Bleau.info : Gorge aux Châts : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

Follow the D387 from Milly-la-Forêt in direction of Arbonne for 3km, turn right at La Route des Grandes Vallées and use a small parking lot after houses 1km further. The first boulder can be seen 150 to the left of the path that begins at the barreer.
Caution : due to dwellings, it is very important to park the car near the barreer and not in front of the houses.

1	Le Ressort Titan 7b	overhang / slopers / sitstart	Bernard Théret
at the top of the hill, in the South part of the area (plot 102). Sitstart with a jug, take the good hold on the right, traverse to the left via slopers and exit completely left. Access : from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de Gorge aux Châts and take the blue path on the right for 150m. The boulder is along the path, just left of that one.
2	Machine Head 7b	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
at the top of the hill, in the South part of the area (plot 102). Start 1m50 to the left of the vertical crack, traverse to the right and exit via the crack and slopers. Access : from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de Gorge aux Châts and take the blue path on the right for 150m up to Le Ressort Titan. The boulder is 30m to the right of the path.
3	Chahutor 6c (7a)	arete / expo / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart at the arete at the right of the exit of Peter Pan and exit slightly left of the belly on slopers.
4	Peter Pan 7a	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
sitstart, traverse to the right, pass the angle with slopers and exit in the middle of the second face with a small crimp right hand.
5	Sur le Flanc 5+	arete	-
on the right angle of the boulder.
6	Plan de Vol 6b+ (6c)	wall	-
in the middle of the wall. Sitstart with the undercling and exit slightly to the right.
7	Premier Jus 6a+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
sitstart to the left with the two hands on the ledge, traverse to the right and exit on slopers.
8	Présomption d'Innocence 7a+	sitstart / roof / slab	Didier Gérardin
in the lower part of the area. Sitstart in a roof and exit in a slab without the right arete.
8b	Les Mains Pleines 6c+	overhang / sitstart / crack	-
sitstart as for Présomption d'Innocence but exit to the left via the crack.
8c	- 6b (6c)	sitstart / roof / arete	-
to the right of Les Mains Pleines and Présomption d'Innocence.
8d	- 4+	crack / slopers	-
exit of Les Mains Pleines, to the left of Présomption d'Innocence.
9	L'Ami Sanglier du fond 6c+ (7a)	overhang	-
sitstart on the right as for Le Pare-Dessus, low traverse and exit in red n°3. 6c from the cave.
10	Le Pare Dessus 7a+	overhang / traverse frtl / mantle	-
on the boulder of L'Ami Sanglier (red n°3), at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart to the right in the overhang, traverse to the left and exit via the angle or (slightly easier) by the slab.
10b	Pare Dessus dessous deux Suées 7c (7b+)	overhang / traverse	Tony Fouchereau / Olivier Gagneux
sitstart on the right with the jug, climb Le Pare-Dessus by its version along the arete, downclimb L'Ami Sanglier du fond, traverse to the right under the overhang and exit by a mantle above the starting point in Le Petit Pare-Dessus.
10c	Le Petit Pare-Dessus 5+	overhang / slopers / sitstart	-
on the boulder of L'Ami Sanglier (red n°3), at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart to the right in the overhang as for Le Pare-Dessus, but exit directly by a mantle on slopers above.
11	Ombrage (Arbuste Sacré assis) 6b+	sitstart / arete	-
sitstart of the arete of Arbuste Sacré (red n°5).
12	De la Vie dans l'Art 8a	traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
traverse the wall with Dalle Grise (red n°4) on crimps and exit at the angle of Arbuste Sacré (red n°5).
12	De la Vie dans l'Art par le Haut 7b+	traverse frtl	Tony Fouchereau
start to the right of the face as for De la Vie dans l'Art but, at the middle of the traverse, take the top holds and exit at the angle of Arbuste Sacré (red n°5).
13	Réveille Matin 6b	traverse fltr	-
start under the boulder, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°2.
