Bleau.info : Rocher des Demoiselles : Topo

thanks to Pepito

This low-drying sector has two circuits, of level AD and D respectively. Many new problems have been opened recently, completing old openings, along the orange circuit, and in the Western part, next to Le Carrefour de la Beauté.
Two accesses are possible, depending on the sector one wishes to visit. The easiest way is to park along the N152, 3km from Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau as for Rocher du Mauvais Passage, and to follow La Route de Valmy for 900m; the start of the orange circuit orange is on the right after the crossing with La Route du Champ de Manoeuvre. It is also possible to follow the N7 for 2km from Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque, turn right on the D63E and park the car 100m further. Difficult problems can be found in the sector Beauté along the blue path and this one can be followed up to the blue circuit and the end of the orange circuit.

1a	Les Fougères 4-	arete / slopers	Pepito
on the angle just before the start of the orange circuit, coming from La Route du Champ de Manoeuvre.
2a	L'Angle Pressé 5	arete / slopers	Pepito
on the round angle just left of orange n°1.
3a	Le Sphinx 5+	slightly overhanging / crack / mantle	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of La Tortue, above the start of the orange circuit. (GPS: N48.379980 E2.668750)
3b	Le Repos du Sphinx 7a	overhang / sitstart	Pepito
above the start of the orange circuit; sitstart to the right and exit in Le Sphinx. (GPS: N48.379980 E2.668750)
3c	L'Éveil du Sphinx 7a	prow / slopers	Laurent Darlot / Stéphan Denys
prow just right of Sphinx, on the boulder of "La Tortue", above the start of the orange circuit.
3c'	L'Éveil du Sphinx assis 7b (7b+)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Christian Merimeche
sitstart as for Le Repos du Sphinx but exit via the prow of L'Éveil du Sphinx.
3d	L'Envers du Sphinx 6b (6c)	wall	Laurent Darlot / Stéphan Denys
on the backside of the boulder of Sphinx. Direct problem with a low start at the dihedral.
4a	Les Rondeurs du Désir 4+	slopers	Pepito
on the boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx); sitstart is 5a.
4b	Les Mouches 3+	wall	-
on the boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx); sitstart is 5a.
4c	Les Copains d'Abord 6b	traverse fltr / pockets / slopers	Pepito
on the boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx). Start at the orange number and exit in Les Rondeurs du Désir.
4d	Le Foehn 5+	sitstart	Pepito
sitstart and go diagonally to the left, on the backside of the boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx).
5a	Coryza 6a	prow / mantle	-
20m to the right of Le Sphinx; start to the right of Chorizo with good holds and exit via a mantle on slopers at the top of the boulder
5b	Chorizo 7a	wall / mantle	-
20m to the right of Le Sphinx; climb the wall with a crimp left hand and a small vertical crack and exit via a mantle, slightly left of the top of the boulder
5c	Le Plat du Chef 5	slopers	-
on the second boulder to the right of "La Tortue" (boulder with Sphinx).
6a	Pearl Harbour 6b	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
on the right of the boulder, 30m above Le Sphinx, to the right of a small path.
6b	Le Jeté Sot 6c	dyno / mantle	Stéphan Denys
between Roulé Boulé and Pearl Harbour.
6c	Roulé Boulé 6a	arete / slopers	Pepito
on the round arete on the left of the boulder, 30m above Le Sphinx, to the right of a small path.
6d	Réta Mignon 4	mantle	Pepito
left problem on the boulder 30m above Le Sphinx, to the right of a small path.
6e	Misti 8c	traverse fltr / underclings	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder to the right of Les Guérilléros. Start completely left, low traverse to the right with underclings and exit on the right prow.
6e"	Misti Gris direct 7b	traverse fltr / underclings / dyno	-
non conventional (but morpho) version of Misti Gris, on the boulder to the right of the one with Les Guérilléros. Sitstart on an evident ramp, traverse to the right, take the undercling of Misti Gris right hand, but go directly to the exit of Le Jeté Sot by using a crimp.
6e'	Misti Gris 7c	traverse fltr / wall / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
on the boulder of Misti, to the right of the one with Les Guérilléros. Sitstart on an evident ramp, traverse to the right as for Misti but exit in Jeté Sot by a dynamic move from two underclings.
7a	Yé 6c	slightly overhanging / crimps	Michel Grillère
30m above Le Sphinx. Low start from the horizontal crack of the problem to the right of the boulder (6b otherwise).
