Bleau.info : Apremont Bizons : Topo

From Barbizon, follow the Allée des Vaches to the East and park the car at the refreshment bar of la Caverne aux Brigands. Walk on La Route de Sully for 400m and continue ahead on the path. The circuits and boulder are on the slope to the right.

1-1	La Banquette de Veau 6a (6a+)	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse; morpho.
1-2	Raide Bulle 5	arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Start right as for La Banquette de Veau but exit directly.
1-3	Pas d'Bill 5-	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
central problem on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Exit to the left of the arete.
1-4	Le Bluff à l'Eau 5	wall / dyno / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Jumpstart at the tree and exit above. Sitstart is 6a/6a+.
1-5a	Le Bull Doseur 6c (7a)	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Sitstart completely left, low traverse and exit in La Banquette de Veau (morpho).
1-5b	Buffalo Soldier 7b	arete / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Sitstart completely left, climb the arete on slopers and exit at the top.
1-5c	Buffalo Soldier rallongé 7b (7b+)	arete / slopers / underclings	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Museau", near the bottom of the slope, above La Route Marie-Thérèse. Sitstart completely left, climb the arete on slopers as for Buffalo Soldier,downclimb on underclings and exit in La Banquette de Veau (morpho).
2-1	L'Hampe Hâlée 6b	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder of "La Joue", near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart and exit in the belly. Standing start is 5c. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
2-2	Le Pal Rond 5+ (6a)	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "La Joue", near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart and exit in the belly. Standing start is 5b. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
3-1	Le Bouton Pression 6c	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the North-East face of a boulder near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
4-1	Filet de Voie 5	traverse fltr / sitstart	Franck Martinez / Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of "Le Filet", near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart at the left angle, low traverse and exit at the right angle Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
4-1-2	Filet Mignon 6a	traverse / sitstart	Franck Martinez / Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of "Le Filet", near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart at the left angle, low traverse up to the right angle, come back and exit in the middle of the boulder. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
4-2	Faux, Fi, Laid 5+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Franck Martinez / Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of "Le Filet", near the bottom of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart at the right angle, make an ascending traverse and exit in the middle of the boulder. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse and traverse to the right up the slope at the first visible boulders.
5-1	Serval 7b (7b+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
left problem on the boulder of "Le Serval", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart, climb the overhang to the left and exit by the round arete. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
5-2	Bisonours 6b (6b+)	overhang / sitstart	Julien Lefebvre / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "Le Serval", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart and climb the overhang directly. Standing start is 4c. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
6-1	Eskim'Otage 5 (5+)	slopers / mantle / sitstart	Julien Lefebvre / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Yack", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse for 1m on a ledge of slopers and exit above. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
6-2	Yack a Dit 6c (6c+)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Julien Lefebvre / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Yack", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse on a ledge of slopers and exit 1m before the left angle. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
6-2b	Yackouzi 6a+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Julien Lefebvre / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Yack", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse on a ledge of slopers and exit at the middle of it with good holds. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
6-3	Yackoumba 7a	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of "Le Yack", above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse on a ledge of slopers and exit at the left angle. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is one of the first ones, on the right up the slope.
7-1	Fils d'Hure 4 (4+)	overhang / wall	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
direct problem on a boulder with characteristic oblique cracks, above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart is 5b.
7-2	L'Hure Gens 5+ (6a)	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
on a boulder with characteristic oblique cracks, above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse with the upper crack and exit by a mantle at the end of it. Standing start is 6a/6b.
7-3	Hure We Can 6b (6c)	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
on a boulder with characteristic oblique cracks, above the thalweg, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart completely right, traverse with the upper crack and exit by a mantle in the middle. Standing start is 5a.
8-1	Carné à Souche 4 (4+)	arete / wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the left face of a small boulder to the left of a tree, 40m to the South-East of Shoot.
8-2	La Hache de Guerre 5	arete / wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left pillar on a small boulder to the left of a tree, 40m to the South-East of Shoot.
8-3	Francky Graze the Holy Wood 5+ (6a)	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right pillar on a boulder to the right of a tree, 40m to the South-East of Shoot.
