Bleau.info : Grande Montagne : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the parking lot of La Vallée de la Mée (Le Vaudoué), follow Le chemin de la Mée for 600m and turn right at Le Chemin des Béorlots just after the crossing towards Le Rocher du Potala. The start of the orange circuits can be found in plot 148 by going to the North 300m further, next to the Sentier des 25 bosses.

1Passage à Tabac 6ctraverse frtl / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart with the jug underneath orange n°5, traverse to the left, pass the angle and exit just after.
2Le Véli-Pongiste 6ctraverse fltr / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] sitstart at a jug in the face of orange n°5, traverse to the right and exit in the belly.
3Le Porte-Clés 6cwall / mantle-
 [ 1 photo ] direct mantle at the start of orange n°7.
4Help Me 7b (7b+)traverse fltr / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart in the corridor to the right of orange n°7, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit in the right face. NB : it is also possible to continue to the right with the ledge in order to exit in Hurrican.
5Formi-Cas 6a+ (6b)wall / mantle-
 [ 1 photo ] start to the left of Hurrican above a small boulder and exit either directly of in Hurrican.
6Hurrican 7aarete / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 photos ] on the backside of the boulder of Elle et Vire. Sitstart with the two hands in the big jug, take the left arete and exit via a mantle on slopers.
7Drôle de Drame 7c+ (8a)traverse / slopersBernard Théret
***** start at the arrival of Fouette Cocher, traverse to the right in the whole face and exit in Elle-et-Vire. NB : il is also possible to sittart as for Hurrican, and to traverse in an often wet conch with a cumbersome tree up to the start of the classical version.
8Fouette Cocher 7atraverse frtlBernard Théret
*****  [ 4 photos ] on the boulder of orange n°9. Sitstart with the low ledge between two stones as for Elle et Vire but traverse to the left and exit completely at the end of the boulder (20-25 moves).
9Elle-et-Vire 7barete / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 7 photos ] on the boulder of orange n°9. Sitstart with the low ledge between two stones, traverse to the right on the ledge and exit via the arete.
9Élodivire 6c (7a)mantle / sitstart / crimps-
***** on the boulder of orange n°9. Sitstart with crimps between two stones, dyno to the ledge as for A HREF="http://bleau.info/grandemontagne/11451.html">Elle-et-Vire, but exit directly by a mantle in the crimpsy upper slab.
10Whitesnake 6cslightly overhanging / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart in orange n°9 and exit to the left in the overhang.
11Poison d'Orgueil 7awall-
 [ 2 photos ] eliminate to the left of orange n°11. NB : the convention of this problem is not very clear.
12Perte de Mémoire 6c+ (7a)traverse fltr / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the right face of the boulder of orange n°11. Sitstart under the dead tree with a pocket and traverse to the right with the ledge.
13Névralgie 6b (6b+)wall / crimpsBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] on the right face of the boulder of orange n°13.
13bNévralgie Sourde 6a (6b)wall / traverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the right face of the boulder of orange n°13. Start as for Névralgie, traverse to the right with the ledge to the downclimbing jug of orange n°14 and exit above.
14Le Coulissant 6aarete / sitstart-
sitastart of the angle to the left of orange n°8.
15Alerte au Malibu 6b (6b+)slightly overhanging / sitstartBernard Théret
on the boulder of orange n°15, along the red path. Start in the crimpsy face and exit with the ledge.
16Le Fil 4+ (5-)wall / arete-
vertical problem at the angle to the left of orange n°8.
17Funambulus 7b+ (7c)traverse frtl / slopersBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] traverse on two faces on the boulder of orange n°16. Sitstart at the orange bis number, traverse to the left with top holds, pass the round angle, continue on slopers and exit at the end of the face, after the tree, at an orange arrow. NB : to be rebrushed (April 2009).
18Charbons Ardents 7btraverse fltr / slightly overhangingBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the right face of the boulder of orange n°23. Start completely left with a vertical hold, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face. NB : to be rebrushed (April 2009).
19Pro-Fusion 7b (7a+)wall / arete / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart on the right face at the start of Tokamak.
20Tokamak 7atraverse frtl / pocketsBernard Théret
*****  [ 7 photos ] to the opposite of orange n°22. Sitstart on the right side of the arete, with a crimp right hand, traverse to the left and exit in the overhang with slopers. NB : the non conventional start with with both hands on the large pocket on the right doesn't change the grade in a significant way.
20Trans-Fusion 7b (7b+)wall / arete / traverse fltrGérald Coste / Jean-Hervé Baudot
