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Boigneville (interdit / forbidden) : blue D+

Area description
CAUTION : it is forbidden to climb this area for the moment (March 2010).

From Milly-la-Forêt, follow the D449 for 13km and turn left towards Boigneville. In the center of the village, take Lue Saint-Gervais on the left, cross the train line and park on the right on the other side, along Le Chemin de Malaccroupi. The problems are slightly further in the slope. Climbing there is only tolerated, please be particularly respectful of the place.

GPS parking lot


Jeux Multiples 4wall / slopers / slab
topo nºA1; along the path, between Mise à Plat (orange n°2) and Ventoline (orange n°1). Start in the wall on slopers and exit via a high slab.

Les Alvéoles 4-wall / pockets / high
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºA2; left problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb the wall with small pockets and exit to the left of the triangular facet.

Choix Multiples 5-wall / crack / high
topo nºA3; topo nºA3; central problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb a crack and exit to the left of the triangular facet.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Choix Multiples direct 5+

Les Cupules 4+wall / underclingsFrançois Louvel
topo nºB4; to the right of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3), along the path. Exit to the left with an undercling.
See also: Les Cupules direct 5

Pâte Brisée 4-slabFrançois Louvel
topo nºB5; along the path, just left of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3).

Exphaut 4-slab / high / expoFrançois Louvel
topo nºC6; to the left of Crack Route (orange n°4).

Cappuccino direct 4+wall / slabFrançois Louvel
topo nºP7; direct version of orange n°21 bis. Start in a steep wall and exit directly by the slab.
See also:  [ 2 photos ]  Cappuccino 4-

7 bis - 5+pillar / slab / highFrançois Louvel
topo nºPb; start in the pillar to the right of La Goulotte (orange n°20) and exit by the slab.

Précipitation 4wall / slabPepito
topo nºQ8; start in the center of the wall and exit by the slab.

8 bis - 4+wall / slab
topo nºQ; to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start with the chipped hold and exit by the slab.

Pince Monseigneur 4slightly overhanging / slabPepito
topo nºQ9; along the path, to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start in the slightly overhanging face and exit by a steep slab.

10  Jolie Trouvaille 4+wall
topo nºR10; just left of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22), without the holds of the arete.
See also: L'Arête à Franklin 3+

10 bis - 5-overhangFrançois Louvel
topo nºSb; to the right of Dévers et des Mûres (orange n°23).

11  Mât de Cocagne 5-arete / pillar / slightly overhanging
topo nºY11; overhanging pillar with big holds to the right of Rock in Line, at the beginning of the sector.

12  Trou Noir 5+wall / pockets
topo nºY12; left problem on the backside of the boulder of Rock in Line, behind the tunnel.
See also: - 6a

13  La Simplicité 4-wall / crimps / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nºW13; crimpsy wall with an exit on slopers on the boulder underneath L'Infini (orange n°25).

14  La Ficelle 4+wall / crack / mantleFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºV14; on the left face of L'Infini (orange n°25).

14 bis - 5-traverse fltr / slopersFrançois Louvel
topo nºVb; start to the left of L'Infini (orange n°25), traverse on slopers and exit in that one (or just before).

15  Poudre à Canon 5wallFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºT15; to the left of Poudre d'Escampette, on the left face of the boulder of Pâtisserie (orange n°24).

16  Coquille de Noix 5slightly overhanging / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nºO16; second problem to the left of Karma Gnôle (orange n°20 bis). Star in the overhang with a fragile hold and exit by a mantle.

17  Saut en Hauteur 5-crack / high
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºD17; just right of the nameless 5a pillar, on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.

18  Pareil 4wall / mantle
topo nºD18; wall (with exit to the left) to the right of orange n°7, on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Idem 5-

19  Idem 5-wall / mantle
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºD19; wall (with exit to the right) on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.
See also: Pareil 4

19 bis - 5-crack
topo nºEb; just left of orange n°6, on the boulder of Mirobol.

20  Niche Fiscale 4+pillar / highFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºE20; to the right of Linéo (orange n°10), on the boulder above Mirobol. Start just left of nameless 5b, pass in the cave and exit to the left as for the orange triangle.
See also: Niche Fiscale (sortie de droite) 5

21  Nil Vert 4+wallHélias Millerioux
topo nºG21; between Cornaline and Nil Bleu, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse.

21 bis Nil Bleu 5-crack / mantleThierry Caillaud
topo nºGb; to the left of Nil Blanc, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse.

21 ter - 5crack
topo nºGt; just left of the prow of Intensité 15/12.

22  L'Angle du Piédestal 5arete / pillar / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nºH22; on the right angle of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Start on the stone and exit by a mantle.

23  La Plage 5+traverse fltr / roof / dihedral
topo nºI23; to the left of the boulder of Patapouf, just under the plateau. Traverse to the right under the roof and exit by the dihedral.

24  Le Petit Mur 5wallFrançois Louvel
topo nºK24; small technical wall on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle.

25  Balcon Fleuri 5-traverse frtl
***** topo nºK25; high traverse on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle. Start at the downclimbing of orange n°16 and exit at the start of orange n°15 (il is possible to continue by this problem).
See also: Balcon Fleuri (par le bas) 5

25 bis Balcon Fleuri (par le bas) 5traverse frtl
***** topo nºK25; low traverse on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle.
See also: Balcon Fleuri 5-

26  Nuage Gris 5wall / slab / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nºL26; to the left of the dihedral of Comme à la Montagne (orange n°22). Start just left of the arete and exit via the steep slab.

27  Le Vol du Bourdon 5+crack / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nºL27; high crack on the left face of the boulder of Taratata.

28  La Sauterelle 6aarete
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºL28; arete with a jug to the left of Taratata; morpho.

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