14	Ron-Ron 7b (7a+)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
start with the two hands on slopers, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit in the slab via a mantle.
15	Le Mur du Feu 7a	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
start with crimps and take another one left hand high in the wall.
16	Neige d'Automne 7a	wall / slopers / sitstart	Eric Létot / Christian Roumégoux
sitstart in Lézard (red n°2) and exit via the round arete on the right. NB : this problem is misplaced in certain topos.
16b	Pokemon 7b+	sitstart / overhang / mantle	Olivier Lebreton
to the right of Lézard (red n°2). Sitstart in the overhang and exit in the wall via a mantle.
16c	Pokemon debout 6b+ (6b)	wall	-
standing start of Pokemon.
16d	Magneton 8a	prow / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of the prow to the left of Pokemon (common exit with Neige d'Automne). Direct start is 7c/7c+ (morpho) and 8a via Pokemon.
16e	Ajna 8b	traverse frtl / prow / slopers	Christophe Laumone
start at a crack to the right of Pokemon, traverse on the ledge and exit in the prow of Magneton.
17	La Grève des Nains assis 7a	sitstart	Pascal Etienne
to the North of Rubis sur l'Ongle. Sitstart below the roof of blue n°18 (without using the big holds of that problem) and exit in La Grève des Nains (red n°31). (GPS: N48.399258 E2.519852)
18	Finalité sans Fin 8a+	traverse fltr / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
low traverse of the wall behind Rubis sur l'Ongle and exit in Math Sout (red n°29).
19	Écaille de Roche 6c	wall	-
just right of red n°28, without its big hold.
19b	Double Jeu-té 7a (7a+)	dyno	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
doubledyno in Beginenette (red n°28), from the big flat hold to the ledge.
20	Gospel 7c+ (8a)	wall / crimps	Marc Le Ménestrel
to the left of Rubis sur l'Ongle, without the big hole for your feet, otherwise 7c+. NB : this boulder, exposed to the South (and recommended for cold seasons), has had a broken hold at the start (February 2011). However, the problem has been realized again by Manuel Marquès with approximately the same grade in February 2013.
20	Little Gospel 7b+	wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
to the left of Rubis sur l'Ongle. Start with the two hands in the big jug on the left, take a horizontal crimp, make a heel hook in the jug and exit as for the former version of Gospel.
21	Rubis sur l'Ongle 7b+	wall	David Rastouil
to the opposite of Cyclope (red n°25). (GPS: N48.399030 E2.519870)
22	La Consolation 6c (6c+)	arete / expo	Eric Létot
on the arete to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle (7a direct and 6c by using the holds of the exit of Rubis sur l'Ongle).
23	Travaux Forcés 6b	arete / high	Eric Létot
highball to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle.
24	Cerf-Volant 6b	wall	-
red triangle between red n°22 and red n°25.
24b	Pierre Vicieuse 7a	wall	-
to the left of Cyclope (red n°25). Eliminate to the opposite of Rubis sur l'Ongle : start with the undercling, take a round crimp right hand and exit directly.
25	Le Complet 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr	-
to the opposite of Rubis sur l'Ongle. Prolongation of Entrave : start at the red triangle to the left of Cyclope (red n°25), traverse to the right and exit on the other face in Golgotogratte (red n°21). There and back with exit by the red triangle is 7b+.
26	Entrave 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr	-
shortened version of Le Complet. Start in blue n°24, traverse to the right and exit in Golgotogratte (red n°21).
26b	Un Chat dans la Gorge 7b	traverse frtl	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start in blue n°24 and exit to the left of Crabe Volant (red n°22).
27	Plats de Saison debout 6b+ (6c)	arete / slopers / mantle	-
start in the overhanging arete to the opposite of blue n°25 and exit on the right via a mantle on slopers (exit to the left is 6a).
