Bleau.info : Rocher Gréau : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

1	La Mousse 6a	traverse fltr	-
traverse to the right on the first boulder of the area, to the left of the big one with La Pyramide.
2	Chaos 8b	roof / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
sitstart of Le Toit du Gréau.
3	Le Toit du Gréau 8a (8a+)	roof	Olivier Lebreton
first roof in Greau (sitstart 8b by J. Nadiras)
4	Peu ou Prou 7a+	prow / slightly overhanging	Philippe Le Denmat
direct exit arete of Chaos, near the parking lot.
5	Entrée en Matière 5+	wall / slab	-
left problem, without the arete, on the face of La Pyramide, on a boulder to the right of Le Toit du Gréau.
6	Les Feux de la Rampe 6a	wall / crack	-
to the left of La Pyramide, on a boulder to the right of Le Toit du Gréau. Start with the ramp and exit via the big crack.
7	La Pyramide 6b	wall / crack	-
on a boulder to the right of Le Toit du Gréau. Start without the ramp and exit with a vertical crack.
8	Chauffe Marcel 5+	slab / arete	-
on the backside of the boulder of La Pyramide, with the arete left hand.
9	Rappelle toi Minette 6c	slab	-
on the backside of the boulder just right of that of La Pyramide, to the right of Le Toit du Gréau when arriving in the park.
10	Droit d'Option 5+ (6a)	-	-
on the boulder to the South of La Pyramide. Direct exit is 6a.
11	Le Pitbull 6b	slightly overhanging / pockets / expo	-
on the North-East face of a boulder in between La Pyramide and Oliver Twist.
12	Touché Coulé 6a	-	-
on the boulder to the left of Oliver Twist.
13	Un Monde de Brutes 6b	slightly overhanging / high	-
on the boulder to the right of Jeu t'es Fou, without the good holds on the right.
14	Oliver Twist 7a+ (7a)	overhang / crack	Olivier Carrière
underneath Jeu t'es Fou.
14	Oliver Twist assis 7b+	overhang / crack / sitstart	-
sitstart of Oliver Twist, on the boulder underneath Jeu t'es Fou.
15	L'Abbé Réta 6b	wall / slab / mantle	-
right problem on the North face of the characteristic boulder in between the entrance of the park and Les Conquistadores.
16	Plein Gaz 4+	wall / slab / high	-
easiest problem on the North face of the characteristic boulder in between the entrance of the park and Les Conquistadores.
17	La Tour Infernale 6c	wall / pillar / toprope	-
evident pillar on the characteristic boulder in between the entrance of the park and Les Conquistadores.
18	Le Dernier Cri 6c	wall / toprope	-
on the East face of the characteristic boulder in between the entrance of the park and Les Conquistadores.
19	Consolation 6b	overhang / wall	-
on a boulder underneath Conquistadores. Start as for the overhang of Jeu t'es Fou but exit by using the big holds on the left.
20	Jeu t'es Fou 7a	overhang / arete	Bruno Karaboghossian
on the boulder underneath Les Conquistadores, to the left of Tigre et Dragon. Start in the overhang, dyno to pinches on the right (without using the good holds on the left) and exit via the arete.
20	Jeu t'es Fou assis 7c	roof / arete / sitstart	-
on the North side of the boulder of Tigre et Dragon. Sitstart of Jeu t'es Fou.
21	Frisson 8a+	roof / crack	Sébastien Frigault
follow an overhanging crack after starting on the right angle, exit in Jeu t'es Fou.
22	Tigre et Dragon 8a	arete	Olivier Lebreton
behind Les Conquistadores, in 30m distance. Update (October 2006) : the bidoigt hold seems to has become fragile; be prudent when trying this problem!
23	Choucroute Système 5+	crack	-
on the backside of the boulder of Jeu t'es Fou. Follow the crack to the right and exit at the top of the boulder.
24	Le Compte à Rebours 7a	overhang / toprope	Eric Létot
underneath Les Conquistadores, on the opposite face of Jeu t'es Fou.
25	Le Dièdre 5+	slab / dihedral	-
on the right side of the boulder of LesConquistadores; exit in the slab. Update : lichened (may 2005).
26	Mégalithe 7c+ (7c)	arete	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of Les Conquistadores.
26	Mégalithe assis 7c+	arete / high / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
on the boulder of Conquistadores. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit via the arete of Mégalithe.
27	Les Conquistadores 7b (7a+)	wall / crimps / high	Philippe Le Denmat
climb the slightly overhanging wall to the left of Mégalithe and exit by using the top of the crack after the pocket.
27	Les Conquistadores direct 7b+	wall / crimps / high	-
to the left of Mégalithe. Start as for Les Conquistadores and exit directly straight to the slopers and crimps from the pocket without using the upper part of the crack.
27	Les Cons qui s'Adorent 6c (7a)	wall / crimps / dyno	Franck Meurou
start as for Les Conquistadores, traverse to the left and exit by a dyno to the pocket to the left of the exit crack of that problem.
28	Cocotte Minute 6a	wall / crack	-
to the left of Conquistadores.
29	Médecine Douce 5+	underclings / mantle	-
on the left side of the boulder of Les Conquistadores.
30	- 6a	mantle / slopers	-
mantle on a bowl, to the right of Caprice des Lieux, on the boulder between Les Conquistadores and Faux-Fuyant.
31	Caprice des Lieux 6b	wall	-
right problem on the wall between Les Conquistadores and Faux-Fuyant.
