Le Cap   6b (6b+)

opened by : Stéphan Denys & Pascal Morel & Laurent Darlot
area : Restant du Long Rocher Nord
type : slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart

description : near the bottom of the slope, underneath the boulder of Veni Vidi Vici and the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart on a small stone (without crash-pad) with the crimps of Manimal, to the right of the start of Bonne Espérance, climb the wall with the arete up to a jug, traverse to the left and exit as for Manimal.

Reactions about this boulder

method posted by neil_h ~ 30.06.2009 17:06

I did this problem today, but found it completly desperate for 6b, but I did not use the arete

anyone shed any light?

A Method posted by Evrard.d ~ 30.06.2009 17:55

You start with the crimps like manimal. A little dyno to take a pinch right hand (near the crack).
Another little dyno to take the big hole with your left hand. After that, you must take the big hole to the left with your right hand. And You put your right foot (en pointe) in the hole. so you can take a big crimp to the left with your right hand.
And it\'s finished, just a little \"reta\" like Manimal.

So specials and funny moves..

++
David

ah posted by neil_h ~ 30.06.2009 18:20

so thats why i found it hard, I pulled on the crimps of manimal and dynod dirct to the big hole no arete

that was hard

:)

New reaction

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