Bleau.info : Canche aux Merciers : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

1	La Conjonction 6a+ (6a)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	-
low start 3m to the left of red n°1 and exit by this problem.
2	Le Crawl en Mer Rouge 6a+ (6b)	traverse	-
there and back of red n°2 and exit over the starting point.
3	Premier Jus 3+	wall	-
on the boulder just left of the start of red n°2.
4	Parade 6b	traverse fltr	-
low traverse from the start of the orange circuit; exit in red n°3.
5	Stone 5+ (6a)	wall	-
to the left of the crack of blue n°1.
7	Infusion du Soir 7a+	slab	Philippe Le Denmat
1m to the left of red n°6. Broken hold : still possible?
8	Tir à l'Arc 6c	sitstart	-
sitstart of blue n°2.
9	La Rotat 6b+	traverse fltr / wall	-
low start to the left of red n°7 and exit in that one.
10	La Rando de Gaëlle 5- (6a)	wall	-
sitstart at orange n°2, traverse to the left and exit before the angle.
11	Le Pré en Bulle 6b (6c)	traverse fltr	-
start in orange n°3, traverse to the right and exit either in the angle before blue n°3 (6b+/6c), either in blue n°3 (6b), either in red n°5 (6b).
12	Le Rotondiforme 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl	-
start to the right of blue n°4 bis, traverse to the left (without the top holds) and exit in blue n°4.
13	Le Mur Haine 6b	traverse	-
traverse (ltr or rtl) behind blue n°6 (there and back is 6c/6c+).
14	Le Petit Galet Rien 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl / slopers / roof	-
on the boulder to the right of blue n°7. Start to the right, traverse via slopers and exit to the left of the roof. There and back and exit via Lèv'Toit is 6c+/7a.
15	Lèv'Toit 6b (6a+)	sitstart / roof	Bernard Théret
sitstart on the boulder to the right of blue n°7.
16	La Bauge 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder to the right of blue n°7. Sitstart using a crimp under the characteristic moon-shaped hold.
17	Braquage 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl / wall / crack	-
start in the face to the right of red n°9, pass the angle towards the crack and exit in red n°9.
18	Râpetout 6a+	traverse fltr	-
start with the jug and traverse to the right.
19	La Souris Verte 6a+	traverse frtl	-
start at the jug as for Râpetout, traverse to the left and exit in the slab after the angle.
20	- 6a+	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of the arete on the left of red n°7.
21	Le Lépreux 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr / slopers	-
low start to the left and traverse to the right with slopers.
22	La Promenade 4+	traverse fltr / wall	-
in the face to the right of blue n°10. Traverse to the right and exit before the angle.
23	Épice 5+	wall	-
to the right of Morphoillogique (red n°10 bis).
24	Pixel 6c+	sitstart / wall / crimps	Guy Loppé
sitstart of Morphoillogique (red n°10 bis). Start on the right and exit via the crimps of red n°9 bis.
25	Exploreur 7a+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
prolongation of red n°10 : low traverse and exit in crack.
26	As de Pic 6b+	wall	-
to the left of red n°11.
27	Le Conque 6a+	traverse fltr	-
in the face to the left of blue n°19.
28	La Limace 5+	wall / crack	-
in the wall of the traverse of Le Conque.
29	La Dalle aux Hydes 5+	slab	-
to the opposite of blue n°20.
30	Rage Dedans 7b+	sitstart / roof / crack	Olivier Penel
in the roof to the left of red n°12. Sitstart underneath the roof in a crack and exit to the right.
31	L'Inattendue 5+ (6a)	wall	-
1m to the left of L'Inespéré, on the boulder to the left and just before red n°12.
31	L'Inespéré 6a	slab / arete	-
on the boulder to the left and just before red n°12.
32a	Le Planiforme 6c	wall	-
to the right of blue n°22.
32b	- 5+	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of blue n°22.
34	Jacadi 8a	dyno / overhang / sitstart	Jacky Godoffe
on the boulder of red n°13. Sitstart to the right of the overhang and dyno to the top.
35	Pattes de Coin 7a (6c+)	wall / mantle	-
on the boulder of orange n°19 and blue n°21. Start in the corridor on the right with a crimp, dyno right hand and exit via a mantle without using the arete.
36	La Puce 8a	dyno / overhang / sitstart	Fred Rouhling
sitstart to the right of Jacadi and dyno to the top.
