Bleau.info : Franchard Ermitage : Topo

thanks to Emmanuel Ratouis

1	Caliméro 7c+	wall / slopers	Stéphan Denys
100m underneath l'Antre des Druides, right of la Chandelle (near the GR).
2	Mort à Crédit 7a (6c)	wall / arete / mantle	Emmanuel Ratouis
on the left face of the boulder of Fantaisie Brésilienne, 20m to the right of L'Enclume in direction of Franchard Meyer, above La Route Amédée. Start with the right arete and exit by a mantle either on the left or direct.
3	Fantaisie Brésilienne 7b (7a+)	slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
cimpsy slab on the right face of Mort à Crédit, 120m to the right of L'Enclume in direction of Franchard Meyer, above La Route Amédée. The boulder is located to the right of Caliméro in direction of Franchard Meyer, 80m above La Route Amédée.
4	L'Œil 6c+ (7a)	prow	Stéphan Denys
to the right of Cuisine et Dépendance, 80m to the left of the group of boulders with Fil de Verre in direction of La Cuisinière.
5	Cuisine et Dépendance / Rideau 7b+	slightly overhanging / crimps	Emmanuel Ratouis
to the left of a 6c+ prow, 80m to the left of the group of boulders with Fil de Verre in direction of La Cuisinière.
6	Bol d'Air 7a	wall / slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
without the arete, 200m beyond Caliméro on the other side of the GR. NB : possible duplicate of Viol de Nuit.
		Outside the topo
Mort à Crédit assis 7b (7a+)		wall / arete / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the left face of the boulder of Fantaisie Brésilienne, 20m to the right of L'Enclume in direction of Franchard Meyer. Sitstart at the right arete and exit in Mort à Crédit.
Fil de Verre 7c+		arete	Thibaut le Scour
characteristic arete on the boulder to the left of the big roof alongside the GR11. (GPS: N48.408930 E2.622120)
Le Toit 7a+		roof / slopers	Thibaut le Scour
big roof near Fil de Verre; exit to the left.
- 7b		roof / crack	Marc Le Ménestrel / Stéphan Denys
sitstart as for Le Toit, exit via a crack.
Boule de Nerfs 7a+		arete / sitstart	Thibaut le Scour
10m underneath Fil de Verre; sitstart.
Aux Armes Et Cætera 7c+		roof / crimps	Olivier Penel
small roof with exit in wall on the backside of the boulder with Le Toit. (GPS: N48.408710 E2.621960)
L'Enclume 7a+		wall / mantle	Stéphan Denys
30m to the right of Caliméro.
C'est Que du Bonheur! 7b+ (7b)		wall	Olivier Penel
obvious hollow in wall left around the corner of Aux Armes Et Cætera.
Sakura 8a		traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
start in black n°14, finish in black n°16; this traverse was opened in 1989.
La Linea 7a		arete / slopers / high	Thibaut le Scour
alongside the path just above the boulder with Fil de Verre, on an arete in between two old black boulders.
La Linea assis 7c		sitstart / arete	Thibaut le Scour
alongside the path, just above the boulder with Fil de Verre, on the arete in between two old black boulders. Sitstart of La Linea.
Tête à Claques 7b		-	Thibaut le Scour
on boulder to the right of Fil de Verre.
La Force du Destin 8b+		wall / overhang / mantle	Kevin Lopata
right of Fil de Verre.
- 6b		-	Pascal Etienne
in between red n°6 and red n°7.
La Robert Chapatte 5+		slightly overhanging	Pascal Etienne
between the pond and the red circuit. Diagonal to the left with good holds.
L'Antre des Druides droite 6b		roof / dyno	-
right problem, with a dynamic start to a big pocket, in the in the roof of L'Antre des Druides. Access : from the parking lot of La Cuisinière, follow La Route Amédée and 400m after the classical Pascal Meyer area, take the blue path on the right GR bleu and follow the signs indicating "Antre des Druides".
L'Antre des Druides 7c		roof	Vincent Pochon
central problem in the roof of L'Antre des Druides. Access : from the parking lot of La Cuisinière, follow La Route Amédée and 400m after the classical Pascal Meyer area, take the blue path on the right GR bleu and follow the signs indicating "Antre des Druides".
52 Gérard 7c		roof / dyno	Vincent Pochon / Julien Nadiras
right problem in the roof of L'Antre des Druides, named after the graffiti drawn at the bottom of the boulder. Access : from the parking lot of La Cuisinière, follow La Route Amédée and 400m after the classical Pascal Meyer area, take the blue path on the right GR bleu and follow the signs indicating "Antre des Druides".
Presse-moi Fort debout 7b+ (7b)		prow / slightly overhanging	-
slightly overhanging row 1m to the right of L'Enclume, on a boulder 30m to the right of Caliméro.
Presse-moi Fort 7c+		prow / slightly overhanging / slopers	-
low start to the right of L'Enclume, on a boulder 30m to the right of Caliméro. Start completely right with a big undercling and climb the overhanging prow and exit in Presse-moi Fort debout.
Papurtof 6b (6c)		roof / dyno	Grégory Garabedian
left problem (morpho) on an isolated boulder at the bottom of the slope, in the plot 763, 300m from the crossing between La Route Raymond and La Route Amédée, towards the classical sector.
Spéciale des Bois 6b		slightly overhanging / dyno	Grégory Garabedian
right problem on an isolated boulder at the bottom of the slope, in the plot 763, 300m from the crossing between La Route Raymond and La Route Amédée, towards the classical sector.
Fear Maman 6b		slightly overhanging / arete / expo	Yano Salaün
left angle on the boulder of Yéti. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route de l’Ermitage for 200m up to the top of a descent. The boulder is 20m to the left.
Le Mur des Hésitations / Yéti 6c+		slightly overhanging / crimps / expo	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
to the left of La Route de l'Ermitage, 200 to 300m after the crossing in direction of la Roche-qui-Pleure. Right angle on the boulder of Fear Maman. Access : from the parking lot, follow La Route de l’Ermitage for 200m up to the top of a descent. The boulder is then 20m to the left.
- 5+		wall / pockets	Yano Salaün
voie avec un gros trou à gauche de Alpha Jet, sur un bloc situé 100m à l'Ouest de Yéti.
Alpha Jet 7a		wall / dyno	Yano Salaün
right problem on a boulder 100m to the West of Yéti.
Laide du Genou 6a (6a+)		pockets / underclings / dyno	-
on the South face of the boulder to the left of Fil de Verre. Crouching start with two pockets, take an undercling, dyno to a jug and exit by a mantle.

© 1994-2010 bleau.info