Bleau.info : Les Béorlots : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the village of Achères, follow the signroads indicating the stadium, pass the service area of the motorway and park at the end of the road. Take La Route d'Achères for 700m (crossing la Route des Platières) and follow the TMF for 300 to 400m for the classical sector of "Le Labyrinthe" or the neighbor problems. Certain isolated boulder such as I comme Irun can be found on the left side of La Route d'Achères by following La Route des Platière or La Route du Furet.

1	Maison de Campagne 7b	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
completely to the East of the area, between La Route de la Bourse and La Route des Béorlots. Sitstart with left hand at the angle, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
2	Purée de Noisettes 7b+	roof	Thierry Guéguen
low start of the roof just left of 74% de Cacao.
3	74% de Cacao 7a (6c)	roof	Jocelyn-William Loubriat / Alexandre Jalama
to the East of the main sector, along La Route de la Bourse. From the "Labyrinthe", follow the TMF (Route d'Achères, Route des Platières) and turn left at the crossroad; the boulder can been see 50m to the left.
4	Dérivation 6b	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
to the opposite of L'Étrave directe. Start with a flake/crack, traverse to the left and exit at the angle.
5	L'Étrave directe 6a	prow	-
on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of Power-Lolotte. Low start and exit directly (sitstart on the left is 6b).
5b	L'Étrave Trouée 6a+	prow / mantle	Jean-Jacques Naëls
on the boulder to the right of 74% de Cacao, 10m to the North of the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Low start as for L'Étrave directe and exit to the right via a mantle.
6	Leçon de Piano 6c	traverse frtl	Jean-Jacques Naëls
to the left of 74% de Cacao, past the overhang of Power-Lolotte. Standing start or sitstart, traverse to the left and exit at the arete.
7	Le Fond de l'Air 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the right face of the boulder of Power Lolotte, to the left of a big jug.
10	Coup de Chaleur sur l'Antarctique 6b (6b+)	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
left problem in an overhang 50m to the South-East of the labyrinth.
11	Gold Rush 7c	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start completely right, traverse to the left and exit as for Fat Cat.
11b	Petit Pas 3+	wall / slab / pockets	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Easy direct problem on the right face of the boulder, at the start of Gold Rush.
12	Le Pendentif 6b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Start in the left face with the two hands on a sloper and do the back traverse of Gold Rush.
13	L'Hésitation 6b (6c)	wall / dyno	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Dynamic problem on the left face of the boulder of Gold Rush.
13b	Fat Cat 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the South-East of Yalla. Sitstart to the left and exit in the final overhang of Gold Rush.
14	Le Brise-Glace 6b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the right face in L'Échelle à Trous, low traverse at the angle and exit in the second face in Haut les Pieds.
14b	Le Brise-Glace retour 6c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Start on the left face, low traverse at the angle and exit in L'Échelle à Trous.
14c	Le Brise-Glace en aller-retour 7a+ (7a)	traverse	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. There and back of Le Brise-Glace (starting either left or right : same difficulty).
15	L'Échelle à Trous 3+	wall / pockets	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
16	Radiation 4+ (5)	wall	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem to the right of Peu ou Proue, on the right face of Le Brise-Glace.
17	Peu ou Proue 6a (6a+)	arete	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Prow in the middle of the traverse of Le Brise-Glace.
18	Haut les Pieds 5+	wall	-
on the South-Western hill, 50m to the opposite of the labyrinth, 30m to the East of Yalla. Direct problem on the left face of Le Brise-Glace.
19	Yalla 7c+	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
19	Yalla raccourci 6c+ (6c)	traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely right, low traverse to the left and exit at the gully.
19b	Yalla retour 7b+ (7c)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
19b	Yalla retour raccourci 7b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Start completely left, low traverse to the right and exit at the gully.
