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Area description
Take the way out Chamarande on the N20, cross through the vilage of Chamarande in direction of Lardy and take a paved road facing the castle. From the parking lot, follow the railway for 350 to 500m. The area is also easily accessible by the RER C from the station of Chamarande (15 minutes walk).
GPS parking lot
| 1 | La Dalle P.O. (Paris-Orléans) 5+ | slab | |
| 2 | Le Dièdre de la Peur 5- | slab / dihedral | |
| left problem on the "Dalle P.O.". | |||
| 3 | Le Sémaphore 5 | wall | |
| marbled wall. | |||
| 4 | La directe du Cervin 5 | slab | |
| slightly expo. | |||
| 5 | Le Surplomb du Cervin 5 | overhang / crack | |
| slightly overhanging crack to the right of the tree. | |||
| 6 | L'Abominable Surplomb 5+ | overhang / mantle | |
| 7 | Le Fort par l'Y 5 | wall / mantle | |
| slightly expo. | |||
| 8 | L'angle droit d'Alex 5+ | arete | |
| 9 | La directe d'Alex 5- | wall | |
| slightly expo. | |||
| 10 | La directe Zavatta 5 | wall / mantle / slopers | |
| on the boulder underneath Le Portique; slightly expo. | |||
| 11 | La Dure à Cuire 5- | wall | |
| in the corridor facing "Le Portique"; without the right holds. | |||
| 12 | La Salade 5+ | slab | |
| to the opposite of Le Portique. | |||
| 13 | La Directe du Portique 5+ | wall / slopers | |
| développer PG sur la bosse et prendre les aplats sous le sommet. | |||
| 14 | L'Angle du Portique 5 | arete | |
| 15 | La Diagonale 5 | slightly overhanging | |
| diagonal in a slightly overhanging wall. | |||
| 16 | L'Arête du Singe 5+ | arete / expo | |
| to the bottom of the corridor underneath Le Rempart. | |||
| 17 | l'Insolence 5+ | wall | |
| to the right of Le Rempart; morpho. | |||
| 18 | Rythm & Blues 5+ | wall / monos | |
| fingery wall on the boulder to the right of Le Rempart. | |||
| 19 | La Toute Neuve 5+ | wall | |
| 20 | La Nouvelle 5 | wall | |
| 21 | La Cascade 5 | wall | |
| 22 | La Poutre du Bivouac 5+ | traverse fltr / wall | |
| traverse to the right in the wall over the Auvent Denise. | |||
| 23 | Le Dévers des Braves 5+ | slightly overhanging | |
| 24 | La Grande Hésitation 6a | wall | |
| slightly expo. | |||
| 25 | Le Diamant 5- | slightly overhanging / expo | |
| 26 | Fibre de Verre 5 | slab | |
| 27 | La dalle Icare 5 | slab | |
| 28 | Ma Nuit Bleue 6a | slab | |
| over a small boulder (former n°27 problem of the white ED circuit). | |||
| 29 | La Dédicace 5 | arete / crimps | |
| right arete. | |||
| 30 | Doc Excentric 5+ | crack | |
| rounded fissure (often wet). | |||
| 31 | Vieille Souche 5+ | wall | |
| attention aux ronces en sortie! | |||
| 32 | Coup de Pied 6a | wall / mantle | |
| 33 | Veni Vidi Vici 5+ | wall | |
| slightly expo. | |||
| 34 | Tintin au Tibet 6a | wall | |
| former n°33 problem of the white ED circuit, to the right of the boulder of La Cervelle. | |||
| 35 | La Brunante 5 | wall / mantle | |
| on the boulder to the left and underneath La Cervelle. Eliminate with slopers only is 6a. | |||
| 36 | La Cervelle 5- | wall | |
| marbled wall. | |||
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