Ubik   8a+

opened by : Julien Nadiras
area : Les Mammouths
type : overhang

description : on the backside boulder with Osiris; n°7 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05).

Reactions about this boulder

Versions G et D? posted by DJ ~ 30.03.2007 10:57

Vu la méthode démontrée par M. Caminati, peut-on parler de deux versions de ce passage? La classique à gauche et l'autre avec la réglette en haut à droite. 8a+ et 8a respectivement?

crossed sequence... posted by Michele ~ 01.04.2007 01:19

I actually used the same holds crossing the sequence: I crossed to the pinch with the left ( not taken it as a sloper with the right ) and then jumped directly to a sloper just straight above and campused again the top with right hand, finally i used the same crimp on the left to exit. I Didn't take any crimp on the right or move in that direction. ( there is a small one but far... It would have been harder to me). I did it like that mainly because trying it alone I found it easier to control the bad fall. Perhaps it may result easier using that method, but i don't know well because I didn't try a lot in the other way. Anyway it could be somewhere around 8a or 8a+, the day I did it there was a lot of friction! Just go, try the two methods and say what you think... the bloc is just there and is magnifique.
Salut, Michele.

On va donc avoir bientôt un Ubik droite [fr] posted by on n'arrête pas le progrès ~ 01.04.2007 09:03

Et puis quoi encore [fr] posted by ??? ~ 01.04.2007 18:58

Michele a fait un autre mouv sur le même bloc et c'est très bien.
Si les prochains répétiteurs trouvent effectivement cette séquence plus facile alors il sera logique que la cotation soit réajustée. Mais c'est la même ligne.
La seule conclusion possible c'est que les répétiteurs se sont laissés enfermer dans une méthode comme quoi il faut toujours se remettre en question.
Néanmoins il n'est pas sûr que cela soit réellement plus facile.
Bravo à Michele.

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