37	La Grande Marche 7a+	crack / overhang / sitstart	-
on the boulder of red n°13. Sitstart of the crack to the right of Jacadi and La Puce (direct exit) NB : 'folklore' problem known at the end of the 80's.
38	La Petite Marche 6c+ (7a)	traverse frtl / slopers	-
start at the end of the crack, traverse to the left and exit in red n°12.
39	La Longue Marche 7b+ (7c)	traverse / roof	-
start in Jacadi, low traverse to the right, climb the crack, return left along the lip and exit via the angle. 7b by exiting directly by the crack of La Grande Marche. NB : the classical exit is no more possible since a big flake broke off.
40	La Grande Marche prolongée 7b	crack / overhang / traverse frtl	-
sitstart in the crack as for La Grande Marche, traverse to the left and exit in the round angle.
41	Le Toit des Braves 6b	overhang	-
to the left of red n°14.
42a	Bave était Toit 6c	traverse frtl / overhang	-
start in red n°14, low traverse to the left and exit in Toit des Braves.
42b	Le Bouclage 7a (6c+)	traverse / overhang	-
start in red n°14, low traverse to the left, climb Toit des Braves and come back to the starting point by downclimbing red n°14.
43	La Vague 6a	prow	-
on the boulder to the left of red n°14. Low start to the right and exit via the prow.
44a	Le Grand Nez 7b+	traverse fltr / slopers / overhang	Frédéric Séger
on the boulder facing blue n°39. Sitstart at the arete, traverse on slopers, downclimb the crack, pass under the roof and exit at the other side of the roof. Exit version completely right is 7c.
44b	L'Intégrale 7c	traverse fltr / slopers	Max
start as for Le Grand Nez but exit completely right after the roof.
44c	Pied de Nez (Le Grand Nez en aller-retour) 8a	traverse	Max
start as for Le Grand Nez, but at the exit of the roof, return to the left to the starting point with the ledge.
44d	L'Intégrale avec boucle 8a (7c+)	traverse	Max
start as for Le Grand Nez, but at the exit, traverse to the left with the holds on the top, downclimb the crack, traverse again to the right and exit completely right as for L'Intégrale.
45	Les Fesses 6a+ (6b)	crack / overhang	-
on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°39. Sitstart in the crack and exit via a mantle.
46	Narine droite 7a	sitstart / roof / mantle	-
on the boulder of Le Grand Nez, start underneath the crack, climb the roof and exit via a mantle just to the right of the crack.
47	Racine Carrée 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart to the left with a big flake, traverse after blue n°33 and exit before yellow n°15.
48	L'Angle Obtus 7b+ (7b)	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder of orange n°26, on the right of red n°15 (facing Coup Bas).
49	Franky Go 4 (4+)	wall	-
in the middle of the wall to the left of orange n°26.
50a	Coup Bas 7a+ (7a)	traverse frtl / overhang	-
red 15 bis | in the corridor, on the boulder of red n°15. Start at the right angle, traverse first with top holds, go down on horizontal holds, low traverse to the left and exit in the overhang of red n°15.
50c	La Grande Boucle 7b+ (7c)	traverse	-
start in Coup Bas, traverse to the left under the roof, then to the right on the ledge and return to te starting point via Coup Bas.
51	Deep Grès 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	-
traverse to the right in the face to the right of Coup Bas.
52	La Tour Penchée 5+ (6a)	wall / arete / sitstart	-
sitstart at the bottom of the angle and exit directly.
53	Face de Rat 7a+ (7b)	traverse frtl / slopers	Bernard Théret
traverse to the left as for Triste Rat, downclimb on slopers at the arete and exit in orange n°22.
54a	Triste Rat 6c	traverse frtl	-
on the face to the right of orange n°22. Start at the right angle, traverse to the left on crisps and exit in orange n°22.
54b	Triste Rat en aller-retour 6c+ (7a)	traverse / crimps	-
on the boulder of orange n°22. There and back of Triste Rat.
55	Épaulard 7c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°23. Back traverse of L'Or et l'Ail.
56	Larmes à l'Œil 6b (6c)	wall	-
to the left of blue n°24.
57	Apéri-Bloc 6b (6b+)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	-
start in blue n°24, traverse to the right and exit in the belly.
58	Mer Calme 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr	-
start in Épaulard and exit after 4 moves.
59	Vol aux Vents 5+	wall	-
to the left of blue n°23.
