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XXX   7b+ (7c)

opened by : Olivier Lebreton
area : Dame Jouanne
type : prow / slopers / sitstart

description : slightly overhanging prow two boulders behind Hibernatus, completely to the East, 10m to the left of the stairs, under the top of the slope. Start left with the arete and exit as for comme dans Usbek.


Reactions about this boulder


Correct Method and Line??? posted by unclesomebody ~ 11.02.2008 22:11

I think I repeated this today, but here is a video of the way I climbed it. Is this the same as Olivier? To me, it felt very hard for 7C. I also have some photos I can upload if the thing I climbed is the same! Perhaps I climbed XXX direct? :)

http://www.vimeo.com/682565

Thanks.


Method seems correct...(and video is nice) posted by Le freak...c'est chic !!! ~ 12.02.2008 10:38

...for the easiest version !!! At least that's the way I've tried it (not successfully) and felt it indeed very hard for 7b+ :-(((

As far as I understood, Olivier did a direct exit to the left from the start of the roof, then reached the right hand crimp after few moves on slopers. Tha'ts the hardest version i.e. 7c : Bouhouhouhou, sniff !

Anyway, you confirm my first feeling about difficulty of that boulder !

PS : isnt'it the same as N° 18 in 7+8 guide named "usbek" and graded 7b????


usbek posted by nico5 ~ 12.02.2008 11:24

usbek is on the right of this boulder.


photo [fr] posted by freak ~ 12.02.2008 12:13

I see the video.
I start with the arete on the left of the boulder . the start like you is a kind of "usbek": the same start and the same end!
XXX start on the left and i use the bad slopper to reach the two crimp for right hand with feet hook.

Photo are here: http://pointbloc.blogspot.com/2008/01/photo.html

Good climb



usbek or XXX or something else? posted by unclesomebody ~ 12.02.2008 17:00

thank you for the replies. I also tried the same method in the photos. I started in the birds nest, then right hand to the 2 finger pocket, left hand to sloper, right hand to crimp, then left hand to next sloper, then a huge move to the crimp with your right hand. At this point you are in the same position so I think one of these problems is maybe eliminate. I could have climbed it the XXX way, but I thought it was strange to go left and then back right again. The moves are good and hard though.

Did you exit in the same place? Did I climb usbek or XXX or a combination? I think the thing I climbed was 7C. I can't find usbek on bleau.info.

It's all cool though. Whichever way you go. Enjoy!


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