Bleau.info : Rocher Fin : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the parking lot of Le Vaudoué, follow Le Chemin de la Mée for 1700m and take the first path on the left after a sand see. The first boulders are 200m further at the top of the slope.

		Circuit PD yellow (nº 2)
0	Départ 2	mantle	-
1	Le Cube 3	wall / crack	-
2	La Déversante 3	slightly overhanging	-
3	Le Pas à droite 2+	-	-
4	La Sineuse 2+	-	-
5	La Niche 3	-	-
6	Le Chemin de Ronde 2	-	-
7	Les Bossettes 2+	-	-
8	L'Éperon 3-	-	-
9	Le Promenoir 2+	-	-
10	La Voie du Trou 2+	-	-
11	L'Adhérence 2	-	-
12	La Dalle Marbrée 2	slab	-
13	Le Menhir 2+	-	-
		Circuit AD orange (nº 4)
1	- 2	-	-
2	- 2+	-	-
3	- 3-	-	-
4	- 3	-	-
5	- 3-	-	-
6	- 3	-	-
7	- 3-	-	-
8	- 3	-	-
9	- 2+	-	-
10	- 3+	-	-
11	- 3-	-	-
12	- 3	-	-
13	- 3+	-	-
14	- 3	-	-
15	- 3+	-	-
16	- 3-	-	-
17	- 3-	-	-
17 bis	- 3+	-	-
18	- 3-	-	-
19	- 3-	-	-
20	- 4-	-	-
20 bis	- 3-	-	-
21	- 3-	-	-
22	- 3-	-	-
23	- 3	-	-
24	- 3+	-	-
24 bis	- 4	-	-
25	- 3	-	-
26	- 3	-	-
27	- 3+	-	-
28	- 3	-	-
28 bis	- 3-	-	-
29	- 3-	-	-
30	- 3	-	-
31	- 4-	-	-
32	- 2+	-	-
33	- 3-	-	-
34	- 3	-	-
35	- 3-	-	-
36	- 4-	-	-
37	- 3	-	-
38	- 3	-	-
39	- 3+	-	-
40	- 3+	-	-
		Circuit D blue (nº 1)
1	- 4	traverse	-
2	La Crête du Coq 4-	traverse	-
3	- 4-	traverse fltr	-
4	- 4-	mantle	-
4 bis	- 4	wall	-
5	- 3	wall	-
6	- 3+	mantle	-
7	- 4-	traverse	-
8	La Cristalline 4+	slab	-
9	- 4-	traverse	-
10	- 3	wall	-
11	- 3+	expo	-
12	- 4	traverse fltr / slopers	-
13	- 4+	traverse	-
14	- 4-	slab	-
15	L'Envers du Cube 4-	wall	-
15 bis	- 4-	wall	-
15 ter	L'Angle de Marbre 5-	arete	-
16	La Fissure Jaune 4	crack	-
17	- 3+	slab	-
18	- 3	wall	-
19	La Fissure Rouge 4	crack	-
20	La Dalle du Fakir 3+	slab	-
21	La Doudou 3+	wall	-
mur marbré.
22	L'Ange Mauve 4	traverse	-
23	La Naturelle 3	wall	-
24	- 3+	wall	-
25	Les 5 Dernières Minutes 4+	slab / crimps / expo	-
26	- 3	wall	-
27	Popeye 4	wall	-
marbled wall
28	Vipère au Poing 3+	crack / mantle	-
28 bis	- 4	wall	-
29	La Cléopâtre 3+	-	-
30	- 4-	traverse frtl	-
30 bis	Le Lobe Supérieur 4+	-	-
30 ter	Le Lobe Inversé 5-	-	-
31	- 4-	overhang / mantle	-
32	- 4+	traverse	-
33	- 4	slab	-
34	- 4-	wall	-
35	- 3+	traverse / wall	-
36	- 3+	traverse	-
37	- 4-	slab	-
38	Le Surplomb de la Casquette 3+	traverse / roof	-
39	- 3+	slightly overhanging / dyno	-
39 bis	- 4-	arete	-
39 ter	- 5-	wall	-
40	- 3+	wall	-
41	- 4-	traverse fltr	-
41 bis	- 4-	-	-
42	- 4+	wall	-
42 bis	- 4+	-	-
43	- 5-	wall	-
44	- 3+	wall	-
45	- 4-	overhang	-
45 bis	- 4-	-	-
46	Le Sablier 4+	wall	-
47	L'Auvent 4-	traverse frtl	-
48	- 3+	slab	-
48 bis	- 4+	-	-
49	- 3+	mantle	-
50	- 4	-	-
51	- 4-	-	-
52	- 3+	arete	-
53	L'Éthiquette 4-	slab / high	-
53 bis	- 5-	-	-
		Circuit TD+ red (nº 3)
1	L'Angle Ingrat 5	pillar / expo	-
broken hold?