8-4	Les Racines du Mâle 6a+	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the right face of a boulder to the right of a tree, 40m to the South-East of Shoot. Start left as for Francky Graze the Holy Wood and exit directly or to the right.
9-1	La Primeur de Gauche 7a	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the South face of a boulder 30m to the South-East of Shoot. Sitstart from the pedestal, traverse to the right and exit in the overhang on slopers. Standing start is 6c/6c+. Caution : don't use the big loose flake above the start!
10-1	Acrobatique 7a	dyno / sitstart	Dennis Teijsse
on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart to the left of Shoot with a thin crack, dyno to the top of the wall and exit above.
10-2	Shoot 7c+	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Olivier Lebreton
100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart in the center of the overhang, dyno right hand to a crimp and exit above.
10-3	Out 5+	wall	-
direct problem to the right of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8.
10-4	Shit 7a (6c)	roof / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart on the right with the two hands on an undercling, climb the roof to the left and exit above with this vertical holds and the arete right hand. NB : standing start is 5c and exit without the arete is a difficult 7a.
10-5	Shut 6c (6c+)	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart on the right with the two hands on an undercling, climb the roof to the right and exit on the right face with the arete left hand. Standing start is 4c.
10-6	Le Dégraissé 7a	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart on the right with the two hands on an undercling, climb the roof to the right, traverse to the right behind the tree and exit in the right face. Standing start is 4a.
10-7	Super Mammouth 8a+	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / dyno	Olivier Lebreton
on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart completely left, traverse to the right in the overhang and exit in Shit without using the right arete by convention (7c+ with the arete).
10-8	Petite Moumoute 7a+	traverse fltr / roof / wall	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of Shoot, 100m uphill above orange n°8. Sitstart to the left of the boulder as for Shoot, traverse to the right under the roof and behind the tree and exit on the right face in Le Dégraissé, without using the arete.
11-1	- 3+	crack	-
left problem on the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
11-10	Chat Loupé 5	wall / mantle	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem, without the gully, on the East face of the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
11-2	- 4	wall / crack	-
former arrival of the blue circuit, on the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5. Start from the left pit is 5b .
11-3	L'Acerbe du Bizon 7a (7a+)	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5. Standing start in the left pit (or sitstart from the stone) and exit just left of the arete of Jazz, without using the crack.
11-4	Super Bison 5+	pillar	-
evident angle on the boulder just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5. Sitstart is 5c.
11-5	Jazz 4+	wall	-
just right of the arete of Super Bison, on the boulder under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5. Sitstart is 5c.
11-5	Jazz en traversée 5+ (6a)	wall / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5. Start completely left, traverse the face, pass the angle of Super Bison and exit in the face just after.
11-6	J'Use 6a (6b)	wall / dyno	-
direct wall, without the right arete, on the South face of the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
11-7	J'Ose 5+	arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
11-8	Charon 6a	wall / mantle / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the East face of the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
11-9	L'Entrechat de Gouttière 4	crack	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
central problem, with the gully, on the East face of the boulder of "Super Bison", just under Shoot, towards the East up the hill from red n°5.
12-1	Crux et Friction 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl / slab / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a small boulder 15m before Shoot, to the East from red n°5. Sitstart to the right in a corridor, traverse to the left and exit by the slab with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand.
13-1	La Verte Èbre 5-	wall / arete	-
on the East face of the boulder just left of Bisonodrome, in the direction of Shoot from red n°5. Sitstart is 5c.
13-2	La Colonne Bisontine 4+	arete	-
on the boulder just left of Bisonodrome, in the direction of Shoot from red n°5.
13-3	Le Truc Ulhan 6b	slab	Gilles Cottray
on the North face of the boulder just left of Bisonodrome, in the direction of Shoot from red n°5.
14-1	Bisonodrome 7a	wall / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on a boulder above n°5 rouge, towards the South hill. Sitstart in a broken rock, climb the wall to the left and exit by a mantle on slopers.
15-1	Le Plat de Côte 5 (6a)	slab	-
on the North face of the boulder above blue n°23.
16-1	La Bavette 5- (5)	wall	-
on the North face of the boulder underneath blue n°27.