7b	Les Promesses 6b	wall / crimps	Pepito
crimpsy wall to the left of Yé and 30m above Le Sphinx.
7c	Serenity Crack 5+	wall / crack	Pepito
30m above Le Sphinx. Second problem to the left of Yé; low start is 6b.
7d	Belle Prise 5-	wall / crack	Pepito
on the left of the boulder of Yé, 30m above Le Sphinx. Sitstart to the left is 6a.
7e	Les Noces 4	wall	Pepito
on the left face of the boulder of Yé, 30m above Le Sphinx.
7f	Les Guérilleros 7b (7a+)	traverse fltr	-
above Le Sphinx, 50m to the East of the start of the orange circuit. Start completely left, low traverse towards a horizontal crack and exit in Yé. NB : traverse with top holds is called L'Amusement (5c).
7g	L'Amusement 5+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Pepito
30m above Le Sphinx; sitstart and traverse to the right, with the top holds of the boulder of Yé. Low traverse is Les Guérilleros (7b).
8a	Coup de Genou 6a	arete / wall	Pepito
30m above Le Sphinx, on the boulder to the left of Yé. Climb the arete and exit in Herr Kalton Brunner.
8a'	Coup de Genou assis 7a	wall / arete / sitstart	David Evrard / Aurélien Sassier
30m above Le Sphinx, on the boulder to the left of Yé. Sitstart, climb the arete and exit in Herr Kalton Brunner.
8b	Herr Kalton Brunner 6c	wall / underclings	Michel Grillère
wall with an undercling, 30m above Le Sphinx, on the boulder to the left of Yé.
9a	Les Boules 5-	wall / expo	Pepito
50m above Le Sphinx; direct exit.
9b	La Quille 5+	wall	Pepito
left exit of Les Boules, 50m above Le Sphinx.
9c	La Fausse Dalle 5-	wall	Pepito
on the boulder of Les Boules, 50m above Le Sphinx; sitstart under the overhang is 6b.
9d	Home 7b (7b+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Pascal Gagneux
slightly overhanging prow 50m above the boulder of Le Sphinx. Sitstart on the right with big holds at the bottom of La Fausse Dalle and exit via the round prow.
9d'	Sweet Home 7b+ (7c)	pillar / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
sitstart to the left of the overhanging prow of Home with the two hands on oblique holds and exit in that one.
10a	Tri Sélectif 7a+	prow / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Gérald Coste
to the right of Sainte-Nitouche, 50m above Le Sphinx. Sitstart with a pinch left hand and exit directly via the round prow.
10b	Sainte-Nitouche 6b (6c)	prow / slopers / mantle	-
mantle on the round prow to the right of the characteristic overhang of Le Toit Tranquille, 50m above Le Sphinx.
10b	Sainte-Nitouche assis 7a+ (7a)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the right in the overhang of Toit Tranquille. Sitstart to the left of the pit and exit by the round prow of Sainte-Nitouche.
10c	Sweet Cave 6c	traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Sainte-Nitouche, to the opposite of the overhanging prow of Home. Start under Sainte-Nitouche, traverse to the right, pass under the boulder and exit to the right or to the left of an evident arete.
10d	Le Toit Tranquille 4-	overhang	-
central problem on the characteristic overhang exposed to the East, 50m above Le Sphinx.
10e	L'Angle du Toit 6a	slightly overhanging / arete	-
left angle on the characteristic overhang exposed to the East, 50m above Le Sphinx, without the holds of Le Toit Tranquille.
10f	Le Grand Fossé 4+	slightly overhanging / slab / sitstart	-
on the face to the left of the characteristic overhang exposed to the East, 50m above Le Sphinx. Sitstart and exit via the slab.
11a	Le Mur Jaune 6c	wall / crimps / high	Michel Grillère
high crimpsy wall on the North face of a boulder along a small path, 60m above Le Sphinx.
11b	L'Angle Jaune 4+	pillar / wall	-
to the left of Le Mur Jaune, on a boulder along a small path, 60m above Le Sphinx.
12a	La Décevante 4-	wall / slopers	-
round wall.
13a	Africa 6a	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
crimpsy wall to the right of a triangular face, 30m underneath the boulder of L'Olive.
