Bleau.info : Restant du Long Rocher Nord : Topo

thanks to David Evrard

At the Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, take the D58 in direction of Bourron-Marlotte and continue by turning right 2km500 after (Carrefour de Diane) for 3km800 till the entrance of Bourron-Marlotte. Take La Route de la Grande Vallée on the right and then La Route de la Plaine Verte, and park the car at its end. Walk up the slope in the thalweg by La Route du Languedoc (the name is not marked) up to the plateau and the blue path. La Grotte Béatrix is just right and the orange circuit and recent variants are on the other side, in the North face.
For the other sectors of this wide area, see the principal sector and the Grandes Vallées sector.

		Circuit AD orange (nº 1)
1	- 2+	wall	-
2	- 2	-	-
3	- 2	slab	-
4	- 2+	-	-
5	- 2+	wall / crack	-
5 bis	- 3+	slightly overhanging	-
6	- 3	arete	-
7	- 4-	slab	-
7 bis	- 4-	slab	-
8	- 2	-	-
9	- 3	crack	-
10	- 3	-	-
11	- 2	-	-
12	- 3+	-	-
13	- 4-	-	-
14	- 4	slab	-
14 bis	- 2	-	-
15	- 2+	-	-
15 bis	- 3-	-	-
16	- 4-	slab	-
17	- 3+	mantle	-
18	- 3+	slab	-
18 bis	- 4	slab	-
19	- 4-	overhang	-
20	- 4	wall	-
20 bis	- 4+	wall	-
21	- 3-	wall	-
22	- 3-	-	-
23	- 3+	-	-
24	- 3	mantle / expo	-
25	- 2	-	-
26	- 4	traverse fltr	-
27	- 4-	expo	-
28	- 4-	slab	-
29	- 2+	wall	-
30	- 2+	-	-
31	- 3-	-	-
32	- 4	-	-
33	- 3+	crack	-
Sector Fin des Temps
1	La Fin des Temps 7a+	slightly overhanging / high	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
underneath La Grotte Béatrix. Start to the left and exit diagonally at the top.
2	- 5-	-	Aurélien Sassier / Damien Roguiez
morpho
3	Emergency 6b	wall / underclings	David Evrard
wall with a big undercling underneath La Grotte Béatrix.
4	Petite Mousse 6a	sitstart	David Evrard
4'	Slimfast 7a	wall / crack / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart at the pillar and exit via the crack in the face of the left
5	Jour de Repos 6b (6c)	sitstart / traverse frtl / wall	David Evrard
to the right of La Fin des Temps; sitstart, traverse to the left and exit in the wall
6	Contre-Emploi 6a	slab / crimps	David Evrard
to the right, on the boulder of La Fin des Temps; sitstart and exit in the slab
7	Petite Collation 6c (6c+)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
on the boulder just right of sur Emergency; sitstart at a big jug and make an traverse ascendantly to the left on slopers
		Outside the topo
Label Étoilé debout 7a (7a+)		overhang / expo	Thierry Guéguen
standing start of the big overhang 30m underneath the blue path, past the orange circuit. Accès : from the parking lot, take La Route du Languedoc towards the plateau and continue on it for 800m after La Grotte Béatrix up to the intersection with the blue path. Follow that one down the slope : the overhang is 30m underneath the boulder marked "D", in a small valley.
Morning Star 7b (7b+)		overhang / arete / expo	David Evrard
on the boulder of Label Étoilé, in the big overhang 30m underneath the blue path, after the oroange circuit. Start as for Label Étoilé, traverse slightly to the right and exit via the arete.
Label Étoilé 7b+		overhang / expo / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
big overhang 30m underneath the blue path, past the orange circuit. Sitstart on a flat orange stone with a crimp right hand and a small undercling left hand and exit in the overhang. Access : from the parking lot, take La Route du Languedoc towards the plateau and continue on it for 800m after La Grotte Béatrix up to the intersection with the blue path. Follow that one down the slope : the overhang is 30m underneath the boulder marked "D", in a small valley.
