Bleau.info : Les Béorlots : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the village of Achères, follow the signroads indicating the stadium, pass the service area of the motorway and park at the end of the road. Take La Route d'Achères for 700m (crossing la Route des Platières) and follow the TMF for 300 to 400m for the classical sector of "Le Labyrinthe" or the neighbor problems. Certain isolated boulder such as I comme Irun can be found on the left side of La Route d'Achères by following La Route des Platière or La Route du Furet.

1Maison de Campagne 7btraverse fltr / slopers / sitstart-
 [ 2 photos ] completely to the East of the area, between La Route de la Bourse and La Route des Béorlots. Sitstart with left hand at the angle, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
2Purée de Noisettes 7b+roofThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 4 photos ] low start of the roof just left of 74% de Cacao.
374% de Cacao 7a (6c)roofJocelyn-William Loubriat / Alexandre Jalama
*****  [ 5 photos ] to the East of the main sector, along La Route de la Bourse. From the "Labyrinthe", follow the TMF (Route d'Achères, Route des Platières) and turn left at the crossroad; the boulder can been see 50m to the left.
4Dérivation 6btraverse frtlBernard Théret
to the opposite of L'Étrave directe. Start with a flake/crack, traverse to the left and exit at the angle.
5L'Étrave directe 6aprow-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of Power-Lolotte. Low start and exit directly (sitstart on the left is 6b).
5bL'Étrave Trouée 6a+prow / mantleJean-Jacques Naëls
***** on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Low start as for L'Étrave directe and exit to the right via a mantle.
6Leçon de Piano 6ctraverse frtlJean-Jacques Naëls
***** to the left of 74% de Cacao, past the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Standing start or sitstart, traverse to the left and exit at the arete.
7Le Fond de l'Air 6a+wallBernard Théret
on the right face of the boulder of Power Lolotte, to the left of a big jug.
10Coup de Chaleur sur l'Antarctique 6b (6b+)wall / expoBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] left problem in an overhang 50m to the South-East of the labyrinth.
11Gold Rush 7ctraverse frtlThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start completely right, traverse to the left and exit as for Fat Cat.
11bPetit Pas 3+wall / slab / pocketsBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Easy direct problem on the right face of the boulder, at the start of Gold Rush.
12Le Pendentif 6b+traverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start in the left face with the two hands on a sloper and do the back traverse of Gold Rush.
13L'Hésitation 6b (6c)wall / dyno-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Dynamic problem on the left face of the boulder of Gold Rush.
13bFat Cat 7b (7a+)slightly overhanging / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Sitstart to the left and exit in the final overhang of Gold Rush.
14Le Brise-Glace 6b+traverse frtlBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the right face in L'Échelle à Trous, low traverse at the angle and exit in the second face in Haut les Pieds.
14bLe Brise-Glace retour 6ctraverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the left face, low traverse at the angle and exit in L'Échelle à Trous.
14cLe Brise-Glace en aller-retour 7a+ (7a)traverse-
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. There and back of Le Brise-Glace (starting either left or right : same difficulty).
15L'Échelle à Trous 3+wall / pockets-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
16Radiation 4+ (5)wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem to the right of Peu ou Proue, on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
17Peu ou Proue 6a (6a+)arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Prow in the middle of the traverse of Le Brise-Glace.
18Haut les Pieds 5+wall-
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the left face of Le Brise-Glace.
19Yalla 7c+traverse frtlThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 5 photos ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
19Yalla raccourci 6c+ (6c)traverse frtlThierry Guéguen
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the gully.
19bYalla retour 7b+ (7c)traverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 photos ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
19bYalla retour raccourci 7b+traverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the gully.
20Cavaporcis 6b+ (6c)overhang / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 3 photos ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully and exit directly.
20Cavaporcis droite 6c+traverse fltr / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
20Cavaporcis gauche 7ctraverse frtl / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
21La Cacherie 4+ (5-)slightly overhanging / sitstart-
on the South-Western hill.
22La Traversée de la Goulotte 6b+traverse frtl-
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-West hill, 15m to the West of the boulder of Yalla. Start completely right, pass the gully and the wall and exit after the angle in a small slab.
23Mi-Tendeur 6a+wallBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Left problem, with a big jug.
24Grincement 6awallBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Right angle on a boulder with a big jug.
25Entrée en Matière 5---
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the sector of "Le Labyrinthe".
25bLes Deux Fissures 6awall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] direct eliminate to the right of Entrée en Matière.
26Cross Roc 3+ (4-)wall-
on the left of the entrance of the labyrinth.
27Mort Sur 7bslightly overhanging / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] above the TMF, on a boulder to the left of the entrance of the labyrinth. Sitstart to the left of the angle, traverse slightly to the right and exit on the ledge using crimps.
28Platitude 5+wall / slopersJean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 10 photos ] wall with slopers at the beginning of the main area.
29Risque d'Avalanche 7a+wall / slopersBernard Théret
to the left of L'Arête Interdite, on the first boulder before the corridor. Start with slopers and exit to the right, near the end of the arete. Sitstart is 7b+/7c.
30L'Arête à Michton 6aareteMichel Grillère
left arete at the entrance of the "Labyrinthe".
31L'Arête Interdite 7awall / crackJacky Godoffe
*****  [ 3 photos ] on the first boulder before the corridor. Without the arete by convention.
32La Bricole 4+slab-
on the left of the boulder in front of the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
33La Jumbo 5+wall / slab-
 [ 1 photo ] to the opposite of La Prem's, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
34La Prem's 5-wall / slopers-
 [ 4 photos ] to the right of Salathé, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
35Salathé 7asitstart / crackJean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] dülfer-style crack at the entrance of the labyrinth (standing start is 6c+).
36La Fissure des Bovins 6acrack-
athletic crack right hand, just left of Salathé at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
37État d'Ivresse 5arete / slab-
right side of L'Arête à Michton, on the left at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
38La Roue de la Fortune 7b+ (7c)slabEmmanuel Ratouis
 [ 4 photos ] facing In Extremis, 1m50 to the left of No Man's Land.
39No Man's Land 7aslabEmmanuel Ratouis
 [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 12 photos ] long slab (friction) in a corridor, to the opposite of In Extremis.
40L'Excuse 7a+wall / expoStéphan Denys
 [ 7 photos ] to the opposite of No Man's Land, to the right of In Extremis.
40bIn Extremis 7b+wall / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
 [ 1 photo ] in the corridor, to the opposite of No Man's Land.
41Le Petit Toit 6aroof / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of the small roof just right of No Man's Land.
42Le Maître des Lieux 7awall / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 13 photos ] at the end of the corridor between No Man's Land and In Extremis. Start left and exit via an undercling and slopers.
45La Maîtresse 6bwall / expo-
diagonal to the left, on the wall to the right of Le Maître des Lieux.
46La Charlotte 4-wall-
to the right, on the boulder of Le Maître des Lieux, past the angle.
48Rébellion 6bwall-
 [ 1 photo ] right problem facing La Charlotte.
49Le Samaritain 5+ (6a)wall / crack-
*****  [ 4 photos ] left problem facing La Charlotte.
50L'Oblique 6cwall-
diagonal to the left at the beginning of Le Plouc.
50Le Plouc 5wall-
direct wall at the beginning of L'Oblique.
51La Bonne Affaire 4-slab-
non eliminating slab.
51Les Grattons Inutiles 6cslabJean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] eliminate to the left of La Bonne Affaire, without the big crimps on the right.
52Le Coupe-Ongles 6bwall / crimps-
 [ 1 photo ] in the center of the labyrinth, between Le Rasoir and L'Oblique.
53Le Rasoir 6b--
in the center of the labyrinth, to the opposite of La Bonne Affaire.
54Rapido 5-slab / crack-
 [ 1 photo ] at the end (and on the right) of "Le Labyrinthe".
55La Mine de Rien 5crack-
 [ 2 photos ] at the end (and on the left) of "Le Labyrinthe".
56Le Great Eastern 7ctraverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] 16m long traverse on the ridge of the platière, 50m to the North of the labyrinth.

