Bleau.info : Gorge aux Châts : Topo



1Le Ressort Titan 7boverhang / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
at the top of the hill, in the South part of the area (plot 102). Sitstart with a jug, take the good hold on the right, traverse to the left via slopers and exit completely left.Access : from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de Gorge aux Châts and take the blue path on the right for 150m; the boulder is just left of the path, 15m after Machine Head.
2Machine Head 7bwall / crimpsBernard Théret
at the top of the hill, in the South part of the area (plot 102). Start 1m50 to the left of the vertical crack, traverse to the right and exit via the crack and slopers.Access : from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de Gorge aux Châts and take the blue path on the right for 150m; the boulder is 15m to the right of the path.
3Chahutor 6c (7a)arete / expo / sitstartBernard Théret
sitstart at the arete at the right of the exit of Peter Pan and exit slightly left of the belly on slopers.
4Peter Pan 7a+traverse fltrBernard Théret
sitstart, traverse to the right, pass the angle via slopers and exit before the second angle.
5Sur le Flanc 5+arete-
on the right angle of the boulder.
6Plan de Vol 6b+ (6c)wall-
in the middle of the wall. Sitstart with the undercling and exit slightly to the right.
7Premier Jus 6a+traverse fltr / slopers-
sitstart to the left with the two hands on the ledge, traverse to the right and exit on slopers.
8Présomption d'Innocence 7a+sitstart / roof / slabDidier Gérardin
in the lower part of the area. Sitstart in a roof and exit in a slab without the right arete.
8bLes Mains Pleines 6c+overhang / sitstart / crack-
sitstart as for Présomption d'Innocence but exit to the left via the crack.
8c- 6b (6c)sitstart / roof / arete-
to the right of Les Mains Pleines and Présomption d'Innocence.
8d- 4+crack / slopers-
exit of Les Mains Pleines, to the left of Présomption d'Innocence.
9L'Ami Sanglier du fond 6coverhang-
low start of red n°3.
10Le Pare Dessus 7a+overhang / traverse frtl / mantle-
on the boulder of L'Ami Sanglier (red n°3), to the West and lower than Rubis sur l'Ongle (near the parking). Sitstart to the right, underneath the overhang, traverse to the left and exit via the angle or (slightly easier) by the slab.
11Ombrage (Arbuste Sacré assis) 6b+sitstart / arete-
sitstart of the arete of Arbuste Sacré (red n°5).
12De la Vie dans l'Art 8atraverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
traverse the wall with Dalle Grise (red n°4) and exit at the angle of Arbuste Sacré (red n°5).
13Réveille Matin 6btraverse fltr-
start under the boulder, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°2.
14Neige d'Automne 7awall / slopers / sitstartEric Letot / Christian Roumégoux
sitstart in Lézard (red n°2) and exit via the round arete on the right.NB : this problem is misplaced in certain topos.
14bPokemon 7b+sitstart / overhang / mantleOlivier Lebreton
to the right of Lézard (red n°2). Sitstart in the overhang and exit in the wall via a mantle.
14cPokemon debout 6b (6b+)wall-
standing start of Pokemon.
14dMagneton 7c+ (8a)prow / sitstartTony Fouchereau
sitstart of the prow to the left of Pokemon (common exit with Neige d'Automne). Direct start is 7c/7c+ (morpho) and 8a via Pokemon.
14eAjna 8btraverse frtl / prow / slopersChristophe Laumone
start at a crack to the right of Pokemon, traverse on the ledge and exit in the prow of Magneton.
15Ron-Ron 7b (7a+)traverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
start with the two hands on slopers, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit in the slab via a mantle.
16Le Mur du Feu 7awall / crimpsBernard Théret
start with crimps and take another one left hand high in the wall.
17La Grève des Nains assis 7asitstartPascal Etienne
to the North of Rubis sur l'Ongle. Sitstart below the roof of blue n°18 (without using the big holds of that problem) and exit in La Grève des Nains (red n°31). (GPS: N48.399258 E2.519852)
18Finalité sans Fin 8a+traverse fltr / crimpsJean-Pierre Bouvier
low traverse of the wall behind Rubis sur l'Ongle and exit in Math Sout (red n°29).
19Écaille de Roche 6cwall-
just right of red n°28, without its big hold.
19bDouble Jeu-té 7a (7a+)dynoAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
doubledyno in Beginenette (red n°28), from the big flat hold to the ledge.
20Gospel 8awall / crimpsMarc Lemenestrel
to the left of Rubis sur l'Ongle, without the big hole for your feet, otherwise 7c.NB : exposed to the south (recommended for cold seasons).
21Rubis sur l'Ongle 7b+wallDavid Rastouil
to the opposite of Cyclope (red n°25). (GPS: N48.399030 E2.519870)
22La Consolation 6c (7a)arete / expoEric Letot
on the arete to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle (7a direct and 6c by using the holds of the exit of Rubis sur l'Ongle).
23Travaux Forcés 6barete / highEric Letot
highball to the right of Rubis sur l'Ongle.
24Cerf-Volant 6bwall-
red triangle between red n°22 and red n°25.