27b	Plats de Saison 7a (7a+)	arete / slightly overhanging / slopers	-
sitstart in the overhanging arete to the opposite of blue n°25 and exit to the right via a mantle on slopers (exit to the left is 6c).
28	Lait Caillé 6c	sitstart / overhang / crack	-
sitstart in blue n°27 and exit via the crack or in the slab.
28b	U.H.T. 6c (6c+)	sitstart / overhang / slopers	-
start as for Lait Caillé, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit in the slab.
28b'	Le Surplomb Lactique 6c	overhang / sitstart	-
on the boulder of blue n°27. Sitstart in the roof completely to the left as for Humérus Clausus with the two hands in a big undercling, climb up using the arete and the holds in the roof and exit in blue n°27 as for Lait Caillé.
28c	La Ritournelle 7a+ (7a)	traverse frtl / underclings / mantle	Manuel Marquès
small logical line situated just next to Maudite Arête. Sitstart in blue n°27, traverse horizontally with underclings and exit via the slab to the left (without using the arete to the right).
28d	Humérus Clausus 7b	overhang / traverse fltr	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
small traverse in the overhang to the opposite of Maudite Arête. Sitstart to the left of the overhang of blue n°27, traverse low and exit via Lait Caillé (the sitstart of that blue one).
29	Châts Man 6b (6b+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of Plats de Saison (boulder with red n°20). Start in the overhang and exit via slopers.
30	La Feuille 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl	-
start right and exit at the red triangle.
31	Un Mercredi Saint 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr / slopers	-
sitstart to the left, traverse to the right and exit via the angle on the top.
32	Maudite Arête 6b	arete	-
to the opposite of blue n°27, on the boulder and to the left of Sa Pelle au Logis.
32b	La Tour d'Ivoire 7c	arete / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
sitstart of Maudite Arête, to the opposite of red n°19 and to the left of Sa Pelle au Logis.
32c	Entre Milly et Deux 6c	wall	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
in between the crack of blue n°26 and the right arete.
33	Sa Pelle au Logis 7a	overhang	-
on the boulder to the East of blue n°27. Sitstart in the cave with two hands in the crack, traverse to the left and exit in the belly.
33b	Mr Hyde 6b+	overhang	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart as for Sa Pelle au Logis but exit directly via the central hollow.
33c	Dr Jekyll 6b	overhang / slopers / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart as for Sa Pelle au Logis but exit on slopers to the right of the arete.
33d	Variaspal 7a	traverse frtl / overhang	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start on the mushroom to the right of the arete, exit in Sa Pelle au Logis.
34	Anar'Chic 6c+ (6c)	wall / crimps	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
just right of Gigi (red n°19). Get to the top with two horizontal crimps (slightly morpho).
34b	Anar'Chic prolongé 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / wall / crimps	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start at the arete of blue n°28 (morpho?) and exit in Anar'Chic, to the right of red n°19.
35	Ric-Rac 7a (6c+)	arete	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
to the right of red n°19. Start at the red triangle end exit at the left side of the arete (6c+ otherwise).
35b	Rorqual 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / overhang	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start at the arete of blue n°28, traverse to the right (morpho?) and exit in Ric-Rac.
36	Main d'Œuvre / Coup de Sirocco 6a (6b)	wall	-
on the boulder of Gigi (red n°19), between two red triangles. Start with the undercling and exit using slopers.
36b	Coup de Sirocco gauche 6b	overhang	-
red triangle on the boulder of Gigi (red n°19), to the left of Coup de Sirocco.
37	Développement Gratuit 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart to the left of the big jug, take this one and exit via the slab
38	Pain de Grès 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
start to the left of the angle, traverse to the left and exit in the second angle.
39	Opéra Tchétchène 7a+	sitstart / arete / slopers	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart under red n°18 and traverse all the left arete to exit at the top (morpho and expo).
