Bleau.info : Boigneville (interdit / forbidden) : Topo

thanks to François Louvel

CAUTION : it is forbidden to climb this area for the moment (March 2010).

From Milly-la-Forêt, follow the D449 for 13km and turn left towards Boigneville. In the center of the village, take Lue Saint-Gervais on the left, cross the train line and park on the right on the other side, along Le Chemin de Malaccroupi. The problems are slightly further in the slope. Climbing there is only tolerated, please be particularly respectful of the place.

		Circuit AD orange (nº 1)
1	Ventoline 2+	crack / chimney / slab	-
topo A1 |
1 bis	Le Nid 3	slightly overhanging / high	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
topo Ab | morpho start.
2	Mise à Plat 2+	wall / pillar	François Louvel
topo A2 |
3	Le Pavé dans la Mare 3+	slab	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
topo B3 |
4	Dülfer Road 2	crack	François Louvel
topo C4 |
4 bis	Crack Route 3	crack / expo	François Louvel
topo Cb | thin crack.
5	La Boule à Zéro 2	mantle	François Louvel
topo c5 |
6	La Conque à Bacs 2	-	François Louvel
topo D6 |
7	La Grande Traversée 2	traverse	François Louvel
topo D7 |
8	L'Oppo dans l'Eau 3	crack	François Louvel
topo D8 |
8 bis	- 3+	crimps / high	François Louvel
topo Db |
8 ter	- 2-	overhang / crack / high	François Louvel
topo D | high overhang with mushroom-shaped holds.
9	Linéa 2	wall / traverse fltr / slab	François Louvel
topo E9 | exit via a slab (several possibilities).
10	Linéo 3-	overhang / traverse frtl / high	François Louvel
topo E10 | physical overhang and finish by an easy traverse (or a high exit).
11	Malinette 3+	traverse	François Louvel
topo f11 |
12	Lisse et Haut 2	slab	François Louvel
topo F12 |
13	San Tiano 2+	slab / arete	François Louvel
topo G13 |
14	L'Angle In 3	slab / arete	François Louvel
topo H14 |
14 bis	- 2+	wall / crimps / traverse fltr	François Louvel
topo H | to the right of the crack.
14 ter	Le Petit Chêne Gêne 2	wall / crimps	François Louvel
topo H | to the left of the crack.
15	La Quête du Grâle 2+	traverse frtl / overhang / arete	François Louvel
topo K15 | start by an overhanging traverse and exit via a high arete.
16	Le Calice 2+	downclimbing / traverse	François Louvel
topo K16 |
16 bis	- 5	downclimbing / traverse	François Louvel
topo K16 | prolongation with a low traverse.
16 ter	- 6a	downclimbing / traverse	François Louvel
topo K16 | prolongation with a high traverse.
17	Nanoline 2	wall / crimps	François Louvel
topo L17 |
17 bis	- 2-	wall / pockets	François Louvel
topo Lb | wall with jugs and a fragile flake to the right of orange n°17; exit directly or by an easy traverse.
18	Comme à la Montagne 3-	dihedral	François Louvel
topo L18 | high dihedral.
19	Le Noisetier 3-	arete / high / traverse fltr	François Louvel
topo A19 |
19 bis	- 3	slab	François Louvel
topo A | morpho.
19 ter	La Noisette 2	slab	François Louvel
topo Ab | left slab.
20	La Goulotte 3+	chimney	-
topo P20 |
20 bis	Karma Gnôle 4-	overhang	François Louvel
topo Ob |
21	Cappuccinette 3	arete	-
topo Q21 |
21 bis	Cappuccino 4-	wall / slab	François Louvel
topo Pb | start at the angle by a small overhang (with the left boulder) and exit via the slab.
22	L'Arête à Franklin 3+	arete	-
topo R22 |
23	Dévers et des Mûres 3+	overhang	François Louvel
topo S23 | overhanging start (morpho).
23 bis	Vert c'est Bucolique 3+	traverse frtl	François Louvel
topo Sb | short traverse.
23 ter	Versant Botanique 4-	traverse frtl	François Louvel
topo St | prolongation of Vert c'est Bucolique.
24	Pâtisserie 4	wall / underclings / mantle	François Louvel
topo T24 |
25	L'Infini 4+	crack / high	François Louvel
topo V25 | start with the crack (from the right boulder if necessary).
25 bis	L'Autruche 4-	wall / expo	François Louvel
topo Vb |
26	Papi Line 3+	crack	François Louvel
topo U26 |
26 bis	Popeline 4-	slab / expo	François Louvel
topo Ub | morpho.
