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Rocher Canon : white ED+ (n°8)

Area description
From Paris, take the N7 and turn in direction of Melun at Le Carrefour de la Croix du Grand Veneur. Follow the D142 for 4km and turn at La Route du Lancer (large parking lot).
The sector is also easily accessible from the SNCF station of Bois-le-Roi by following the GR1 via La Route de la Perlure and La Route du Lancer (20 minutes walk).

GPS parking lot

GPS start of the circuit


Le Cadeau du Vent 7b (7a+)wall / slopersGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº1; on a boulder low on the hillside near the parking. (GPS: N48.462730 E2.664310)

Magifix 6c+overhang / slopersEric Létot
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 2 photos ] topo nº3; au bas de la pente, au dessus du sentier bleu.
NB : première réalisation connue par Eric Létot en 1991 (qui avait suggéré le nom "La Rallonge" pour cette voie).

See also: Magifix assis 7a

Lune de Fiel 7atraverse frtlMarco Dunand
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 19 photos ] topo nº5; start completely right, low traverse after the first angle and exit in blue n°22 bleu after the second angle. 6c+ with the high holds at the first angle. (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
See also: Lune de Fiel (gauche-droite) 7a+, Lune de Fiel en retour-aller 7b

L'Innominata 6c+wall / slopers
*****  [ 1 photo ] direct problem just right of red n°32.

Les Câlins de Kim 7aslightly overhanging / mantlePepito
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 9 photos ] topo nº14; to the left of red n°38.
NB : the start from the right via a traverse is called Cocaline (7b+).

See also: Cocaline 7b+

5 bis Cocaline 7b+traverse frtlGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 video ] topo nº14b; start 2m to the left of the angle, pass that one, traverse to the left and exit in the arete of Les Câlins de Kim (white n°5).
NB : the exit to the left by the slab of red n°39 is 7c (Benoît Faure).

See also:  [ 2 realvideos ]   [ 9 photos ]  Les Câlins de Kim 7a

Morphotype 6c+prow / sitstart
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº16; to the North of the area, two boulders to the right of red n°37.

Canonnerie 6ctraverse frtl / wall
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº19; start to the right of red n°37, traverse to the left, pass the round angle and exit in the second face.

Pot de Terre 6c+ (7a)dyno / slopersEric Létot
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº21; on the boulder with Crescendo (boulder to the left of red n°38).
See also: Pot de Terre assis 7a+

Beaux Mouvements sur Fond Sableux 6c+ (6c)sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau
***** topo nº23; sitstart at the exit of Crescendo.

10  Lévitation 7a+ (7a)traverse fltr / overhang / sitstartB. Forest
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] topo nº27a; sitstart entirely low left (7a without the traverse).
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 2 photos ]  Rocking-Chair 7a, Vagabond des Limbes 7b, Lévitation prolongée 7b+, Vagabond des Limbes rallongé 7c, Légende 8a, When Legend Dies 8b+, Le Voyage Éternel 8c

11  Sledgehammer 7atraverse frtl
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº30; on the boulder to the right of the roof with Lévitation. Start on the right face, traverse to the left, pass an angle and exit in red n°45.

12  Jour de Pluie 7boverhang / traverse fltr / sitstartGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº34; on the boulder of light blue n°27, to the left of the path leading to Lévitation. Sitstart to the left and exit on slopers.

13  Exposition Rétrospective 6c+ (6c)wall
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] topo nº47;
See also:  [ 4 photos ]  Exposition Rétrospective assis 7b+

14  Les Copains d'Abord 7aprow / sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau / Didier Gérardin
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº50; left of orange n°17. Opened by Grégoire Clouzeau (direct version by Didier Gérardin, 7a/7a+).

15  La Singlette 6b+traverse frtl
*****

16  Gainage et Dévers 6ctraverse fltr
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] exit via the arete.

17  Délivrance / Marquis de Sade 7a+wall / slabPhilippe Le Denmat
***** topo nº52; steep slab on the boulder of Le Cervin (light blue n°40).
NB : the obsolete problem named "Marquis de Sade" used a chipped bidoigt which has now been filled in again. Two methods are possible for "Délivrance", one of them being a 7a+/7b mantle. (GPS: N48.461530 E2.663250)


18  La Dénoyautée 7a+wall / crimpsDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 11 photos ] topo nº53; to the right of the path in direction of the start of the red circuit.

19  Nut's 7bslightly overhanging / crackOlivier Penel
*****  [ 7 photos ] topo nº62; to the right of 36.15 Power.

20  36.15 gauche 7a (7a+)overhang / dyno
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº63; dyno to the left from the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
See also:  [ 2 realvideos ]   [ 8 photos ]  36.15 Power 7c (7c+)

20 bis 36.15 Power 7c (7c+)overhang
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 8 photos ] topo nº63b; 7c+ with the sloper and without using the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
See also:  [ 2 realvideos ]   [ 3 photos ]  36.15 gauche 7a (7a+)

21  Fantasia chez les Ploucs 7a+overhang / slopersStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº70; right problem on the backside of the boulder with light blue n°1.

22  Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire 7a (6c+)pillar / highGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 7 photos ] topo nº74; on a boulder to the right of Full Metal Jacket (to the right and underneath the bivouac).

23  La Théorie du Chaos 7barete / overhangOlivier Penel
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº79; on the ridge, on the backside of the boulder to the left and beyond the bivouac (start of the red circuit). Sitstart is 7b+ (Grégoire Clouzeau). (GPS: N48.460810 E2.664030)
See also: La Théorie du Chaos assis 7b+

24  Chasseur de Prises 7aslopersPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 18 photos ] topo nº83;
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Chasseur de Prises assis 7c (7b+)

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