Le Mur du Son   7c (7c+)

opened by : Bernard Théret
area : Petit Bois
type : wall / crimps

circuit : black 31bis

description : to the left of Arc Angel, in a corridor.

Reactions about this boulder

Is it a sit start? posted by Olivier ~ 02.03.2004 12:38

Otherwise its more like 7a.

sittstart? posted by simon ~ 03.03.2004 14:42

yeah it feelt more like 7a whit a standup!

sittstart?? posted by simon brismo ~ 09.03.2004 11:35

fuck yeah! more like a Swedish 6c+

beta? posted by J.P ~ 11.03.2004 17:16

Maybe you guys can share some beta then? (since I still haven´t managed to drag my ass up the damn thing...) I find it guite hard to fall into the left hand crimp (the one he holds with left hand on picture.

Standing start (+ how many crash pads) ? [fr] posted by Anyone concerned ~ 11.03.2004 18:08

"Easy" for tall guys who can take directly from ground left hand crimp (the one he holds left). I personally did it that way (I'm tall) and sounds indeed 7a like that. For shorter people, it's another problem...unless you add as many crash pads as necessary to take it.

Problem is still the same with downgrading when boulders are done differently than originally. That one is a good example, another good example is "Mur Lombard" at Franchard Hautes plaines whether you start from a crash pad or really from ground : not at all the same difficulty.

Lastly we've seen a downgrade "campaign" for many problems. I've seen videos of "La memel" and "Les monos". Quite funny ! For sure these problems are respectively 6c+ and 6a for those who are on videos tending to the giant human beeing. No way to compare with "standart-sized" climbers. So please, giants, don't downgrade too fast, think about shorter people.

standing (but low start) posted by J.P ~ 12.03.2004 13:22

Ok, if starting from that crimp I can understand the downgrading. But I must honestly say that the line has a natural low start. My friends (who did the problem) agreed on that the boulder starts low and that the crux was indeed finding the balance to fall into the left hand crimp. Reaching/jumping for higher holds or standing on multiple mats doesn´t downgrade a problem, only the style in wich you execute it :-)

low start posted by Bostream ~ 27.03.2004 11:35

I also did the low hand start and i can agree that part of the crux was getting the left hand to the hold he has on the picture.

no way! posted by Brownie ~ 27.09.2004 00:13

I did it sittstart and I think its more like swedish 7a+ with att sittstart! You guys suck on crimpers!

Christer posted by Christobal ~ 07.11.2005 08:50

Thank you guys for making us Swedes look like rude A***oles.

jumpstart? posted by jann ~ 10.08.2006 14:41

next week i was there and i took the good richthand crimper and put me left feet on the good foothold and do a precise coordinated jump to the bad lefthand crimper and hold on to it .my question is if this methode is also tolerated? I'm1.79m.

greetz
jan

Nope! posted by Bart ~ 10.08.2006 15:38

No jumpstart in Mur du Son if you want to do the 7c version. The crux is to paste both feet on the wall and then make a dynamic move to the crimper on the left. I think this is a perfect 7c whatever some Swedes have to say about it.

I agree posted by Stonelove ~ 21.02.2007 11:36

with bart. the crux for me was to paste myself on the wall in the first place. getting that left crimper is easier if you have your left foot already up (requires good hip flexibility maybe). and I agree with brownie: if you suck on crimpers, you will have a hard time!

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