Bleau.info : Cuvier Ouest : Topo

This sector gathers old problems near the end of the blue circuit TD- "Philou" and recent openting in the South face. From the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier, the easiest access consists in following a small path parallel to the N7 and to continue diagonally to the right after Effet de Serre. The first two boulder are 100m further, where the principal sector can be seen up the slope, above and to the left of a big oak. It is also possible to come from Bas-Cuvier via Imothep but this access is rather complicated with crash-pads.

1	Jus de Paume 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / dyno / slopers	Thierry Gounelle
on the same boulder and to the right of Imothep, above La Gaule on the hill, beyond blue n°35. Jumpstart, exit left.
2	Imothep 8a	prow	Julien Nadiras
on the boulder to the right of Plats en Sauce. 8a for the small, 7c+ for the tall.
3	Le Vert Galant 6b+	arete / slopers	Philippe Le Denmat / Eric Létot
round arete to the right of Plats en Sauce, on the boulder of blue n°34 of the circuit bleu "Philou" n°4.
6	Figure Imposée 6c	arete	Loïc Le Denmat / Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of Un Toit pour Saigner (50m to the west of Plats en Sauce).
6	Picolotest 7a (6c+)	slab / crimps	-
direct version of the slab 12m to the right of Figure Imposée.
6b	Picolotest gauche 6c	slab / crimps	-
left version of the slab 12m to the right of Figure Imposée.
7	Un Toit pour Saigner 7a	overhang / dyno	-
to the left of Figure Imposée on the boulder west of n°37, 39 and 39 of the circuit bleu "Philou" n°4.
10	Évolution 7a	arete / slopers / sitstart	Cédric Chambellan / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder with two blue triangles, on the crest, just after blue n°50 when coming from Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart at the angle, climb the arete on slopers and exit at the top of the boulder.
11	- 6a	dyno	-
blue triangle on the boulder of Évolution, on the crest, just after blue n°50 when coming from Bas-Cuvier.
12	- 5	wall	-
blue triangle on the backside of the boulder of Évolution, on the crest, just after blue n°50 when coming from Bas-Cuvier.
16	Le Marcassin 7b+	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Pierre Délas
in the North face, on a boulder to the right of the exit of Écart de Conduite, between blue n°37 and Multipass. Sitstart completely left with horizontal holds, low traverse with crimps and exit just right of the angle.
18	À nos 33 Amis Chiliens 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / pockets / crimps	Tony Fouchereau / Gérald Coste
in the North face, on a boulder underneath the one with Écart de Conduite. Sitstart with two horizontal crimps and exit in the overhang without using the right arete.
20	Sobriété Heureuse 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (boulder to the opposite of Multipass and blue n°45). Sitstart at the left angle, traverse to the right, first low with crimps and then with the top holds on slopers, pass the round angle and exit by a mantle at the end of the facet.
20b	Sobriété Heureuse prolongé 7b+ (7b)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (boulder to the opposite of Multipass and blue n°45). Sitstart at the left angle, traverse to the right, first low with crimps and then with the top holds on slopers, pass the round angle as for Sobriété Heureuse, downclimb and continue to traverse up the second angle with a tree.
21	Les Répétiteurs Étalonnent 6b (6a)	wall / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the North face, on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (the boulder to the opposite of blue n°45 and Multipass). Sitstart in the middle of the face, climb the wall and exit above by a mantle on crimps.
22	L'Ouvreur Propose 6c	arete / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the North face, on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (the boulder to the opposite of blue n°45 and Multipass). Sitstart at the right angle, climb the arete and exit above by a mantle on slopers.
22b	L'Ouvreur Propose droite 6c	arete / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the North face, on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (the boulder to the opposite of blue n°45 and Multipass). Sitstart at the right angle, climb the arete up to the slopers, traverse to the right and exit in the right face.
23	Sobriété Heureuse retour 7b (7b+)	traverse frtl / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Écart de Conduite (boulder to the opposite of Multipass and blue n°45). Standing start at the right angle with a good hold, traverse a first face, pass a round angle, make the back traverse of Sobriété Heureuse, downclimb at the left angle and exit by a mantle above.
24	- 4	wall	-
blue triangle at the beginning of the traverse of Écart de Conduite, on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°45.
25	Écart de Conduite 7a	traverse fltr / underclings	-
6m long traverse on the boulder to the opposite of Multipass and blue n°45. Start completely left at a bis blue arrow, traverse to the right using underclings and exit in the wall before the arete. Access : from the parking lot of Bas Cuvier, go up the slope, pass Imothep and follow a small path for 150 à 200m along the crest; the boulder is just in the descent.
26	Multipass 7b	wall / arete / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat / Loïc Le Denmat
to the right of 46 blue of the blue circuit "Philou" n°4. Access : from the parking lot of Bas Cuvier, go up the slope, pass Imothep and follow a small path for 150 à 200m along the crest; the boulder is just in the descent.
26b	Multipass en traversée 7c (7b)	wall / arete / crimps	Tony Fouchereau
standing start in blue n°45, traverser to the left, downclimb with a crimp up to the start of Multipass and exit in that one.