60	Roule ta Bille 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder of blue n°23. Start at the beginning of the face (blue triangle), traverse to the right and exit in Vol aux Vents.
61	Le Loir 6b+	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder of blue n°25. Start completely left, traverse and exit after the angle.
62	Quel Talon! 7a (7a+)	sitstart / slopers	Blokeur
sitstart of blue n°25 (with an undercling for your right hand).
63	Le Dauphin 6b+	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder below blue n°26. Start to the left and exit after the jug.
64	Le Planorme 6b+	-	-
on the boulder below blue n°26, on the backside of Le Dauphin; exit at the angle.
65	Jus de Clémentine 5+	wall	-
1m to the right of the angle with yellow n°27.
66	Pour le Plaisir 3 (3+)	wall	-
to the left of the angle, on the boulder with a characteristic roof between blue n°27 and yellow n°27.
67	Stratosphérique 5-	wall / sitstart	-
on the boulder just after blue n°26.
68	Rêve de Toit 6b+ (6c)	roof / expo / mantle	-
on the boulder with a characteristic roof between blue n°27 and yellow n°27. Start with a good hold right hand and exit in the angle of the roof.
69	Naissance 6b	traverse frtl	-
traverse on three faces.
70	Séance Friction 7a (7b)	traverse frtl / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the opposite and slightly right of blue n°28 (and of the exit of Mon Nom est Personne). Start the two hands in a crack, low traverse on slopers and exit completely left via the slab.
71a	M'sieur l'Inconnu 6c	traverse fltr	-
traverse to the right and exit in blue n°28.
71a	Mon Nom est Personne 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start completely left at the small boulder, traverse a first face on slopers and a second one with pockets and exit after the second angle in blue n°28.
71b	Mon Nom est Personne en aller-retour 7a+ (7b)	traverse	-
at the end of Mon Nom est Personne, traverse to the left on the ledge, downclimb the round angle, do the end of the back traverse and exit via a mantle above the starting point.
72	Chouchou Chéri 6b	traverse frtl / arete	-
red 15 ter | former n°16 of the red circuit.
72b	La Baleine 7a+	traverse frtl / overhang / slopers	Bernard Théret
start as for Chouchou Chéri (former red n°16) but exit 50cm to the left of the yellow stripe.
73	Le Fond de la Piscine 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the boulder to the left of orange n°27. Start to the left of the tree, traverse with slopers, downclimb to a jug, continue with other slopers and exit in a small face. There and back is 6c+/7a.
74a	Extorsion de Fond 7a+ (7b)	overhang / sitstart	Bernard Théret
to the left of orange n°27. Sitstart on the left with a vertical hold (without the other boulder for the feet), take a bidoigt and exit with pockets.
74b	Extorsion de Fond droite 5+ (5)	slightly overhanging	-
easier verion of Extorsion de Fond by the right.
75	Orange Mécanique 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
traverse over three sides and exit in orange n°29.
76	Les Cratères 6b+	traverse frtl / wall	-
on the boulder with red n°16 and red n°17. Low start under orange n°35, traverse under red n°16 and exit in red n°17.
77	Parafine 7a	sitstart / traverse fltr / crimps	Bernard Théret
20m to the left of red n°17. Sitstart underneath the jug, traverse to the right with crimps, and exit at the arete.
78	Sous-Bois 4-	wall	-
on the boulder 20m to the left of red n°17.
79	Sans Bruit 6a+	traverse frtl	-
on the backside of the boulder with yellow n°19 and yellow n°20. Start at the angle, traverse to the left and exit onthe step. There and back is 6b+.
80	Mardi Gras / Radio Crochet 7a	sitstart / pillar	-
sitstart at the angle, and exit directly (or in red n°21 with a left traverse). NB : the low traverse is called Poulaga Run.
81	Poulaga Run 7a+	traverse frtl / wall	Blokeur / Gilles Cottray
sitstart at the angle, low traverse to the left and exit in red n°22 (opened in 1995 and rediscovered later with a middle traverse). NB : the traverse with the upper holds is called Mardi Gras.
82	Boule de Nerfs 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging	-
red triangle to the right of the boulder of red n°20.
83	La Dérive 5+	wall	-
on the boulder 15m to the opposite of in red n°25 and red n°26.
84	Les Croix des Croisés 5+ (6a)	traverse fltr	-
start 2m to the left of La Dérive and traverse to the right.
85	Chasseur d'Ombre 6c	traverse fltr	-
traverse in red n°25 and exit in red n°26.