2	Ascendance 6a	traverse frtl / wall / expo	-
just left of red n°1.
3	Choux Blancs 5	wall / crack	-
4	Pastiche 4+	wall / slab	-
5	C.Q.F.D. 5-	wall / expo	-
6	Colin-Maillard 5+	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
7	Grande Manœuvre 5+	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / underclings	-
8	Contre Vérité 4	pillar / slopers	-
9	Nombril de Vénus 5	wall / mantle / slopers	-
réta dans un gros trou.
10	Syracuse 5+	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
11	Sale Gueule 5+	slightly overhanging / dyno	-
12	Le Tas de Sable 5	arete / slightly overhanging	-
13	L'Art de Vivre 5+	traverse frtl / wall	-
often wet.
14	Tronche à Noueux 5-	wall / crimps / slopers	-
15	L'Apostolat 5-	crack	-
16	Torticolis 5+	slightly overhanging	-
17	Théorème 6a	wall / crimps	-
18	Plein Pot 6b	wall / arete	-
19	La Belle d'Ivry 5+	overhang / crack	-
20	Grosse Caisse 6a+	overhang / expo	-
21	La Traversée à Taupé 6a	traverse fltr / wall	-
sur le bloc du cube.
22	Coup de Pompe 6a	wall / crimps	-
on the boulder named "le Cube"
23	Gras Double 5	wall	-
23 bis	L'Effet Pavlov 5	wall / dyno	-
24	Dinomania 4+	wall / arete	-
25	Chien Fou 5-	wall	-
26	Coup de Griffe 6a+	wall / crimps	-
27	Doigt dans l'Œil 6a	wall	-
28	Envie et Nécessité 5	wall / mantle	-
mur marbré.
29	Bras de Fer 5	slightly overhanging	-
30	Soleil Brûlé 6a	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
31	Système F 5-	wall / crack	-
32	Regain 5	wall / arete / slopers	-
32 bis	Cœur Aride 5+	wall	-
between red n°31 and red n°32.
33	La Micholeg 5+	roof / prow	-
34	Coup de Rein 5+	wall / mantle	-
		Outside the circuits
1	Le Cerf-Volant 6c+	wall / dyno / underclings	-
direct wall at the start of red n°7.
2	Le Lézard Gris 6a	wall	-
verical wall 2m to the left of red n°5.
3	Kamikaze 6a+	wall / toprope	-
direct version of red n°2.
4	Dernier Refuge 6a+ (6b)	wall / mantle	-
to the right of red n°3. Start left hand with a vertical hold and exit by a mantle.
5	Coin de Paradis 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder of blue n°3. Start in orange n°7, cross blue n°3, traverse the face after the arete and exit in orange n°8. NB : there and back is 7a+
6	Bull Dog 7a+	slightly overhanging / underclings / dyno	Sébastien Frigault / Pepito
eliminate just right of red n°11. Start with the big jug left hand, take an undercling right hand and exit by a dynamic move without using the crack of n°11 rouge by convention.
6b	Bull Dog assis 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / underclings / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
to the right of red n°11. Sitstart under the big jug , take an undercling right hand and exit in Bull Dog without using the crack of red n°11 by convention.
7	À Vue de Nez 6b	roof / mantle	-
to the right of blue n°8; exit by a mantle to the left of the "nose".
8	Mémoire d'Outre Tombe 7a+	sitstart / roof / arete	-
roof to the right of blue n°8. Sitstart in the back of the roof, exit via the arete to the right.
8b	Chevalier Errant 7b	sitstart / roof	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
roof to the right of blue n°8. Sitstart in the back of the roof, exit in the face to the right with crimps (without the arete).
8c	Mrs du Plus 7b (7b+)	sitstart / traverse fltr / roof	Bernard Théret
sitstart to the right of blue n°8, traverse to the start of Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe and exit in that one.
9	Le Nain Vert Sait 7a+ (7a)	wall / underclings / slopers	Bernard Théret
to the right of blue n°10. Start with a good undercling left hand, follow the fake crack and exit to the right on slopers.
9b	Le Nain Vert Sait assis 7b (7a+)	wall / slopers / sitstart	-
to the right of blue n°10. Sitstart and exit in Le Nain Vert Sait on slopers.
