Double Détente   7b (7a+)

opened by : Olivier Lebreton
area : Mont Pivot
gps  : N48.380140 E2.511710
type : overhang / sitstart

description : 50m underneath Belle Gueule (dyno is 7a+).

Reactions about this boulder

7a+ dyno ? posted by jonasbracke ~ 16.01.2006 16:00

Does this mean that the 7a+ version is the one where you jump with your hands on the right and left edge straight to the top and that the 7c version is the one where you have the sitstart deep in the hole followed by that dynamic move ??
jojo

ik denk posted by jann ~ 18.01.2006 09:53

Infact when you start deep on two sidepulls and do the dyno than you have 7c,and when you do the direct version what means start whit two hands on the two crimpers and do the dyno of the 7c version its 7a+!see you soon.
jaja

Still don't get it posted by Victor ~ 08.06.2006 18:47

Hi guys,

I still don't get it. According to the 7+8 guide the 7a+ is the jump start. This can't be right, because jumping of the ground straight to the jug is a 6a (even when your little) at most. According to you guys it seems that the 7a+ is jumping from the two edges to the top and starting on the side pulls is 7c. This is hard to believe, because the difference between the two (one) move from the side pulls to the edges are very easy. These moves cannot add over 2 graqdes to the problem. Hope anyone can explain.

Victor

maybe posted by nico5 ~ 08.06.2006 23:54

i'm not sure but i see a kind of explanation t this variant. near the sidepull, you can get an undercling and another hold that i have forget. for the 7a+ means that you start as in my method put your feet on the boulder and jump to the jug. but this is my opinion that needed to be confirmed.

doubts posted by zinn ~ 09.06.2006 13:31

I have doubts about the grades as well. In my opinion:

Jump start = 6a
Start at undercling and dyno = 6c
Start from the two edges and dyno = 7a+
Start at side pulls, go to the two edges and dyno = 7b
Start at side pulls, go to the undercling and dyno = I didn`t try, but I gues 7a

greetz Jaap

no way 7c posted by daveparry ~ 21.12.2006 21:03

we did this problem starting sitting at the juggy sidepulls, via the edges this is about 7a+ or even 7a. To put it into context i flashed this problem and then failed to climb Belle Gueule on the same day!

After this we even tried dynoing straight out from the starting jugs to the ledge (eliminating the edges) and this would still only be about 7bish, its more scary than hard. I don't see any way you could get a 7c out of this problem, unless a really bad sequence is used. its a great 7a+ problem.

New reaction

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