°10)

27  La Mouche 7awall / crimps / expoChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] to the right of red n°10, in a corridor.
See also: Sorbet Mouche 7a+, La Mouche directe 7b

28  Le Nègre en Chemise raccourci 6c (6c+)traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart
*****  [ 2 videos ] on the boulder of blue n°13. Sitstart completely left as for Le Nègre en Chemise, but exit directly on the prow on slopers.
See also:  [ 3 realvideos ]   [ 7 photos ]  Le Nègre en Chemise 7a+

28 bis Le Nègre en Chemise 7a+traverse fltr / slopers / sitstartFrédéric Advent
*****  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 7 photos ] sitstart left, cross blue n°13 and exit right in a wall.
NB : there is a shorter variant ending in the prow (6c/6c+).

See also: Le Nègre en Chemise raccourci 6c (6c+)

29  Le Grain de Beauté 6c+traverse fltrJérôme Ceccaldi / Pascal Ceccaldi
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ]

30  Coup de Blues 6c+ (6c)prowJean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 2 photos ]

30 bis L'Étrave à Sucre 7b+ (7b)prowThierry Caillaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] evident prow, on the boulder of Coup de Blues, to the left of the path, underneath the main sector.
See also: L'Étrave à Sucre assis 8a

922 quat Le Cambouis du Diéséliste 6ctraverse frtl
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] exit at the arete (prolongation to the left with a low traverse, is Le Diéseliste, 7a).

923 quat L'Amoco 6btraverse fltrPatrick Juhel
*****

924 quat L'Œuvre au Noir 7a (7a+)traverse frtlLaurent Avare
*****  [ 1 video ] on the right of the main sector, above the parking. Start to the right, traverse low and exit in a belly.
See also: L'Œuvre au Noir en aller-retour 7b+ (7b)

924 quat Le Dahlia Noir 7ctraverse fltrBrice Lefevre / E. Guyot
*****  [ 25 photos ] on the left of the main sector, above the parking lot.
NB : there and back is called "Return Ticket" (7c+).


925 quat La Veuve du Fossoyeur 6btraverse fltr / wallJean-Yves Derouck / Patrick Juhel
*****

926 quat Le Mâle Blanchi 6atraverse frtlJean-Yves Derouck / Patrick Juhel


927 quat Le Café Crème 6awall / expo
*****

928 quat Le Cappuccino 6bwallJean-Yves Derouck


929 quat Le Crawl en Mer Noire 6ctraverse frtl / wallPatrick Juhel / Jean-Yves Derouck
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] long traverse; the "crawl" move is optional.

930 quat Danse Macabre 7atraverse fltr / expoChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] start left, climb down the overhang and exit to the right of red n°36 (white arrow).
See also: Noir Désir 7a+

930 quat L'Ébène 6bwallJean-Yves Derouck
*****

930 quat La Perle de Jais 6cwallChristian Roumégoux
*****

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