***** sitstart on the left under the exit of Tokamak, traverse on jugs and exit by the angle of Pro-Fusion.
21Zone d'Ombre 5+slightly overhanging / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart underneath orange n°24 with the two hands in the horizontal crack and exit by the pillar.
22La Puce à l'Oreille 6barete / slightly overhanging / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart of a small boulder 30m from orange n°6, by following a small path.
23Le Dendrobate 7aroof / pockets / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a small overhanging boulder 60m from orange n°6, by following a small path. Sitstart to the right of the roof, low traverse to the left, come back to the right in the overhang and exit to the right of the arete.
24Picotements 6a+ (6b)traverse frtl / crimpsBernard Théret
to the opposite of Le Dendrobate, on a boulder 60m from orange n°6, by following a small path. Start completely right at a tree, to the left of Le Poisson Lune, traverse on crimps and exit at the end of the face.
25Le Poisson-Lune 6a+ (6b)roof / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] to the opposite of Le Dendrobate, on a boulder 60m from orange n°6, by following a small path. Sitstart under the angle, make an ascending traverse to the right and exit just after.
27Ronds dans l'Eau 5+wall / sitstart-
 [ 2 photos ] sitstart to the right of the 25 Bosses path, before orange n°28.
28Rue Piétonne 6c (7a)traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] along the 25 Bosses path, to the opposite of orange n°32. Sitstart to the right of the angle, climb this one, continue on the left and exit at the end of the ledge. 6c with the big jug at the middle of the traverse and 7a otherwise.
29La Biaiseraie 6awall-
 [ 2 photos ] on the boulder to the opposite of orange n°33. Low start to the right with a pocket.
30La Déchirure 7aslightly overhanging / pockets / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] left problem on the boulder of orange n°32. Sitstart in the middle of the face with an horizontal crimp, traverse to the left with pockets and exit at the top of the overhang.
31Jeu de Paumes 6awall / sitstart-
central problem on the boulder of orange n°32. Sitstart to the left with a pocket.
32Club GR1 5+ (6a)wall / sitstart-
sitstart to the right, on the boulder of orange n°32.
33Vague à Lames 7a+ (7b)traverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder just right of orange n°35. Start at the small face on the left, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit by a mantle at the end of the face.
34Le Pilier de la Grande Montagne 6b+ (6b)pillar / highJ. Arrivepas
 [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] on an isolated boulder in the middle of the slope, 100m from the first part of the orange circuit. 6a+/6b with the jug in the right face and 6b/6b+ directly.
35Rêve de Printemps 8a (7c)traverse fltr / slopersJean-Christophe Guibout
*****  [ 17 photos ] 12m long traverse (30 moves) on the boulder of orange n°70, 10m underneath orange n°45 by following the 25 Bosses path after the bifurcation with the GR1. Start to the right of orange n°70, traverse on slopers, pass a crack and exit at a tree after the angle.
36Roncevaux 6caretePepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of orange n°44.
37Le Lotus Rouge 7atraverse fltr / underclingsBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] take the paved part of Le Chemin des Béorlots passing underneath Le Surplomb de la Mée and turn left at Le Chemin de la Grande Montagne; the boulder is 50m to far, along the path, with a red and white painted mark. There and back is 7b.
38Collet Monté 6cslightly overhanging / pockets-
in the slope, to the left of Le Chemin des Béorlots. Start between two boulders and exit to the left.

 

Outside the topo

Infinitif 7atraverse fltrPepito
***** on the boulder of orange n°9 and Elle-et-Vire. Sitstart as for Hurrican, traverse in an often wet conch with a cumbersome tree, pass an angle, continue in the second face (back traverse of Fouette Cocher) and exit just after the tree above the start of that one.
n°32 orange assis 7a+ (7b)slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstartTony Fouchereau
***** on the boulder of La Déchirure. Sitstart with good holds, make a dynamic move and exit in orange n°32; morpho.
La Machine à Vapeur 6barete / highBlokeur / Jean-Pierre Briand
***** climb the arete right hand on the left face of Pilier de la Grande Montagne, on an isolated boulder in the middle of the slope, 100m from the first part of the orange circuit.
Mèche Courte 6ctraverse frtl / slopers / sitstartPepito
***** sitstart 1m to the left of orange n°46, traverse to the left on slopers and exit after the second step.
Lost in Space 7a+dynoNeil Hart / Mike Mullins
***** just left of orange n°38. Direct dyno from the ledge to the top without using the arete of the orange problem by convention.

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