39b	Opéra Tchétchène raccourci 7a	arete / sitstart / mantle	-
sitstart as for Opéra Tchétchène, but exit via a mantle just before the arete becomes horizontal.
40	- 6c	dyno / underclings	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
doubledyno from the big undercling of Dallain (red n°17) to the top. (GPS: N48.398940 E2.520210)
41	L'Hérétique 5+ (6a)	arete	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
to the left of Dallain (red n°17).
42	Caresse Nocturne 5	traverse frtl / slopers	William Poirson
on the boulder 5m to the left of Dallain (red n°17). Traverse on slopers between the two angles.
43	Mars Attaque 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
partir main droite avec un prise arrondie en forme de demi-lune.
44	Le Campagnol 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr	-
start to the left, traverse to the right and exit in red n°15.
45	- 7a+	sitstart / slightly overhanging / underclings	-
sitstart with the underclings on the flat stone to the left of red n°13 and exit directly.
45b	- 7c	sitstart / slightly overhanging / underclings	-
sitstart on the stone to the left of red n°13 as for the nameless 7b, but traverse to the vertical holds of red n°13 and exit in this problem; morpho.
45c	Spanish Caravan 7b+	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Ivan Luengo
sitstart with the underclings on the flat stone to the left of red n°13, traverse to the left on slopers and exit at a small tree.
46	L'Accent 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl	-
start to the left of the angle, traverse with top holds and exit to the left of red n°13.
47	La Travassis 6c	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart in the slightly overhanging arete of red n°12.
48	Gris Souris 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
sitstart to the right traverse with the ledge and exit in red n°12 bis.
49	La Selle de gauche 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
left problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
50	La Selle du milieu 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
central problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
51	La Selle de droite 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
right problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
52	Un Franc du Kilomètre 7a	traverse frtl / overhang	Eric Allayaud
start extremely right in the wall, and exit completely left in Arachnée (red n°14). NB : a sitstart to the right of the overhang is also possible.
53	L'Exclu 6b+	wall / crimps	-
behind Arachnée (red n°14). (GPS: N48.398960 E2.520560)
54	Stormroc 7a (7a+)	roof / mantle	Bernard Théret
behind Arachnée (red n°14), on the backside of a boulder to the right of Un Franc du Kilomètre. Start with the two hands on the jug and exit in the wall on the right.
55	Katagena / Le Basculeur 7a+	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
from the centre of the area follow the sentier blue through a small valley, climb up for about 50m to find the boulder 10m to the right of the path. Sitstart on a rock and exit in the middle.
56	L'Escalier Dérobé 6b+ (6c)	arete / slopers / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on a boulder to the right of the blue path in the slope after the main sector. Sitstart in the angle and exit to the left.
57	Banquise 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
near the top of the hill. Start left, traverse on the ledge and exit via a mantle on the round angle.
58	Le Cerbère 6c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start just right of the tree and traverse the ochre face.
58b	- 5+ (6a)	wall / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Le Cerbère.
59	Piège à Loup 7a	slightly overhanging / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder to the right of Chien Errant. Start with the two hands on a horizontal crimp and exit via slopers.
60	Chat Percé 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the boulder to the right of Chien Errant. Start at the small angle of the left face, traverse on slopers, pass the round angle and exit 4m further on the top ledge.
60b	Chat Percé (version basse) 7b (7a+)	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	-
on the boulder to the right of Chien Errant. Start at the small angle of the left face, traverse on slopers, pass the round angle as for Chat Percé but stay low and exit at the end of the crimpsy wall.
61	- 6c	traverse fltr / slopers	-
traverse on two faces on the small boulder behind Chien Errant. Start on the left face, pass the round angle and exit completely right.
62	Drosophile 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
traverse to the right on three faces on the boulder to the left of Chien Errant. NB : it is also possible to continue in the fourth face to the starting point (same difficulty) or to do a there and back traverse (7b+).