13b	Amérique Latine 7a+	slightly overhanging / traverse fltr / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the left face of Africa, 30m underneath the boulder of L'Olive. Sitstart at the ramp in the center of the face as for Amérique Centrale, but traverse and exit by the right arete.
13b'	Amérique Centrale 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Alain Dupas
on the left face of Africa, 30m underneath the boulder of L'Olive. Sitstart at the ramp in the center of the face and exit with good slopers as for Amérique du Sud.
13c	Amérique du Nord 7b	traverse fltr / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen / Arnaud Ceintre
on the left face of Africa, 30m underneath the boulder of L'Olive. Sitstart to the left, traverse to the right as for Amérique du Sud, but continue and exit by the right arete.
13c'	Amérique du Sud 6c	traverse fltr / sitstart	Pepito
on the left face of Africa, 30m underneath the boulder of L'Olive. Sitstart to the left, traverse to the right and exit in the center of the face with good holds.
14a	Joie de Crocodile 6a+	wall	Pepito
underneath L'Olive (boulder of orange n°26). Start right and exit as for Sourire Jaune.
14b	Sourire Jaune 6b+	wall	Pepito
underneath L'Olive (boulder of orange n°26). Start left and exit as for Joie de Crocodile.
14c	La Scarlatine 4	slab	-
underneath L'Olive (boulder of orange n°26).
15a	Popeye 7a (7a+)	arete / wall	Yano Salaün
on the boulder of orange n°26, near the boulder marked "I"; variant on L'Olive using the right arete and the accessible holds of the crack. (GPS: N48.379400 E2.670100)
15b	L'Olive direct 7a+ (7a)	crack / wall	-
on the boulder of orange n°26 (near the boulder marked "I"). Direct problem without the big holds on the left (otherwise 6c). (GPS: N48.379400 E2.670100)
15c	L'Olive 6c	crack / wall	-
on the boulder of orange n°26 (near the boulder marked "I"); with the big holds on the left (7a/7a+ without). (GPS: N48.379400 E2.670100)
16a	Chaise Longue 6c (7a)	traverse fltr / crimps	-
start in orange n°24, traverse to the right and exit in the crimpsy slab just before orange n°28. NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart from the left angle if this part of the boulder is dry.
16b	Algotest 6b+	wall / crimps	-
along the blue path, on the boulder of orange n°24 and orange n°28, on the left of the yellow marbled wall; start with a crimp left hand
16c	Le Dièdre 4-	dihedral	-
right problem on the backside of the boulder of orange n°24.
17a	Le H 6a	prow	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of orange n°23 (boulder marked "H")
17b	Le Faux H 6a	wall	Pepito
to the left of Le H, on the boulder of orange n°23 (boulder marked "H").
17c	L'Éperon 6a	pillar / expo	-
to the left of orange n°23, on the boulder marked "H".
18a	Bof 7a	roof / slab / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
to the opposite of Picator, on the boulder to the left of orange n°22. Sitstart in the small overhang, take a bidoigt and exit in the slab.
19a	Banderille 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps	-
on the backside of the boulder of Picator, underneath the blue path, on the boulder to the left of orange n°22. Start with the arete left hand nd a low crimp right hand and exit directly.
19b	Picator 6c	arete / expo	-
underneath the blue path, on the boulder to the left of orange n°22. Climb the slightly overhanging arete and exit on the top (morpho).
20a	Amabilité de Façade 6b	crack / mantle / sitstart	-
evident crack on the backside of a boulder above Picator, just before the character "G". Sitstart, climb the crack and exit by a mantle.
21a	Les Marches 6b	slab	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of orange n°21, to the right of the one marked "G".
22a	Le Casse-Gueule 6a	wall / expo	-
slightly exposed wall, to the right on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path.
22a'	Le Casse-Gueule assis 7a+	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard / Aurélien Sassier
to the right on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path. Sitstart with slopers and a jug left hand and exit in Le Casse-Gueule.
22b	Les Traces derrière Nous 6b	wall / expo	-
central problem on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path.
22c	Zyva 5	wall	-
second problem to the left, on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path.
22d	Cheminement 4	wall / expo	-
left problem on the boulder marked "G", above the blue path.
22e	Requiem 7a+	traverse fltr / underclings	Pepito
traverse of a yellow wall, on the boulder marked "G", near orange n°21; start at the left arete, low traverse with underclings and exit in the slab on the right or via the crack
22f	Rive Gauche 5-	crack / pockets	-
direct wall in the middle of the traverse of Requiem, on the boulder marked "G".
