Bleau.info : Gros Sablons : Topo

thanks to Eric Allayaud

From the parking lot of a Croix Saint-Jérôme, follow Le Chemin de la Vallée Close fo 1km up to a sandy area (with the 95.2 on your right and the monument on your left).
For the classical sector (Pignons East and West), go round the 95.2 and take the Chemin du Pied des Monts for 500m/800m.
For the Pignon North sector, follow the Chemin des Cassis for 100m to find the start of the orange circuit n°2. Interesting traverse can also be found 100m further, near the intersection with the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons).

1Ultime Esquisse 7a+traverse frtlEric Allayaud
 [ 2 photos ] sandy traverse on the boulder to the right of orange n°15 bis (circuit AD n°2), 50m above Le Chemin des Cassis.
2Tricot Stérile 6a+traverse frtl / wallEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] sector Chemin des Cassis, on the boulder to the right of orange n°20. Traverse to the left and exit in the wall.
3Doliprane 6b+slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sector Chemin des Cassis. Sitstart to the right of orange n°8.
4Au Grès du Vent 7atraverse frtlEric Allayaud
*****  [ 16 photos ] on the boulder to the left of orange n°26, 20m above le Chemin des Cassis, before its crossing with le circuit des 25 bosses. Right to left traverse (30 moves) passing over a small tree. The reverse traverse is also possible (at least the same difficulty), as well as the there and back traverse (7b).
5Sensuelle et Sans Suite 6ctraverse fltrEric Allayaud
sector Chemin des Cassis, on the backside of the boulder of orange n°24.
6L'Océane 6atraverse fltrEric Allayaud
***** sector Chemin des Cassis, on the boulder to the right of orange n°28.
8Haut et Court 7a (7a+)traverse frtlEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of the 25 bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons), 10m above the crossing with Le Chemin des Cassis.
9Fille ou Garçon 7btraverse fltrEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 17 photos ] on the right of "le sentier des 25 bosses", above Haut et Court. Start completely left, traverse the three faces using slopers and pockets and exit via the arete on the right.
10Balade pour Manon 7btraverse fltr / pocketsEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] on the big boulder behind Haut et Court, 10m to the right of the 25 bosses path. Low traverse and exit in the overhang via pockets.
11Le Petit Monde 6ctraverse fltr / overhangEric Allayaud
 [ 6 photos ] sector Chemin des Cassis, 10m to the right of the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons). Traverse to the right and exit in the overhang.

 

Outside the topo

L'Enfer des Zombies 7c+ (8a)roofChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 2 photos ] beyond 95.2, follow Le Chemin de la Vallee Close till the end of the sea of sand, and go left diagonally up the hill via the GR. The boulder is just underneath the ridge to the right. (GPS: N48.388260 E2.536200)
Casus Belli 7a (7a+)slabOlivier Penel
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of Le Mobile (black n°14).
Chérie, j'ai Rétréci / L'Évasion 7a (6c+)wall / aretePhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 5 photos ] to the right of L'Angle Gauche (black n°29); take the right side arete and use crimps in the wall.NB : this problem is also called "L'Évasion" in some topos.
L'Œil du Cyclone 7awallOlivier Penel
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 realvideos ]  [ 11 photos ] Les Jambes (black n°9) with ground start.
La Balade de la Vipère 6ctraverse fltr / arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sector Chemin des Cassis, on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Low traverse to the right as for Balade pour Manon but exit via the arete of La Vipère.
La Vipère 7a+traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] sector Chemin des Cassis, on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Sitstart to the right, traverse (back of Balade pour Manon) and exit in the slightly overhanging arete.
Dix sur Dix 7bwall / arete / crimpsPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 photo ] 1m50 to the left of La Colique (black n°10). (GPS: N48.384670 E2.538630)
Le Petit Joueur de Bloc 7b+traverse fltr-
***** to the left of Le Hachoir (black n°25). Start completely left in a blue problem, downclimb the cracks of black n°25, pass the crack of black n°25 bis, go up, continue to traverse to the right, downclimb a third crack (blue number) and exit to the right in an orange bis problem.
La Voie du Ciel 8ahigh / topropeJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** orange marble wall between black n°15 and black n°16.
La Grande Arête 7aarete / expoMarc Montchaussé
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 11 photos ] to the right of La Pipicaca (black n°35).
La Baraka 7aslabPhilippe Le Denmat
 [ 1 photo ] 50m behind La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), on the boulder to the left of Loup-Garou and Hurlement, just underneath the ridge on the intersection of the GR. NB : lichenous (november 2005).
Loup-Garou 7bwall / crimpsDaniel Dulac
*****  [ 1 photo ] two boulders to the left of L'Ordure (black n°33), 40m above La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), just underneath the ridge. Problem to the right of Hurlement.
Hurlement 7c+roof / areteSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 1 photo ] two boulders to the left of L'Ordure (black n°33), 40m above La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), just underneath the ridge. Problem to the left of Loup-Garou. Exit traversing left along the lip of the roof to finish up along the arete.
Bibop 7c+expoStéphane Brette
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of Le Suppositoire (black n°23).
La Rampe 7aarete / traverse fltr / slopersJo Montchaussé
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 13 photos ] to the left of L'Escalier (black n°28). Start with a dyno (slightly morpho), climb the round arete and exit as for La Fissure de la Liberté.
Anachorète 7croof / crack / sitstartJean-Pierre Bouvier
in bivouac alongside the GR following the ridge in between the yellow and the orange circuit
Fishgretor 7awall / crackFrançois Louvel
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the second boulder to the left of La Piscine, with the same orientation.
Le Pilier 6bpillar / highPepito
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] opposite to Bande Première (black n°34), 50m underneath La Fissure de la Liberté
Guet-Apens 6b+traverse frtlEric Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of the 25 Bosses path (Tour des Trois Pignons), justabove Le Chemin des Cassis.
Être ou Paraître 6btraverse fltrEric Allayaud
***** sector Chemin des Cassis, on the boulder of orange n°23.
Les Orbites 6aslightly overhanging / bidoigt / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] sector Chemin des Cassis, on the backside of the big boulder 10m above Haut et Court, to the right of the 25 Bosses path. Sitstart and exit in the slightly overhanging wall via bidoigts.
- 2--
Chair d'Ampoule 7awall / crack / expoLoïc Le Denmat
 [ 1 photo ] 20m underneath La Fissure de la Liberté, between Le Hachoir (black n°25) and the bis number on its right.
Canyon 5crackYano Salaün
to the left of Obsidienne, 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Obsidienne 7b (7b+)pillar / crimpsYano Salaün
***** 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Obsidienne assis 7b+pillar / crimps / sitstartYano Salaün
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of Obsidienne, 50m to the left of L'Enfer des Zombies, on the South-West face of a boulder along the 25 Bosses path.
Le Bel Inconnu 6bwall-
 [ 1 photo ] 10m to the right and above Obsidienne, along a path that goes up the hill from the Vallée Close.

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