Bleau.info : Rocher Cailleau : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

&bull	Alien 7c	roof / traverse frtl / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
sitstart to the right exit up to the left, on a characteristic boulder. Access : from Paris-la-Foret take the Chemin du Fond de la Garenne (first blocked path to the right in the direction of J.A. Martin), then the second path to the right (after left turn); the boulder is past a few meters on the left side.
&bull	La Baisée Niera 7a+	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray
wall with slopers with a fallen tree on its bottom, on the right side of the Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne, underneath the boulder of "Le Phalloïde". (GPS: N48.359218 E2.548219)
Sector Le Phalloïde
1	L'Aéro pris à Pic 6c (6c+)	wall / pillar / expo	Gilles Cottray
athletic wall on the left of the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Start in the middle of the wall and exit via the arete (sitstart is 7b). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
1'	L'Aéro Pris à Pic assis 7b	wall / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
athletic wall on the left of the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Sitstart in the middle of the walland exit via the arete (standing start is 6c/6c+). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
2	Le Vit d'Ange 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Sitstart at the bottom of the pillar and exit on its left side (sitstart is 7a). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
2'	Le Vit d'Ange assis 7a	slightly overhanging / sitstart / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Sitstart at the bottom of the pillar and exit on the left (standing start is 6a+/6b). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
3	Le Gland Incarné 6a (6b)	sitstart / wall / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Start at the bottom of the pillar and exit on its right side (sitstart is 7a). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
3'	Le Gland Incarné assis 7a	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Phalloïde" (big boulder on the top of the hill, 200m to the East of Alien). Sitstart at the bottom of the pillar and exit on its right side (standing start is 6a/6b). (GPS: N48.360244 E2.546591)
		Outside the topo
Vandale 7c		roof / sitstart	-
sitstart with the big hole on the boulder of Alien and exit to the left. Access : from Paris-la-Forêt direction JA Martin first blocked path to the right (Fond de la Garenne), second path to the right (after left turn); the boulder is after a few meters on the leftside.
Contre Sens 8a (8a+)		roof / sitstart	Christian Roumégoux
sitstart at the hole in the middle of the roof with Alien and exit to the right via the arete.
- 7a+ (7a)		roof / sitstart	-
sitstart in the roof to the left of Alien.
Cœur d'Alien 7c+ (8a)		roof / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
normal start in the middle of the roof on the boulder of Alien, direct exit.
Ventricule droit 8a		roof / dyno / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart at the right side of the roof, exit in Cœur d'Alien.
Ventricule gauche 8a+ (8a)		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in Vandale, exit in Cœur d'Alien.
Shamballa 7c		traverse frtl	Christophe Laumone
on the boulder to the right and underneath Alien. Start to the right at a tree and exit via the left angle.
Cœur de Rêve 6c+ (7a)		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
in a cave to the East of the area. Sitstart as for Tirelipimpon and exit to the right. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne for 60m, pass along the fences of Paris-Forêt. At the top of the hill, go down for 80m : the summit of the boulder appears 40m to the right.
Tirelipinpon 7a+ (7b)		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
in a cave to the East of the area. Sitstart as for Cœur de Rêve and exit to the left (easier for tall climbers). Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne for 60m, pass along the fences of Paris-Forêt. At the top of the hill, go down for 80m : the summit of the boulder appears 40m to the right.
Le Bon Sens 7c		overhang / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
sitstart in Alien and exit directly (same end as for Contre Sens). NB : first known realization connue by Christophe Laumone.
Giligili 7a		slab / crimps / monos	Yano Salaün
eliminating crimpsy slab with a monodoigt on the hill to the opposite of Le Phalloïde. 6a/b with the triangular hold on the right. Access : follow Le Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne and pass a path coming from the right. After a long bend to the right (500m from the road), climb the hill on the left : the boulder is at its top.
Le Sixième Sens 7b+ (7c)		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Alien. Sitstart to the left of the nameless 7a, traverse on the ledge of slopers and exit in Cœur d'Alien.
Malus en Falaise 6a+ (6b)		slightly overhanging / crack / slopers	J. Arrivepas
on a boulder 20m before La Baisée Niera, on the right side of the Chemin de la Pente de la Garenne, underneath the boulder of "Le Phalloïde".

© 1994-2012 bleau.info