22g	Yabon 5	pillar	-
pillar at the beginning of the traverse of Requiem, on the boulder marked "I" and "G"; exit to the right.
23a	La Fausse Arête 4+	slab	Pepito
right problem on the backside of the boulder with orange n°19.
23b	La Fausse Conque 5	slab	Pepito
left problem on the backside of the boulder with orange n°19.
24a	Haute Précision 7a	overhang / sitstart	David Evrard / Stéphan Denys
on the boulder with the letter "E", in the small valley in between the main sector with the orange circuit and the one with the blue numbers. Sitstart in the overhang, take a vertical crack and exit directly. It is also possible to use crimps slightly left.
24b	La Traversée du Dams 6c	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl	Damien Roguiez
on the boulder with the letter "E", along the blue path, in the small valley in between the main sector and the one with the blue numbers. Standing start in the overhang of Haute Précision, traverse to the left and exit via the overhanging prow of Le Sanglier.
24c	Le Jeu du Dams 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging / dyno	Damien Roguiez
on the boulder with the letter "E", along the blue path, in the small valley in between the main sector and the one with the blue numbers. Start in the overhang 1m50 to the right of the prow of Le Sanglier and dyno to the ledge.
24d	Le Sanglier 6b (6c)	prow / overhang	Michel Grillère
voie de gauche sur le bloc avec la lettrine "E"dans un petit vallon entre le secteur principal et celui du circuit bleu inachevé, au bord du sentier bleu, juste au dessus du Carrefour de l'Embrassade. Partir au niveau de la lettrine et sortir directement dans la proue surplombante.
25a	Crapovsky 7a (6c)	dyno	Marc Lehner
on the boulder with the letter "V", underneath Haute Précision, in the small valley in between the main sector with the orange circuit and the one with the blue numbers. Dyno from the underclings and exit by a mantle on the left ledge.
25b	Zamoyski 6c	dyno / mantle	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
on the boulder with the letter "V", underneath Haute Précision, in the small valley in between the main sector with the orange circuit and the one with the blue numbers. Dyno from the underclings and exit by a mantle on the right ledge.
26a	Trait d'Union 6a	slab	Pepito
just above the blue path, on the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27).
26b	Rock Collection 6c	traverse fltr / slopers	Pepito
just above the blue path, on the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27). Start at the arete right hand, traverse to the right and exit by the slab of Trait d'Union.
26c	Minnie Petite Souris 5+	slab	Michel Grillère
right problem on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27).
26d	La Dalle Orange 6a	slab	Michel Grillère
left slab (to the right of the tree) on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27).
26e	La Dalle Noire 6c	slab / crimps	-
direct left slab (to the right of the tree) on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27)
26f	Miss Marple 7a	wall	-
on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27). Start to the left of the tree and exit directly in the slightly exposed wall. (GPS: N48.379480 E2.670280)
26g	Le Satyre 6c (7a)	wall / slopers / mantle	David Evrard
to the right of La Dryade, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J", to the right of orange n°27; start with an ear-shaped hold left hand and a good crimp right hand, and exit on slopers
26h	La Dryade 6b	wall / slopers / mantle	David Evrard
central problem in the wall to the right of L'Embrassade, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J", to the right of orange n°27; start with a tridoigt left hand and an ear-shaped hold right hand and exit via a mantle on slopers
26h"	Rendez-Vous 8a	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
just right of La Dryade assis, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J". Sitstart withh two underclings and exit directly by a dynamic move without using the jug of La Dryade.
26h'	La Dryade assis 7b+	wall / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
to the right of Les Larmes and n°27 orange, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J". Sitstart in the overhang as for L'Embrassade assis and exit to the right in La Dryade.
26i	L'Embrassade 7a+ (7b)	wall	David Evrard
arete left hand to the right of Les Larmes and orange n°27, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J"; Standing start with two crimps (morpho) and exit via a mantle in the wall on the right
26i"	Ycar 8a (7c+)	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Emmanuel Gand
to the right of Les Larmes and n°27 orange, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J". Sitstart in the overhang as for L'Embrassade assis and La Dryade assis, take the jug with two hands and exit directly by a big dyno on a crimp (morpho). NB : grade to be confirmed.
