Bleau.info : Les Béorlots : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the village of Achères, follow the signroads indicating the stadium, pass the service area of the motorway and park at the end of the road. Take La Route d'Achères for 700m (crossing la Route des Platières) and follow the TMF for 300 to 400m for the classical sector of "Le Labyrinthe" or the neighbor problems. Certain isolated boulder such as I comme Irun can be found on the left side of La Route d'Achères by following La Route des Platière or La Route du Furet.

1	Maison de Campagne 7b	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
completely to the East of the area, between La Route de la Bourse and La Route des Béorlots. Sitstart with left hand at the angle, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
2	Purée de Noisettes 7b+ (7b)	roof	Thierry Guéguen
low start of the roof just left of 74% de Cacao. Access : from the "Labyrinthe", follow the TMF (Route d'Achères, Route des Platières) and turn left at the crossroad; the boulder can be seen 20m to the left.
3	74% de Cacao 6c+ (7a)	roof / sitstart	Jocelyn-William Loubriat / Alexandre Jalama
right problem in an evident roof to the East of the main sector, along La Route de la Bourse. Access : from the "Labyrinthe", follow the TMF (Route d'Achères, Route des Platières) and turn left at the crossroad; the boulder can be seen 20m to the left.
4	Dérivation 6b	underclings / arete	Bernard Théret
to the opposite of L'Étrave directe. Start with a flake/crack, traverse slightly to the left above a small boulder and exit at the angle.
4b	Dérivation assis 7b	roof / underclings / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Ludovic Laurence
to the opposite of L'Étrave directe. Sitstart in the small overhang, take the flake/crack and exit by the angle as for Dérivation.
4c	Un Doigt dans le... 7a	underclings / slopers / mantle	Antoine Eydoux
to the opposite of L'Étrave directe. Start with a flake/crack as for Dérivation, take a mono right hand and exit directly by a mantle on slopers above the corridor.
5	L'Étrave directe 6a	prow	-
on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of Power-Lolotte. Low start and exit directly (sitstart on the left is 6b).
5b	L'Étrave Trouée 6a+	prow / mantle	Pepito
on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Low start as for L'Étrave directe and exit to the right via a mantle.
6	Leçon de Piano 6c	traverse frtl	Pepito
to the left of 74% de Cacao, past the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Standing start or sitstart, traverse to the left and exit at the arete.
6b	En Attendant Gégé 7a (6c+)	traverse frtl / pockets / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Gérald Coste
sitstart as for La Leçon de Piano, downclimb the prow, low traverse to the sitstart of L'Étrave Trouée and exit via the wall on the left.
7	Le Fond de l'Air 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the right face of the boulder of Power Lolotte, to the left of a big jug.
8	Power-Lolotte 6b (6b+)	overhang	Pepito
to the left of the TMF, 80m to the South of 74% de Cacao. Low start from the pedestal and climb the roof without that one.
8b	Déclic 7c	overhang / slopers	Sébastien Frigault
to the left of the TMF, 80m to the South of 74% de Cacao. Low start as for Power-Lolotte, climb the overhang without the pedestal and exit on slopers by the evident bowl on the right.
9	Épinéphrine 7a (7a+)	roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
right problem in an overhang 50m to the East of the labyrinth; low start.
10	Coup de Chaleur sur l'Antarctique 6b (6b+)	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
left problem in an overhang 50m to the South-East of the labyrinth.
11	Gold Rush 7c	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start completely right, traverse to the left and exit as for Fat Cat.
11b	Petit Pas 3+	wall / slab / pockets	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Easy direct problem on the right face of the boulder, at the start of Gold Rush.
12	Le Pendentif 6b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start in the left face with the two hands on a sloper and do the back traverse of Gold Rush.
13	L'Hésitation 6b (6c)	wall / dyno / expo	Pepito
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Dyno to a good sloper on the left face of the boulder of Gold Rush.
13b	Fat Cat 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Sitstart to the left and exit in the final overhang of Gold Rush.
14	Le Brise-Glace 6b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the right face in L'Échelle à Trous, low traverse at the angle and exit in the second face in Haut les Pieds.
14b	Le Brise-Glace retour 6c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the left face, low traverse at the angle and exit in L'Échelle à Trous.
