Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Rocher de Bouligny : Circuit virtual ABO

Rocher de Bouligny : virtual ABO

Area description
from Fontainebleau, follow the D607 (ex N7) from Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque and turn back at the next crossing in order to park the car on the Eastern side of the road, 150m to the North of the aqueduct. The boulders of the two main sectors are located on both sides of La Route Pompadour (first path on the right of La Route d'Occident). Many other boulders have been opened recently near the crest, along the blue path. For some of them, it is convenient to park the car on the other side, at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes, on the D58.

GPS parking lot

N 48.386792, E 2.688981

1	Le Prie-Dieu 6b (6c)	traverse fltr
	topo nº4a; traverse on two faces, starting at the tree.
2	Les Beaux Quartiers 8a (8a+)	sitstart / overhang	Didier Gérardin / Julien Nadiras
	topo nº10b; from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Sitstart, traverse to the right and exit with the arete (standing start is 6c). NB : first opened by Didier Gérardin with a 7c+ version, but a hold broke off and the grade is now 8a/8a+ (first repeated by Julien Nadiras in this form).
3	Le Clown 8a (8a+)	overhang	Sébastien Frigault
	topo nº10c; from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Start to the right of Les Beaux Quartiers, exit directly without the arete. See also: Le Clown assis 8a+
4	Les Taudis 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers	Didier Gérardin
	topo nº10a; standing start of Les Beaux Quartiers. From the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side.
5	Passion et Vertu 6c	wall
	topo nº11f; to the left of Obstiné, on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
6	Obstiné 6c+ (6c)	wall / slopers	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº11d; in the centre of the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée. See also: Obstiné assis 6c+
6 bis	Obstiné assis 6c+	wall / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº11e; sitstart of Obstiné, in the centre of the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée. See also: Obstiné 6c+ (6c)
7	Le Presse Purée 7a+	sitstart / prow	Thierry Guéguen
	topo nº13a; sitstart of an overhanging prow two boulders behind Les Beaux Quartiers.
7 bis	Maître Corbeau 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers
	topo nº13b; right problem on the boulder of Le Presse Purée. Start with an undercling and exit to the left via slopers.
8	Le Plat Pays 7b+ (7b)	dyno / slopers / mantle	Didier Gérardin
	topo nº17d; on the left of the wave-shaped boulder above La Route Pompadour and the character "F". Start under the overhang, at the beginning of the traverse of Vague à l'Âme, dyno to the ledge and exit by a mantle on slopers.
9	Vague à l'Âme raccourci 6c	traverse fltr / slopers
	topo nº17e; on the right part of the wave-shaped boulder above the Route Pompadour. Traverse to the right as for Vague à l'Âme but exit before the right angle. See also: Vague à l'Âme 7a+
9 bis	Vague à l'Âme 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers
	topo nº17f; on the right part of the wave-shaped boulder above the Route Pompadour; exit to the right (6c otherwise). See also: Vague à l'Âme raccourci 6c
10	La Pierre à Savon / Cayenne 7b	wall / high	Eric Létot
	topo nº19a; high problem with a rock below above Vague à l'Âme and the character "F". Update : lichened (may 2009).
11	Misticati 6c	wall
	topo nº28c; to the right of the tree at the boulder with the character "D".
12	Banana Spleen / Coup d'Enfer 6c	traverse frtl / overhang	Grégoire Clouzeau
	topo nº29f; on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Start in the right face, pass the angle, continue to traverse to the left with the holds over the overhang and exit in Coup de Pompe (7a by traversing underneath the overhang). See also: Coup Bas d'Enfer 7a
12 bis	Coup Bas d'Enfer 7a	traverse frtl / underclings / overhang	Sébastien Frigault
	topo nº29g; on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Start to the right, traverse to the left with low underclings underneath the overhang and exit in Coup de Pompe (6c/6c+ with top holds). See also: Banana Spleen / Coup d'Enfer 6c
13	Scalpel 6c (6c+)	wall / dyno	Grégoire Clouzeau
	topo nº30c; on the wall of Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Start in the cave to the left of Hypotension; morpho.
14	Hypotension assis 6c (6c+)	sitstart / wall	Didier Gérardin
	topo nº30e; in the middle of the boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9. Sitstart to the right of Scalpel and exit directly (standing start is 6b). See also: Hypotension 6b, La Traversée d'Hypotension 7a (7a+)
15	Élastiques 6c+	traverse fltr / wall	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº30g; on the boulder with Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart and traverse from the star and exit in the right problem of the wall. Caution: the flake in the wall is very fragile and this problem may be dangerous!
15 bis	À l'Ombre d'Algie 6c	wall / slopers / mantle	Jean-Pierre Castell
	topo nº31a; 10m underneath blue path n°9, between the boulder of Hypotension and the one with La Citadelle.
16	Tohu-Bohu 6c	overhang
	topo nº40a; n the East face of the boulder with the letter "G".
17	Tornade 6c (7a)	sitstart / traverse fltr / bidoigt	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº35n; on the East side of the boulder of La Citadelle. Sitstart at the arete as for Sapristi, make a short traverse to the right and exit in the slab with bidoigts under a small tree.
18	Tumeur d'Amour assis 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº40i; on the South face of the boulder marked "G", on the right of the blue path. NB : a low 7a/7a+ sitstart without the pedestal is possible (using an undercling, a small hold and a heel hook left). See also: Tumeur d'Amour 6c
19	Archipiade Adanétaie 6b	slab
	topo nº42b; central problem, just left of Hissez haut, on a boulder underneath the blue path, at the end of the sector.
20	L'Apesanteur et la Grâce assis 6c (7a)	sitstart / wall / expo	Pascal Etienne
	topo nº43b'; behind Hissez Haut, at the end of the sector. Sitstart to the left and exit on the highest point, above a small boulder. See also: L'Apesanteur et la Grâce 6a