26 ter	Tourmaline 3+	overhang	François Louvel
topo Ut |
27	Cocaline 3-	overhang / mantle	François Louvel
topo u27 |
28	Arvaline 3+	wall	François Louvel
topo pla28 | on the plateau.
		Circuit D+ blue
1	Jeux Multiples 4	wall / slopers / slab	-
topo A1 | along the path, between Mise à Plat (orange n°2) and Ventoline (orange n°1). Start in the wall on slopers and exit via a high slab.
2	Les Alvéoles 4-	wall / pockets / high	-
topo A2 | left problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb the wall with small pockets and exit to the left of the triangular facet.
3	Choix Multiples 5-	wall / crack / high	-
topo A3 | central problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb a crack and exit to the left of the triangular facet.
4	Les Cupules 4+	wall / underclings	François Louvel
topo B4 | to the right of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3), along the path. Exit to the left with an undercling.
5	Pâte Brisée 4-	slab	François Louvel
topo B5 | along the path, just left of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3).
6	Exphaut 4-	slab / high / expo	François Louvel
topo C6 | to the left of Crack Route (orange n°4).
7	Cappuccino direct 4+	wall / slab	François Louvel
topo P7 | direct version of orange n°21 bis. Start in a steep wall and exit directly by the slab.
7 bis	- 5+	pillar / slab / high	François Louvel
topo Pb | start in the pillar to the right of La Goulotte (orange n°20) and exit by the slab.
8	Précipitation 4	wall / slab	Pepito
topo Q8 | start in the center of the wall and exit by the slab.
8 bis	- 4+	wall / slab	-
topo Q | to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start with the chipped hold and exit by the slab.
9	Pince Monseigneur 4	slightly overhanging / slab	Pepito
topo Q9 | along the path, to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21). Start in the slightly overhanging face and exit by a steep slab.
10	Jolie Trouvaille 4+	wall	-
topo R10 | just left of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22), without the holds of the arete.
10 bis	- 5-	overhang	François Louvel
topo Sb | to the right of Dévers et des Mûres (orange n°23).
11	Mât de Cocagne 5-	arete / pillar / slightly overhanging	-
topo Y11 | overhanging pillar with big holds to the right of Rock in Line, at the beginning of the sector.
12	Trou Noir 5+	wall / pockets	-
topo Y12 | left problem on the backside of the boulder of Rock in Line, behind the tunnel.
13	La Simplicité 4-	wall / crimps / mantle	François Louvel
topo W13 | crimpsy wall with an exit on slopers on the boulder underneath L'Infini (orange n°25).
14	La Ficelle 4+	wall / crack / mantle	François Louvel
topo V14 | on the left face of L'Infini (orange n°25).
14 bis	- 5-	traverse fltr / slopers	François Louvel
topo Vb | start to the left of L'Infini (orange n°25), traverse on slopers and exit in that one (or just before).
15	Poudre à Canon 5	wall	François Louvel
topo T15 | to the left of Poudre d'Escampette, on the left face of the boulder of Pâtisserie (orange n°24).
16	Coquille de Noix 5	slightly overhanging / mantle	François Louvel
topo O16 | second problem to the left of Karma Gnôle (orange n°20 bis). Star in the overhang with a fragile hold and exit by a mantle.
17	Saut en Hauteur 5-	crack / high	-
topo D17 | just right of the nameless 5a pillar, on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.
18	Pareil 4	wall / mantle	-
topo D18 | wall (with exit to the left) to the right of orange n°7, on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.
19	Idem 5-	wall / mantle	-
topo D19 | wall (with exit to the right) on the right face of La Grande Traversée (orange n°7), on the boulder of Mirobol.
19 bis	- 5-	crack	-
topo Eb | just left of orange n°6, on the boulder of Mirobol.
20	Niche Fiscale 4+	pillar / high	François Louvel
topo E20 | to the right of Linéo (orange n°10), on the boulder above Mirobol. Start just left of nameless 5b, pass in the cave and exit to the left as for the orange triangle.
21	Nil Vert 4+	wall	Hélias Millerioux
topo G21 | between Cornaline and Nil Bleu, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse.
21 bis	Nil Bleu 5-	crack / mantle	Thierry Caillaud
topo Gb | to the left of Nil Blanc, on the boulder of Coco-Fesse.
21 ter	- 5	crack	-
topo Gt | just left of the prow of Intensité 15/12.