17-1	L'Œil de Bœuf 6a	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
just right of blue n°28, on a boulder under the crest towards the South hill. Sitstart in the overhang and exit directly. Standing start is 4b.
17-2	L'Assis Clope 6a+	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
just right of blue n°28, on a boulder under the crest towards the South hill. Sitstart in the overhang and exit on the left face. Standing start is 4c.
18-1	- 4	slab	-
blue 30 |
18-2	La Grande Dame 6a	slab	-
just right of blue n°30, on th eNorth face of a boulder under the crest towards the South hill.
19-1	- 3	slab	-
blue 20 | NB : take care of the possibilities of downclimbing this boulder!
19-2	- 6a	slab	-
just right of blue n°20.
19-3	- 5+	slab	-
right problem on the boulder of blue n°20.
20-1	L'Appel de Fond 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the North face of a boulder on the crest towards the South hill, 10m underneath blue n°20. Sitstart, traverse to the left on the ledge without using the pedestal and exit by a mantle on the left angle. Standing start is 6c/7a.
20-2	L'Appel à Tarte 6c	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the North face of a boulder on the crest towards the South hill, 10m underneath blue n°20. Sitstart, traverse to the left on the ledge without using the pedestal and exit by a mantle before the left angle. Standing start is 6a.
21-1	L'Entre Côtes 6a+	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder of blue n°18, above the corridor.
21-2	Le Faufilé sans Filet 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of blue n°18, above the corridor.
21-3	Crépuscule 6c	arete	-
climb the arete of blue n°18 right hand.
21-4	- 5-	arete	-
blue 18 |
22-1	Lisse en Cieux 7a	slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
direct slab just left of blue n°16 without using the arete, on the boulder of "Pavé gauche", on the crest towards the top of the hill.
22-2	- 4+	arete / slab	-
blue 16 |
22-3	Aube 6a+	arete / slab	-
on the boulder of "Pavé gauche", on the crest towards the top of the hill. Climb the arete left hand between blue n°16 and .
22-4	Le Lisse sans Ciment 6b	slab	-
direct slab just left of blue n°17, with the good crimp of that one, on the boulder of "Pavé gauche", on the crest towards the top of the hill.
22-5	- 5-	slab	-
blue 17 |
23-1	Rond de Gîte 4+	wall / mantle	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
left problem on the boulder of "Le Gîte", to the right of blue n°34, near the top of the South hill.
23-2	Gît Ronde 5+	wall / mantle	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of "Le Gîte", to the right of blue n°34, near the top of the South hill. Dynamic start in the face to the left of the overhang and exit by a mantle above.
23-3	Le Ju Gît d'Sous 6c (6c+)	overhang / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Gîte", to the right of blue n°34, near the top of the South hill. Sitstart to the left of the overhang, dyno to acrimp and exit above. Standing start is 6b/6b+.
23-4	Le Jet Gît Sue 7a+	wall / dyno / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right problem on the boulder of "Le Gîte", to the right of blue n°34, near the top of the South hill. Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit with the right ledge. Standing start is 6b/6b+.
24-1	- 5-	wall	-
blue 9 bis |
24-2	Le Sot l'Y Laisse 7a (7b)	wall	Gilles Cottray
just right of blue n°9 bis, on the right face of the boulder of blue n°9 bis; morpho.
25-1	- 5-	wall	-
blue 12 |
25-1b	La Clé de 12 5+	traverse frtl / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart to the right, traverse to the left and exit in blue n°12 bis.
25-2	Carre à Casse 6c (7a)	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of blue n°12, near the top of the South hill. Sitstart to the right of blue n°12, climb the round pillar and exit without using the arete of blue n°12 bis. Standing start is 6b/6c.
25-3	- 5-	wall / slab	-
blue 12 bis | on the facet to the right of blue n°12 bis. Sitstart is 5b/5c.
25-3b	Carcasse Radicale 5+ (6a)	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
standing start to the left of blue n°12, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°12 bis.
26-1	L'Onglée 6b	slab	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the face of blue n°36 (arrival of the blue circuit), near the top of the hill.
26-2	Les Charlottes 6a	slab	-
just right of blue n°36, on the face of the arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill.