26i'	L'Embrassade assis 7b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	David Evrard
arete left hand to the right of Les Larmes and n°27 orange, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J"; Sitstart in the overhang as for La Dryade assis, traverse to the left and exit in L'Embrassade on the right of the arete.
26j	Les Larmes 6b	arete / wall / slopers	Bruno Riote
round wall just right of orange n°27, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J".
26k	La Mauvaise Affaire 5+	wall / arete	Michel Grillère
to the left of orange n°27, on the backside of the boulder with the letters "I" and "J"; 6a/b without the arete.
26l	La Bonne Affaire 7a (7a+)	pillar / slopers	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
just above the blue path, on the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27); start in the dihedral and exit via the round pillar
26l'	La Bonne Affaire assis 7b	pillar / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
just above the blue path, on the boulder with the letters "I" and "J" (boulder with orange n°27). Sitstart in the dihedral and exit via the round pillar.
27c	Punta Gaga 7a+	wall / slopers / sitstart	Stéphan Denys
right problem on the backside of the boulder marked "K". Sitstart and exit to the right with slopers.
27ca	William 7b+	traverse fltr	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder marked "K", along the blue path. Start at Punta Gaga on the backside of the boulder, traverse to the right, pass under the boulder at the angle and exit at the end of the second face.
27cb	Joe 7a+	traverse fltr	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder marked "K", along the blue path. Start at Punta Gaga on the backside of the boulder, traverse to the right, pass under the boulder at the angle and exit after that one.
27d	Chaude comme la Braise 6b+	wall / crack / sitstart	Philémon Dumez
left problem on the boulder marked "K"; sitstart and exit to the right by the crack
27ea	La Traversée des Dalton 8a+	traverse fltr	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder marked "K", along the blue path. Start completely left on the backside of the boulder, traverse to the right, pass under the boulder at the angle and exit at the end of the second face.
27eb	Jack 7c+	traverse fltr	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder marked "K", along the blue path. Start completely left on the backside of the boulder as for Averell, traverse to the right, pass under the boulder at the angle and exit after that one.
27ed	Averell 7c	traverse fltr / wall	Arnaud Ceintre
on the boulder marked "K", along the blue path. Start completely left on the backside of the boulder, traverse to the right and exit in Chaude Comme la Braise.
28a	Confluence 6a (6a+)	wall	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
right problem on the backside of the boulder against the one marked "K"; two exits are possible according to the hand that takes the pocket.
28b	La Dégoulinante 5+	crack	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
evident crack on the backside of the boulder against the one marked "K"; sitstart is 6c.
29a	Karaté Kid 7a+ (7b)	roof / mantle	Olivier Lebreton
on the backside of the boulder of Sexe et Dentelles, slightly left of the boulder marked "L". Low start in the overhang and exit to the right of a round "nose".
29b	Le Museau 6a	mantle	-
on the characteristic "nose" just left of Karaté Kid, on the backside of the boulder of Sexe et Dentelles, slightly left of the boulder marked "L".
29c	Érecto Verso 6c	arete / slopers	-
right arete on the boulder of Sexe et Dentelles, underneath the blue path, slightly left of the boulder marked "L"; start at the crack and climb the arete on slopers
29d	Sexe et Dentelles 6a+	arete	Michel Grillère
just under the blue path, slightly left of the boulder marked "L".
30a	Histoire de Fous 6a	traverse frtl	-
traverse to the left under the roof, on the boulder of Mamy on Sight, along the blue path.
30b	Papy on State 6b	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
to the right of Mamy on Sight, in the corridor between the boulders marked "M" and "N".
30c	Mamy on Sight 6b	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
to the left of Papy on State, in the corridor between the boulders marked "M" et "N".
31a	Le Lézard au Soleil 6a	roof / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
on the South face of the boulder marked "N", along the blue path.
31b	La Vache de Toit 5+	roof / expo	-
on the Western face of the boulder marked "N".
32a	Le Pilier Tranquille 5-	pillar / wall / pockets	-
to the right of Anne-Cécile et Benjamin, between orange n°6 and orange n°7 (marked "N").
32b	Anne-Cécile et Benjamin 7a	arete / sitstart	Pepito
arete right hand on the boulder in between orange n°6 and orange n°7 (marked "N"). (GPS: N48.379150 E2.669060)
33a	Le Grand Manitou 6b	wall / expo	Michel Grillère
in the center of the area; a rope is recommended.