20	Cavaporcis 6b+ (6c)	overhang / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully and exit directly.
20	Cavaporcis droite 6c+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face.
20	Cavaporcis gauche 7c	traverse frtl / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the South-Western hill, 60m to the opposite of the labyrinth. Sitstart at the gully, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face on slopers.
21	La Cacherie 4+ (5-)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the South-Western hill.
22	La Traversée de la Goulotte 6b+	traverse frtl	-
on the South-West hill, 15m to the West of the boulder of Yalla. Start completely right, pass the gully and the wall and exit after the angle in a small slab.
23	Mi-Tendeur 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Left problem, with a big jug.
24	Grincement 6a	wall	Bernard Théret
on the South-West hill, 15m to the South-East of the boulder of Yalla. Right angle on a boulder with a big jug.
25	Entrée en Matière 5-	-	-
to the left of the sector of "Le Labyrinthe".
25b	Les Deux Fissures 6a	wall	-
direct eliminate to the right of Entrée en Matière.
26	Cross Roc 3+ (4-)	wall	-
on the left of the entrance of the labyrinth.
27	Mort Sur 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
above the TMF, on a boulder to the left of the entrance of the labyrinth. Sitstart to the left of the angle, traverse slightly to the right and exit on the ledge using crimps.
28	Platitude 5+	wall / slopers	Jean-Jacques Naëls
wall with slopers at the beginning of the main area.
29	Risque d'Avalanche 7a+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
to the left of L'Arête Interdite, on the first boulder before the corridor. Start with slopers and exit to the right, near the end of the arete. Sitstart is 7b+/7c.
30	L'Arête à Michton 6a	arete	Michel Grillère
left arete at the entrance of the "Labyrinthe".
31	L'Arête Interdite 7a	wall / crack	Jacky Godoffe
on the first boulder before the corridor. Without the arete by convention.
32	La Bricole 4+	slab	-
on the left of the boulder in front of the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
33	La Jumbo 5+	wall / slab	-
to the opposite of La Prem's, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
34	La Prem's 5-	wall / slopers	-
to the right of Salathé, at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
35	Salathé 7a	sitstart / crack	Jean-Jacques Naëls
dülfer-style crack at the entrance of the labyrinth (standing start is 6c+).
36	La Fissure des Bovins 6a	crack	-
athletic crack right hand, just left of Salathé at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
37	État d'Ivresse 5	arete / slab	-
right side of L'Arête à Michton, on the left at the entrance of "Le Labyrinthe".
38	La Roue de la Fortune 7b+ (7c)	slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
facing In Extremis, 1m50 to the left of No Man's Land.
39	No Man's Land 7a	slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
long slab (friction) in a corridor, to the opposite of In Extremis.
40	L'Excuse 7a+	wall / expo	Stéphan Denys
to the opposite of No Man's Land, to the right of In Extremis.
40b	In Extremis 7b+	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
in the corridor, to the opposite of No Man's Land.
41	Le Petit Toit 6a	roof / sitstart	-
sitstart of the small roof just right of No Man's Land.
42	Le Maître des Lieux 7a	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
at the end of the corridor between No Man's Land and In Extremis. Start left and exit via an undercling and slopers.
45	La Maîtresse 6b	wall / expo	-
diagonal to the left, on the wall to the right of Le Maître des Lieux.
46	La Charlotte 4-	wall	-
to the right, on the boulder of Le Maître des Lieux, past the angle.
48	Rébellion 6b	wall	-
right problem facing La Charlotte.
49	Le Samaritain 5+ (6a)	wall / crack	-
left problem facing La Charlotte.
50	L'Oblique 6c	wall	-
diagonal to the left at the beginning of Le Plouc.
50	Le Plouc 5	wall	-
direct wall at the beginning of L'Oblique.
51	La Bonne Affaire 4-	slab	-
non eliminating slab.
51	Les Grattons Inutiles 6c	slab	Jean-Jacques Naëls
eliminate to the left of La Bonne Affaire, without the big crimps on the right.
