Bleau.info : Apremont Butte aux Peintres : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

In Barbizon, take the Allée des Vaches and park the car just after the last restaurant. The first boulders are located in the slope, over the "Millet et Rousseau" engraving.

1L'Ange et l'Us 7bslightly overhanging / underclingsGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] standing start.
1L'Ange et l'Us assis 7b+sitstart / slightly overhanging / underclingsGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart.
2L'Aigle à Nœud 7bsitstartGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart and exit to the left of the pillar.
3Le ... se Meurt 6bsitstart / slightly overhanging / expoGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart.
4Le Beau est Mien 6a+slab / slopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the left face.
5Roulotte-Ruse 5+wall / underclingsGilles Cottray
 [ 3 photos ] on the right face.
6Sortie de Fausse Raie 6b+crack / slopersGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] morpho.
7Claire y Erre 6aslab / areteGilles Cottray
*****  [ 2 photos ] near the top of the hill.
9Approche du Loin 6cslopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] standing start.
9Approche du Loin assis 7asitstart / slopersGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] sitstart of Approche du Loin (7a+ without the flake on the right).
9L'Aller aux Vaches 6csitstart / traverse frtlGilles Cottray
sitstart as for Troue-Peau dans la Poussière but traverse to the right.
10Porc très Triste 6awallGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] left problem on the boulder.
11Le Borgne 6bslabGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] standing start.
11Le Borgne assis 7acrimps / slab / sitstartGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart with a sloper, dyno to crimps, make a mantle on the ledge and exit in the slab of Le Borgne.
12Lait Mental 6cmantle / slabFrédéric Buc
***** standing start as for Le Borgne, and dyno to the big pocket.
12Lait Mental assis 6c+sitstart / mantle / slabFrédéric Buc
***** sitstart to the left and dyno to the big pocket.
13Le Tonchard 6a+-Gilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] start low on the ground.
14Chemin des Boas 7asitstart / slopers / pillarGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart, traverse to the left and exit on the pillar.
15L'Aller des Chats Teigneux 6csitstartGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] dynamic problem.
16Hache 5wallGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder marked "HM".
17Aime 4+wallGilles Cottray
on the boulder marked "HM".
18Étends 5+wallGilles Cottray
left problem.
19Oh, Rage 6awallGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] right problem; start without the arete.
20Le Muret des Landes 7adynoGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] morpho.
21Je l'ai Blanche 6b+wall / slopersGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] take the arete only at the end.
22Soleil Couchant 6b+wallGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] itstart is 6c.
23Le V de Lune 6b+wallGilles Cottray
standing start and exit in the center.
24Éclair de Lune 6c+wallGilles Cottray
direct to the right.
25Sortie de Sous-bloc 6c+slightly overhanging / expoGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart and traverse to the right without the top holds.
26Le Repos des Flâneurs 6csitstartGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart and make a hook left foot.
27Caresseur de Pierre 7bslightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] morpho.
28Paysage avec Grattons 7aslab / crimps / expoGilles Cottray
*****  [ 8 photos ] slightly expo.
29Les Hauts Heurts 6bsitstart / areteGilles Cottray
 [ 4 photos ] sitstart to the right of the slab Paysage avec Grattons.
30Le Bas te Leurre 6asitstartGilles Cottray
sitstart.
31Troue-Peau dans la Poussière 6c+ (7a)slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstartGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder of Lavage-Rinçage, to the right of the crack. Sitstart, dyno to a bidoigt and exit in the belly.
33L'Amarre aux Chaînes 7asitstart / traverse fltrGilles Cottray
*****  [ 14 photos ] without the top holds.

 

Outside the topo

Tempête 7c+traverse fltrAlain Thibault
 [ 1 photo ] on the left of the sector, underneath point 120 on the IGN map, between La Route des Gorges d'Apremont and La Route des Dames (plot 714). Start at the left arete, downclimb at the middle and exit to the right.
Lavage-Rinçage 6c+sitstart / slightly overhanging / mantleChristian Roïk
*****  [ 9 photos ] 3m to the left of Troue-Peau dans la Poussière, just left of the black crack.
Spin-Echo 6b (6c)overhang / crack / sitstartFranz Hagemann
 [ 3 photos ] on the right of the blue path, just before the crossing with the Route des Gorges d'Apremont. Sitstart in a cave in the South face of a small boulder and exit via a crack.
Les Ailes du Plaisir 7atraverse fltrFrédéric Buc
 [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] in the Eastern part of the sector, on the top of the hill (altitude 107m), above the Route des Ventes Alexandre. Start with a small crack left hand (white point for the foot), traverse to the right, downclimb at the crack and exit completely right.
Les Trous-Blions 6aslightly overhanging / crackFranck Martinez
 [ 1 photo ] in the Eastern part of the sector, on the top of the hill (altitude 107m), above the Route des Ventes Alexandre. Slightly overhanging wall in the middle of the traverse of Les Ailes du Plaisir.

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