63	Chien Errant 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
traverse on two faces on a boulder exposed to the South, 30m above Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts. Start on a stone, traverse to the right, pass the angle, continue on slopers and exit at the top of the arete on the right.
63b	Chien Errant prolongé 7b	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	Bernard Théret
start completely left as for Chien Errant but, at the end of the traverse, downclimb with crimps at the angle and exit on the right face.
63c	Chien Méchant 7b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start completely left as for Chien Errant, downclimb at the crack in the second face, traverse to the right for 1m50 and go up to the ledge as for Chien Assis, continue on the right arete, downclimb with crimps at the angle and exit on the right face.
64	Chien Assis 6c (7a)	sitstart / mantle	Bernard Théret
sitstart under the crack in the second face of Chien Errant, traverse 1m50 to the right to a good hold, climb the wall and exit via a mantle on slopers.
65	Lune Rousse 6b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start completely left, pass the angle and exit in a round crack or (slightly more difficult) in the overhang.
65b	Lune Rousse intégrale 6c (7a)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start as for Lune Rousse but exit completely right after the crack.
66	Vie Sauvage 7a	slightly overhanging / expo	Bernard Théret
low start on the right with an undercling, take a crimp and exit via slopers.
67	- 6b	pillar / slopers	-
round pillar to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, 20m past Vie Sauvage, just before a 7a+ traverse on a ledge.
68	- 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / slopers	-
to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, 20m past Vie Sauvage, just after a round 6b pillar.
69	Attrapeur de Rêves 7c	traverse fltr / slopers	Jean-Christophe Guibout
10m long traverse with a crux on slopers 40m to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, in the slope above a nameless 7a+ traverse. Start completely left, traverse a first face on crimps, pass the angle, take slopers and exit completely right at the top of the ascending arete.
70	Pareur de Pareur 6c	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Rémi Perinet / Gérald Coste
big overhang just above the exit of Attrapeur de Rêves and Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts. Sitstart on a small boulder, climb the overhang and exit by a characteristic bowl. NB : it is possible to escape to the left from the start (4b).
70b	Pareur de Pareur droite 7a	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Rémi Perinet / Gérald Coste
big overhang just above the exit of Attrapeur de Rêves and Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts. Sitstart on a small boulder, climb the overhang, traverse to the right without using the characteristic bowl and exit with a jug.
		Outside the topo
Et qu'ça Saute ! 6c		dyno / pinches	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
on the boulder with 27 blue??? (It is possible that it is in fact the same problem as the dynamic version of "Dallain").
Shaolin droite 7a+		roof / pillar	Manuel Marquès
roof with a direct start from its base at the north-east of the area, in the North face under the ridge past Katagena (5/10 minutes walk). Start in Shaolin and exit by the right pillar.
Wo Ping Shaolin 7a+		roof	Thierry Guéguen
roof with a direct start from its base at the north-east of the area, in the North face under the ridge past Katagena (5/10 minutes walk). Start in Shaolin and exit to the left.
Shaolin 7b (7b+)		roof	Ludovic Lefebvre
roof with a direct start from its base at the north-east of the area, in the North face under the ridge past Katagena (5/10 minutes walk).
- 2		-	-
crawl through bouldering problem with old red n°5 on a boulder next to the Sentier Bleu n°16 (3m to the right of Arbuste Sacré, the current red n°5).
Ascendência 8a (8a+)		traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
80m from Shaolin, on the South side of the plateau, 20m to the left of Les Paires Dodues. Access : follow the blue path from Sa Pelle au Logis; just before a characteristic roof, take a small path to the left for 100m along the crest. The traverse is 30m underneath a viewpoint on Milly-la-forêt.
Sans Toit 7a		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
in the small overhang ending by a vertical wall, 20m to the right of Shaolin, above Ascendência. Sitstart under the roof as for L'Arquéphémère, but traverse to the right on slopers and exit directly in the slightly overhanging wall.
