Bleau.info : Cassepot Roches Grises : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

From Fontainebleau, take the RN6 in direction of Melun. Park the car 800m after the descent, to the opposite of the race-course of La Solle, near La Route Forestière de Luxembourg. Take the blue path 4-3 for 200m; the first boulders are on the left (letter "C").

1	L'Oreille en Coin 6c	wall / crack	Pepito / Antoine Guyoneau
wall to the right of a tree, 120m to the South of the boulder marked "C".
2	- 3-	wall	-
left problem on the North face of the boulder marked "C".
3	- 5	wall	-
on the boulder marked "C".
4	- 6b	wall	-
just left of Casse-Pipe, on the boulder marked "C".
5	Casse-Pipe 6b	prow / expo	-
right problem on the North face of the boulder marked "C".
6	- 7b	arete / expo	-
to the left of Le Baroudeur, on the boulder marked "C".
7	Le Baroudeur 6c+	wall / arete	Philippe Le Denmat
just to the right of the arete on the boulder marked "C". (GPS: N48.439200 E2.693600)
8	Échappée Belle 7b	wall / slopers	Philippe Le Denmat
diagonal to the right of Le Baroudeur. Start with a pocket left hand and follow the ascending ledge with delicate friction foot holds. (GPS: N48.439200 E2.693600)
9	Petit Homme 5	wall	Pepito / Bruno Riote
just right of Échappée Belle, on the boulder marked "C".
10	La Rampouille 6a	wall	-
second problem to the right of Échappée Belle, on the boulder marked "C".
11	- 3-	wall	-
right problem on the South face of the boulder marked "C".
12	Le Bon Élan 4+	arete	-
angle de gauche sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en dessous du sentier bleu, juste après le bloc marqué "C".
13	- 5-	-	-
dalle de gauche sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en dessous du sentier bleu, juste après le bloc marqué "C".
14	- 5-	slab	-
voie centrale sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en dessous du sentier bleu, juste après le bloc marqué "C".
15	- 4-	slab	-
dalle de droite sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en dessous du sentier bleu, juste après le bloc marqué "C".
16	- 4	arete	-
angle de droite sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en dessous du sentier bleu, juste après le bloc marqué "C".
17	Patate Nouvelle 5+	slab	-
left problem along the blue path, just after the boulder marked "C".
18	- 6a	slab	-
right problem along the blue path, just after the boulder marked "C".
19	Grot'esque 7a+	roof	Stéphane Brette
in a pit behind Synapses, just before the boulder marked "D". Sitstart is 7b.
19b	Grot'esque assis 7b	roof / sitstart	-
sitstart of Grot'esque in a pit behind Synapses, just before the boulder marked "D".
20	- 7a	slightly overhanging / slopers / expo	-
to the left of Grot'esque, in a corridor.
21	- 4	-	-
right problem on the boulder just before the character "D", along the blue path.
22	- 5+	wall	-
left problem on the boulder just before the character "D", along the blue path.
23	Synapses 8a (7c+)	prow / high	Didier Gérardin
on the high boulder (6m) marked "D". Dyno right hand on a sloper, then left hand on a crimp and exit to the left. Caution : no descent being actually brushed (May 2009), it is recommended to downclimb the face to the right of the prow of Crampe in the Ghetto. (GPS: N48.439100 E2.694300)
24	Coïncidence 6a	arete / slopers	-
to the left of the 8a problem of Synapses, on the boulder marked "D". Caution : no descent being actually brushed (May 2009), it is recommended to downclimb the face to the right of the prow of Crampe in the Ghetto.
25	Crampe in the Ghetto 6c (7a)	prow / mantle	Antoine Sippel / Henri Dokoninck
standing start of the prow on the boulder marked "D", to the left of the one with Double Axel. NB : the back of the boulder being lichenous, it is recommended to downclimb the face to the right of the prow.
25	Crampe in the Ghetto assis 7a (7a+)	prow / mantle / sitstart	Henri Dokoninck
sitstart of the prow on the boulder marked "D", to the left of the one with Double Axel. NB : the back of the boulder being lichenous, it is recommended to downclimb the face to the right of the prow.
26	- 5+	wall	-
left problem on the South face of the boulder of Double Axel.
27	Bon à Tirer 6b	wall	-
central problem on the South face of the boulder of Double Axel.
27a	Pincho Wincho 7c	wall / slopers	Antoine Vandeputte
left problem on the boulder to the left of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproches. Start to the left of the prow of Déforestation with a pinch right hand and an undercling left hand and exit directly on slopers. NB : a sitstart is possible but it adds no significant difficulty.
