L'Artificier   7a+

opened by : Philippe Le Denmat
area : Rocher Saint-Germain
type : slab / crimps / traverse fltr

description : diagonal at the backside of orange n°4. Start at the shell hole, finish to the right as for Lacrima.
NB : often confused with Mise au Poing (6c/7a slab on the left).

Reactions about this boulder

Direct? [fr] posted by Bart ~ 25.03.2003 15:23

C'est quoi la difference entre l'Artificier et l'Artificier Direct à Saint Germain?

Speculation... posted by Adwin ~ 29.02.2004 01:30

This is what I received from jpr :-)

Concerning the direct version, there is a certain ambiguity. I asked two guys attempting an 8a in the sector : their opinion is that only the last moves are different and, by the way, direct would mean more difficult. I didn't try this version but I wonder if it really adds one grade and a half to the cotation...

The slabs around L'Artificier, by Philippe LeDenmat posted by jpr ~ 01.03.2004 21:14

Here is a complete description of the different slabs around the "shell hole", kindly communicated by Philippe :
The "shell hole slab", starting straight up the hole, is a long-known problem which is worth 6c. 1m right, is the "Artificier Direct", 7c. The classical "Artificier" finishes with a diagonal traverse to the right. The end is common with "Lacrima", which starts 1m right of the Articier. There is also an interesting 6c slab, 1m left of the shell hole.
It seems likely that most of the "repetitors" actually climb the latter slab (dalle du trou d'obus gauche). Thanks again to Philippe for all the precisions.

New 8a boulder at Rocher Saint-Germain posted by jpr ~ 01.03.2004 21:14

Philippe LeDenmat and myself have independently seen climbers attempting a new (already realized??) 8a, located 150m north of the Artificier. It is a round pillar with sloppers, about 4.5 m high with a north-eastern orientation. I think have understood that the name is "Patati-patata", but this not guaranteed.

"Patati", "Vague Patatras", "Opération plats du desert" [fr] posted by Eric ~ 01.03.2004 22:32

A priori il y a plusieurs voies réalisées par Manu Marques sur ce bloc le long du sentier bleu, derrière le 28 bleu et en face du 27 jaune : "Patati", "Vague Patatras" et "Opération Plats du Désert" en photo d'ailleurs sur le site.

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