86	Double Face 7a	traverse fltr	Pascal Etienne
on the boulder of red n°25. High traverse and exit in blue n°44 bis.
87	La Super-Conti 7b+	traverse fltr	Pascal Etienne
start in red n°25, traverse low and exit in blue n°44.
88a	Pression à Chaud 6b	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start in red n°28, traverse to the right without the good holds on the top (blue n°42 fltr) and exit 1m50 further to the right via a bidoigt and edges.
89	Mouvement de Panique 7a+	traverse frtl / crimps	Bernard Théret
start at the arete to the right of red n°29; exit in Kaki Dehors (red n°29 bis). NB : it is also possible to exit via Mangou (with an equivalent difficulty).
90	Mouvements Syncopés 7b+ (7c)	traverse frtl	Pascal Etienne / Bernard Théret
start as for Mouvement de Panique, but exit left after the angle; morpho.
91	Le Grattoir 5 (6a)	wall	-
to the right of red n°29.
92	Balade Nocturne 7a	traverse fltr / crimps	Régis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
on the boulder of red n°29. Start to the left of the arete, low traverse on crimps and exit in Kaki Dehors (red n°29 bis). NB : it is also possible to continue to traverse till the end of red n°29.
93	Le Rebord 6a	wall / arete	-
at the angle to the left of Kaki Dehors (red n°29 bis).
94	Mangou 7a	wall / underclings / crimps	Guy Loppé
direct wall on crimps and underclings in between red n°29 and Kaki Dehors (red n°29 bis).
95	Jolie Bouse 7a	traverse fltr	-
to the opposite of yellow n°10. Start at the left arete and exit at a yellow mark.
96	De Marbre 5+ (6a)	wall	-
in the middle of the face to the right of blue n°37.
97	Gros Bras 7c (7b+)	traverse frtl / crimps / sitstart	Alain Dupas
sitstart in Gros Doigts at the bottom of n°38 bleu, take the crimps of the traverse of P'tit Bras and exit in that one.
97	P'tit Bras 7b+	traverse frtl / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
start at the angle to the right of blue n°38, low traverse and exit via the crack.
98	Gros Doigts 7a (7b)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart of blue n°38.
99	Parabellum 7a (6c+)	wall / sitstart / crimps	-
sitstart to the left of blue n°38 with a good undercling, dyno on crimps and exit above.
100	Les Bons Plats 6b+	traverse frtl / slopers	-
on the boulder of blue n°39. Start to the right and traverse on slopers.
101	Retour de Manivelle 7a+	traverse fltr / pockets	-
back traverse of La Crise de l'Energie : sitstart at the left angle, traverse to the right, pass the angle of the exit of Glycolyse (red n°32), downclimb after blue n°14 and exit in blue n°14 bis.
102	Crise de l'Énergie 7a	traverse frtl / pockets	Pascal Etienne
variant of Crépuscule Lunaire (ex n°32 bis red, 6c+) : climb red n°32, but by staying low at the start, and exit via the second angle, above a small boulder.
102	Kéo 7a	dyno / sitstart	Régis Allayaud
behind blue n°16 bis, on the boulder of Perte de Contrôle. Doubledyno in between crack at the right and sidepulls left.
103a	Atome Crochu 7b+	sitstart / overhang	Thierry Guéguen
to the left of blue n°16. Sitstart and take an undercling right hand.
103b	Absinthe 7c	sitstart / overhang / dyno	Didier Gérardin
variant of Atome Crochu, without taking the sloper on the left.
104	Perte de Contrôle 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the backside of blue n°16. Start at the left angle with an oblique hold, low traverse and exit via a vertical crack.
106b	Dérapage 7b (7b+)	traverse	-
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°16. Start with the two hands on the oblique hold to the left of Atome Crochu, traverse to the left with the top holds, downclimb the crack, do the back traverse of Perte de Contrôle and exit via the left angle.
106b	Trace de Pneus 7b (7b+)	traverse / slopers	-
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°16. Start with the two hands on the oblique hold to the left of Atome Crochu, traverse to the left with the top holds as for Dérapage but continue on the ledge on slopers, downclimb the left arete to the beginning of Perte de Contrôle and exit in this problem.
107	Peau Lisse Man 6a+ (6b)	wall	-
start right hand on the ledge and left hand on a vertical hold.
108	Le Sens à Scion 3+ (4-)	arete	-
angle with the right face.
