Bleau.info : Bois Rond Auberge : Topo

Bleau.info : Bois Rond Auberge : Topo

This sector has been exploited only recently and only a dozen of boulders have been opened, most in the 7th grade. The access is from the equestrian centre (big parking lot after the classical sector of Bois Rond).

1	Didgeridoo 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a small boulder near the equestrian centre. Sitstart on the left of the overhang with the arete left hand, climb the overhang on crimps and exit at the top of the boulder as for Didgeridoo droite. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m; the boulder is 20m from the path.
2	Didgeridoo droite 6b (6b+)	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a small boulder near the equestrian centre. Sitstart in the middle of the overhang with a pocket left hand, dyno to the crack above, climb this one to the left and exit at the top of the boulder as for Didgeridoo. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m; the boulder is 20m from the path.
4	Impitoyable raccourci 6c+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart completely left, traverse to the right on slopers and exit by a mantle at the tree. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
4-8	Impitoyable par le haut 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Jean-Christophe Guibout
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart completely left, traverse to the right on slopers, downclimb 1m after the angle, traverse with top holds in the tunnel up to the big hold and exit on the small boulder on the back as for Les Fidèles Cassent Trop. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
4-9	Impitoyable aller-retour par le haut 7b+	traverse / slopers / sitstart	Jean-Christophe Guibout
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart completely left, traverse to the right on slopers, downclimb 1m after the angle, traverse with top holds in the tunnel up to the big hold and make the back traverse to the starting point. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
5	Intouchable 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart at the angle of Incassable, make a big dyno to a good hold on the left, traverse with top slopers after the tree and exit by a mantle at the end of the left face. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
6	St Anger 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Yano Salaün
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart at the angle of Incassable (or 1m to the left), make a big dyno to a good hold and exit by a mantle juste after the tree. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
7	Incassable 7a (6c+)	arete / crimps / dyno	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart at the angle, climb that one and dyno for a crimp right hand which has partially broken off. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
7b	Impitoyable 8a (7c+)	traverse fltr / slopers / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart completely left, traverse to the right on slopers, downclimb at the tree, join the arete with big moves and exit by this one as for Incassable. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
8	Les Fidèles Cassent Trop 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	Jérémy Lecouvert
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart with a pocket left hand 2m to the left of the angle, traverse with a flat hold, pass the arete, continue to traverse with low holds in the corridor up to the sitstart of Intouchable prolongé, take crimps on the back boulder and exit by a mantle on that one, on the other side of the tunnel. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
9	Intouchable prolongé 7c (7c+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Incassable, near the bottom of the slope, above La Route d'Arbonne à Achères. Sitstart in the tunnel on the right of the second face, traverse with top holds, downclimb at the angle, make a big dyno as for Intouchable, traverse with top slopers after the tree and exit by a mantle at the end of the left face. Access : from the parking lot of the equestrian centre, follow La Route d'Arbonne à Achères for 250m; the boulder is 30m above, shortly after a TMF mark on a tree.
14	La Ligne Verte 4	wall / sitstart	Filo Benjamin-Nunes / Tony Fouchereau
right problem in a small roof above the thalweg. Sitstart on the right between two small boulders and exit in the wall. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is 30-40m above.
14b	La Ligne Verte en traversée 6c+	traverse fltr / roof / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof above the thalweg. Sitstart left at a small prox, traverse to the right in the overhang (back traverse of Les Évadés), join the start of La Ligne Verte and exit by that one. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is 30-40m above.
15	Les Évadés 6c (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers / roof	Stéphane Carcone / Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof above the thalweg. Sitstart at a big piercing in the overhang, traverse to the right in the roof and exit by a mantle on the ledge of slopers above. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is 30-40m above.
16	Les Évadés prolongé 6c (7a)	traverse frtl / roof / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof above the thalweg. Sitstart at a big piercing in the overhang, traverse to the right in the roof as for Les Évadés, continue to traverse at a small round prow and exit by a mantle in the left face. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is 30-40m above.
17	Éva-Tard 6a	arete / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on 15m above 15m above Les Évadés up the hill from the thalweg. Sitstart to the right with a good pocket left hand and the arete right hand, climb that one on slopers and exit at the top as for Avatar.
18	Avatar 7b	wall / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on 15m above 15m above Les Évadés up the hill from the thalweg. Sitstart without crash-apd on the left of the arete with small underclings, climb the slightly overhanging wall and exit at the top as for Éva-Tard.
20	Les Dents de la Belle-Mer 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Olivier Gagneux / Tony Fouchereau
in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Le Grand Requin Blanc, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Sitstart on the left of the prow with the good pocket right hand and exit directly above. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.
20b	Les Dents de la Belle-Mer gauche 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Olivier Gagneux / Tony Fouchereau
in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Le Grand Requin Blanc, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Sitstart on the left of the prow with a crimp left hand by convention and exit directly above. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.
21	Les Dents de la Mer 6c (6b+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
right problem in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Le Grand Requin Blanc, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Sitstart on the right with the arete right hand, climb the overhanging prow and exit at the top. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.
23	Le Requin Marteau 6a	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
left problem in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Les Dents de la Mer, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Low sitstart in the pit with two good holds and exit directly in the left face. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.
24	Le Requin Lutin 7a+	prow / mantle / sitstart	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
left problem in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Les Dents de la Mer, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Low sitstart in the pit with two good holds, climb the overhanging prow and exit by a mantle in the left face with a crimp. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.
25	Le Gand Requin Blanc 7a+ (7b+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
right problem in the overhanging prow to the opposite of Les Dents de la Mer, 50m above the boulder of Évadés. Low sitstart in the pit with two good holds, climb the overhanging prow and exit completely right. Access : from the equestrian centre, follow Le Chemin de l'Auberge for 200m, turn right at the first boulders and follow a small path for 300m. The boulder is near the top of the crest.