10	La Tour-Menthe 6b+ (6c)	wall	-
on the boulder to the left of blue n°10; start with a low pocket.
11	La Guêpe 6a+	wall / crimps	-
on the left face of blue n°6.
12	No Name 6c	slightly overhanging / pockets / slopers	-
to the left of a blue triangle, on the boulder 10m to the opposite of blue n°7. Start with pockets and exit on slopers.
13	Matière et Mémoire 7b (7a)	overhang / sitstart / dyno	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
direct problem in the small overhang along the path on the top of the slope, in the beginning of the sector; morpho.
13b	Xuexi Hanyu 6c+	overhang / slopers / sitstart	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
in the small overhang along the path on the top of the slope, in the beginning of the sector. Sitstart as for Matière et Mémoire, traverse to the right and come back to the same exit jug.
13c	Durée et Simultanéité 6c	overhang / sitstart	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
in the small overhang along the path on the top of the slope, in the beginning of the sector. Sitstart as for Matière et Mémoire, traverse to the right and exit in the right face (7a+ without the foothook).
14	El Kift 7b+	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Dennis Teijsse
low sitstart in a small overhang, to the left and around the corner of blue n°12. NB : please try this problem only if the boulder is really dry, as it contains a small hold that seems to be very fragile.
14b	La traversée d'El Kift 7b+ (7c)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart in El Kift, traverse to the left on slopers and exit by the left angle. First known realization by Manuel Marquès. NB : it is also possible to start at the corner of blue n°12.
16	Soleil Levant 7a	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
prolongation of Désordre, 20m to the East of red n°14, just before L'Envol du Martinet. Start with two hands on an oblique crimp, downclimb in the small cave to the right, take an undercling, follow the ledge and exit completely to the right as for Désordre.
16b	Désordre 6c (6b+)	traverse fltr	-
20m to the East of red n°14, just before L'Envol du Martinet. Start in the small cave, traverse to the right, take an undercling, follow the ledge and exit completely to the right.
17	Soleil Couchant 7a	traverse frtl / sitstart	Pepito
20m to the East of red n°14, just before L'Envol du Martinet. Sitstart on the right at a jug, traverse to the left on slopers, downclimb to the cave and exit in the left face.
18	L'Envol du Martinet / Naufrage d'une Illusion 7a	wall / dyno	Serge Martinet
red arrow facing yellow n°3. Dyno with the vertical hold left hand.
18	Naufrage d'une Illusion (méthode statique) 6c (7a)	wall	-
red arrow facing yellow n°3. Static version of L'Envol du Martinet, with the vertical hold right hand and a sloper left hand. NB : the difficulty depends on the size of the climber and a sitstart is possible.
18b	La Hargne du Pitbull 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps / sitstart	Paul Voisin
sitstart and climb the wall just right of L'Envol du Martinet (slightly morpho).
19	Le Réveille-Matin 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr / wall	-
on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of yellow n°3, to the right of La Fissure Bleue. Low start with pockets and exit in the wall with the right ledge.
20	La Fissure Bleue 6b+ (6c)	crack / wall	-
direct wall to the left of Le Réveille-Matin, on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of yellow n°3.
21	Bolchoye Dourak 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the opposite of red n°14. Start on a platform, traverse to the right via slopers, an arete and a wall, and exit in yellow n°2. There and back is 7a+/7b.
22	Aquarelle 5+ (6a)	traverse frtl / wall	-
start to the right, under the overhang near orange n°34, traverse to the left and exit in red n°14.
23	Du Haut sur Grès 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
in the North part of the sector, on the other side of a path. Sitstart with right hand on a sloper and left hand on a crimp, exit direct.
23b	Duo sur Trave 6b+ (6c)	sitstart / traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
in the North part of the sector, on the other side of a path. Sitstart with right hand on a sloper and left hand on a crimp as for Du Haut sur Grès, traverse to the right and exit in the slightly overhanging wall after the arete.
24	Long Réage 6a (6a+)	traverse frtl	-
long traverse on the boulder above Du Haut sur Grès, in the North part of the sector. Start completely right, and exit after the angle of the left face.
25	Siège Éjectable 7a	sitstart / crack / slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
in the North part of the sector, on the other side of a path, on the boulder to the right of Platine. Sitstart under a crack, and exit in a belly.
26	Platine 7a	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
in the North part of the sector, on the other side of a path, on the boulder to the left of Siège Éjectable . Do not use the aretes (6a+/6b with the right one).