26-3	- 5	slab / high	-
blue 36 |
26-4	Bizon Volant 6b+	slab / high	Gilles Cottray
high slab to the left of blue n°36, on the face of the arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill. NB : it is also possible to start completely right with a big crimp right hand (6a).
26-4	Bizon Volant assis 7b (7b+)	belly / slab / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the face of the arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill. Sitstart in the belly to the left of blue n°36, mantle up on the slab and exit by that one.
26-5	Le Bizon d'Arçon 6c	pillar / high	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
pillar to the left of blue n°36, on the boulder of the arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill.
26-6	- 5+	wall	-
blue 36 bis | sitstart is 6a.
26-7	L'Esprit de Croupe 5+ (5)	arete / wall	-
on the boulder of "La Queue" (arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill), to the right of blue n°35 bis. Standing start and exit by the arete or on the right face. Sitstart is 6a+.
26-8	Le Rhum Steack 6b	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "La Queue" (arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill), to the right of blue n°35 bis. Eliminate of L'Esprit de Croupe, using inly the thin crack to the left of the arete and that one only for the exit. Sitstart is 6c.
26-9	- 4+	wall	-
blue 35 bis | sitstart is 5c.
26–10	Collier Serré 6b	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Queue" (arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill). Direct wall to the left of blue n°35 bis. Standing start is 5c.
26–11	Bombe Hash 7a	traverse frtl / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Pepito
on the boulder of "La Queue" (arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill). Sistart at the angle or slightly to the left under the big flake of blue n°36 bis, traverse to the left (back sense of L'Araignée, au Plat, Fond) and exit at the end of the face.
26–11	L'Araignée, au Plat, Fond 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / arete / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Queue" (arrival of the blue circuit, near the top of the hill). Sistart with oblique holds left hand and an undercling right hand, traverse on crimps, dyno the the jug of blue n°35 bis and exit along the arete of L'Esprit de Croupe. NB : it is also possible to exit in the right face (same grade).
27-1	La Corne m'Use 6a+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
left problem on the boulder of blue n°1, at the beginning of the traverse of blue n°1. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-1-5	- 5-	traverse fltr	-
blue 1 |
27-2	L'Encornée 6b (6b+)	arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
left arete on the boulder of blue n°1. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-3a	Corne de Bisonneau 6c (6c+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the boulder of blue n°1. Sitstart in the middle of the traverse of blue n°1 and exit on the left arete. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-3b	Corne de Bisonneau direct 7a	wall / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of blue n°1. Sitstart in the middle of the traverse of blue n°1 and exit directly to the right of the arete. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-4a	Corne de Bizon 7a	traverse frtl / arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of blue n°1. Sitstart at the end of the traverse of blue n°1, traverse on the ledge of slopers and exit on the left arete. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-4b	Corne de Bison direct 7a+	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of blue n°1. Sitstart at the end of the traverse of blue n°1, traverse on the ledge of slopers and exit to the right of the arete. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
27-5	P'tit Bizon 5+ (6a)	wall	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
right problem on the boulder of blue n°1. Start at the end of the traverse of blue n°1 and exit above. Sitstart is 5c/6a. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is at the top of that one, on the right up the slope.
28-1	Le Sauté de Veau 6b+	slightly overhanging / dyno / mantle	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Dent", in the South part of the sector, near the crest. Jump start at the horizontal part of the ledge of Sitting Jump Buc and exit by a mantle above. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m, and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is on the right, near the top of the slope.
28-1	Le Sauté de Veau prolongé 7a+	slightly overhanging / arete / expo	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder of "La Dent", in the South part of the sector, near the crest. Jump start at the horizontal part of the ledge of Sitting Jump Buc and exit by the left arete (expo). Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m, and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is on the right, near the top of the slope.
28-2	Sitting Jump Buc 7a+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Dent", in the South part of the sector, near the crest. Sitstart on a stone, traverse to the left on a ledge of slopers and exit by a mantle in a vague gully. Standing start is 6c+. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m, and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is on the right, near the top of the slope.