52	Le Coupe-Ongles 6b	wall / crimps	-
in the center of the labyrinth, between Le Rasoir and L'Oblique.
53	Le Rasoir 6b	-	-
in the center of the labyrinth, to the opposite of La Bonne Affaire.
54	Rapido 5-	slab / crack	-
at the end (and on the right) of "Le Labyrinthe".
55	La Mine de Rien 5	crack	-
at the end (and on the left) of "Le Labyrinthe".
56	Le Great Eastern 7c	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
16m long traverse on the ridge of the platière, 50m to the North of the labyrinth.
		Outside the topo
Power-Lolotte 6b (6b+)		overhang	Jean-Jacques Naëls
to the left of the TMF, 80m to the North of 74% de Cacao. Low start from the pedestal.
I comme Irun 7c+ (7c)		prow / roof / mantle	Thierry Plaud
5m high slightly overhanging prow with a small roof at the exit in the Western part of the sector. A direct method is possible (7b/7b+; morpho). Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 et 645; the boulder is on the left, past Mickey Mousse.
Katioushka gauche 7a+ (7a)		prow / slightly overhanging / traverse frtl	Thierry Plaud
in an overhanging prow, at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart as for Katioushka, to the left of a big rock and exit to the left via a traverse.
Katioushka 7b+		prow / overhang / sitstart	Thierry Plaud
overhanging prow at the intersection of La Route du Collet and La Route du Piège. Sitstart completely low, to the left of a big rock. The shortened variant exiting to the left is 7a/7a+.
La totale de Katioushka 7c (7c+)		sitstart / overhang / prow	Christian Roumégoux
sitstart completely low, go up and then down to the start of Katioushka, and exit in this problem.
Le Plaisir de la Forme (et inversement) 6a		arete	Christian Roumégoux
follow the path past Katioushka up to an intersection, and then up to the left. The problem is a very special 3/4 meters long "lizard tail" close to the ground. Evident start on the left, go up and exit on horse back on the boulder.
Jeu de Pierre 7a+		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
left exit of Egérie sans Vergogne, in the Western part of the area.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Égérie sans Vergogne 7b (7b+)		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
in the Western part of the area, along "La Route des Platières". Sitstart and exit directly.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères and take La Route des Platières for 700m; the boulder is on the right, 60m before the crossing with La Route de la Hase.
Double Face 8a+		roof	Jacky Godoffe
very original roof 50m to the North of Le Chemin du Furet, 100m to the East of the crossing towards I comme Irun. Start completely low (15-18 moves).
Don't Take the Bonsaï 6c		arete / sitstart	Gérald Coste
left arete on the big boulder of Mickey Mousse and Little People. Please do not touch at the small tree at the top of the boulder!Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Don't Take the Bonsaï rallongé 7a		traverse frtl / arete	Thierry Guéguen
on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Standing start at Mickey Mousse, traverse to the left using a pocket and exit via the arete of Don't Take the Bonsaï.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse 7b		arete / sitstart	Romain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
central arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart to the left and exit via the arete.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Mickey Mousse rallongé 7b+		traverse fltr / arete	Thierry Guéguen
on the big boulder with Don't Take the Bonsaï and Little People. Sitstart as for Don't Take the Bonsaï, traverse to the right usingg a pocket and exit via the arete of Mickey Mousse.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Little People 7a+		arete / sitstart	Romain Hocquemiller / Gérald Coste
right arete on the big boulder of Don't Take the Bonsaï and Mickey Mousse. Sitstart to the left and exit via the arete.Access : from the parking lot of the stadium, follow La Route d'Achères, take La Route des Platières for 250m and then the first path on the right, between the plots 644 and 645; the boulder is on the left, on the way to I Comme Irun.
Épinéphrine 7a (7a+)		roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
right problem in an overhang 50m to the South-East of the labyrinth; low start.

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