14c	Le Brise-Glace en aller-retour 7a+ (7a)	traverse	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. There and back of Le Brise-Glace (starting either left or right : same difficulty).
15	L'Échelle à Trous 3+	wall / pockets	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
16	Radiation 4+ (5)	wall	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem to the right of Peu ou Proue, on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
17	Peu ou Proue 6a (6a+)	arete	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Prow in the middle of the traverse of Le Brise-Glace.
18	Haut les Pieds 5+	wall	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the left face of Le Brise-Glace.
19	Yalla 7c+	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
19	Yalla raccourci 6c+ (6c)	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the gully.
19b	Yalla en retour-aller 8a	traverse	Christian Roumégoux
there and back of Yalla, on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth.
19b	Yalla retour 7b+ (7c)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
19b	Yalla retour raccourci 7b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the gully.
20	Cavaporcis 6c (6b+)	overhang / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully and exit directly.
20	Cavaporcis droite 6c+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
20	Cavaporcis gauche 7c	traverse frtl / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
21	La Cacherie 4+ (5-)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the South-Western hill.
22	La Traversée de la Goulotte 6b+	traverse frtl	-
on the South-West hill, 15m to the West of the boulder of Yalla. Start completely right, pass the gully and the wall and exit after the angle in a small slab.
23	Mi-Tendeur 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Left problem, with a big jug.
24	Grincement 6a	wall	Bernard Théret
on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Right angle on a boulder with a big jug.
25	Entrée en Matière 5-	-	-
to the left of the sector of "Le Labyrinthe".
25b	Les Deux Fissures 6a	wall	-
direct eliminate to the right of Entrée en Matière.
26	Cross Roc 3+ (4-)	wall	-
on the left of the entrance of the labyrinth.
27	Mort Sur 7a	roof / crimps / sitstart	Bernard Théret
above the TMF, on a boulder to the left of the entrance of the labyrinth. Sitstart in a small pit, dyno to the ledge and exit on the right by a mantle, using crimps.
28	Platitude 5+	wall / slopers	Pepito
wall with slopers at the beginning of the main area.
29	Pomme d'Api 5	mantle / sitstart	Fabien Vannier / Loïc de Saint Etienne
left problem on the small boulder at the entrance of the sector, to the opposite and slightly left of the labyrinth. Sitstart and exit by a mantle on slopers.
29b	Pomme d'Adam 6a+	mantle / sitstart	Fabien Vannier / Loïc de Saint Etienne
right problem on the small boulder at the entrance of the sector, to the opposite and slightly left of the labyrinth. Sitstart and exit by a mantle on the top of the boulder.
29c	La Traversée des Pommes 6b+	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Fabien Vannier / Loïc de Saint Etienne
on the small boulder at the entrance of the sector, to the opposite and slightly left of the labyrinth. Sitstart in Pomme d'Adam, traverse to the left and exit in Pomme d'Api.
30	Risque d'Avalanche 7b	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
to the left of L'Arête Interdite, on the first boulder before the corridor. Start with slopers and exit to the right, near the end of the arete. Sitstart is 7b+/7c.
30b	Risque d'Avalanche assis 7c (7b+)	wall / slopers / sitstart	Bernard Théret
to the left of L'Arête Interdite, on the first boulder before the corridor. Sitstart and exit with slopers to the right, near the end of the arete.
31	L'Arête à Michton 6a+	arete	Michel Grillère
left arete at the entrance of the "Labyrinthe".
31b	L'Arête Interdite 7a+ (7a)	wall / crack	Jacky Godoffe
on the first boulder before the corridor. Without the arete by convention.
32	La Bricole 4+	slab	-
on the left of the boulder in front of the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
33	La Jumbo 5+	wall / slab	-
to the opposite of La Prem's, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
34	La Prem's 5	wall / slopers	-
to the right of Salathé, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
35	Salathé 7a	sitstart / crack	Pepito
dülfer-style crack at the entrance of the labyrinth (standing start is 6c+).
36	La Fissure des Bovins 6a	slightly overhanging / crack	-
athletic crack right hand, just left of Salathé at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
37	État d'Ivresse 5	arete / slab	-
right side of L'Arête à Michton, on the left at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
38	La Roue de la Fortune 7b+ (7c)	slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
facing In Extremis, 1m50 to the left of No Man's Land.