Béatrix Dalle 6c+		overhang / traverse frtl / wall	Julien Delobelle
in the "Grotte Béatrix". Start in the cave, traverse to the left and exit in the left wall.
Wobbly Block 6c		roof / sitstart	Dennis Teijsse
low sitstart of the roof on the right side of La Route du Languedoc, just before the viewpoint, the crossing with the blue path and La Grotte Béatrix.
Le Grand Chemin 7a (7a+)		traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
long traverse (40 moves) in the sector Fin des Temps, 30m to the left of La Grotte Béatrix, in the North face at the end of La Route du Languedoc.
Le Grand Chemin en aller-retour 7b		traverse	Michel Grillère
there and back of Grand Chemin, on the first boulder in the North face at the end of La Route du Languedoc.
Amstramdams 7a (7a+)		overhang / monos / expo	Damien Roguiez / Aurélien Sassier
in the sector Fin des Temps, underneath La Grotte Béatrix, 30m past Sankookaï. Start with a mono right hand, take the base of the "nose" of the overhang and exit via a mantle over a boulder.
L'Œil 6a+ (6b)		traverse fltr	Michel Grillère
in the sector Fin des Temps, in the North face, at the end of La Route du Languedoc. Ascending traverse on the boulder 20m to the left of Le Grand Chemin, when looking the top of the slope.
- 6a		traverse fltr	-
in the sector Fin des Temps, in the North face, at the end of La Route du Languedoc. Start in the wall of the boulder to the right of Le Grand Chemin (when looking the top of the slope), traverse to the right, pass a small overhang and exit in this one after the tree.
Sankookaï 7a+ (7a)		prow / dyno / expo	Stéphan Denys / Frank Scherrer
in the sector Fin des Temps, underneath orange n°30-33 and La Grotte Béatrix, near a dead tree. Slightly overhanging prow 1m50 to the left of Le Veau d'Or; dynamic start.
Le Veau d'Or 7a+		wall	Stéphan Denys / Frank Scherrer
in the sector Fin des Temps, underneath orange n°30-33 and La Grotte Béatrix, near a dead tree. Start 1m50 to the right of the overhanging prow of Sankookaï with a good hold right hand and take a good crimp left hand very far.
Le Terminus 6b		traverse fltr	Michel Grillère
in the sector Fin des Temps, in the North face, at the end of La Route du Languedoc. Traverse on the wall in the corridor to the opposite of the exit of Le Grand Chemin. NB : it is possible to combine the two traverses by doing the splits in the corridor.
La Rando 6b (6c)		traverse fltr / sitstart	Michel Grillère
in the slope, near the start of the orange circuit.
- 6c		slab	Michel Grillère
direct slab on the left face of the wall just above the boulder marked "P" on the blue path, underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit.
Vici 7a		wall	Stéphan Denys / Stéphane Brette
angle on the wall just above the boulder marked "P" on the blue path, underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Update (June 2011) : this problem has become harder since a left hand hold broke off.
Veni 7a		wall / crimps / slopers	David Evrard
central problem on the wall just above the boulder marked "P" on the blue path, underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Start in the pit and climb the wall using crimps and slopers.
- 6b		wall	Stéphan Denys / Laurent Darlot
right problem on the wall just above the boulder marked "P" on the blue path, underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Start in the pit.
Dos au Mur 6b (6c)		traverse fltr / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
sitstart and traverse to the right on the boulder to the opposite of the wall along the blue path, near the boulder marked "P", underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit.
La Bûche 6b (6c)		wall / bidoigt	Stéphan Denys / Laurent Darlot
on the boulder marked "N", along the blue path, after the start of the orange circuit.
Spélolotte 5+		overhang / pockets / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
left problem on the backside of the wall along the blue path, near the boulder marked "P", underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart to the left and exit directly.