 

Outside the topo

Power-Lolotte 6b (6b+)overhangJean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the TMF, 80m to the North of 74% de Cacao. Low start from the pedestal.
I comme Irun 7c+ (7c)prow / roof / mantleThierry Plaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 4 photos ] 5m high slightly overhanging prow with a small roof at the exit in the Western part of the sector. A direct method is possible (7b/7b+; morpho). Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 et 645; the boulder is on the left, past Mickey Mousse.
Katioushka gauche 7a+ (7a)prow / slightly overhanging / traverse frtlThierry Plaud
***** in an overhanging prow, at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart as for Katioushka, to the left of a big rock and exit to the left via a traverse.
Katioushka 7b+prow / overhang / sitstartThierry Plaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] overhanging prow at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart completely low, to the left of a big rock. The shortened variant exiting to the left is 7a/7a+.
La totale de Katioushka 7c (7c+)sitstart / overhang / prowChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart completely low, go up and then down to the start of Katioushka, and exit in this problem.
Le Plaisir de la Forme (et inversement) 6aareteChristian Roumégoux
follow the path past Katioushka up to an intersection, and then up to the left. The problem is a very special 3/4 meters long "lizard tail" close to the ground. Evident start on the left, go up and exit on horse back on the boulder.
Jeu de Pierre 7a+overhang / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 photo ] left exit of Egérie sans Vergogne, in the Western part of the area.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Égérie sans Vergogne 7b (7b+)overhang / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 photos ] in the Western part of the area, along "La Route des Platières". Sitstart and exit directly.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Double Face 8a+roofJacky Godoffe
 [ 2 photos ] very original roof 50m to the North of Le Chemin du Furet, 100m to the East of the crossing towards I comme Irun. Start completely low (15-18 moves).
Don't Take the Bonsaï 6carete / sitstartGérald Coste
*****  [ 7 photos ] left arete on the big boulder of Mickey Mousse and Little People. Please do not touch at the small tree at the top of the boulder!Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Don't Take the Bonsaï rallongé 7atraverse frtl / areteThierry Guéguen
***** on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Standing start at Mickey Mousse, traverse to the left using a pocket and exit via the arete of Don't Take the Bonsaï.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse 7barete / sitstartRomain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
*****  [ 3 photos ] central arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart to the left and exit via the arete.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse rallongé 7b+traverse fltr / areteThierry Guéguen
***** on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart as for Don't Take the Bonsaï, traverse to the right usingg a pocket and exit via the arete of Mickey Mousse.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Little People 7a+arete / sitstartRomain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
*****  [ 9 photos ] right arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Mickey Mousse. Sitstart to the left and exit via the arete.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Épinéphrine 7a (7a+)roof / expoThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 photos ] right problem in an overhang 50m to the South-East of the labyrinth; low start.

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