39	No Man's Land 7a+ (7a)	slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
long slab (friction) in a corridor, to the opposite of In Extremis.
40	L'Excuse 7a+	wall / expo	Stéphan Denys
to the opposite of No Man's Land, to the right of In Extremis.
40b	In Extremis 7b+	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
in the corridor, to the opposite of No Man's Land.
41	Le Petit Toit 6a	roof / sitstart	-
sitstart of the small roof just right of No Man's Land.
42	Le Maître des Lieux 7a+ (7a)	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
at the end of the corridor between No Man's Land and In Extremis. Start left and exit via an undercling and slopers.
45	La Maîtresse 6b	wall / expo	-
diagonal to the left, on the wall to the right of Le Maître des Lieux.
46	La Charlotte 4-	wall	-
to the right, on the boulder of Le Maître des Lieux, past the angle.
46b	- 4+	slab	-
to the left of La Charlotte, on the boulder of Le Maître des Lieux.
47	- 4+	slab	-
to the right of La Charlotte, on the boulder of Le Maître des Lieux.
48	Le Samaritain 5+ (6a)	wall / crack	-
left problem facing La Charlotte.
49	Rébellion 6b	wall	-
right problem facing La Charlotte.
50	Le Plouc 5	wall	-
direct wall at the beginning of L'Oblique.
50b	L'Oblique 6c	wall	-
diagonal to the left at the beginning of Le Plouc.
51	Le Coupe-Ongles 6b	wall / crimps	-
in the center of the labyrinth, between Le Rasoir and L'Oblique.
52	Le Rasoir 6b	-	-
in the center of the labyrinth, to the opposite of La Bonne Affaire.
53	La Mine de Rien 5	crack	-
at the end (and on the left) of "Le Labyrinthe".
54	Les Grattons Inutiles 6c	slab	Pepito
eliminate to the left of La Bonne Affaire, without the big crimps on the right.
54b	La Bonne Affaire 4-	slab	-
non eliminating slab.
55	- 5	arete	-
angle on the boulder just left of the slab with La Bonne Affaire and Les Grattons Inutiles.
56	Rapido 5-	slab / crack	-
at the end (and on the right) of "Le Labyrinthe".
57	Dunk! 7b	slightly overhanging / dyno	Jan Gorrebeeck
right problem on the wall to the left of Épinéphrine. Start to the left of a thin crack (which is not allowed), dyno and exit over the belly.
58	Kuchenmeister 6c+ (6c)	crack	Bram Van Geert / Jan De Smit
characteristic crack to the left of Dunk!, on the wall to the left of Épinéphrine.
59	Stretch 6c+	roof / underclings / sitstart	Ivan Moreels
to the right of Demi-Tour, on the wall to the left of Épinéphrine. Sitstart in the little cave and exit with the big tétines (morpho).
60	Demi-Tour 6c (6c+)	roof / slopers / sitstart	Ivan Moreels / Jan De Smit
left problem on the wall to the left of Épinéphrine. Sitstart with the obvious holds, without the left boulder for the feet and exit via a mantle before the good holds of Stretch (morpho).
61	Le Great Eastern 7c	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
16m long traverse on the ridge of the platière, 50m to the North of the labyrinth.
		Outside the topo
I comme Irun 7c (7b+)		prow / slopers / mantle	Thierry Plaud
5m high slightly overhanging prow with a small roof at the exit in the Western part of the sector. NB : the boulder has been opened by a 7c+ method. Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 et 645; the boulder is on the left, past Mickey Mousse.
Katioushka gauche 7a+ (7a)		prow / slightly overhanging / traverse frtl	Thierry Plaud
in an overhanging prow, at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart as for Katioushka, to the left of a big rock and exit to the left via a traverse.
Katioushka 7b+		prow / overhang / sitstart	Thierry Plaud
overhanging prow at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart completely low, to the left of a big rock. The shortened variant exiting to the left is 7a/7a+.
La Totale de Katioushka 7c (7c+)		sitstart / overhang / prow	Christian Roumégoux
sitstart completely low, go up and then down to the start of Katioushka, and exit in this problem.
