Abdolobotomy   7a

area : Franchard Isatis
type : sitstart / pinches / slopers

description : five meters to the left of De Vita Beata (se the topo du fond de l'Isatis). Sitstart in the middle with a heelhook to the left on the ramp, exit to the right via the summit with a pinch and slopers.

Reactions about this boulder

prise cassée? [fr] posted by christianroik ~ 26.04.2006 17:13

est-ce que la prise cassée en bas (manifestement c'était un bon bac...) l'était avant ou après la cotation annoncée, car je n'ai pas du tout levé mon derrière du sol!
ou bien quelle est la méthode de départ?
actuellement il semble qu'une bonne allonge est nécessaire pour prendre et valoriser directement la verticale MG
merci de tout éclairage!

sitstart with... posted by jann ~ 06.05.2006 19:23

hello,
the sitdownstart is right hand in the 'good hold' and left on a sloper and a very precise hoolhook on a very little micro gratton with your left foot on the big ledge above the level of your hands to the left, and the right leg on high tension under the roof.After you take this position put your body up with much power on the heelhook aswel as on the abdos.go with the left hand to the almost vertical hold and stay with the left foot on the big ledge for going with the right hand to the better hold.Then take the pinch hold with left hand and climb out on slopers .At least is this the way I've done this boulderproblem.'the starthold for the let hand was also a little broken'

jan

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