Bleau.info : forum

Phobos Moon 7c+

opened by : Kees Mak
area : Coquibus Longs Vaux
type : wall / dyno

description : sector Bois de Long Vaux, on the first boulder from the parking, in the wall to the right of Les Assis. Eliminant version doing a far dyno directly from an undercling to the top without taking the other holds.
NB : this problem corresponds to the project n°5 in the topo Coquibus Ouest (sector Fata Morgana).

Reactions about this boulder

7C = correct grade? posted by maarten ~ 03.05.2005 14:04

I am curious if anyone has repeated this problem in the way it was opened and intended (dynoing from the undercut). The grade according to the 'repeaters' is somewhere between 7A and 8A+. I seriously doubt the current Bleau.info 7C grade and think it is at least as hard as Rainbow Rocket 8A...

7C = correct grade? posted by Kamykees ~ 07.02.2006 09:29

the description for Phobos on this website is correct, but i also doubt if 7c is the correct grade. Maybe the repeaters who have some experience in 8a dyno`s can give their opinion about it.
My opinion is still 7c+ or above

7C = correct grade? posted by zinn ~ 09.04.2006 23:03

I have no experience with 8a dyno`s, but I think it is max 7c and more likely to be 7b+.

for sure posted by jann ~ 10.04.2006 10:55

I'am 1.80m and 7c is correct in my opinion.When you are almost 2m it will be 7a+ in place of 8a+!!!Or maybe kees jumps to the second station in the top of the boulder!?Anyway,dynoos and there grades still something to do with how tall you are. Isn't it?

Greetz and jump on !!!
Jan

7b+? posted by Victor ~ 10.04.2006 11:59

In my opinion your height doesn't say much about your ability to do dyno's. Compare it to basketball. When your 2 m or taller, you'll be able to dunk easily. However, there ones was a guy who won the NBA dunk contest when he was only 1.73 m! Small people just have to jump higher.
With respect to Phobos Moon, I don't think this is 7c or harder. I'm 'only' 1.83 and never able to jump an 8a. Nonetheless, I was able to do Phobos Moon pretty quick. I think it is just a matter of the right footholds and a hard push off. There is not much strenght involved in this boulder. I think you can compare it Voltex, which is also 7b+. What ever the correct grade is, it remains a nice line.

Victor

hmm posted by yajay ~ 10.04.2006 12:51

Now i haven't done/tried voltex nor phobos and i wouldn't say im particularly good at dyno's either but one thing is certain:
length CAN be an advantage, if the footholds are close to the hand-holds its hard when youre tall and vice versa.
physical length as a (dis)advantage could not be called upon in a general consensus, but can of course be applied to individual problems. In the end, the relation between grades and their problems are a very personal thing aside from the fact that judging a one-move problem and pinning it down with a number gives VERY little reference..after all, you only have to do one move perfectly..

as for Victor's NBA story, he's referring to Spud Webb i think in which case he is correct and the rest of the competitors were very much taller, he was just fucking good at what he was doing.

note! posted by Kamykees ~ 11.04.2006 22:02

That the massif big stone in your back has cutt away by someone,
So the physical factor gets a lot easier aswell.

And i meen BIG stone with a nice sharp ledge on top. In that condition i`ve opened the problem. Now that it is gone its not scary at all to fall out or miss the top.

peace

p.s length can be an great advantage..But i can name a lot of dyno`s were length is a geat disadvantage

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