Arque Toi 7b		roof / arete / crimps	Manuel Marquès
in a small overhang ending by a vertical wall, in the North face, 20m to the right of Shaolin, above Ascendência. Sitstart at the big pocket as for L'Arquéphémère, climb the roof towards the right pillar without using the wall on the right and exit by the right side of the arete.
L'Arquéphémère 7c		sitstart / overhang / wall	Christian Roumégoux
small overhang ending by a vertical wall, in the North face, 20m to the right of Shaolin, above Ascendência. Sitstart at the big pocket under the roof and exit directly.
Châts Man assis 7b (7a+)		arete / pinches / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Plats de Saison (boulder with red n°20). Sitstart with the right arete right hand, take a pinch left hand and exit above in dans Châts Man.
Les Paires Dodues 7a+		traverse fltr / slopers	Thierry Guéguen / Marco Dunand
short physical traverse in a slightly overhanging boulder 20m to the right of Ascendência, on the South side of the plateau. Start at an angle and exit via slopers.
Attrapeur de Rêves en aller-retour 7c (7c+)		traverse / slopers	Christian Roumégoux
there and back of Attrapeur de Rêves, 40m to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, in the slope above a nameless 7a+ traverse.
Les Joyeux Lurons 6b+ (6c)		slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Stéphane Carcone / Gérald Coste
sitstart to the right of red n°9 with the arete right hand, climb that one and exit either to the right of a good ledge (exit of red n°9, 6b+), or to the left with an undercling (6c).
L'Étoile de Mer gauche 7a+ (7a)		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Christian Roumégoux / Jean-Hervé Baudot
on the backside of the boulder of sur l'envers du bloc du red n°24 (boulder to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle). Sitstart with two small underclings as for L'Étoile de Mer but after having taken the arete right hand, go left and exit at a blue arrow.
L'Étoile de Mer 7a+ (7b)		crimps / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Elric Besnier / Pascal Gagneux
on the backside of the boulder of sur l'envers du bloc du red n°24 (boulder to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle). Sitstart with two small underclings and climb the prow directly (without touching the boulder on the back).
Le Bal des Pompiers 6c+ (7a)		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Patrick Lefaucheur / Thomas Cavallé
on a boulder just right of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, along the blue path. Sitstart at the left arete, traverse on slopers and exit with a good hold right hand.
Le Bal des Grimpeurs 7a+ (7a)		traverse frtl / slopers	Christian Roumégoux / Jean-Hervé Baudot
on a boulder just right of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, along the blue path. Start with the two hands on the right arete, traverse to the left and exit after the left angle. NB : there and back is 7b.
Le Bal des Pompiers en aller-retour 7b		traverse / slopers	Pascal Gagneux / Thomas Cavallé
on a boulder just right of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, along the blue path. Sitstart at the left arete, traverse to the right as for Le Bal des Pompiers, come back by Le Bal des Grimpeurs and exit after the left angle.
Un Morceau de Bio 7a (7a+)		mantle / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder 15m above and to the right of Plan de Vol, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart before the middle of the traverse of Biodiversité, make a foot hook on the left and exit by a mantle on crimps.
Biodiversité 7c		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Gagneux / Jean-Hervé Baudot
on a boulder 15m above and to the right of Plan de Vol, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart with a good hold completely left, traverse on slopers and exit just after the right angle. It is also possible to exit by a mantle before the angle (same difficulty).
Biodiversité retour 7c (7c+)		traverse frtl / slopers	Pascal Gagneux / Christian Roumégoux
on a boulder 15m above and to the right of Plan de Vol, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the angle, traverse to the left and exit on the round left arete.
Biodiversité en retour-aller 8a+		traverse / slopers	Christian Roumégoux
back and there of Biodiversité, on a boulder 15m above and to the right of Plan de Vol, at the beginning of the sector.
