![[ 7 + 8 : 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleau ] [ 7 + 8 : 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleau ]](http://www.climbing.nl/images/7plus8/1789banier.jpg)
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Area description
CAUTION : it is forbidden to climb this area for the moment (March 2010). From Milly-la-Forêt, follow the D449 for 13km and turn left towards Boigneville. In the center of the village, take Lue Saint-Gervais on the left, cross the train line and park on the right on the other side, along Le Chemin de Malaccroupi. The problems are slightly further in the slope. Climbing there is only tolerated, please be particularly respectful of the place.
GPS parking lot
| 1 | Jeux Multiples 4 | wall / slopers / slab | |
| topo nºA1; along the path, between Mise à Plat (orange n°2) and Ventoline (orange n°1). Start in the wall on slopers and exit via a high slab. | |||
| 2 | Les Alvéoles 4- | wall / pockets / high | |
| 3 | Choix Multiples 5- | wall / crack / high | |
| topo nºA3; topo nºA3; central problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb a crack and exit to the left of the triangular facet. See also: | |||
| 4 | Les Cupules 4+ | wall / underclings | François Louvel |
| topo nºB4; to the right of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3), along the path. Exit to the left with an undercling. See also: Les Cupules direct 5 | |||
| 5 | Pâte Brisée 4- | slab | François Louvel |
| topo nºB5; along the path, just left of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3). | |||
| 6 | Exphaut 4- | slab / high / expo | François Louvel |
| topo nºC6; to the left of Crack Route (orange n°4). | |||
| 7 | Cappuccino direct 4+ | wall / slab | François Louvel |
| topo nºP7; direct version of orange n°21 bis. Start in a steep wall and exit directly by the slab. See also: | |||
| 7 bis | - 5+ | pillar / slab / high | François Louvel |
| topo nºPb; start in the pillar to the right of La Goulotte (orange n°20) and exit by the slab. | |||
| 8 | Précipitation 4 | wall / slab | Pepito |
| topo nºQ8; start in the center of the wall and exit by the slab. | |||
| 8 bis | - 4+ | wall / slab | |
| topo nºQ; to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start with the chipped hold and exit by the slab. | |||
| 9 | Pince Monseigneur 4 | slightly overhanging / slab | Pepito |
| topo nºQ9; along the path, to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start in the slightly overhanging face and exit by a steep slab. | |||
| 10 | Jolie Trouvaille 4+ | wall | |
| topo nºR10; just left of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22), without the holds of the arete. See also: L'Arête à Franklin 3+ | |||
| 10 bis | - 5- | overhang | François Louvel |
| topo nºSb; to the right of Dévers et des Mûres (orange n°23). | |||
| 11 | Mât de Cocagne 5- | arete / pillar / slightly overhanging | |
| topo nºY11; overhanging pillar with big holds to the right of Rock in Line, at the beginning of the sector. | |||
| 12 | Trou Noir 5+ | wall / pockets | |
| topo nºY12; left problem on the backside of the boulder of Rock in Line, behind the tunnel. See also: - 6a | |||
| 13 | La Simplicité 4- | wall / crimps / mantle | François Louvel |
| topo nºW13; crimpsy wall with an exit on slopers on the boulder underneath L'Infini (orange n°25). | |||
| 14 | La Ficelle 4+ | wall / crack / mantle | François Louvel |
| 14 bis | - 5- | traverse fltr / slopers | François Louvel |
| topo nºVb; start to the left of L'Infini (orange n°25), traverse on slopers and exit in that one (or just before). | |||
| 15 | Poudre à Canon 5 | wall | François Louvel |
| 16 | Coquille de Noix 5 | slightly overhanging / mantle | François Louvel |
| topo nºO16; second problem to the left of Karma Gnôle (orange n°20 bis). Star in the overhang with a fragile hold and exit by a mantle. | |||
| 17 | Saut en Hauteur 5- | crack / high | |
| 18 | Pareil 4 | wall / mantle | |
| topo nºD18; wall (with exit to the left) to the right of orange n°7, on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol. See also: | |||
| 19 | Idem 5- | wall / mantle | |
See also: Pareil 4 | |||
| 19 bis | - 5- | crack | |
| topo nºEb; just left of orange n°6, on the boulder of Mirobol. | |||
| 20 | Niche Fiscale 4+ | pillar / high | François Louvel |
See also: Niche Fiscale (sortie de droite) 5 | |||
| 21 | Nil Vert 4+ | wall | Hélias Millerioux |
| topo nºG21; between Cornaline and Nil Bleu, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse. | |||
| 21 bis | Nil Bleu 5- | crack / mantle | Thierry Caillaud |
| topo nºGb; to the left of Nil Blanc, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse. | |||
| 21 ter | - 5 | crack | |
| topo nºGt; just left of the prow of Intensité 15/12. | |||
| 22 | L'Angle du Piédestal 5 | arete / pillar / mantle | François Louvel |
| topo nºH22; on the right angle of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Start on the stone and exit by a mantle. | |||
| 23 | La Plage 5+ | traverse fltr / roof / dihedral | |
| topo nºI23; to the left of the boulder of Patapouf, just under the plateau. Traverse to the right under the roof and exit by the dihedral. | |||
| 24 | Le Petit Mur 5 | wall | François Louvel |
| topo nºK24; small technical wall on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle. | |||
| 25 | Balcon Fleuri 5- | traverse frtl | |
See also: Balcon Fleuri (par le bas) 5 | |||
| 25 bis | Balcon Fleuri (par le bas) 5 | traverse frtl | |
See also: Balcon Fleuri 5- | |||
| 26 | Nuage Gris 5 | wall / slab / mantle | François Louvel |
| topo nºL26; to the left of the dihedral of Comme à la Montagne (orange n°22). Start just left of the arete and exit via the steep slab. | |||
| 27 | Le Vol du Bourdon 5+ | crack / mantle | François Louvel |
| topo nºL27; high crack on the left face of the boulder of Taratata. | |||
| 28 | La Sauterelle 6a | arete | |
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