109	Mise en Suif 6a+ (6b)	sitstart	-
blue arrow.
110	Le Temple Perdu 6b	traverse frtl	-
start at the angle, traverse in the left face, pass the angle andexit in the middle of the second face.
111	Jardin d'Enfants 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl	-
start in yellow n°5 and low traverse to the left.
112	Starting Bloc 6a	sitstart	-
start at the point and exit directly.
113	Les Nains dans les Poches 6b	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
low traverse to the left.
114	Planète Canche 4 (4+)	wall	-
on the face to the left of yellow n°44.
115	Tortum 5	wall	-
n the boulder facing yellow n°44.
116	Lumière Vive 6a	wall	-
to the left of Tortum.
		Outside the topo
Crépuscule Lunaire 6c+		traverse frtl / pockets	-
prolongation of red n°32 : go up at the start, pass the exit of Glycolyse (red n°32) and finish in the second angle, above a small boulder.
L'Or et l'Ail 7c		traverse frtl / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°23. Sitstart, low traverse to the left and exit before the angle, see the topo de la Canche aux Merciers. NB : opened in 1995; return traverse of Épaulard.
- 7a		traverse	-
on the big flat boulder facing blue n°38 (before red n°15). Start with hands on both sides of the crack exit 3m to the right of Le Grand Nez (7b+ start extremely left); see the topo de la Canche aux Merciers.
Jeu de Piste 7a		traverse fltr	Pepito
sitstart at the angle to the left of red n°23, traverse the four faces and exit in red n°24.
Égomoije 6c		traverse frtl / wall	Pepito / Bruno Riote
start at the arete of blue n°28, traverse to the left (back traverse of Mon Nom est Personne) and exit by a mantle at the end of the second face, see n°71 in the topo de la Canche aux Merciers.
- 2+		-	-
- 3		-	-
former orange n°19, after the chimney of orange n°18.
n°16 bleu assis 6a		arete / sitstart	Holger May
sitstart of blue n°16. NB : first known realization by Holger May.
Le Dictat de Lola 6a (6b)		sitstart	Blokeur
sitstart of blue n°20.
- 6b		sitstart / wall	-
sitstart of blue n°26.
Pleine Lune 6b		wall / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart at the angle and exit in Lune Rousse.
Lune Rousse prolongée 6c		traverse	Pascal Etienne
prolongation of Lune Rousse (red n°23) to the left; exit at the summital arete (morpho).
Les P'tits Moutons 6b		traverse frtl	-
behind red n°32.
Le Nez 6b+		roof	-
characteristic roof, on the boulder to the right of blue n°39 and blue n°38, see the topo de la Canche aux Merciers.
- 7a (7a+)		overhang / underclings / sitstart	-
sitstart either from the ground (7a+) or from the stone (7a), go to the small pocket on the arete and exit in Sortie des Artistes (red n°14).
La Dernière Marche 6c		slightly overhanging / arete / slopers	-
former exit of La Longue Marche, just left of red n°13 (see n°39 of the topo de la Canche aux Merciers). NB : the connection with the 7c problem is no longer possible since a big flake broke off.
La Vague droite 5		wall / sitstart	-
on the boulder to the left of red n°14. Sitstart 1m to the right of La Vague and exit directly.
Hollywood 4		traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart at the right arete, traverse with the slopers on the top of the boulder and exit in orange n°26.
Dégaine et Gaine 6b+		wall / pockets	-
on the left face of the arete of blue n°28. Start with the two pockets of the traverse of Mon Nom est Personne, take a crimp left hand, make a mantle in the left pocket and exit above.
Poisson Pané 7a		wall / pockets / dyno	Blokeur
on the boulder of blue n°27. Start to the left (sitstart is possible), traverse for 1m to a big pocket and exit above without using the right arete.
Spread your Wings debout 6b (6c)		dyno	-
standing start and make a big dyno 2m to the right of orange n°26, on the first face of the traverse of L'Angle Obtus.
Spread your Wings 6c		dyno / sitstart	Ton van den Berg
2m to the right of orange n°26, on the first face of the traverse of L'Angle Obtus. Sitstart and go immediately to the top from the starting edges.
- 4		arete / sitstart	-
sitstart 1m50 to the right of blue n°15, traverse diagonally to the left using the arete and exit in blue n°15.
Le Charingan 7b		prow / slopers / sitstart	Alain Dupas
sitstart of the prow just right of La Grande Marche.

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