24bPierre Vicieuse 7awall-
to the left of Cyclope (red n°25). Eliminate to the opposite of Rubis sur l'Ongle : start with the undercling and take a round crimp right hand.
25Le Complet 7a (7a+)traverse fltr-
to the opposite of Rubis sur l'Ongle. Prolongation of Entrave : start at the red triangle to the left of Cyclope (red n°25), traverse to the right and exit on the other face in Golgotogratte (red n°21). There and back with exit by the red triangle is 7b+.
26Entrave 6c (6c+)traverse fltr-
shortened version of Le Complet. Start in blue n°24, traverse to the right and exit in Golgotogratte (red n°21).
26bUn Chat dans la Gorge 7btraverse frtlAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start in blue n°24 and exit to the left of Crabe Volant (red n°22).
27Plats de Saison debout 6b (6b+)arete / slopers / mantle-
start in the overhanging arete to the opposite of blue n°25 and exit via a mantle on slopers.
27bPlats de Saison 7a (7a+)arete / slightly overhanging / slopers-
sitstart in the overhanging arete to the opposite of blue n°25 and exit via a mantle on slopers.
28Lait Caillé 6csitstart / overhang / crack-
sitstart in blue n°27 and exit via the crack or in the slab.
28bU.H.T. 6c (6c+)sitstart / overhang / slopers-
start as for Lait Caillé, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit in the slab.
28cLa Ritournelle 7a (7a+)traverse frtl / underclings / mantleManuel Marquès
small logical line situated just next to Maudite Arête. Sitstart in blue n°27, traverse horizontally with underclings and exit via the slab to the left (without using the arete to the right).
28dHumérus Clausus 7btraverseAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
small traverse to the opposite of Maudite Arête. Sitstart to the left of the overhang of blue n°27, traverse low and exit via Lait Caillé (the sitstart of that blue one).
29Châts Man 6b (6b+)slightly overhanging / slopersBernard Théret
start in the overhang and exit via slopers.
30La Feuille 6a+ (6b)traverse frtl-
start right and exit at the red triangle.
31Un Mercredi Saint 6a+ (6b)traverse fltr / slopers-
sitstart to the left, traverse to the right and exit via the angle on the top.
32Maudite Arête 6barete-
to the opposite of blue n°27, on the boulder and to the left of Sa Pelle au Logis.
32bLa Tour d'Ivoire 7carete / sitstartSébastien Frigault
sitstart of Maudite Arête, to the opposite of red n°19 and to the left of Sa Pelle au Logis.
32cEntre Milly et Deux 6cwallAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
in between the crack of blue n°26 and the right arete.
33Sa Pelle au Logis 7aoverhang-
on the boulder to the East of blue n°27. Sitstart in the cave with two hands in the crack, traverse to the left and exit in the belly.
33bMr Hyde 6b+overhangAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart as for Sa Pelle au Logis but exit directly via the central hollow.
33cDr Jekyll 6boverhang / slopers / sitstartAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart as for Sa Pelle au Logis but exit on slopers to the right of the arete.
33dVariaspal 7atraverse frtl / overhangAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start on the mushroom to the right of the arete, exit in Sa Pelle au Logis.
34Anar'Chic 6c+wall / crimpsAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
just right of Gigi (red n°19). Get to the top with two horizontal crimps (slightly morpho).
34bAnar'Chic prolongé 7a (7a+)traverse fltr / wall / crimpsAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start at the arete of blue n°28 (morpho?) and exit in Anar'Chic, to the right of red n°19.
35Ric-Rac 7a (6c+)areteAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
to the right of red n°19. Start at the red triangle end exit at the left side of the arete (6c+ otherwise).
35bRorqual 7a+ (7b)traverse fltr / overhangAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
start at the arete of blue n°28, traverse to the right (morpho?) and exit in Ric-Rac.
36Main d'Œuvre / Coup de Sirocco 6a (6b)wall-
on the boulder of Gigi (red n°19), between two red triangles. Start with the undercling and exit using slopers.
36bCoup de Sirocco gauche 6boverhang-
red triangle on the boulder of Gigi (red n°19), to the left of Coup de Sirocco.
37Développement Gratuit 6a+ (6b)slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sitstart to the left of the big jug, take this one and exit via the slab
38Pain de Grès 6a+ (6b)traverse frtlBernard Théret
start to the left of the angle, traverse to the left and exit in the second angle.
39Opéra Tchétchène 7a+sitstart / arete / slopersAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart under red n°18 and traverse all the left arete to exit at the top (morpho and expo).
39bOpéra Tchétchène raccourci 6c+ (7a)arete / sitstart / mantle-
sitstart as for Opéra Tchétchène, but exit via a mantle just before the arete becomes horizontal.
39c- 6cdyno / underclingsAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
doubledyno from the big undercling of Dallain (red n°17) to the top. (GPS: N48.398940 E2.520210)
39dL'Hérétique 5+ (6a)areteAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
to the left of Dallain (red n°17).
39eCaresse Nocturne 5traverse frtl / slopersWilliam Poirson
on the boulder 5m to the left of Dallain (red n°17). Traverse on slopers between the two angles.