Le Chiroptère 6a		overhang / pockets / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
central problem on the backside of the wall along the blue path, near the boulder marked "P", underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart in the middle of the overhang and exit slightly to the right.
It's a Game 7a+		traverse fltr / sitstart	David Evrard
15m underneath Léa and the blue path, on a long boulder. Sitstart to the left, traverse diagonally, cross Play it Again and exit completely to the right in the pillar. Access : from the parking lot, take La Route du Languedoc towards the plateau and continue on it for 800m after La Grotte Béatrix up to the intersection with the blue path. Follow that one down the slope : the problem is 15m underneath an evident wall, before the boulder marked "D".
Play it Again 5+ (6a)		pillar	David Evrard
15m underneath Léa and the blue path, on a long boulder. Direct problem in the pillar in the middle of the traverse of It's a Game. Access : from the parking lot, take La Route du Languedoc towards the plateau and continue on it for 800m after La Grotte Béatrix up to the intersection with the blue path. Follow that one down the slope : the problem is 15m underneath an evident wall, before the boulder marked "D".
- 6a+		slab	-
to the left of orange n°21. Start in the pit between the stones.
- 6a+		wall / bidoigt	-
diagonal without the right arete, to the right of an orange arrow, on the boulder to the opposite of orange n°21.
Léa 7b		wall / crimps / high	Michel Grillère
along the blue path, past the orange circuit. Access : from the parking lot, take La Route du Languedoc towards the plateau and continue on it for 800m after La Grotte Béatrix up to the intersection with the blue path. Follow that one down the slope : the problem is on an evident wall before the boulder marked "D".
Veni Vidi Vici 7b+		wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
on the wall just above the boulder marked "P" on the blue path, underneath and to the left of the start of the orange circuit. Start in the pit in the Veni, traverse to the big hold of the Vici and exit by that one.
Manimal 8a+		slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Olivier Lebreton
near the bottom of the slope, underneath the boulder of Veni Vidi Vici and the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart on a small stone (without crash-pad) to the right of the start of Bonne Espérance as for the nameless 6b problem, go up slightly to the left on crimps and exit in the wall by a dynamic move.
Le Cap 6b (6b+)		slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Stéphan Denys / Pascal Morel
near the bottom of the slope, underneath the boulder of Veni Vidi Vici and the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart on a small stone (without crash-pad) with the crimps of Manimal, to the right of the start of Bonne Espérance, climb the wall with the arete up to a jug, traverse to the left and exit as for Manimal.
Le Cap direct 7b		slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Neil Hart
to the right of Bonne Espérance, near the bottom of the slope, underneath the boulder of Veni Vidi Vici and the start of the orange circuit. Sitstart on a small stone (without crash-pad) as for Le Cap, dyno to the jug and exit directly.
Bonne Espérance 7a+ (7a)		traverse frtl / crack	David Evrard
near the bottom of the slope, underneath Veni Vidi Vici and the start of the orange circuit. Standing start to the right, traverse on the ramp and exit completely left, or by the crack, or by the belly (same grade).
Le Bûcheron 4-		slab	Patrick Schoenmakers
to the left and to the opposite of orange n°6, in the corridor.NB : first known realization by Patrick Schoenmakers.
Crotte de Nose 7a		crack / slightly overhanging / sitstart	François Louvel
on a boulder 5m underneath and to the right of orange n°2. Sitstart, traverse diagonally with the oblique crack and exit by a mantle above in the overhang.
Nodiff 5 (5+)		traverse fltr	David Evrard
on the boulder of Amstramdams, underneath La Grotte Béatrix and Sankookaï. Start on the left at the satrt of Amstramdams, traverse under the roof and exit with good holds on the right above a small boulder on the ground.
Évanescence 7a		roof / pinches / mantle	David Evrard
on the right face of the boulder of Amstramdams, underneath La Grotte Béatrix, 30m past Sankookaï. Start in the roof, take a horizontal hold left hand, then a pinch right hand and exit by a mantle above.

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