Le Plaisir de la Forme (et inversement) 6a		arete	Christian Roumégoux
follow the path past Katioushka up to an intersection, and then up to the left. The problem is a very special 3/4 meters long "lizard tail" close to the ground. Evident start on the left, go up and exit on horse back on the boulder.
Jeu de Pierre 7a+		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
left exit of Egérie sans Vergogne, in the Western part of the area.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Égérie sans Vergogne 7b (7b+)		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
in the Western part of the area, along "La Route des Platières". Sitstart and exit directly.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Double Face 8a+		roof	Jacky Godoffe
very original roof 50m to the North of Le Chemin du Furet, 100m to the East of the crossing towards I comme Irun. Start completely low on the right and climb the overhang with heel hooks (15-18 moves; morpho).
Don't Take the Bonsaï 6c		arete / sitstart	Gérald Coste
left arete on the big boulder of Mickey Mousse and Little People. Please do not touch at the small tree at the top of the boulder! Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Don't Take the Bonsaï rallongé 6c+ (7a)		traverse frtl / arete	Thierry Guéguen
on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Standing start at Mickey Mousse, traverse to the left using a pocket and exit via the arete of Don't Take the Bonsaï. Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse 7b		slopers / sitstart	Romain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
central arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart to the left (without crash-pad) with a bidoigt right hand and a vertical hold left hand, and exit via the arete. Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse rallongé 7b+		traverse fltr / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart as for Don't Take the Bonsaï, traverse to the right using a pocket and exit via the arete of Mickey Mousse. Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Little People 7a+		slopers / sitstart	Romain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
right arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Mickey Mousse. Sitstart to the left and exit via the arete. Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
The Others 7c (7c+)		wall / slopers	Tony Fouchereau / Kevin Lopata
standing start just left of Mickey Mousse with the sloper right hand and exit directly with a hold on the left (morpho).
The Others assis 7c+ (7c)		wall / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart to the left (without crash-pad) with a bidoigt right hand and a vertical hold left hand, climb the wall just left of Mickey Mousse with the sloper right hand and exit directly with a hold on the left (morpho).
Jour de Pluie 7a+ (7b)		slopers / underclings	Maxime Prodhomme / Jean Delbecq
start 1m to the left of Little People with underclings and dyno from a sloper to a round crack (morpho). Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Plats de Gloire 7a		wall / slopers / mantle	Manuel Marquès
static start just left of Swing Low. Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Swing Low 6c		slightly overhanging / arete	Manuel Marquès
standing start with a tridoigt left hand and exit via the arete.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Swing Low rallongé 7a (7a+)		slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart completely right as for La Complainte du Dos, traverse to the left in the overhang and exit in Swing Low.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Relevé de Compte 6a		wall	Manuel Marquès
standing start to the right of Swing Low, with the two hands on the horizontal crack.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Le Poinçonneur 6a		slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
to the left of Misty, on the boulder of Swing Low. Sitstart on the low ledge and exit directly with pockets.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Misty 7a+		slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder of Swing Low. Sitstart on the ledge and exit using three small horizontal crimps in the overhang.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Misty rallongé 7b		slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder of Swing Low. Sitstart completly right and exit in the overhang of Misty.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Sus Oros se Cerraron 6c		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart to the right of the boulder of de Swing Low and exit slightly to the left.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Complainte du Dos 7a (7a+)		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart to the right of the boulder of de Swing Low and exit by the right arete.Access : the boulder, oriented to the North and long-drying, is located on the plateau, 200m above Little People and Mickey Mousse.
Esperalou 6c		wall	David Evrard
right problem on the boulder to the opposite of Don't Take the Bonsaï. Standing start with a pinch right hand and a sloper left hand and exit above.
Oppossum 6c		wall / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
left problem on the boulder to the opposite of Don't Take the Bonsaï. Sitstart to the left, climb a ledge to the roght and exit on slopers.
Dora 5 (5-)		wall	Alain Suidi / Pascal Morel
on a small evident wall above and to the left of Don't Take the Bonsaï. Start under the "eye" of the wall and exit with the right arete (5b/5c without).
Alternative 7a+		roof / mantle / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
to the right of Double Face, in a roof 50m to the North of Le Chemin du Furet, 100m to the East of the crossing towards I comme Irun. Sitstart on the left under the roof, traverse to the right without using the wall on the back and exit by a mantle above a sharp stone.

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