Le Bâtard   8a

opened by : Sébastien Frigault
area : Cuvier Rempart
type : overhang

description : in between Big Golden and Atrésie.

Reactions about this boulder

Big Golden assis? posted by wouter ~ 24.03.2005 11:36

Is 'le batard' the same sitstart as 'atresie assis' and finish in 'big golden', or is this finish in between 'big golden' and 'atresie'? And if it's in between: what about 'big golden assis'?

maybe posted by nico5 ~ 24.03.2005 12:58

i remenber when sébastien did it, he took the same sit start as atrèsie and big golden. he finished between this two ways. see you

answer posted by jibiji ~ 25.03.2005 11:15

I don't know who climbed this first. I remember I did it in 2000 or 01 - no importance. You stard same as Atresie and Big Golden (sit start makes just one more move that doesn't change the grade). Go in Atresie, but instead of the dyno move right hand at the top (with the two crimps), you take the left crimp with the right hand, put your left foot on the sloper at the bottom of the ramp, and you go left with a big shoulder move. The rest is obvious (I think you have to take the ramp in undercling with right hand...).
At your service
JB

thanks posted by wouter ~ 25.03.2005 17:03

Thanks for the reactions. Can I conclude that a sitstart and finish in Big Golden has (as far as we know) not been climbed? By the way, the sitstart ads 2 rather hard moves and not one (start from 2 lowest crimps). If Atresie is 8a and Atresie assis is 8a+, then the sitstart to big golden wich is 7c+ should be 8a. I have to say that it also felt like 8a when I climbed it (last tuesday). Do you agree?

It's was well known that big golden and Trex posted by ~ 25.03.2005 18:24

are very difficult 7c+ (especially Trex wich is now 8a ) . This was due to kind of "joke" between Ocarriere and Jacky (wich had opened famous 7c+ neighbour big boss : then downgraded 7b+ (due to BigGolden proximity ?) then 7c (broken hold) ....

Grade posted by jibiji ~ 29.03.2005 14:10

I Think J. Nadiras had already done sds of Atresie and Big Golden, and indeed, the starting moves add a little difficulty to the initial problems.
Big G., which is already a solid 7c+, must thus become 8a, but I don't like the rule "+0.5 grade", because after the starting moves, you have a huge pocket, then Atresie and Le Bâtard sds may not be 8a+, compared to solid 8a+ like Hip Hop...
I did it several years ago, then if someone else had argument to say sds of these problems are more 8a+, I would listen to it carefully.

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