32	Le Pied de Nez 6c	slightly overhanging / crack / slopers	-
left problem on the boulder to the opposite of Faux-Fuyant when going down towards Tigre et Dragon. Start with the good creshent-shaped hold right hand, take a crack left hand and exit on the right via slopers.
32	Le Pied de Nez assis 7a+ (7a)	wall / sitstart	Olivier Roman / Franck Meurou
sitstart of the left problem on the boulder to the opposite of Faux-Fuyant when going down towards Tigre et Dragon. Sitstart 1m to the right of the standing start of Le Pied de Nez with round pockets and traverse slightly to the left towards the creshent-shaped hold of that one.
33	Atahualpa 4+	slab	Antoine Saint-Pierre
direct slab to the opposite of Pied de Nez, on the right face of the boulder of Pentium. 3c/4a with the left ledge.
34	Faux Fuyant / Pentium 7b+ (7b)	wall / arete / slopers	Bernard Théret / Julien Nadiras
on a small boulder between Little Big Boss and Les Conquistadores.
35	Serre Moi la Pince 6a	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
in a pit, on the West face of the boulder of Pentium / Faux Semblant.
36	Afroman 7c+	sitstart / overhang	Julien Nadiras
on the backside of the boulder with Faux Fuyant / Pentium. Sitstart in the pit to the left of Serre Moi la Pince.
37	Le Rince-Doigts 6a	slab	-
on the backside of a boulder between Little Big Boss and Jeu t'es Fou; exit with the good hold.
38	Little Big Boss 7b+	overhang / crack / sitstart	Bernard Théret / Bruno Karaboghossian
low sitstart of the 6b standing version of Little Big Boss. Same grade variant by Thierry Guéguen and Tony Fouchereau : traverse right on underclings instead of the direct exit.
38	Little Big Boss debout 6b	slightly overhanging / crack	-
standing start from the stone in the overhang, on the boulder to the left of Faux Fuyant / Pentium.
38b	Prédilection 7c+	overhang / sitstart	Benoit Pelissier
sitstart in Little Big Boss, traverse to the left and exit in the 7b+ variant of Énergie Renouvelable, just left of the prow.
39	Énergie Renouvelable 7b+	prow	Tony Fouchereau
on the prow 2m to the left of Little Big Boss. Start as for Hic et Nunc and Supplément d'Armes and exit directly, slightly right of the prow.
39	Énergie Renouvelable assis 7c+	overhang / prow / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Little Big Boss. Sitstart and exit in Énergie Renouvelable, slightly right of the prow.
39	Supplément d'Armes 7b	overhang / wall	Thierry Guéguen
start to the left of Little Big Boss and end to the left in La Traversée des Poires. NB : it is also possible to exit just left of the prow (7b+).
39	Supplément d'Armes assis 7c (7c+)	overhang / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Supplément d'Armes, on the boulder of Little Big Boss.
40	Hic et Nunc 7c	overhang	Thierry Guéguen
start to the left of Little Big Boss, and end in this problem.
40	Hic et Nunc assis 8a (7c+)	overhang / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Hic et Nunc, on the boulder of Little Big Boss.
41	La Directe des Poires 6c	slab / high	-
direct slab to the right of Patience Yago.
41	La Traversée des Poires 6b	slab	-
to the right of Patience Yago. Start in La Directe des Poires but take the easy exit to the right.
42	Patience Yago 7a	slab / crimps / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
in the left face of Little Big Boss. Start left in the pit and exit directly, to the left of the spit (6c with a right exit by La Directe des Poires).
43	Le Flamant Rose 6a	-	-
on the second boulder to the West of La Directe des Poires.
44	L'Arête Meurtrière 6a	arete / toprope	-
arete right hand on a boulder to the North-West of La Directe des Poires.
45	Balade Sentimentale 5-	arete	-
arete left hand on a boulder to the North-West of La Directe des Poires.
46	Gros Bourrin 6c	mantle / toprope	-
to the right of Balade Sentimentale, on a boulder to the North-West of La Directe des Poires.
47	- 6c (6b+)	overhang / pockets / sitstart	-
sitstart of the small overhang just above Faux Fuyant / Pentium.
48	Fric-Frac 7c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
on the boulder to the opposite and slightly left of Tigre et Dragon. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with two crimps and exit in the slightly overhanging wall.
		Outside the topo
Lundi de Pentecôte 7a		slab	Eric Létot
in the sector Pyrénées, to the left of Plein Vol. Access : from a small parking lot 500m after the town hall, follow the GR up to a pont of view. The boulder is on the West face of the slope.
Arête Tupilak 7b		arete	Emmanuel Ratouis
in the sector Pyrénées, just right of Plein Vol. Access : from a small parking lot 500m after the town hall, follow the GR up to a pont of view. The boulder is on the West face of the slope.
Plein Vol 7c+		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
in the sector Pyrénées, to the left of L'Arête Tupilak. Access : from a small parking lot 500m after the town hall, follow the GR up to a pont of view. The boulder is on the West face of the slope.
Rive Droite, Rive Gauche 7a		arete	Philippe Le Denmat
80m to the South-West of Les Conquistadores, on the tagged boulder near the top of the slope.
Accelerator 7b		arete / toprope	Olivier Lebreton
8m high arete in the sector Pyrénées, generally climbed toprope. Access : from a small parking lot 500m after the town hall, follow the GR up to a pont of view. The boulder is just underneath the path.
L'Art Est à Genoux 7b+		arete / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
in the sector Pyrénées. Sitstart of the evident arete on boulder to the right of Plein Vol. Access : from a small parking lot 500m after the town hall, follow the GR up to a pont of view. The boulder is on the West face of the slope.

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