29	- 5	traverse fltr	-
blue triangle on the left face of the boulder of blue n°43.
30	Comme un Petit Animal 7b (7b+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pierre Duroché / Brendan Pacquentin
sitstart of the small prow just left of blue n°43, at a tree.
30	Comme un Petit Animal debout 6b (6b+)	prow	Tony Fouchereau / Gérald Coste
standing start of the small prow just left of blue n°43, at a tree.
31	La Miette 5+	arete / slopers	J. Arrivepas / C. Morpho
between blue n°43 and The Game, on a boulder on the crest.
32	The Game 6c (6c+)	wall / slopers / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Pierre Délas
central problem on the South face of the boulder of blue n°43. Sitstart to the right of a good hold (a foot hook is possible) and exit directly on slopers without using the crack.
33	L'Immortel 7b (7a+)	arete / dyno	François-Xavier Joubert / Guillaume Tournus
right arete on the South face of the boulder of blue n°43. Low start (against the back boulder) on and exit directly using slopers and crimps.
34	Le Précieux 7a+ (7b)	roof / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the South ridge, 20m to the East of the boulder of La Mue. Sitstart to the left of the roof, climb the overhanging arete on slopers and exit at the top of the boulder.
35	Gollum Connection 7b (7b+)	roof / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the South ridge, 20m to the East of the boulder of La Mue. Sitstart (without crash-pad) to the right of the roof as for Le Toit du Gollum, climb the overhanging arete, pass in the tunnel (without touching the back boulder) and exit in Le Précieux
36	Le Toit du Gollum 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the South ridge, 20m to the East of the boulder of La Mue. Sitstart (without crash-pad) to the right of the roof of Le Précieux, climb the overhanging arete for 1m50, make a foot hook and exit by a mantle above.
37	La Fissure à l'Anglaise 5	crack / sitstart	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
standing start of the evident crack on the boulder to the right of the one with La Mue (boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43).
37	La Fissure à l'Anglaise assis 5+ (6a)	crack	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of the evident crack on the boulder to the right of the one with La Mue (boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43). Sitstart to the left of the crack and exit directly.
38	Tour à l'Anglaise 4 (5)	arete	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
left arete on the boulder to the right of the one with La Mue (boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43).
39	Peau de Serpent 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr / arete / mantle	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Standing start with the right hand at the top of the left crack, traverse to the right with the cracks and exit by a mantle after the right angle.
39b	Peau de Serpent rallongé 7c+ (8a)	traverse fltr / slopers / arete	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the left angle as for La Mue assis, traverse to the right on slopers, make a big move towards the crack, continue along the cracks as for Peau de Serpent and exit by a mantle just after the right angle.
40	La Mue Fine 6c+ (7a)	mantle / slopers / sitstart	Jamel Mahrdi / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart 2m to the left of the right angle, take a pinch and exit by a mantle on slopers above.
41	La Mue Reine 6c+ (7a)	mantle / slopers	Christophe Grelaud / Jarno Zwiebel
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Standing start with the right hand at the top of the left crack and exit by a mantle above.
41	La Mue Reine en traversée 7a	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Jamel Mahrdi
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the right angle, traverse with the cracks and exit by a mantle above the end of the last one.
41b	La Mue Tante 7c (7c+)	arete / wall / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the left angle as for La Mue, traverse to the right on slopers, make a heel hook in the crack and exit by a mantle as for La Mue Reine.
41b	La Mue Tante assis 7c+ (8a)	slopers / arete / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the left angle as for La Mue assis, traverse to the right on slopers, make a heel hook in the crack and exit by a mantle as for La Mue Reine.
42	La Mue 7a (7a+)	arete / slopers	Pierre Délas / Jarno Zwiebel
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Standing start at the left angle and exit directly on slopers without using the round cracks of the left face.
42b	La Mue assis 7a+ (7b)	arete / slopers / sitstart	Pierre Délas / Jarno Zwiebel
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the left angle and exit directly on slopers without using the round cracks of the left face.
43	La Mue gauche 6b+ (6b)	arete / wall	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Standing start at the left angle and exit in the left face above a small tree, using round cracks.
43b	La Mue gauche assis 6c (6c+)	arete / wall / sitstart	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43. Sitstart at the left angle and exit in the left face above a small tree, using round cracks.
44	Déplacement Pendulaire raccourci 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Pierre Délas / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the left of the one with La Mue (boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43). Sitstart at the angle with a tridoigt, traverse to the right with crimps and slopers and exit in the corridor in front of La Mue gauche.
44b	Déplacement Pendulaire 7b (7c)	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the left of the one with La Mue (boulder with three characteristic oblique cracks, in the South face, 10m underneath blue n°43). Start at the left angle, traverse on slopers, downclimb to the start of Déplacement Pendulaire, continue in that one and exit in the corridor in front of La Mue gauche.
45	Balade pour un Schtroumpf 7b (7a+)	traverse fltr / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of blue n°47. Sitstart just right of a small boulder, traverse on the ledge and exit by a mantle just after the angle.
