Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Rocher Canon : Circuit black ED-

Rocher Canon : black ED-

Area description
From Paris, take the N7 and turn in direction of Melun at Le Carrefour de la Croix du Grand Veneur. Follow the D142 for 4km and turn at La Route du Lancer (large parking lot).
The sector is also easily accessible from the SNCF station of Bois-le-Roi by following the GR1 via La Route de la Perlure and La Route du Lancer (20 minutes walk).

GPS parking lot

N 48.463025, E 2.666148

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.460816, E 2.660767

Circuit description
This virtual circuit (and sometimes painted, as it is the case in Spring 2009) is located in a quiet sector of Rocher Canon. The most convenient access consists in following La Route du Laisser Courre and take La Route des Monts du Faÿ for 400m to the right at its crossing. The start of the circuit is then on a big boulder to the right. Most of the problems are traverses and it is also possible to reach them from the main area.

1	Nébuleuse 5	traverse fltr
	topo nº1; 4m long fingery traverse.
1 bis	Les Lunettes Noires 5+	traverse fltr
	topo nº1b; prolongation of Nébuleuse to the right, above La Route des Monts de Faÿ.
2	Le Trou Noir 5	arete
	topo nº2; on the boulder just left of Nébuleuse, above La Route des Monts de Faÿ.
3	Le Corps Billard 5-	traverse frtl
	topo nº3; eliminate 5m traverse on the backside of the boulder of Le Corps Beau, above La Route des Monts de Faÿ (see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
3 bis	Le Corps Beau 5	traverse fltr
	topo nº3b; above La Route des Monts de Faÿ.
4	Noir Désir 5+	overhang
	topo nº4; above La Route des Monts de Faÿ.
5	Les Fourmis Noires 4+	arete / slightly overhanging
	topo nº5; angle to the right of Noir Désir, above La Route des Monts de Faÿ.
6	Réglisse 6b	sitstart
	topo nº6; to the opposite of the former start of the yellow circuit.
7	Sans Issue 6b	traverse fltr / wall
	topo nº7; low 12m long traverse.
7 bis	Fatale Issue 6c	traverse fltr
	topo nº7b; start as for Sans Issue, but exit before the second arete.
8	Savon Noir 6a	traverse frtl
	topo nº8; without the arete.
9	Magie Noire 5+ (5)	traverse fltr
	topo nº9; eliminate at the arete.
10	La Noix Rôde 5+ (5)	traverse fltr
	topo nº10; 5m long traverse.
11	Nicotine 6c	traverse frtl / sitstart / mantle
	topo nº11; sitstart, traverse to the left and exit with a mantle.
11 bis	- 5+	wall / slopers
	topo nº11b; on the boulder to the opposite of Nicotine (black n°11).
12	Goudron 6a	traverse frtl
	topo nº12; 5m traverse.
13	Mine de Plomb 6b (6c)	overhang
	topo nº13; same exit as Idées Noires.
14	Idées Noires 5 (5+)	wall / crack / sitstart
	topo nº14; sitstart and climb the crack to the right. See also: Black Jack 6a
15	Les Instants Damnés 5	slightly overhanging / sitstart
	topo nº15; on the backside of Black Diamond, see n°15 bis of the topo of Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires". Two versions.
16	L'Olive Noire 6a	sitstart / wall
	topo nº16; on the left face of the boulder of Idées Noires.
16 bis	Black Diamond 6b	sitstart / wall / slab
	topo nº16b; start in L'Olive Noire and exit in the slab to the left.
17	Le Pruneau 6a	traverse frtl / sitstart
	topo nº17; possiblity of prolongation.
17 bis	Le Ramoneur 5	sitstart
	topo nº17b; sitstart in a pit and traverse to the right.
18	Les Ténèbres de l'Ouganda 5- (5)	traverse / wall
	topo nº18; either traverse or wall on the North face of the boulder of Toutancanon, see the topo of Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
19	Mort en Mai 6c	slightly overhanging
	topo nº19; 6c+ and 7a variants are also possible.
19 bis	Toutancanon 7b	traverse fltr / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
	topo nº19b; topo nº55; 30m to the right and underneath the roof of La Baleine. Start to the left, traverse above a small boulder and exit in Mort en Mai (black n°19).
20	L'Or Noir 6b	-
	topo nº20; underneath Toutancanon and the roof of La Baleine. Start near the crack of the yellow problem and exit directly.
21	La Fissure de la Baleine 5	crack
	topo nº21; left problem on the boulder of La Baleine (old red problem).
22	La Carie 6c	traverse frtl
	topo nº22; on the boulder behind La Baleine; morpho at the start.
22 bis	Lobotomie 7a (7b)	traverse fltr	Frédéric Remfort
	topo nº22b; topo nº56; on the boulder to the right of the roof of La Baleine. Two possible starting points; lichenous (April 2009).
23	Les Charbons 5	wall
	topo nº23; on the boulder behind La Baleine. A harder eliminate is possible.
24	L'Ami Noir 5	arete
	topo nº24; on the left of the boulder behind La Baleine.
24 bis	La Fissure de l'Ami Noir 4+	crack
	topo nº24b; crack with a black triangle just right of L'Ami Noir (black n°24), on the boulder behind the one with La Baleine.
25	La Pati Noire 6a	traverse frtl
	topo nº25; 5m long traverse.
26	La Cave de l'Oncle Tom 6c (6b)	overhang / expo
	topo nº26; black triangle to the left of Charleston, in the overhang of the Bivouac. See also: Charleston 6c
27	Le Nez Graisse 5	slightly overhanging
	topo nº27; slightly overhanging "floating" boulder.
28	- 5- (5)	slab / expo
	topo nº28; high slab on the starting boulder of the orange circuit.
29	Noir Zazate 6a	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstart
	topo nº29; short traverse in a slightly overhanging boulder to the opposite of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23).
30	Le Pain Noir 6b (6a)	wall	Pepito
	topo nº30; topo nº81; on the face to the right of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23). Direct wall to the right of La Yoyo (former red n°2).
30 bis	Les Mains Blanches 5	traverse fltr
	topo nº30b; to the right of La Yoyo (former red n°2).