28	Ondée 6c	wall	-
just left of Double Axel.
28	Ondée assis 6c+	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart in Triple Axel, change hands to take the undercling right hand and exit in Ondée.
29	Double Axel 7a+	arete / wall	Stéphane Brette / Stéphan Denys
on the angle of the boulder just past the one marked "D". (GPS: N48.439000 E2.694400)
29	Triple Axel 7b+	sitstart / wall / arete	Marc Le Ménestrel
sitstart of Double Axel. (GPS: N48.439000 E2.694400)
29b	Double Axel gauche 7a (7a+)	arete / wall / dyno	-
start with an undercling left hand and a pinch right hand, take a small vertical hold just under the sloper of Double Axel and dyno directly to the top on the left (exit hold of Ondée); morpho). (GPS: N48.439000 E2.694400)
29b	Double Axel gauche assis 7a+ (7b)	arete / sitstart / dyno	-
sitstart in Triple Axel and exit to the left by a dyno in Double Axel gauche at the same point of Ondée); morpho). (GPS: N48.439000 E2.694400)
30	Le Zazou 6a	crack	-
1m50 to the right of Double Axel.
31	Banzaï 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
right problem on the boulder of Double Axel.
31	Banzaï en départ bas 7a+	roof	-
on the boulder to the right of Double Axel. Low start on the small boulder on the ground (with both hands on an undercling) and exit in the overhang of Banzaï.
32	- 4	slab	-
small slab between Synapses and Le Pince-Genoux.
33	- 5	wall	-
on the South face of the boulder between Synapses and Le Pince-Genoux.
34	- 5-	wall	-
right problem on the high boulder between Synapses and Le Pince-Genoux.
35	Le Zèble 6a	pillar / wall	-
left problem on the high boulder between Synapses and Le Pince-Genoux.
36	Le Pince-Genoux 6b+	prow / expo	-
on the boulder marked "F".
36b	Pince-Genoux assis 7b+ (7c)	prow / slopers / sitstart	-
direct version of the high prow on the boulder marked "F".
37	- 4+	slightly overhanging	-
belly in a small corridor along the blue path, to the left of Panique Celtique, just after Le Pince-Genoux (marked "F"), 15m past Double Axel.
38	La Traversée de la Grappe sur Pitons 6c (7a)	traverse frtl / crimps	-
on the boulder boulder to the left of Panique Celtique, just after Le Pince-Genoux (marked "F"), 15m past Double Axel. Start in the corridor at a nameless 4c belly, low traverse under smooth underclings, pass the angle and exit in La Grappe sur Pitons.
39	La Grappe sur Pitons 6a+	slab	J. Arrivepas
on the South face of a boulder to the left of Panique Celtique, just after Le Pince-Genoux (marked "F"), 15m past Double Axel.
40	Brocéliande 6b (6c)	overhang / slopers	Alexis Allayaud
just right of Panique Celtique, on the backside of a boulder to the right of the blue path, in between the characters "F" and "G".
41	Panique Celtique 7a+ (7b+)	overhang / slopers	Alexis Allayaud
just left of Brocéliande, on the backside of a boulder to the right of the blue path, in between the characters "F" and "G". The grade depends on the start point, the problem being morpho anyway.
42	- 2	slab	-
left problem on the slab to the opposite of Radium.
43	- 2	slab	-
right problem on the slab to the opposite of Radium.
44	- 4	wall / arete	-
in the North face, underneath the blue path.
45	Secret Liquid 5	wall / slopers / mantle	-
left problem on the boulder to the left of Radium.
46	- 4+	wall / pillar	-
right problem on the boulder to the left of Radium.
47	- 4	slab	-
leftwards problem on the slab to the left of Radium.
48	Le Yatagan 5+	slab	-
just left of Radium, at the tree.
49	Radium 6a (6b)	arete	Pepito / Jean-Yves Rosz
angle right hand just above the path, at the entrance of a corridor.
50	- 5-	wall	-
left problem on the face to the right of Radium, above the path.
51	La Savonnette 5+	wall	-
central problem on the face to the right of Radium, above the path.
52	- 4	wall / pillar	-
right problem on the face to the right of Radium, above the path.
53	- 3	slab	-
on the backside of the boulder of Radium.
54	Pied Diddy 5-	slab / crimps	-
at the end of the corridor, in direction of the character "G".
55	- 3	slab	-
right problem on the East face of the boulder after the corridor, in direction of the character "G".
56	- 5+	slab	-
left problem on the East face of the boulder after the corridor, in direction of the character "G".