22	L'Angle du Piédestal 5	arete / pillar / mantle	François Louvel
topo H22 | on the right angle of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Start on the stone and exit by a mantle.
23	La Plage 5+	traverse fltr / roof / dihedral	-
topo I23 | to the left of the boulder of Patapouf, just under the plateau. Traverse to the right under the roof and exit by the dihedral.
24	Le Petit Mur 5	wall	François Louvel
topo K24 | small technical wall on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle.
25	Balcon Fleuri 5-	traverse frtl	-
topo K25 | high traverse on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle. Start at the downclimbing of orange n°16 and exit at the start of orange n°15 (il is possible to continue by this problem).
25 bis	Balcon Fleuri (par le bas) 5	traverse frtl	-
topo K25 | low traverse on the right face of the boulder of Sentinelle.
26	Nuage Gris 5	wall / slab / mantle	François Louvel
topo L26 | to the left of the dihedral of Comme à la Montagne (orange n°22). Start just left of the arete and exit via the steep slab.
27	Le Vol du Bourdon 5+	crack / mantle	François Louvel
topo L27 | high crack on the left face of the boulder of Taratata.
28	La Sauterelle 6a	arete	-
topo L28 | arete with a jug to the left of Taratata; morpho.
		Circuit TD+ virtual
1	Gazoline 5	crack / chimney / high	François Louvel
topo M1 | hight problem along the path, on the further boulder from the parking lot.
2	Choix Multiples direct 5+	wall / crack / high	-
topo A2 | central problem of the West face of a high boulder, 150m from the parking lot. Climb a crack and exit in the triangular facet.
3	- 6a+	pillar / arete	François Louvel
topo L3 | on the right face of the boulder of Taratata.
3 bis	- 6a	dihedral / overhang	-
topo Lb | start as for Comme à la Montagne (orange n°18), but exit on the right in the overhang.
4	Cadeau de Bienvenue 6a	slightly overhanging / crack	François Louvel
topo L4 | to the left of Le Vol du Bourdon (blue n°27), on the left face of the boulder of Taratata. Right start is 5c.
5	- 6a	slightly overhanging / crack	François Louvel
topo L5 | just right of Disgrâce, on the left face of the boulder of Taratata.
6	- 6a	overhang	-
topo k6 | on the boulder just left of Sentinelle.
6 bis	- 6a	wall	Pepito
topo Kb | first problem on the fragile wall to the left of the arete of Sentinelle.
7	- 6b	wall / crack / sitstart	François Louvel
topo j7 | underneath the plateau, on the bowl-shaped boulder above Sentinelle. Sitstart and exit slightly to the left.
8	- 6a	crack	-
topo I8 | high crack to the left of A Aqaba, on the boulder of Patapouf.
8 bis	A Aqaba! 6a+	crack / dihedral / high	Pepito / François Louvel
topo Ib | high Dülfer-type crack to the left of Patapouf.
8 ter	Beach Boys 6c	roof / toprope	Pascal Etienne
topo Ic | direct problem to the left of Patapouf, under the plateau. 7a with the traverse from Pouf Paf Pif.
9	L'Enchêné 6b	wall / crack	Hélias Millerioux / François Louvel
topo Hb | behind the oaks, on the right side of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Exit by the left with fragile flakes/cracks.
9 bis	L'Enchêné (sortie de gauche) 6b	wall / crack	Pascal Etienne / François Louvel
topo H9 | behind the oaks, on the right side of the boulder of Intensité 15/12. Left exit of L'Enchêné.
10	Nil Rouge 5+	crack	Thierry Caillaud
topo G10 | Dülfer-type crack just left of Coco-Fesse.
11	- 5+	crack	Christophe Laumone
topo F11 | crack to the right of Densité 21.5.
11 bis	- 5+ (6a)	wall / crimps / toprope	-
topo Fb | high wall with fragile crimps to the right of the face of Densité 21.5. 5c by the right and 6a direct.
12	Niche Fiscale (sortie de droite) 5	wall / slopers	François Louvel
topo E12 | to the right of Linéo (orange n°10), on the boulder above Mirobol. Start in the pillar, pass in the cave as for Niche Fiscale, but exit to the right.
12 bis	- 5	traverse fltr / arete / expo	François Louvel
topo Eb | start by a traverse over Linéa (orange n°9) and exit via the arete.
12 ter	Salpètre 5-	high / expo	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
topo Et | on the left of the face of Linéo (orange n°10).