28-2	Sitting Jump Buc prolongé 7c	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder of "La Dent", in the South part of the sector, near the crest. Sitstart on a stone, traverse to the left on a ledge of slopers and exit by the left arete (expo). Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m, and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is on the right, near the top of the slope.
29-3	The Francky Test Pads 5+	overhang	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
on the small boulder under that of "La Dent", in the South part of the sector, near the crest. Start in the overhang and exit by a mantle above. Sitstart is 6c. Access : from the asphalted road, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse for 300m, and go up the thalweg by a small path. The boulder is on the right, near the top of the slope.
30-1	Ju Pitre Hère 5+	slightly overhanging / crack	Frédéric Buc / Julien Lefebvre
eliminate on the left face of the boulder of "Bison Ailé", in the Eastern part of the sector. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, at the end of a small chaos.
30-2	Les L de Lilou 7b	prow / dyno	Frédéric Buc
central problem on the boulder of "Bison Ailé", in the Eastern part of the sector. Jump start and climb the prow. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, at the end of a small chaos.
30-2	Les L de Lilou light 6c+	prow	Frédéric Buc
central problem on the boulder of "Bison Ailé", in the Eastern part of the sector. Start from the stone and climb the prow. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, at the end of a small chaos.
30-3	L'Étireur d'Élytres 6c	wall / dyno	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right problem on the boulder of "Bison Ailé", in the Eastern part of the sector; jump start. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, at the end of a small chaos.
31-1	Le Roi de Carre Haut 5+ (6a)	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the North face of the boulder of "La Barbe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Dyno start is 5c. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, in the center of a small chaos.
31-2	Le Mur des Blairs Hauts 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
central problem on the North face of the boulder of "La Barbe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Start with the hold left hand. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, in the center of a small chaos.
31-3	Le Must et l'Idée 6c	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the North face of the boulder of "La Barbe", in the Eastern part of the sector, with the arete right hand. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg, in the center of a small chaos.
32-1	La Tranche de Rond 4+	slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem (without the arete) on the boulder of "Le Rond de Tranche", in the Eastern part of the sector. Direct without the vertical holds is 6a. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
32-2	Le Moment du Couple 6a+	pillar / slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right problem on the boulder of "Le Rond de Tranche", in the Eastern part of the sector. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
33-1	Les Nazes au Schiste 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "Le Lardon", in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, climb the wall and exit at the top of the boulder with a crack and slopers. Sitstart is 6c. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
33-1b	La Croix et la Manière 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "Le Lardon", in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart just right of a tree, take a big horizontal hold, pass on the right face using small underclings and exit by a round crack as for Les Nazes au Schiste. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
33-2	L'Enfance de Lard 4+ (5-)	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder of "Le Lardon", in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, climb the wall and exit on a ledge of slopers. Sitstart is 6b. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
33-2b	Lard et la Bannière 7a	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Lardon", in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart with crimps on the right face, traverse with a big horizontal hold and exit in the left face on slopers as for L'Enfance de Lard. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
34-1	Coutum' Fait Chier 5 (5+)	wall / slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder of "La Hampe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart is 6a/6b. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the first one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
34-2	Angles Obtus 4 (4+)	arete	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "La Hampe", in the Eastern part of the sector, with or without the good vertical hold. Sitstart is 5C/6a. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the first one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
34-3	L'Âme du Rasoir 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "La Hampe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start to the right of Coutum' Fait Chier, and climb the wall without the left holds. Sitstart on the left is 6c. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the first one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
34-4	La Rampe des Blaireaux 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "La Hampe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, traverse to the right on slopers and exit at the top of the pillar. Sitstart is 7a+. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the first one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
35-1	Le Zon-Bi 5+	wall / mantle	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder of "Le Tendron", in the Eastern part of the sector.problem on the North face of the boulder of "La Barbe", in the Eastern part of the sector. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the second one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
35-2	Les Rondes Heures 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
central problem on the boulder of "Le Tendron", in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the stone, dyno left hand to the angle and exit by a mantle above. Standing start is 6c/6c+. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the second one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.
35-3	Le Trou Pion 6b (6c)	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder of "Le Tendron", in the Eastern part of the sector. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route Marie-Thérèse. The boulder is the second one on the right of the path, 150m after a thalweg.

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