27	Un Jour 4+	wall / crimps	-
in the North part of the sector, on the other side of a path, to the right of Platine (7a).
28	Le Miroir du Fou 7a	wall / crimps	Serge Martinet
crimpsy wall underneath red n°15, above a path. NB : old problem of S. Martinet rediscovered by B. Théret.
30	Le Requin 6b+ (6c)	sitstart / crack / wall	-
on the boulder prolongating that of red n°15 and red n°16. Sitstart under the crack, exit in the wall to the right.
31	Le Citron Vert 6a+	wall	-
on the left face of red n°17. Start right hand on a sloper and left hand on a small hold.
31b	Croisade 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr / wall	-
on the left face of the boulder of red n°17. Start left hand with the sloper of Citron Vert, traverse to the right and exit in Vice Caché, in the wall with a big hold.
32	Vice Caché 5	wall	-
direct problem on the left face of the boulder of red n°17, between Citron Vert and Hélium.
33	Hélium 5+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the face to the left of red n°17. Start with the big pocket and exit in the wall.
33b	Hélium assis 6c+ (6c)	sitstart / wall / mantle	Bernard Théret
sitstart at the arete to the left of red n°17, with right hand low on the arete and left hand on an undercling (by convention), exit in Hélium with the big pocket.
34	La Belle Vertueuse 6b (6c)	wall	Pepito
1m50 to the right of red n°17.
35	The Pile 6b+	wall	-
vertical problem to the left of red n°18. Start with the angle and exit directly.
36	Frégate 6c	wall / arete / sitstart	-
sitstart under red n°18e and exit in that one (or in red n°19)).
36b	Grosse Caisse 7a	traverse fltr / roof / expo	-
sitstart under red n°18, traverse to the right and exit in red n°20.
36t	Professeur Tournesol 8a	traverse fltr	Christophe Laumone
start in red n°18 and finish completely right.
37	Mangabey 7a	traverse frtl / overhang	Pascal Etienne
start in red n°20, go down in red n°19 and exit in red n°18.
38	Mains Chaudes 6b	arete	-
in the corridor to the left of red n°18. The direct wall without the arete is Les Serbes (7b).
38b	Les Serbes 7a+ (7b)	wall	Marc Le Ménestrel / François Louvel
in the corridor to the left of red n°18, to the left of Les Croates. Direct wall, without the left arete (the arete is called Mains Chaudes, 6b+).
39	Les Croates 7b	wall / underclings / crimps	Marc Le Ménestrel / François Louvel
in the corridor to the left of red n°18, to the right of Les Serbes.
40	Le Nez aux Vents 6b	traverse frtl	Jean-Louis Colombo
on the boulder of "Le Cube". Start to the left of yellow n°1, with a bidoigt left hand and a sloper right hand, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the other face on slopers.
41	Forty-ssimo 7a (6c+)	wall / crimps	Jo Montchaussé
on the "Cube" boulder. Direct wall just left of the start of red n°22; morpho.
41b	L'Arête sans l'Arête 6b	wall / slab	Benoît Debeugny
on the boulder of Le Cube, just right of L'Arête de Marbre (blue n°15 ter), without the arete.
42	Variance 6b	wall / crimps	-
on the "Cube" boulder. Direct wall with an old red arrow just left of red n°22.
43	Sable Mouvant 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
on the small starting boulder of the yellow circuit. Sitstart in the corridor, traverse to the right on slopers and exit after the arete.
44	Passage Forcé 6a+ (6b)	wall / crimps	Pepito
diagonal to the right to the left of Le Pilier, on the boulder of blue n°18.
45	Le Pilier 5+	pillar	-
to the left of a blue triangle, on the boulder of orange n°32 and blue n°18.
46	L'Intégrale 7a	traverse fltr	-
traverse on two faces of the boulder with red n°23 to red n°25. Start at the blue triangle, downclimb orange n°33, pass the angle, low traverse and exit through the arete of red n°23.
47	Beurre Salé / Avenue du Rock 6c	traverse fltr / wall	-
traverse on the face of red n°23 to red n°25. Start with the angle right hand, traverse to the right and exit in red n°24.
48	Guerre et Paix 7a	sitstart / pockets / mantle	Pepito
sitstart with a hole right hand, climb diagonally to the left, and finish just to the right of red n°34. NB : sitstart to the right as in the most recent video.
48b	NoNameYet 7b+ (7c)	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Thibaut le Scour
to the right of red n°34. Sitstart as for Guerre et Paix with a hole for the right hand but exit to the right.