13	- 5-	pillar / underclings / slab	-
topo D13 | just right of orange n°7, on the boulder underneath Densité 21.5. Start in the pillar, take the underclings and exit by a high slab.
13 bis	Toboggan 6b	wall / expo	François Louvel
topo Cb | toboggan on the left of Dülfer Road (orange n°4).
14	- 6a+	overhang	François Louvel
topo O14 | just left of Karma Gnôle (orange n°20 bis).
15	- 5+	wall	-
topo R15 | on the left of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22).
16	Boule de Suif 5+ (6a)	wall	François Louvel
topo T13 | to the left of the flake of Poudre à Canon, on the left face of the boulder of Pâtisserie (orange n°24).
17	- 6a	traverse fltr / sitstart	François Louvel
topo W17 | sitstart and traverse to the right on the boulder underneath L'Infini (orange n°25).
18	- 6a	crack	François Louvel
topo X18 | crack to the right of the corridor, on the boulder above the nameless 7a at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart is 6b Access : follow the path for 50m from the parking lot, take the first small path up the slope just after the nameless 7a and traverse immediately to the left.
19	- 5	crack	-
topo Y19 | crack between Rock in Line and the Mât de Cocagne (blue n°11), at the beginning of the sector.
20	- 6b	overhang	Christophe Laumone
topo Z20 | right problem in the overhang, on the first boulder of the sector, just above the path. Sitstart is 6c.
		Circuit ED+ virtual
1	- 6c	wall / pockets / high	François Louvel
topo A1 | wall with painful pockets, on the boulder of orange n°1, 200m from the parking lot.
2	- 6b	crack	-
topo L2 | to the left of the pillar, on the face of Taratata.
3	Disgrâce 6c	slightly overhanging / crack / high	François Louvel
topo L3 | belly just right of the angle, on the left face of the boulder of Taratata.
4	- 6a+	wall / high	-
topo D4 | just right of Mirobol, on the high wall under Densité 21.5, between orange n°6 and orange n°7 along the second path, 150m from the parking lot.
5	Cornaline 6c+	arete / slopers / dyno	François Louvel
topo G5 | to the left of Nil Bleu, on the left arete of the boulder of Coco-Fesse. Start at the arete, to the right of orange n°13, traverse on slopers and exit by a dyno.
6	Nil Blanc 6b	crack / slopers / high	François Louvel
topo G6 | high crack with an exit on slopers, to the left of Nil Rouge on the boulder of Coco-Fesse.
7	Moment de Détente 6b	arete	François Louvel
topo I7 | left arete on the boulder of Patapouf, just under the plateau.
8	Plats de Résistance 7a	overhang / slopers / sitstart	François Louvel
topo O8 | sitstart on the boulder to the right and slightly above orange n°20.
9	Q 6c	arete / mantle / slopers	-
topo Q9 | at the angle to the left of Cappuccinette (orange n°21), along the path.
10	La Poudre d'Escampette 5+	arete	François Louvel
topo T10 | angle to the left of Pâtisserie (orange n°24), on the boulder at the middle of the slope by following the first path 50m from the parking lot.
11	- 6c	overhang / mantle	Christophe Laumone
topo Z11 | standing start of the overhang by the left, on the first boulder of the sector, just above the path.
11 bis	- 7b	overhang / crimps / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
topo Z11 | sitstart of the overhang by the left, on the first boulder of the sector, just above the path. A 8a eliminate is also possible.
12	Roc in Line 7a	arete	François Louvel
topo Y12 | left arete on the boulder above the nameless 7a at the beginning of the sector. Access : follow the path for 50m from the parking lot, take the first small path up the slope just after the nameless 7a and traverse immediately to the left.
13	Rocking Line 7a	crack / traverse frtl / sitstart	François Louvel
topo X13 | to the right of the corridor, on the boulder above the nameless 7a at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart, climb the nameless 6b crack, traverse to the left in the tunnel via a large horizontal crack and exit with a jug as for the nameless 6a. Access : follow the path for 50m from the parking lot, take the first small path up the slope just after the nameless 7a and traverse immediately to the left.
14	Diverticul 7a	overhang / mantle / crimps	François Louvel
topo U14 | exit via a mantle on crimps to the right of Papi Line (orange n°26) just under the plateau, by following the first path up the slope to its top.
		Outside the circuits
a	Mirobol 7a	wall / crimps / high	Catherine Miquel
wall starting with crimpsy holds on the right of the high wall under Densité 21.5, between orange n°6 and orange n°7 along the second path, 150m from the parking lot.
b	La Fissure 7a	crack	François Louvel
thin crack on the left face of the boulder of Densité 21.5.