40Mars Attaque 6b+ (6c)wall / crimpsBernard Théret
partir main droite avec un prise arrondie en forme de demi-lune.
41Le Campagnol 6a+ (6b)traverse fltr-
start to the left, traverse to the right and exit in red n°15.
42L'Accent 6a+ (6b)traverse frtl-
start to the left of the angle, traverse with top holds and exit to the left of red n°13.
43- 7b (7a+)sitstart / slightly overhanging / underclings-
sitstart with the underclings on the flat stone to the left of red n°13 and exit directly.
43b- 7csitstart / slightly overhanging / underclings-
sitstart on the stone to the left of red n°13 as for the nameless 7b, but traverse to the vertical holds of red n°13 and exit in this problem; morpho.
44La Travassis 6carete / slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sitstart in the slightly overhanging arete of red n°12.
44bGris Souris 6a+ (6b)traverse frtl / sitstart-
sitstart to the right traverse with the ledge and exit in red n°12 bis.
45La Selle de droite 6bslightly overhanging / sitstart-
right problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
45bLa Selle du milieu 6bslightly overhanging / sitstart-
central problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
45cLa Selle de gauche 6bslightly overhanging / sitstart-
left problem on the boulder of Arachnée (red n°14).
45dUn Franc du Kilomètre 7atraverse frtl / overhangEric Allayaud
start extremely right in the wall, and exit completely left in Arachnée (red n°14).NB : a sitstart to the right of the overhang is also possible.
46L'Exclu 6b+wall / crimps-
behind Arachnée (red n°14). (GPS: N48.398960 E2.520560)
47Stormroc 7a+roof / mantleBernard Théret
behind Arachnée (red n°14), on the backside of a boulder to the right of Un Franc du Kilomètre. Start with the two hands on the jug and exit in the wall on the right.
48Katagena / Le Basculeur 7a+sitstart / slightly overhangingAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
from the centre of the area follow the sentier blue through a small valley, climb up for about 50m to find the boulder 10m to the right of the path. Sitstart on a rock and exit in the middle.
49L'Escalier Dérobé 6b+ (6c)arete / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
on a boulder to the right of the blue path in the slope after the main sector. Sitstart in the angle and exit to the left.
50Banquise 7a+traverse fltr / slopers / mantleBernard Théret
near the top of the hill. Start left, traverse on the ledge and exit via a mantle on the round angle.
51Le Cerbère 6ctraverse fltrBernard Théret
start just right of the tree and traverse the ochre face.
51b- 5+ (6a)wall / sitstart-
on the boulder of Le Cerbère.
52Piège à Loup 7aslightly overhanging / slopersBernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of the exit of Chien Errant. Start with the two hands on a horizontal crimp and exit via slopers.
53Chien Errant 7a (7a+)traverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
start on a stone, traverse to the right, pass the angle, continue on slopers and exit at the top of the arete on the right.
53bChien Errant prolongé 7b (7b+)traverse fltr / slopers / crimpsBernard Théret
start in Chien Errant and, at the end of the traverse, downclimb with crimps in the angle and exit completely right.
53cChien Assis 6c (7a)sitstart / mantleBernard Théret
sitstart under the crack, traverse 1m50 to the right to a good hold, climb the wall and exit via a mantle on slopers.
53dChien Méchant 7b+traverse fltrBernard Théret
start in Chien Errant, downclimb the crack, traverse to the right as for Chien Assis and exit at the top of the arete via slopers.
54Drosophile 7a+traverse fltrBernard Théret
traverse to the right on three faces.NB: it is also possible to continue in the fourth face to the starting point (same difficulty) or to do a there and back traverse (7b+).
55- 6ctraverse fltr / slopers-
traverse on two faces on the small boulder behind Chien Errant. Start on the left face, pass the round angle and exit completely right.
56- 7atraverse fltr / slopers-
on the backside of the boulder of Piège à Loup, to the right of the exit of Chien Errant. Start at the small angle of the left face, traverse on slopers, pass the round angle and exit 4m further on the top ledge.
56b- 7b (7b+)traverse fltr / slopers / crimps-
on the backside of the boulder of Piège à Loup, to the right of the exit of Chien Errant. Start at the small angle of the left face, traverse on slopers, pass the round angle as for the 7a version but stay low and exit at the end of the crimpsy wall.
57Lune Rousse 6b+traverse fltrBernard Théret
start completely left, pass the angle and exit in a round crack or (slightly more difficult) in the overhang.
57bLune Rousse intégrale 6c (7a)traverse fltrBernard Théret
start as for Lune Rousse but exit completely right after the crack.
58Vie Sauvage 7aslightly overhanging / expoBernard Théret
low start on the right with an undercling, take a crimp and exit via slopers.
59- 6bpillar / slopers-
round pillar to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, 20m past Vie Sauvage, just before a 7a+ traverse on a ledge.
60- 7a+ (7a)traverse fltr / slopers-
to the left of Le Chemin de la Gorge aux Châts, 20m past Vie Sauvage, just after a round 6b pillar.