33b	Iznogoud 6c	arete / expo	David Evrard
arete just left of Grand Manitou; exit via a mantle in the slab before the top.
34a	L'Espoir Brisé 6c	crack / sitstart	-
on the backside of Lueur d'Espoir, just above L'Espoir Naufragé, underneath orange n°6.
34b	Lueur d'Espoir 7c	crack / overhang / sitstart	Régis Allayaud
5m long overhanging jam-crack, just above L'Espoir Naufragé, underneath orange n°6.
35a	L'Espoir Naufragé 7a+	overhang / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
15m underneath Lueur d'Espoir, to the right of orange n°3.
36a	Vert de Gris 5	wall / slopers	Pepito
slightly exposed wall on the left face of orange n°3; exit on slopers.
37a	L'Esquive 4+	slab	-
on a small boulder above La Grosse Bertha.
38b	La Grosse Bertha 7a (6c)	slab / crimps	Michel Grillère
on the boulder with a characteristic prow in between orange n°3 and orange n°4. (GPS: N48.379380 E2.668740)
39a	Essai Transformé 5	wall / slopers	Pepito
right problem on the boulder of Les Certitudes (boulder to the right of orange n°2).
39b	Trois Petits Trous 6a	wall / pockets / crimps	Michel Grillère
just right of Les Certitudes, on the boulder to the right of orange n°2.
39c	Les Certitudes 6c	wall / monos	Pepito
direct wall with a characteristic monodoigt, just right of the tree, on the boulder to the right of orange n°2.
39d	Le Bloc à Bob 6b	wall / mantle	Michel Grillère
just left of Les Certitudes, on the boulder to the right of orange n°2.
40a	Oreillette Externe 6b	arete	-
arete on a boulder in between orange n°3 and orange n°4.
41a	OVNI 6c (6c+)	overhang / mantle	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
overhang to the left of orange n°4, 15m underneath La Grosse Bertha.
42a	Poids Plume 4+	slightly overhanging	Pepito
to the right of L'Angle Malhabile, on the boulder to the right of orange n°5.
42b	L'Angle Malhabile 5	arete	Pepito
angle on the boulder to the right of orange n°5.
42c	Le Samouraï 6c	wall	Michel Grillère
on the left face of L'Angle Malhabile, on the boulder to the right of orange n°5; slightly expo.
43a	La Pantoufle de droite 4-	slightly overhanging	Pepito
at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path. Low start on the left as for La Pantoufle de gauche, but continue to traverse and exit on the right.
43b	La Pantoufle de gauche 4	slightly overhanging	Pepito
at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path. Low start to the left and exit directly.
44a	Le Coin 5-	arete	Pepito
on the small boulder just left of the one with Ligne de Faille.
45a	Ligne de Faille 6b	pillar	Pepito
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path; high pillar to the right of the wall.
45b	L'Uni vers l'Uni 5+	wall	Michel Grillère
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path; central problem of the wall (6a direct from the ground).
45c	Le But en Soi 5-	wall / slab	-
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path. Left problem, starting from the boulder on the ground.
46a	Jet Tour 5+	dyno	Pepito
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path. Dyno from the ground (4c from the stone).
46b	L'Ascendanse 5	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path; diagonal to the left.
46c	L'Automatique 5	wall	Michel Grillère
completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path; diagonal to the right.
46d	L'Entremet 4+	slab	Pepito
slab to the right of the boulder completely South-West of the area, at the bottom of the slope, to the left of the blue path.
47a	Foot Fetish direct 6b+ (6c)	roof / wall / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
down the slope, 50m underneath Bof. Sitstart under the roof and exit directly with a sidepull and slopers.
48a	LaTeX 6a+	wall / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
down the slope, 50m underneath Bof, on the boulder to the opposite of Foot Fetish direct. Sitstart under the overhang and exit in the wall.
		Outside the topo
Chaman 7c		roof / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
underneath blue n°16 and the boulder marked "C".
Méphisto 7a		wall / crimps	Pepito
right problem on the wall underneath orange n°15 and blue n°13, near the boulder marked "C".
Les Damoiseaux en Goguette 7a		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen / Jean-Hervé Baudot
underneath Chaman, blue n°16 and the boulder marked "C".
Le Retour des Damoiseaux en Goguette 7b		traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
underneath Chaman, blue n°16 and the boulder marked "C". Sitstart completely left, low traverse and exit in Les Damoiseaux en Goguette.
