Bleau.info : Areas : Rocher des Demoiselles : 7a and harder

Rocher des Demoiselles : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 47 straight-ups, 18 traverses
Topos: Rocher des Demoiselles (Jean-Jacques Naëls)

Chaise Longue 6c (7a)	traverse fltr / crimps	-
topo nº16a; start in orange n°24, traverse to the right and exit in the crimpsy slab just before orange n°28. NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the left angle if this part of the boulder is dry. See also: Siège Éjectable 7a+ (7a)
Miss Marple 6c+ (7a)	wall	-
topo nº26f; on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27). Start to the left of the tree and exit directly in the slightly exposed wall. (GPS: N48.379480 E2.670280)
La Grosse Bertha 7a (6c)	slab / crimps	Michel Grillère
topo nº38b; on the boulder with a characteristic prow in between orange n°3 and orange n°4. (GPS: N48.379380 E2.668740)
Méphisto 7a	wall / crimps	Pepito
right problem on the wall underneath orange n°15 and blue n°13, near the boulder marked "C".
Les Damoiseaux en Goguette 7a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen / Jean-Hervé Baudot
10m underneath Chaman, blue n°16 and the boulder marked "C". Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging wall with thin vertical cracks, take a pinch left hand and exit by a mantle on the ledge. See also: Le Retour des Damoiseaux en Goguette 7b
Atmosphère 7a	overhang / sitstart	Vincent Pochon
sector Beauté, on the top of the hill by following the blue path from Le Carrefour de la Beauté, on the second roof along the path, just past Nuits Zébrées. Sitstart under the roof and exit directly.
Jet d'Eau droite 7a	wall / dyno	Elie Chevieux
to the left of the boulder of blue n°13 (underneath the boulder marked "C"). Variant of Jet d'Eau with a dyno to the right. See also: Jet d'Eau 6b+ (6b)
Le Repos du Sphinx 7a	overhang / sitstart	Pepito
topo nº3b; above the start of the orange circuit, on the boulder of "La Tortue". Sitstart to the right and exit in Le Sphinx. See also: Le Sphinx 5+, Le Songe du Sphinx 7b
Anne-Cécile et Benjamin 7a	arete / sitstart	Pepito
topo nº32b; arete right hand on the boulder in between orange n°6 and orange n°7 (marked "N"). (GPS: N48.379150 E2.669060)
Chorizo 7a	wall / mantle	-
topo nº5b; 20m to the right of Le Sphinx; climb the wall with a crimp left hand and a small vertical crack and exit via a mantle, slightly left of the top of the boulder
Bof 7a	roof / slab / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
topo nº18a; to the opposite of Picator, on the boulder to the left of orange n°22. Sitstart in the small overhang, take a bidoigt and exit in the slab.
Coup de Genou assis 7a	wall / arete / sitstart	David Evrard / Aurélien Sassier
topo nº8a'; 30m above Le Sphinx, on the boulder to the left of Yé. Sitstart, climb the arete and exit in Herr Kalton Brunner. See also: Coup de Genou 6a
Haute Précision 7a	overhang / sitstart	David Evrard / Stéphan Denys
topo nº24a; on the boulder with the letter "E", in the small valley in between the main sector with the orange circuit and the one with the blue numbers. Sitstart in the overhang, take a vertical crack and exit directly. It is also possible to use crimps slightly left.
Crapovsky 7a	dyno	Marc Lehner
topo nº25a; on the boulder with the letter "V", underneath Haute Précision, in the small valley in between the main sector with the orange circuit and the one with the blue numbers. Dyno from the underclings and exit by a mantle on the left ledge. See also: Zamoyski 6c
Crampe Man 7a	wall / crimps / slopers	Grégoire Boursignon
topo nº4a'; just left of Rondeurs du Désir, on the boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx). Start with a crimp left hand and a pocket right hand and exit on slopers (without using the holds on the right by convention).
Popeye 7a (7a+)	arete / wall	Yano Salaün
topo nº15a; on the boulder of orange n°26, near the boulder marked "I"; variant on L'Olive using the right arete and the accessible holds of the crack. (GPS: N48.379400 E2.670100) See also: L'Olive 6c, L'Olive direct 7a+ (7a)
La Bonne Affaire 7a (7a+)	pillar / slopers	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
topo nº26l; just above the blue path, on the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27); start in the dihedral and exit via the round pillar See also: La Bonne Affaire assis 7b
Vintage 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps	Teddy Deschamps
marbled wall 1m to the right of Algotest, on the boulder of orange n°24 and orange n°28. Start with two crimps and exit with the crack on the left at the top of the boulder.
L'Olive direct 7a+ (7a)	crack / wall	-
topo nº15b; on the boulder of orange n°26 (near the boulder marked "I"). Direct problem without the big holds on the left (otherwise 6c). (GPS: N48.379400 E2.670100) See also: L'Olive 6c, Popeye 7a (7a+)
Sainte-Nitouche assis 7a+ (7a)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº10b; on the right in the overhang of Toit Tranquille. Sitstart to the left of the pit and exit by the round prow of Sainte-Nitouche. See also: Sainte-Nitouche 6b (6c)
Siège Éjectable 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
sitstart at the (often wet) angle to the left of orange n°24, traverse to the right and exit in the crimpsy slab just before orange n°28. See also: Chaise Longue 6c (7a)
L'Espoir Naufragé 7a+	overhang / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
topo nº35a; 15m underneath Lueur d'Espoir, to the right of orange n°3.
Requiem 7a+	traverse fltr / underclings	Pepito
topo nº22e; traverse of a yellow wall, on the boulder marked "G", near orange n°21; start at the left arete, low traverse with underclings and exit in the slab on the right or via the crack
Le Casse-Gueule assis 7a+	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard / Aurélien Sassier
topo nº22a'; to the right on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path. Sitstart with slopers and a jug left hand and exit in Le Casse-Gueule. See also: Le Casse-Gueule 6a
L'Éveil du Sphinx 7a+	prow / slopers	Laurent Darlot / Stéphan Denys
topo nº3c; prow just right of Sphinx, on the boulder of "La Tortue", above the start of the orange circuit. See also: L'Éveil du Sphinx assis 7b+

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