Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Cuvier : Circuit white ED+ (n°5)

Cuvier : white ED+ (n°5)

Area description

This very popular and accessible area is situated alongside the N7 (the road between Fontainebleau and Barbizon), 1 kilometer away from (the bivouac of) Barbizon. Park at the big parking lots of the Carrefour de l'Épine, available at both sides of the road. A pedestrian tunnel is available to get you to the other side of the road, if you are coming from Barbizon; you can't make a U-turn on the road here. The first boulders are already visible from the road.

GPS parking lots

N 48.446000, E 2.637430 (Fontainebleau => Paris)
N 48.445100, E 2.637300 (Paris => Fontainebleau)

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.446540, E 2.637770

1	La Lili 6c	arete
	eliminate to the left of blue n°2 with only the crack.
2	L'Emporte-Pièce 6a	crack

2 bis	L'Aérodynamite 7b+ (7c)	prow / slopers / dyno	Jacky Godoffe / Jo Montchaussé
	evident prow just left of blue n°3 bis. See also: Aérosol 7b+, L'Aérodynamite assis 8a
3	Le Dernier Jeu 6a	slightly overhanging / crack

3 bis	La Ravensbrück 6b	wall / crack / slopers

4	La Charcuterie 6c+	wall / pockets
	morpho. Direct version with right hand pocket See also: Charcuterie 7a
4 bis	L'Angle Incarné 7b	arete	Thierry Bienvenu
	to the right of Le Tuyau Morin (blue n°9). See also: L'Angle Incarné assis 7b+ (7b)
5	La Boucherie 7a+ (7b)	overhang / underclings
	upgraded in 2004 from 7a to 7b, because the big undercling broke off. See also: Boucherie-Charcuterie 7b
6	La Défroquée 6c	slab	Robert Paragot
	immediately to the right of the arete of La Daubé (red n°9). NB : the first ascent was without pants... See also: Bizarre 6b
6 bis	L'Abattoir 7a+ (7a)	overhang	Michel Libert
	first 7a of Bleau (1960)
6 ter	Le Carnage 7b+	overhang	Jérôme Jean-Charles
	See also: Carnazina 7b+, Le Carnage assis 7c
6 quat	La Bérézina (L'Abbé Résina) 7c	slopers	P. Richard
	to the right of Carnage. See also: La Bérézina assis 7c+
7	La Résistante 6b	arete / high	Michel Dufranc
	on the right side of the arete.
8	La Forge 6c	wall / crimps
	vertical holds allowed to exit. See also: La Super Forge 7a
9	La Folle 6b+ (6c)	crimps / crack
	See also: La Folle Enclume 7a
9 bis	L'Enclume 6c	wall	Michel Libert

9 ter	La Rhume Folle 7a	wall / arete	Thierry Bienvenu
	direct angle, without the sloper to the left of the arete (6c otherwise). See also: La Rhume Folle gauche 6c
10	La Vie d'Ange 7a	wall
	without the high holds of blue n°18 at its left.
10 bis	La Dix Tractions 6c	wall

11	La Clé 6c+	arete / crimps

11 bis	La Tour de Pise 6c	wall	Michel Libert
	with the chipped hold in the marbre to the top. See also: La Tour de Pise directe 7b
12	La Chicorée 7a (6c+)	slab
	to the left of La Nescafé (red n°21), without the right angle; upgraded in 2000 from 6c to 7a, after the low foothold broke off.
13	La Joker 7a	wall	Robert Paragot
	usually done by crossing left hand.
14	Le Quatrième Angle 6c	arete / mantle	Michel Dufranc

15	La Stalingrad 6b	slab / high
	without the crack.
16	La Chalumeuse 6c	traverse fltr / crack

17	La Super Prestat 7b+ (7b)	slab / high	Jean-Michel Gosselin
	on the boulder of La Nationale (blue n°44); straight up, to the left of L'Ange Gardien. See also: Haute Prestation 7c