Bleau.info : Gros Sablons : Topo

thanks to Eric Allayaud

From the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme, follow Le Chemin de la Vallée Close fo 1km up to a sandy area (with the 95.2 on your right and the monument on your left).
For the classical sector (Pignons East and West), go round the 95.2 and take Le Chemin du Pied des Monts for 500m/800m.

		Outside the topo
Casus Belli 7a (7a+)		slab	Olivier Penel
on the boulder to the left of Le Mobile (black n°14).
Chérie, j'ai Rétréci / L'Évasion 7a (6c+)		wall / arete	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of L'Angle Gauche (black n°29); take the right side arete and use crimps in the wall.NB : this problem is also called "L'Évasion" in some topos.
L'Œil du Cyclone 7a		wall	Olivier Penel
Les Jambes (black n°9) with ground start.
Dix sur Dix 7b		wall / arete / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
1m50 to the left of La Colique (black n°10). (GPS: N48.384670 E2.538630)
Le Petit Joueur de Bloc 7a+ (7b)		traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
to the left of Le Hachoir (black n°25), on the boulder underneath and to the left of La Fissure de la Liberté. Start completely left in a blue problem, pass the angle, low traverse at the cracks of black n°25, climb the crack of black n°25 bis diagonally to the right, downclimb a third crack (blue number) and exit to the right in an orange bis problem.
La Voie du Ciel 8a		high / toprope	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
orange marble wall between black n°15 and black n°16.
La Grande Arête 7a		arete / expo	Marc Montchaussé
to the right of La Pipicaca (black n°35).
La Baraka 7a		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
50m above La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), on the boulder to the left of Loup-Garou and Hurlement, just underneath the ridge on the intersection of the GR. NB : lichenous (March 2011).
Loup-Garou 7b		wall / crimps	Daniel Dulac
two boulders to the left of L'Ordure (black n°33), 40m above La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), just underneath the ridge. Problem to the right of Hurlement.
Hurlement 7c+		roof / arete	Sébastien Frigault
two boulders to the left of L'Ordure (black n°33), 40m above La Fissure de la Liberté (end of the black circuit), just underneath the ridge. Problem to the left of Loup-Garou. Exit traversing left along the lip of the roof to finish up along the arete.
Bibop 7c+		slightly overhanging / expo	Stéphane Brette
to the left of Le Suppositoire (black n°23).
La Rampe 7a		arete / traverse fltr / slopers	Jo Montchaussé
to the left of L'Escalier (black n°28). Start with a dyno (slightly morpho), climb the round arete and exit as for La Fissure de la Liberté.
Fishgretor 7a		wall / crack	François Louvel
on the second boulder to the left of La Piscine, with the same orientation.
Le Pilier 6b		pillar / high	Pepito
to the opposite of Bande Première (black n°34), 50m underneath La Fissure de la Liberté.
Chair d'Ampoule 7a		wall / crack / expo	Loïc Le Denmat
in the boulder of Le Hachoir (black n°25), underneath and to the left of La Fissure de la Liberté. Start in the crack n°25 bis noir and exit directly.
Fatal Bazooka 7b		overhang / sitstart	Olivier Lebreton
in the overhang underneath Fishgretor and La Piscine (black n°4). Sitstart (without crash-pad), climb the overhang with pockets and exit by a mantle on the right (slightly more difficult with a direct exit).
Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum 7c (7c+)		arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the left of Le Mobile (black n°14). Sitstart and climb the arete to the left of Casus Belli.
Hypothyroïdie 7a+ (7b)		arete / expo / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
small long-drying arete on the boulder to the left of n°3 noir. Sitstart and exit either to the left or to the right (same difficulty).
Soo-Nah-Mee 7a+		arete / expo / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
to the left of black n°7, on the boulder of La Piscine. Sitstart on a stone and exit directly by the arete without touching the boulder on the right.
Objectif Lunule 6b		slightly overhanging	-
on the boulder of the traverse of blue n°26, in the overhang under Casus Belli and black n°14. Standing start in the overhang, take a marbled crimp left hand and a sloper right hand and exit above with a characteristic pierced pocket.
Objectif Lunule assis 7a		slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the boulder of the traverse of blue n°26, in the overhang under Casus Belli and black n°14. Sitstart (without crash-pad), climb the overhang, take a marbled crimp left hand and a sloper right hand and exit above with a characteristic pierced pocket.
La Flèche Noire 6c (7a)		arete / prow	-
old black arrow on the South face of the boulder of the traverse of blue n°26, in the overhang under Casus Belli and black n°14. Standing start at a thin crack and exit by a mantle above. NB : a sitstart is also possible (same difficulty).
Langue de Terre 5+ (6a)		slopers / mantle	J. Arrivepas
on the South face of the boulder of the traverse of blue n°26, in the overhang under Casus Belli and black n°14. Standing start to the left of La Flèche Noire and exit by a mantle above.
La Bonne Attitude 7b+ (7c)		arete	Gérald Coste
20m above Bibop and black n°23. Standing start and climb the arete without using the back boulder.
La Bonne Attitude assis 7c+ (8a)		arete / sitstart	Thomas Collignon
20m above Bibop and black n°23. Sitstart and climb the arete without using the back boulder.

© 1994-2012 bleau.info