Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Cuisinière Crête Sud : Circuit black ED+ (n°6)

Cuisinière Crête Sud : black ED+ (n°6)

GPS parking lot

N 48.411101, E 2.599111

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.410973, E 2.609261

1	Le Réta Gluant 6a	slopers / mantle

1 bis	Kilo de Margarine 7a+	traverse frtl	Emmanuel Ratouis
	to the right of the parking. Without the high holds in the last face.
2	La Mangouste 6a+	wall / slopers

3	Excalibur 7a (7a+)	pillar / mantle / slopers	Philippe Le Denmat / Emmanuel Ratouis
	climb the pillar directly and exit via a mantle on slopers on the round arete. NB : the right version is 6c since a hold in the right face has been brushed. See also: Excalibur droite 6b+ (6c), La Traversée d'Excalibur 7a+
4	Descente aux Enfers 6a	overhang / pockets

5	Beatle Juice 7a+	overhang / pockets	Emmanuel Ratouis
	low sitstart on the left, climb the overhang diagonally to the right and exit right without putting the feet on the right boulder. See also: L'Homme à la Dent Creuse 7b, Plus Fort que le Crabe 7b+
6	Santa Barbara 6a	slightly overhanging / slopers
	on the boulder to the right of Beatle Juice. NB : an old number 7 is also drawn.
7	Le Merluchet 6c	slab / crimps

8	Moondance 6a	wall

9	Blocage Mental 6b	wall

10	Le Pommeau Rédempteur 6a+	wall

11	Little Big Gueule 6c	wall / crack / mantle

11 bis	La Fête de Famille 7a	traverse frtl	Emmanuel Ratouis
	on the boulder slightly left and above the one with black n°7-11. Lichened (2005).
12	Rastatouille 7a	slightly overhanging / crimps / expo	Emmanuel Ratouis / David Rastouil
	on the boulder to the right of the one with black n°7-11. Start in a pit on crimps and exit to the left.
13	La Charognerie 6c+	wall
	start to the right of Rastatouille and exit above. NB : lichenous (June 2012).
14	Vautour City 6a	wall / expo

15	Erik le Rouge 6b	wall / expo

16	Le Kétil 6a	-

17	La Débonnaire 7a (7a+)	overhang / slopers / mantle	Emmanuel Ratouis
	start with the foot on the black point and exit directly via a mantle without the left crack and the big hold of La Récréation. (GPS: N48.409480 E2.608730)
18	La Récréation 7a	overhang / slopers / mantle	Emmanuel Ratouis
	to the right of La Débonnaire. (GPS: N48.409480 E2.608730)
19	No Teacher, No Guru, No Method 7a	traverse frtl / slopers	Emmanuel Ratouis
	above Poetic Champion Traverse and la Route du Renardeau. (GPS: N48.409300 E2.608340)
19 bis	Poetic Champion Traverse 7a	traverse frtl	Emmanuel Ratouis
	to the left of the Route du Renardeau. Version with high holds. Start to the left of the green part of the boulder and exit past the arete with pockets on the left (18 moves). See also: Poetic Champion Traverse (par le bas) 7b+
20	La Cochonnaille 6a	wall
	above La Route du Renardeau, just before the intersection with La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Central problem, just left of the arete of Jambon Volant (black n°21).
21	Jambon Volant 6b	wall / arete	Eric Létot
	above La Route du Renardeau, just before the intersection with La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Right arete on the boulder beside Paris-Chamonix. See also: Jambon Fumé 7a
22	Mosquito Coast 7a	slab / high / toprope	Emmanuel Ratouis
	on the other side of La Route des Gorges de Franchard, to the opposite of La Route du Renardeau; with rope. Lichened.
23	La Mouche 7b+	overhang / sitstart	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
	sitstart of black n°23, without arete.
24	Chimpanzodrome 6c	traverse frtl
	start with the good holds on the right; exit past the left arete (20 moves).
25	Le Bloc à Bacchus 6c	wall / slopers

26	Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin 7b+	overhang / expo	Didier Gérardin / Eric Létot
	overhang exposed to the south above la Route des Gorges de Franchard.
27	Le Gazomètre 6a	wall

28	Barbatruc 7b	wall / dyno	Emmanuel Ratouis
	slightly overhanging wall before Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin, when coming from la Route des Buttes de Fontainebleau.
29	Le Thermomètre 6a	-

30	De Fil en Aiguille 6c (6c+)	arete
	in the North face, in the slope above La Route Amédée, 40m before La Châtaigne. Start with the arete left hand, climb that one using the vertical crack of the face and exit at the top of the boulder.
31	La Jolie Bouse 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers

32	La Châtaigne 7a	overhang	Philippe Le Denmat
	to the left of La Teigne, above Duel.
33	La Teigne 7b	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
	above Duel. 7a before undercling broke off. (GPS: N48.408260 E2.611070)
34	Duel 8a	slab / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
	above La Route Amédée, in the direction of Franchard Meyer. Update : broken foot hold (november 2004). (GPS: N48.408300 E2.611480) See also: Duel direct 8a+