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Boigneville (interdit / forbidden) : virtual TD+

Area description
CAUTION : it is forbidden to climb this area for the moment (March 2010).

From Milly-la-Forêt, follow the D449 for 13km and turn left towards Boigneville. In the center of the village, take Lue Saint-Gervais on the left, cross the train line and park on the right on the other side, along Le Chemin de Malaccroupi. The problems are slightly further in the slope. Climbing there is only tolerated, please be particularly respectful of the place.

GPS parking lot

GPS start of the circuit


Gazoline 5crack / chimney / highFrançois Louvel
***** topo nºM1; hight problem along the path, on the further boulder from the parking lot.

Choix Multiples direct 5+wall / crack / high
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nºA2; central problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb a crack and exit in the triangular facet.
See also: Choix Multiples 5-

- 6a+pillar / areteFrançois Louvel
***** topo nºL3; on the right face of the boulder of Taratata.

3 bis - 6adihedral / overhang
topo nºLb; start as for Comme à la Montagne (orange n°18), but exit on the right in the overhang.
See also: Comme à la Montagne 3-

Cadeau de Bienvenue 6aslightly overhanging / crackFrançois Louvel
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nºL4; to the left of Le Vol du Bourdon (blue n°27), on the left face of the boulder of Taratata. Right start is 5c.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  - 6a

- 6aslightly overhanging / crackFrançois Louvel
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nºL5; just right of Disgrâce, on the left face of the boulder of Taratata.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Cadeau de Bienvenue 6a

- 6aoverhang
topo nºk6; on the boulder just left of Sentinelle.

6 bis - 6awallPepito
***** topo nºKb; first problem on the fragile wall to the left of the arete of Sentinelle.

- 6bwall / crack / sitstartFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºj7; underneath the plateau, on the bowl-shaped boulder above Sentinelle. Sitstart and exit slightly to the left.

- 6acrack
***** topo nºI8; high crack to the left of A Aqaba, on the boulder of Patapouf.

8 bis A Aqaba! 6a+crack / dihedral / highPepito / François Louvel
***** topo nºIb; high Dülfer-type crack to the left of Patapouf.

8 ter Beach Boys 6croof / topropePascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nºIc; direct problem to the left of Patapouf, under the plateau. 7a with the traverse from Pouf Paf Pif.

L'Enchêné 6bwall / crackHélias Millerioux / François Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºHb; behind the oaks, on the right side of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Exit by the left with fragile flakes/cracks.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  L'Enchêné (sortie de gauche) 6b

9 bis L'Enchêné (sortie de gauche) 6bwall / crackPascal Etienne / François Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºH9; behind the oaks, on the right side of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Left exit of L'Enchêné.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  L'Enchêné 6b

10  Nil Rouge 5+crackThierry Caillaud
***** topo nºG10; Dülfer-type crack just left of Coco-Fesse.

11  - 5+crackChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nºF11; crack to the right of Densité 21.5.

11 bis - 5+ (6a)wall / crimps / toprope
***** topo nºFb; high wall with fragile crimps to the right of the face of Densité 21.5. 5c by the right and 6a direct.

12  Niche Fiscale (sortie de droite) 5wall / slopersFrançois Louvel
topo nºE12; to the right of Linéo (orange n°10), on the boulder above Mirobol. Start in the pillar, pass in the cave as for Niche Fiscale, but exit to the right.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Niche Fiscale 4+

12 bis - 5traverse fltr / arete / expoFrançois Louvel
topo nºEb; start by a traverse over Linéa (orange n°9) and exit via the arete.

12 ter Salpètre 5-high / expoFrançois Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
topo nºEt; on the left of the face of Linéo (orange n°10).

13  - 5-pillar / underclings / slab
***** topo nºD13; just right of orange n°7, on the boulder underneath Densité 21.5. Start in the pillar, take the underclings and exit by a high slab.

13 bis Toboggan 6bwall / expoFrançois Louvel
topo nºCb; toboggan on the left of Dülfer Road (orange n°4).

14  - 6a+overhangFrançois Louvel
topo nºO14; just left of Karma Gnôle (orange n°20 bis).

15  - 5+wall
***** topo nºR15; on the left of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22).

16  Boule de Suif 5+ (6a)wallFrançois Louvel
***** topo nºT13; to the left of the flake of Poudre à Canon, on the left face of the boulder of Pâtisserie (orange n°24).

17  - 6atraverse fltr / sitstartFrançois Louvel
***** topo nºW17; sitstart and traverse to the right on the boulder underneath L'Infini (orange n°25).

18  - 6acrackFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] topo nºX18; crack to the right of the corridor, on the boulder above the nameless 7a at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart is 6b
Access : follow the path for 50m from the parking lot, take the first small path up the slope just after the nameless 7a and traverse immediately to the left.


19  - 5crack
topo nºY19; crack between Rock in Line and the Mât de Cocagne (blue n°11), at the beginning of the sector.

20  - 6boverhangChristophe Laumone
***** topo nºZ20; right problem in the overhang, on the first boulder of the sector, just above the path. Sitstart is 6c.

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