47	- 5	wall	-
blue triangle on the South face of the boulder of blue n°44.
49	L'Art est Plus Difficile 6c	arete / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Pierre Délas
left arete on the tagged boulder to the opposite of blue n°44.
50	La Critique est Facile 5+ (6a)	arete / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Pierre Délas
right arete on the tagged boulder to the opposite of blue n°44.
53	La Grotte Geneviève 7a	overhang / mantle / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
right problem in the pit of "la Grotte Geneviève" (painted inscription), 20m underneath blue n°44.
54	La Grotte Geneviève gauche 6b (6b+)	overhang / mantle / slopers	Tony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
left problem in the pit of "la Grotte Geneviève" (painted inscription), 20m underneath blue n°44.
56	Round Up 6a	wall / slopers	Jamel Mahrdi
on a small boulder with a tree below La Grotte Geneviève and 30m underneath blue n°44. Standing start and exit on slopers to the right of the tree.
57	Démoniaque 7a (7b)	overhang / mantle	Tony Fouchereau / Guillaume Tournus
central problem on a characteristic overhang 15m underneath La Grotte Geneviève. Standing startwithout the left arete, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle on slopers to the right of the top of the boulder.
57	Démoniaque assis 7c (7c+)	overhang / mantle / sitstart	Pierre Duroché
central problem on a characteristic overhang 15m underneath La Grotte Geneviève. Sitstart, climb the overhang without using the left arete and exit by a mantle on slopers to the right of the top of the boulder.
58	Les Cavaliers de l'Apocalypse 7a	arete / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a characteristic overhang 15m underneath La Grotte Geneviève. Sitstart, climb the left arete using the hold of the right face and exit by a mantle at its top.
60	La Traversée à Cent Dents 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Pierre Délas
10m after La Grotte Geneviève. Sitstart, traverse on fragile crimps and exit by a mantle completely right.
62	L'Introuvable 7b+	sitstart / arete / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
150m to the Nort-West of the end of the circuit bleu "Philou" n°4 and 100m from the N7. Sitstart to the right as for La Recherche du Père Tendu and exit via the arete. Access : find a cairn at the bottom of the sandy crest underneath the main sector, go to the North. the boulder is 30m after a blue strap attached to a tree.
63	La Recherche du Père Tendu 6b	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
150m to the Nort-West of the end of the circuit bleu "Philou" n°4 and 100m from the N7. Sitstart to the right as for L'Introuvable and exit directly. Access : find a cairn at the bottom of the sandy crest underneath the main sector, go to the North. the boulder is 30m after a blue strap attached to a tree.
64	Saillie en Bière 7a	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
150m to the Nort-West of the end of the circuit bleu "Philou" n°4 and 100m from the N7, to the opposite of L'Introuvable. Sitstart, traverse to the right for 1m50, take an undercling and exit on slopers above a small boulder. Access : find a cairn at the bottom of the sandy crest underneath the main sector, go to the North. the boulder is 30m after a blue strap attached to a tree.
68	Dark Vador 7a (6c+)	traverse frtl / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart in the pit on the right of the overhang with the two hands in the crack, traverse to the left and exit in La Fissure Vador. NB : a conventional lying start to the right of the crack is also possible (7a+).
68b	Dark Vador en aller-retour 7a (7a+)	traverse / mantle / sitstart	Jamel Mahrdi
in a small roof at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart in the pit on the right of the overhang with the two hands in the crack, traverse to the left, make the back traverse and exit above the starting point on a ledge with slopers and crimps.
69	Dark Vador raccourci 6c	mantle / traverse frtl / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart in the pit on the right of the overhang with the two hands in the crack, traverse 3m to the left and exit by a mantle on the ledge using a round prow.
70	Arque Vador 7a	traverse fltr / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart on the left of the overhang with the two hands in the crack, traverse to the right and exit at the end on a ledge with crimps and slopers.
70b	La Fissure Vador 6b (6c)	crack / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in a small roof at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart on the left of the overhang with the two hands in the crack and exit just above.
71	R2-D2 6b (6b+)	prow / sitstart	-
on a small prow at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart with a pocket right hand and a crimp left hand and exit directly.
72	R2-D2 gauche 6b+ (6c)	prow / sitstart	-
on a small prow at the bottom of the area, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart with a pocket right hand and a crimp left hand as for R2-D2 but exit to the left.
73	Skywalker 6c+ (7a)	roof / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
at the bottom of the area, 20m underneath Dark Vador, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart to the right of the overhang with underclings and slopers and exit on the other side on slopers.
74	L'Étoile de la Mort 7b+ (7b)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
at the bottom of the area, 20m underneath Dark Vador, 100m after Effet de Serre when coming from the parking lot of Bas-Cuvier. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with a vertical hold left hand, climb the overhang, traverse on the ledge with slopers, pass the angle and exit as for Skywalker just before the second angle.
		Outside the topo
- 4		traverse frtl	-
blue arrow on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°39.

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