Nuits Zébrées 7c+		roof	Vincent Pochon
sector Beauté, on the top of the hill by following the blue path from Le Carrefour de la Beauté. First roof above the path; start with an evident jug and don't use the boulder on the right.
- 6c		overhang	Vincent Pochon
sector Beauté, on the top of the hill by following the blue path from Le Carrefour de la Beauté, to the left of Nuits Zébrées.
Atmosphère 7a		overhang / sitstart	Vincent Pochon
sector Beauté, on the top of the hill by following the blue path from Le Carrefour de la Beauté, on the second roof along the path, just past Nuits Zébrées. Sitstart under the roof and exit directly.
Le Retour du Bonobo 7b+		roof / sitstart	Vincent Pochon
sector Beauté, on the top of the hill by following the blue path from Le Carrefour de la Beauté, on the second roof along the path, just past Nuits Zébrées. Start as for Atmosphère, but exit to the right.
Hybris 7b+		wall	Vincent Pochon
central problem on a big boulder in the sector Beauté. Access : follow the blue path for 150m past Atmosphère, go down Le Chemin de la Séduction for 20m and traverse to the left.
Hybris droite 7c		wall	Vincent Pochon
right start of Hybris, on the left of a big boulder in the sector Beauté. Access : follow the blue path for 150m past Atmosphère, go down Le Chemin de la Séduction for 20m and traverse to the left.
Hybris gauche 7c		wall	-
start in Hybris, take the jug right hand, dyno to a ledge on the left, put the right foot in the jug and finish to the left of the original exit. Access : follow the blue path for 150m past Atmosphère, go down Le Chemin de la Séduction for 20m and traverse to the left.
Cocosuma 6b (6c)		slab	Vincent Pochon
in the sector Beauté. Follow the GR for 100m past Atmosphère, and go down towards le Chemin de la Séduction. Slab in the middle of a big boulder, to the right of Hybris.
Sporto Kantes 7b+		prow	Vincent Pochon
in the sector Beauté. Follow the blue path for 150m past Atmosphère, go down Le Chemin de la Séduction for 20m and traverse to the left. Overhanging prow on the right of the big boulder of Hybris.
Jet d'Eau 6b+ (6b)		wall / dyno	Pepito
to the left of the boulder of blue n°13 (underneath the boulder marked "C"). Dyno to the left or (harder) to the right.
Jet d'Eau droite 7a		wall / dyno	-
to the left of the boulder of blue n°13 (underneath the boulder marked "C"). Variant of Jet d'Eau with a dyno to the right.
Strip-Tease 6c		wall	Pepito
to the left of the boulder of orange n°15 (boulder marked "C").
Grattes-Ciel 6b		wall / crimps	-
on the boulder with orange n°15 (boulder marked "C"), to the left of Strip-Tease.
Le Trou du Matron 5+		wall / expo	Pepito
on the boulder of orange n°15 (boulder marked "C"), to the left of the arete.
Paysages 5		wall	-
on the boulder of blue n°13 (underneath the boulder marked "C"), to the right of Jet d'Eau.
Gueule de Loup 6c		wall / crimps	Pepito
left problem on the wall underneath orange n°15 and blue n°13, near the boulder marked "C".
Fine Appellation 6b		wall	Grégory Garabedian
15m to the right and slightly underneath Grattes-Ciel and Strip Tease.
Chaise Longue assis 7a+		traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
sitstart at the angle to the left of orange n°24, traverse to the right and exit in the crimpsy slab just before orange n°28.
Via Culicidae 7b (7b+)		roof / prow / sitstart	David Evrard
on the boulder marked "Q", between Hybris and the main sector. Sitstart and climb the characteristic overhanging prow.
Le Fond de la Quille 5+		wall	Grégory Garabedian
along the blue path, 100m to the East of the boulder marked "N", in direction of Le Carrefour des Soupirs.
Thriller 7c		dyno	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
dyno in the wall on the right face of Ligne de Faille, 50m underneath La Grosse Bertha. Start with an undercling left hand and a vertical crimp right hand.
Vintage 7a (7a+)		wall / crimps	Teddy Deschamps
marbled wall 1m to the right of Algotest, on the boulder of orange n°24 and orange n°28. Start with two crimps and exit with the crack on the left at the top of the boulder.

© 1994-2010 bleau.info