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opened by : Tony Fouchereau & Nick Crawshaw
area : 95.2
type : slightly overhanging / crimps / dyno
description : direct variant of Futurs Barbares without using the sidepull. NB : first done in the end of 2000, independently by Tony Fouchereau and Nick Crawshaw.
correct method? posted by DEnnis ~ 19.05.2003 15:18
I found it hard to believe that the variant as shown on the video and picture is actually harder that the original future barbares. What I understood from a description by frigault in a magazine is that for the direct variant you jump directly to the top from the left hand grimp, without the jug for your right hand. This would make more sense to me but that's off course just my opinion.
8a posted by fontlover ~ 06.06.2003 18:24
a friend of mine did both versions and said the dyno-version is actually harder than the normal one. he also did Hale Bopp and estimated Futurs B. direct. harder.
future barbares direct posted by ben ~ 19.06.2003 22:35
i found just the opposite.
i can't touch hale bopp, but
a friend and i did this variation
at the end of the day in about
10 tries. The regular way looked
impossible to me.
we felt a lot of crimpy dynos
in the forest were very overrated,
except that hale bopp thing.
we suck.....
8a? -no way! posted by mike ~ 06.10.2003 08:43
the method shown on the video and in the pictures are a lot easier than the original future barbare. it´s very similar to le ange naif in the same area =7c. hale bopp is much longer and way harder!!! the 8a:s of fontainebleau are supposed to be solid, not soft...
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