With Love 7a (7a+)		slightly overhanging / slopers	Artūras Volkovas
on the backside of red n°20, on the boulder of Plats de Saison. Start with a good hold right hand and a sloper left hand, make a foot hook and exit above in dans From Paris with Love.
From Paris with Love 7c+ (7c)		traverse fltr / slopers	Tony Fouchereau / Christian Roumégoux
on the backside of red n°20, on the boulder of Plats de Saison. Sitstart to the left with an undercling, take a tridoigt, traverse to the right for 2m50 on slopers and exit at the end of the face in With Love. NB : the boulder has been brushed by Arturas Volkovas.
Gorge Profonde 6c+		prow / slightly overhanging / mantle	Aurélien Sassier
overhanging prow 20m above Opéra Tchétchène, up the hill. Sitstart at the tunnel without touching the back boulder, climb the prow with a crack and exit by a mantle.
Loin de la Magnésie à Outrance 7b		roof / pillar / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on a quick-drying isolated boulder exposed to the West. Sitstart on the right under the roof, climb it, traverse to the left and exit on a small pillar.Access : from the main sector, follow the blue path passing along Katagena / Le Basculeur up to the plateau (small cross on a tree), take the right branch of the path up to the point of view and go down on the right for 100m.
La Chouffe 5-		mantle / traverse fltr	Erik Cammaerts / Dieter Foqué
on a small boulder 7m to the opposite of Un Franc du Kilomètre. Start completely left with a sloper left hand and a pocket right hand, traverse for 2m and exit in La Chouffe.
Mac Chouffe 5-		mantle	Erik Cammaerts / Nele Bellinkx
on a small boulder 7m to the opposite of Un Franc du Kilomètre. Start with a very small crimp, a look-a-like mono and the big footrail and mantle up above.
Café Chouffe 6a		mantle / slopers / traverse frtl	Kobe Bellinkx / Limbio A'pen
on a small boulder 7m to the opposite of Un Franc du Kilomètre. Start on the right with slopers, traverse for 2m and exit in La Chouffe.
Le Malfaisant 7b		pillar / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
in the North face, on the boulder and to the right of À l'Abri des Servants, 150m underneath Shaolin. Sitstart with a pocket right hand, traverse to the right and exit by the pillar.
À l'Abri des Servants 7b+		dihedral / slightly overhanging / pillar	Manuel Marquès
in the North face, 150m underneath Shaolin. Standing start in a narrow pit between two boulders, climb the right wall, take the dihedral and exit slightly left by the pillar.
Bonus Malus 7b		roof / wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
on the right of Shaolin, in the North face. Start in Tribulation but exit to the right of the pillar, by the vertical wall.
Tribulation 7b		pillar / roof	Manuel Marquès
pillar to the right of the principal wall on the right of Shaolin, in the North face. Standing start, climb the wall with a black (often wet) crack and exit slightly left of the pillar.
Tribulation rallongé 7b+ (7c)		traverse fltr / pillar / roof	Manuel Marquès
on the right of Shaolin, in the North face. Start in Abruti!, traverse to the right on the ledge of the roof (fragile holds) and exit in Tribulation.
Mûre Mur 6c		wall	Manuel Marquès
to the right of Shaolin, in the North face.
Cap au Pire 7a+		wall / arete	Manuel Marquès
characteristic pillar in the principal wall to the right of Shaolin, in the North face. Standing start under the dihedral, climb the wall to its left with slopers and crimps and exit by the arete of Abruti!.
Abruti! 7c+		pillar / arete / roof	Manuel Marquès
characteristic pillar in the principal wall to the right of Shaolin, in the North face. Standing start, mantle up on the first step, climb the roof with crimps and a fragile horizontal crack and exit above.
Je n'ai Jamais Pleuré 7a+		pillar / high / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
evidnt pillar to the right of the main wall of the North face, between Abruti! and L'Arquéphémère. Sitstart in the overhang, climb the pillar on its right, stuck the hands in a horizontal crack, mantle up and exit above.

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