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opened by : Jan De Smit
area : Franchard Hautes-Plaines
type : sitstart / arete / slopers
description : 15m to the left of Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels; sitstart at the left without the boulder below; morpho.
Eliminante...? [fr] posted by fred167 ~ 20.01.2008 20:37
Morpho, surement, si on utilise la méthode en vidéo... mais avec une méthode moins tirée par les cheveux, ca donne un petit 7a, en prenant une cupule 10cm a gauche de l'arête de gauche...
Si je peux me permettre (jdis ca, jdis rien), pourquoi ouvrir une éliminante dure et taillée pour les géants là ou ca passe plus facilement, sans aller chercher des prises en dehors de la ligne et sans mettre hors jeu la moitié des grimpeurs...?
video posted by jann ~ 21.01.2008 10:34
jan is the man on the video so in my point of view that should be the way to climb this boulder because he opened the boulderproblem .the problem is also for smaller people but they need to use a foothold under the roof with the right food and than do a toohoek with the left just like on the video but with one movement more.so.....
Method posted by Bart ~ 21.01.2008 10:53
The way to climb a problem is the way you want to do it but the grading should be the grading of the easiest way to climb a problem. So if the solution with the small hold to the left of the left arête is easier than the solution in the video the problem should be dowgraded.
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