Œil pour Œil   7a

opened by : Eric Allayaud
area : La Reconnaissance
type : slightly overhanging / bidoigt

description : on the left side of the boulder of Continuum. Start left with right hand on the pinch underneath the pocket, take the bidoigt without using the holds of Vengeance and exit directly.

Reactions about this boulder

salut bart quelle prise as-tu pris au départ pour chaque main? [fr] posted by nico5 ~ 06.01.2005 19:47

quelle main as-tu mis pour prendre le trou?

Quel main [fr] posted by Bart ~ 06.01.2005 20:33

Main droite: pince
Main gauche: petit gaston à gauche du pince

Pas départ sauté! Premier les deux pieds dans la face (mouvemeent le plus dur du voie) et apres avec ma main gauche (tres vite) au trou.

Sorry, my English is much better! I hope you understand my French!

hi bart [fr] posted by nico5 ~ 07.01.2005 17:03

i will describe you my method in english to be clearer.
i start right hand on a kind of crimp with three or four fingers. i take a little crimp with my nail or something like that. i put my feet on good edges then i go straight to the two finger pocket left hand. the next movements are quite easy.
in my opnion it's quite easy for 7a. i will ask alexis if the real way should start from the arete on the left.
i hope my english is not so bad.

congratulations for your guidebook which very nice and easy to use.
i have also another question. how can i go to the mont simonet near the elephant. there is a lot of boulders which seem to be nice with pockets and i really enjoy to get there. i am expecting your answer.

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