B4	Les Cupules direct 5	wall / slopers	François Louvel
to the right of Le Pavé dans la Mare (orange n°3), along the path. Start as for Les Cupules, but exit directly on slopers.
c	Pouet Pouet 7b	wall / toprope	François Louvel
start from the stone to the left of Densité 21.5.
D	- 6c (7a)	traverse fltr	-
traverse to the right under the ledge and the crack on the boulder of Mirobol, on the high wall under Densité 21.5, between orange n°6 and orange n°7.
d	Densité 21.5 8a	wall / crimps / toprope	Christophe Laumone
10 moves toprope problem on a high boulder 150m past the parking lot by following the second path up the slope (cf Grimper n°35).
d	Densité 21.5 droite 7c+	wall / crimps / toprope	Greg Sobczak
right variant of Densité 21.5.
e	Coco-Fesse 7a	wall / arete / high	François Louvel
right arete on the boulder just left of Intensité 15/12, 20m above the one with Taratata.
e'	- 7a+	arete	François Louvel
arete just right of Coco-Fesse, on the boulder to the left of Intensité 15/12, 20m above the one with Taratata.
f	- 6c	wall / mantle	-
to the right of the 7a+ nameless arete, on the boulder to the left of Intensité 15/12, 20m above the one with Taratata. Hight start on theh right of the face and exit by a mantle.
F	Crack 5+	crack	Christophe Laumone / Thierry Caillaud
on the left face of the boulder of Densité 21.5.
g	- 7a+	wall / crimps	François Louvel
high crimpsy wall, starting just left of the prow of Intensité 15/12, on a big boulder 20m above and slightly left of Taratata. Due to the slope, many crash-pads are recommended.
h	Intensité 15/12 8a+	prow	François Louvel
evident prow on a big boulder 20m above and slightly left of Taratata.
i	- 7a+	crack / high	Catherine Miquel
evident prow just right of Intensité 15/12, on a boulder 20m above and slightly left of Taratata. NB : the rope may be useful (at least for cleaning up the monodoigt at the exit).
j	- 7b+	traverse fltr	Christophe Laumone
start at the crack to the right of the prow of Intensité 15/12, traverse to the right and exit via the nameless 7b or the nameless 6c.
k	- 7b	slightly overhanging / underclings	Christophe Laumone
on the right of the evident crack right of Intensité 15/12.
l	Détournement de Majeur 6c	wall / crimps	François Louvel
crimpsy wall on the left face of the arete of Moment de Détente, on the left of the boulder with Pouf Paf Pif, under the plateau, 30m above Taratata.
m	Patapouf 7a+	crack / overhang / high	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
crack with a sandy exit in the middle of the boulder with Pouf Paf Pif, underneath the plateau, 30m to the left and above Taratata.
n	Pouf Paf Pif 7b	overhang / expo	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
right problem with fragile flakes on a boulder underneath the plateau, 30m to the left and above Taratata.
o	Coin de Poigne 7a	crack / slopers	François Louvel
evident crack under the plateau, at the end of the sector, above the boulder of La Sentinelle.
p	Sentinelle 7a	arete / high	François Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
left arete on the high boulder 15m above Taratata.
q	Mirô 7b (7b+)	wall / dyno	Christophe Laumone
to the right of Taratata, 200m from the parking lot by following the third path on the left. Sitstart is 7c+.
q	Mirô assis 7c+	wall / dyno / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
sitstart of Mirô, to the right of Taratata, 200m from the parking lot by following the third path on the left.
r	Taratata 7a	crack	Christophe Laumone
evident crack in the middle of the slope before Densité 21.5 by following the third small path 200m from the parking lot.
r	Taratata assis 7b+	crack / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
sitstart of the evident crack in the middle of the slope before Densité 21.5 by following the third small path 200m from the parking lot.
R10	Vigilance 5+	wall / pockets	-
evident problem to the left of Jolie Trouvaille (blue n°10), on the boulder of L'Arête à Franklin (orange n°22).
s	Culbute 6b	sitstart	François Louvel
on the right of Dülfer Road (orange n°4).
t	Inculte 6c	slightly overhanging	François Louvel
belly to the left of orange n°5.
u	Toit là, Mate là 6b (6c)	overhang	François Louvel
just under the plateau, to the left of San Tiano (orange n°13).
Y	- 6a	wall / crimps	-
right problem on the backside of the boulder of Rock in Line, behind the tunnel.

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