Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels   7c

opened by : Patrick Sercki
area : Franchard Hautes-Plaines
type : overhang / sitstart / dyno

description : 60m above Ah, Plus Facile!

Reactions about this boulder

reve de gres posted by chimpansee cachee ~ 31.12.2005 21:55

i heard the project in this boulder has been done a while ago,
I also think it should be mentioned as a seperate problem.

done or project? [fr] posted by fouine ~ 03.01.2006 18:59

is it the project left of "deux faux plats..."?
moi aussi je voudrais savoir si ce projet a été fait et sa difficulté. Si ce n'est pas le cas, il le mériterais car ça à l'air de faire un bon mouvement dynamique bien basique.

salut

Quelle ligne? [fr] posted by ;; ~ 04.01.2006 09:37

La ligne à gauche dont tu parles, est-ce celle qui sort dans l'axe central? On voit sur la photo un grimpeur qui semble sortir à droite du sommet par une version qui n'utilise pas un plat blanchi à sa gauche. Si oui , cette version en plein centre vaut 7c (et nous semblait celle proposée par l'ouvreur). La version de droite est bien plus facile à mon avis (celle de la photo).
Différents jeux ont été fait sur ce bloc dont un départ très à droite pour sortir dans l'axe central.
Pas de renseignement pour une version encore plus à gauche mais infos bien venues.
J'en profite pour vous souhaiter à tous plein de belles escalades pour 2006.

a to q posted by bleeker ~ 09.01.2006 22:54

the central line (and purest line) on the boulder is Deux etc. graded 7C. basically use anything you need to get up to the top, which is easiest on the right side.

the project listed was one starting low right and exiting far left via the sloper, without using the 'arete' on the right side. i climbed this line a few months ago but there's a lot of mysticism about it. noone really knows if it was done previous. i have limited experience in this grade and type of boulder but based on the grade for 'Deux..' (7C) i suggested 7C+. i have no experience with grades higher but found it to be conciderably harder that Deux FPEPR.

From what ive gathered this is the project listed in Bart's 7+8 topo but is more an eliminant than a boulder on its own. In keeping with the original purity of Font, and as the forest is increasingly littered with elim's and other strange rallongee's i think it might even be better not to list it.

happy travels and a properous forever, not just '06

congratulations posted by fouine ~ 10.01.2006 10:33

yes man. well done. it´s the line i´ve tryed, i think it´s a good pure line with one dynamic move and will it could be dommage to don´t list it because it´s not a very conventionnal boulder... only start and left exit with every holds!

nieske posted by jonasbracke ~ 19.08.2006 09:03

jan de smit climbed this version on 30/12/2005 and had then suggested to name it "nieske". But I think because it is an eliminant it hasn't been added to the database, although it is very nice.

New reaction

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