Bleau.info : Gros Sablons Nord : Topo

This sector gathers the problems of the orange circuit n°2 and isolated boulders (mainly traverses) on the North hill of Gros Sablons.
From the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme, follow Le Chemin de la Vallée Close fo 1km up to a sandy area (with the 95.2 on your right and the monument on your left). Follow Le Chemin des Cassis for 100m to find the start of the orange circuit n°2. The most interesting traverses can also be found 100m further, near the intersection with the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons).

1Guet-Apens 6b+traverse frtlEric Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons), just above Le Chemin des Cassis.
2Haut et Court 7a (7a+)traverse frtlEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of the 25 bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons), 10m above the crossing with Le Chemin des Cassis. Start just left of the angle, traverse up to the underclings and exit at the top of the boulder.
2bCascades Blues 6ctraverse fltr / sitstartPepito
to the right of the 25 bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons), 10m above the crossing with Le Chemin des Cassis. Sitstart at the bottom of Haut et Court, traverse to the right with underclings and exit on slopers just left of the angle.
4Fille ou Garçon 7btraverse fltrEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 17 photos ] on the right of "le sentier des 25 bosses", above Haut et Court. Start completely left, traverse the three faces using slopers and pockets and exit via the arete on the right.
6Balade pour Manon 7a+traverse fltr / pocketsEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] on the big boulder behind Haut et Court, 10m to the right of the 25 bosses path. Low traverse and exit in the overhang via pockets.
7La Balade de la Vipère 6ctraverse fltr / arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Low traverse to the right as for Balade pour Manon but exit via the arete of La Vipère.
8La Vipère 7a+traverse frtl / arete / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Sitstart to the right, traverse (back of Balade pour Manon) and exit in the slightly overhanging arete.
9Les Orbites 6aslightly overhanging / bidoigt / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Sitstart and exit in the slightly overhanging wall with bidoigts.
11L'Arête des Cassis 5arete-
***** arete left hand on the backside of the traverse of Le Petit Monde, to the opposite of the boulder of La Vipère, to the right of the 25 Bosses path.
11bL'Arête des Cassis gauche 4arete / slab-
arete right hand on the backside of the traverse of Le Petit Monde, to the opposite of the boulder of La Vipère, to the right of the 25 Bosses path.
12Le Petit Monde 6ctraverse fltr / overhangEric Allayaud
 [ 6 photos ] 10m to the right of the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons). Traverse to the right and exit in the overhang.
14La Dalle des Cassis 4+slab-
slab (without convention) between the exits of Fille ou Garçon and La Vipère, to the right of the 25 Bosses path.
16- 5wall-
to the opposite of L'Océane, on the second boulder to the right of orange n°28.
17L'Océane 6atraverse fltr / overhangEric Allayaud
***** on the boulder to the right of orange n°28. Traverse to the right in the overhang and exit after the angle.
18Au Grès du Vent 7atraverse frtlEric Allayaud
*****  [ 16 photos ] on the boulder to the left of orange n°26, 20m above le Chemin des Cassis, before its crossing with le circuit des 25 bosses. Right to left traverse (30 moves) passing over a small tree. The reverse traverse is also possible (at least the same difficulty), as well as the there and back traverse (7b).
20Sensuelle et Sans Suite 6ctraverse fltrEric Allayaud
***** on the backside of the boulder of orange n°24.
21Être ou Paraître 6btraverse fltrEric Allayaud
***** on the boulder of orange n°23.
23Tricot Stérile 6a+traverse frtl / wallEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the right of orange n°20. Traverse to the left and exit in the wall.
24Ultime Esquisse 7a+traverse frtlEric Allayaud
*****  [ 2 photos ] sandy traverse on the boulder to the right of orange n°15 bis (circuit AD n°2), 50m above Le Chemin des Cassis.

 

Outside the topo

L'Enfer des Zombies 7c+ (8a)roofChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 2 photos ] beyond 95.2, follow Le Chemin de la Vallee Close till the end of the sea of sand, and go left diagonally up the hill via the GR. The boulder is just underneath the ridge to the right. (GPS: N48.388260 E2.536200)
Anachorète 7croof / crack / sitstartJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** in bivouac alongside the GR following the ridge in between the yellow and the orange circuit
Doliprane 6b+slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sitstart to the right of orange n°8.
Canyon 5crackYano Salaün
to the left of Obsidienne, 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Obsidienne 7b (7b+)pillar / crimpsYano Salaün
*****  [ 1 photo ] 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Obsidienne assis 7b+pillar / crimps / sitstartYano Salaün
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of Obsidienne, 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Le Bel Inconnu 6bwall-
 [ 1 photo ] 10m to the right and above Obsidienne, along a path that goes up the hill from the Vallée Close.

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