49	Les Zinzins de l'Espace 8a+	traverse frtl	Christophe Laumone
start completely right and finish in red n°34.
50	Minotaure 7b+	traverse fltr / crimps	-
start at the left angle on the boulder of blue n°24, traverse with horizontal holds and exit in blue n°24.
51	Vue Basse 7a	traverse frtl	-
start in blue n°23, low traverse, pass the angle and exit in red n°32. Exit variants : in red n°29 (6a+/6b), in red n°30, in red n°31 (7a), or in red n°32 bis (7a+).
52	La Bombe 6a (6a+)	wall / slopers	-
on the boulder to the left of red n°32.
53	Starting Bloc / Micholeg assis 7c (7c+)	roof / prow / sitstart	-
sitstart of La Micholeg (red n°33). Update (January 2010) : due to a broken hold, the sitstart has become much more difficult.
54	Tour de Chauffe 4-	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder of blue n°27. Start at the right arete, traverse with the ledge and exit after the left arete (6a/6a+ with the underclings instead of the ledge).
55	Sur le Fil 6b (6a+)	arete	Bernard Théret
angle to the left of blue n°27.
56	Anak Krakatoa 7a (6c+)	sitstart / overhang / crack	-
on the other side of blue n°26, near the end of the red circuit. Sitstart low in the cave and exit with the crack.
56b	Krakatoa 7b (7b+)	sitstart / overhang / traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°26. Start as for Anak Krakatoa (sitstart in a cave), then traverse to the right without grabbing the top of the boulder, and finish after the arete in orange n°29.
57	Défenestration 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	-
on the boulder between red n°20 and the boulder of blue n°26 Anak Krakatoa. Traverse on slopers and exit by a mantle before the arete.
57b	Vers Glas Fréquent 7b+ (7c)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder between red n°20 and the boulder of blue n°26 Anak Krakatoa. Traverse on slopers and exit after a round arete (exit with a mantle before the arete is 6c/6c+).
58	Toutendal 5	wall / crimps	-
crimpsy wall 3m to the left of orange n°24.
59	Aux Pieds Jaloux 7c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the face to the right of blue n°30 to blue n°30 ter. Start with left hand on a sloper and right hand on an undercling, traverse to the right, cross the hands at an oblique crack and exit with right hand on the ledge.
60	Crochet Feinte 7b+ (7c)	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°30. Traverse the two faces and exit in the corridor 1m before the arete (exit past the arete is 7c).
61	Rapido 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps	-
left variant of blue n°34. Start right hand with an oblique hold, take a crimp left hand and exit.
62	La Bascule 4-	slab	-
slab with a blue point to the opposite of the start of du bloc du blue n°35.
63	Sous-Dur 7b	traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of blue n°35. Sitstart to the left, traverse on crimps and exit with vertical holds.
64	L'Oreille en Coin 6a+	wall	-
direct static problem at the start of blue n°35 (the dynamic version is 5b).
64b	L'Oreille en Coin assis 7a	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	-
sitstart in the slightly overhanging wall of blue n°35, climb a sort of vertical crack and exit directly.
65	L'Auvent Tripotant 7b	prow / overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder to the right of Narine à Voile, near blue n°35. Sitstart 3m to the right of the prow, traverse and exit in the roof.
65b	L'Auvent Tripotant raccourci 7a	prow / overhang	Gilles Cottray
shortened version (without the traverse) of L'Auvent Tripotant, on the boulder to the right of Narine à Voile, near blue n°35. Crouching start under the overhang with the hole and a sidepull and exit by the overhanging prow.
66	Narine à Voile 7a	sitstart / overhang	Gilles Cottray
to the left of l'Auvent Tripotant, 25m behind blue n°35. Sitstart under the "nose" and exit via the ledge of the roof.
67	Reins Fauchés 7b+	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a marbled boulder, 40m behind blue n°35, 15m past Narine à Voile. Standing start is 7b.
68	Le Haut du Rond 6b	wall / arete / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of Recyclage, 30m to the North of blue n°39, to the opposite of L'Auvent Tripotant. Sitstart at a crack and exit by a round angle.
69	Recyclage 7a	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
30m to the North of blue n°39, to the opposite of L'Auvent Tripotant. Sitstart to the right, traverse and exit via the wall after the arete. Also known as Fourmi-lion (eliminate by Bernard Théret staying low in the face, 7a+).
70	Le Couloir 3+ (4-)	wall	-
small boulder to the left of blue n°39.
