L'Homme Fossile   8a

opened by : Christophe Laumone
area : Marion des Roches
type : roof / sitstart

description : The overhang has become dangerous : do not climb!
to the right of Feel du Logis (see n°1 du topo du secteur Aurore). Sitstart and climb the roof directly (10 moves).

Reactions about this boulder

VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT CLIMB posted by unclesomebody ~ 10.03.2008 14:46

I was at this boulder yesterday and all the glue that was holding the holds to the roof is coming loose. The long sidepull in the roof is flexing, and then the undercut you take with your right hand is flexing a lot! I did the moves before realising the danger and then I stopped climbing. Please do not climb here until someone fixes the holds. If you pull the undercut off there is a big danger of the rock landing in your face or chest and it is a big piece of rock that will come off.

Please can someone translate this into french and warn everyone. It is not climbable due to the very fragile and now dangerous nature. It would have been very easy for me to pull one of them off if I wanted!

Prises qui bougent [fr] posted by marie ~ 10.03.2008 15:26

En effet, les prises bougent dans les voies Feel du Logis et L'Homme Fossile, il vaut mieux éviter d'y grimper pour le moment, elles vont bientôt être sikatée...

!! [fr] posted by jibiji ~ 13.05.2008 09:55

I see this problem have just been climbed. I went there end of march and the holds were still bad. The holds were stuck or the climber is less than 50kg ???

? posted by unclesomebody ~ 14.05.2008 00:11

I also wondered about this. Jesse is not a small guy! Have the holds been reinforced now?

Sika [fr] posted by jibiji ~ 14.05.2008 09:18

There was some sika on the holds but it was not glued anymore - only sticking on one side. So I decided not to climb there. If the holds were not reinforced I think it was a really stupid idea to climb there. Not only dangerous, but as stupid as when you climb in some areas just after rain and destroy the problems (Annot, Albarracin...).

still being climbed posted by neil_h ~ 23.06.2008 14:35

I was down here today to climb big mak, I stoped at the roof because i say a lot of chalk. The flakes are still very loose and dangerouse, It was flexing under my weight without me pulling of the ground.

The chalk on te problem looks very new, like in the last day or two, I know this because there was a big pile of chalk on the floor outside the roof like someone had dropped there chalkbag,

I also noticed that the left problem there was some fresh rock scars were it has broke.

Why do people insist on climbing these problems, I have spent a couple of days down there climbing some very nice problems. It baffles me that people can clearly see just how bad the roof is but yet they would sooner damage the rock trying to climb it than to find other nice problems.


rant over


neil

New reaction

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