El Paso   7c+ (8a)

opened by : Francis Hélias
area : Apremont Envers
type : roof / sitstart

description : from the N7 (parking facing Bas Cuvier), take the Route de la Solitude; the boulder is on the left side, just beyond carrefour Felix Herbert, where the GR forks; the roof is just above the ground (start extremely low is 8a)

Reactions about this boulder

what is EXTREMELY low ??? posted by stef ~ 23.04.2003 18:46

There is a big hold 40cm above ground for the left hand with a big place for both foot under, the you can reach a big bi with right hanfd ? Can it be 8a with this start ??

lie down posted by Jos ~ 24.04.2003 00:18

if I remember it well it has a lie-down start in the back of a roof just a couple of inches above the ground to exit via an arete.

Hi jos posted by stef ~ 24.04.2003 17:51

Do i understand that you take a righthand twofingerpocket to cross on a pinch lefthanded and then go rihgt ? this is THE logical way ... but what hell is elPaso ????

stef

- posted by harrr ~ 11.03.2005 16:35

judging from this discussion el paso doesnt seem to be a good problem as other helias-nonsense problems like "when exigence dies" (or how was it called?)
soon f.h. will be successful in becoming famous (what he was after, all the time) but definetly not in a positive way but as the person who has given names to the most unrepeated and needless problems in the world... (especially his very cool there-and-back-up-and-down-three-times-around-the-block-traverses)

QUESTION: why is it necessary that day koyomada flies around the half of the globe to first ascent the logical and very cool lower start of fatamorgana and satanihelvet while the bleau locals try to link the crappy moves of imohtep sds or try to climb some traverse there and back ???

Nice reflexion .... posted by ~ 11.03.2005 22:14

I totaly agree with you except sds imothep migth be the logical SDS of 2006..... while low fata morgana is not so logical.. sit down is sitted on the sand... low is low, kind of low not high ans so one, you must precise what is low..... but sat is sat nothing to add, you sit down and end to the top

PS add to that the numerous very nice problems opened by julien and compare to the numerous unexistent problem of francis .... do You know Maunoury.... One major problem from julien, 20 nonexistent others problems you can miss even if you're in front....

don't agree entirely with you posted by nico5 ~ 11.03.2005 22:31

francis is not a friend of mine. but he's just searching for the hardest moves to do. so most of his boulders are very conventionnal. there are a lot of boulders even in the most famous which are in some ways conventionnal. low start is an example of this statement. for he boulders of the maunoury, some of my friends went there and to their opinion there are some ones which are great: les tetines, baloo... i think i will go soon to check by myself so i could tell you my opinion. el paso is not very nice for the hardest variant but the right varaiant is pretty cool. julien has also opened non sense boulders and there are many others that are in that case.
never mind, this is not the most important. fracis open for his pleasure and he tells about what he does. it's up to if you want to climb his bolulders.
see you

inexistant et suffisant [fr] posted by ~ 12.03.2005 11:22

On peut toujours s'interroger sur la neccessité de nommer et coter un passage d'autant plus qu'il est à conventions, le passage originel non séléctif n'était-il pas suffisant??

harr has it spot on! posted by ian ~ 14.03.2005 14:25

to harrr:
whoever you are...: there is certainly some truth in what u say. i guess that's why no one is inclined to answer ur question.. i guess the thing is that font really is NOT THE place to be anymore and hasn't been so for quite some time. bleausards still try to be top notch but just aren't all that good at it anymore. maybe that''s why the logical lines have to be climbed by foreigners who still have a more or less good idea of what a logical boulder or great line should look like. also, downgrading is everywhere and it will definitely arrive at font in the near future. climbing crap out of fear that THE former mekka of bouldering is turing into a sodom&gomorra like downfall?? who knows..
i myself tried the imothep thing a couple of months ago and fell topping out on my third!!! day??!! and i wouldn't ever consider myself as a world-class climber.. if bleausards stopped trying to force out that fb 8c for their home area maybe future fa would be high-class as they used to be..?
the satanihelvete thing is rediculous as u mentioned. i tried it sd from the beginning on and was bummed how hard 8a can be... on the other hand, mr. REAL numbers d.g. did the fa and had media know about it. scorecards scorecards for ever and everyone...!
cheers
ian

Don't agree with you ian.... posted by ~ 14.03.2005 16:10

Imothep is certainly a major 8a of the forest, but it's a kind of stamina boulder, and so can appear easier than other 8a (c'etait demain etc..) . Sure short boulder problem (those of ninety's) are not nomuerous, but satan y hevete is definitively a separate 8b problem.... as well as the new 8b+ near fil de verre...

I hope A World class climber can do imothep flash... not fall at the top after 3 days....


Best regards

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