57b	Déforestation 7c+	prow / slightly overhanging / slopers	Cédric Chambellan / Antoine Vandeputte
evident prow on the boulder to the left of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproches. Standing start with a pinch left hand and exit on slopers. NB : a sitstart is possible but it adds no significant difficulty.
57c	Oppression 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Cédric Chambellan / Antoine Vandeputte
problem on the boulder to the left of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproches. Sitstart to the right of the prow of Déforestation and exit in the overhang.
58	Merci Didier 7b	slopers	Grégoire Clouzeau
to the left of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche, on the boulder marked "G".
59	Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche 7c (7c+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	Didier Gérardin
on the boulder marked "G". Direct start in the overhang and exit on the left (7c) or via the slopers of the right arete, towards Sacrebleu (7c+).
59'	Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche en traversée 7c+	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slopers	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder marked "G". Start completely right, traverse to the left (back traverse of Theo's Traverse) and exit in Sans Pofs et Sans Reproche.
59b	Bleu Sacré 8a+ (8b)	slightly overhanging / arete / slopers	Antoine Vandeputte
direct version of Sacrebleu, on the arete to the right of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche (boulder marked "G").
59b	Sacrebleu 8a	arete / slopers	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder marked "G". Start from the horizontal sloper of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche, take immediately the arete on the right and climb it "on horseback".
60	Au Pas Prudent 6c+	wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder marked "G" (boulder of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche). Standing start to the right of the arete of Sacrebleu.
61	- 3	wall	-
to the left of Patate Douce, on the right of the boulder marked "G" (boulder of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche).
62	Patate Douce 5	wall / mantle	-
right problem on the boulder marked "G" (boulder of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche).
63	Theo's Traverse 7a	traverse fltr / sitstart	Francis Hélias
alongside the sentier blue, on the boulder marked "G". Sitstart to the left of Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche, traverse to the right on the ledge and exit at the end of the second face in Patate Douce.
		Outside the topo
Rigaudon 6c (7a)		arete / expo	Manuel Marquès
to the left of the blue path, on the boulder marked "H", 100m after Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche. Right side of the arete to the left of the pillar of Hue. Do not use the holds on the left of the arete (the big step in particular).
Hue 7c		pillar / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
to the left of the blue path, on the boulder marked "H", 100m after Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche. Sitstart in the slightly overhanging pillar to the right of Rigaudon.
Burlesque 7a		overhang / slopers	Manuel Marquès
to the right of the blue path, 100m after the boulder marked "H", with Hue and Rigaudon, before the crossing with the Route Eugénie. Climb the belly and exit via crimps and slopers (morpho).
L'Enroulette 7a		overhang / sitstart / mantle	Manuel Marquès
just behind Burlesque, 100m after the boulder marked "H", with Hue and Rigaudon, before the crossing with the Route Eugénie. Sitstart to the right and exit directly.
Le Casse-Dalle 6b		slab	Pascal Etienne
slab to the right of L'Angle Trompeur, on a boulder 70m to the South of the character "C", towards L'Oreille en Coin.
Angle Doux 4+		arete	Pepito
angle right hand to the left of Le Casse-Dalle, on a boulder 70m to the South of the character "C", towards L'Oreille en Coin.
Angle Trompeur 6b		arete	Pepito
arete left hand to the left of Le Casse-Dalle, on a boulder 70m to the South of the character "C", towards L'Oreille en Coin.
Sursaut 6b		dyno / slab	Blokeur / Pepito
dyno and slab on the North face of a boulder to the West of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Étrange Pas 5+		slab	Blokeur / Pepito
right slab on the South face of a boulder to the West of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Pas Tranquille 5		slab	Blokeur / Pepito
left slab on the South face of a boulder to the West of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Mise en Forme 4-		wall	-
wall with nice shapes to the right of Mise à Plat, on the West face of a boulder to the West of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Mise à Plat 6b+		wall / slopers	Blokeur / Pepito
wall with nice shapes on the West face of a boulder to the West of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Drôle de Monde 6c		dyno	-
dyno to the right of Desdémonde, on a boulder to the South-East of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".
Bouche en Coin 4		arete	-
angle to the left of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m to the South of the character "C".
Jet de Fesse 6b		wall / pinches / sitstart	Blokeur / Pepito
sitstart of the wall with pinches to the opposite of Mise à Plat, 120m from the character "C".
Desdémonde 6c		dyno	-
dyno to the left of Drôle de Monde, on a boulder to the South-East of L'Oreille en Coin, 120m from the character "C".

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