71	Pas si Neuf 6b	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of blue n°39 bis.
72	Le Dernier Réta 7a	mantle	Gilles Cottray
on the left face of the boulder of Boule de Gnôme, behind blue n°40.
73	Boule de Gnôme 7a (6c+)	sitstart / overhang / crack	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of Le Dernier Réta, in the overhanging bowl behind blue n°40. Sitstart, climb the bowl on slopers and exit via the crack.
74	Route à Gouttes 7c	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
low traverse on the boulder behind the one facing blue n°36. Exit via the arete.
75	L'Angle aux Mannes 6c	pillar / slopers	Gilles Cottray
left pillar two boulders behind blue n°36.
76	L'Angle Morne 6a+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
right pillar two boulders behind n°36 bleu.
77	Verglas 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
to the left of blue n°42 bis.
78	Le Mur Rien 6a	wall / crimps	-
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°42.
79	La Rotonde 5+ (6a)	wall / slab	-
on the other side of the boulder of blue n°42, to the right of Le Mur Rien.
80	- 6a	wall	-
to the left of blue n°42.
81	La Châtaigne 5+ (6a)	wall / pillar / sitstart	Pierre Nédélec
sitstart of the wall/pillar just left of blue n°43.
82	Fraîcheur d'un Soir 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl	-
start in blue n°43 with an undercling, traverse to the left and exit in the "bombé" to the left of La Châtaigne.
83	Trasumaka 6b	traverse fltr	-
start under the exit of blue n°47 and exit in blue n°46.
83b	Haut de Hurlevent 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr / wall / slopers	-
start under the exit of blue n°47 and exit in the wall of À Plats Ventre.
84	Baume au Cœur 7a	wall / bidoigt / slopers	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of blue n°46, behind a tree, to the right of a old blue triangle. Start as for Au Grès du Ventre but take the bidoigt left hand and exit on slopers to the right.
84b	Au Grès du Ventre 7a+	wall / bidoigt / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of blue n°46, behind a tree, to the right of a old blue triangle. Start as for Baume au Cœur but take the bidoigt right hand and exit to the left on slopers.
85	À Plats Ventre 6b	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray
vertical wall 2m to the left of blue n°46.
86	Kamasutra 6b+ (6b)	traverse frtl / wall / pockets	-
start in blue n°46, traverse to the left and exit in pockets at a blue triangle before the exit of blue n°47.
87	L'Autre Versée 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray
wall to the right of blue n°46, without the arete.
88	Jackie Kleine 5+	traverse fltr	J. Gautier
on the boulder to the right of blue n°50 (there and back is 6a+).
89	Rosy Bonde 4-	slab	R. Gautier
small slab on the backside of the boulder of Jacky Kleine, on the boulder to the right of blue n°50.
90	Tapis Volant 7a+ (7b)	traverse frtl / overhang	Bernard Théret
start completely to the right of blue n°50, the two hands on the low vertical pinch, traverse left under the roofs with underclings and exit by doing Ramasse Feuilles.
90b	Carpette Fly 7b+	traverse frtl / overhang	Bernard Théret
start as for Tapis Volant, but under the roof, at the good hold for the left hand (fracture of the boulder), exit with right hand to the right of blue n°50.
91	Ramasse Feuille 6c+	sitstart / traverse frtl / overhang	Bernard Théret
sitstart 1m50 to the right of blue n°52 with the two hands on the oblique flake, traverse left under the roof and exit in blue n°52; the grade depends on the use of feet hooks.
91b	Parallèle / Fifty 7b	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Pierre Collantier
sitstart of blue n°50.
92	Petite Mousse 5+	wall	-
1m to the left of blue n°51.
		Outside the topo
Le Parfum des Couleurs 7c		roof / sitstart	Alain Dupas
low sitstart of the overhang just right of blue n°22, on the boulder of red n°9 and red n°10.
Sécheresse 5+		overhang / slopers	Eric Létot
direct problem between the exit of blue n°47 and the blue triangle (exit of Kamasutra). Start with jugs and exit on slopers.
Sécheresse en traversée 6b (6b+)		traverse frtl / overhang / slopers	Eric Létot
start in blue n°46, traverse to the left and exit in Sécheresse, between the exit of blue n°47 and the blue triangle (exit of Kamasutra).
Hackebärli Fin 7a		slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
in the North part of the area, 50m to the opposite of Hélium, on the other side of the path. Sitstart with two slopy undercuts and finish to the left with slopers on the right prow without using the small boulder to the left.

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