Bleau.info : Roche d'Hercule : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray

0	Premier de Corvée 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl / bidoigt / pockets	Gilles Cottray
just left of La Route des Butte aux Aires, 100m past La Roche d'Hercule. Start from the pillar and traverse in the South face. NB : the difficulty depends on the starting point (broken hold?)
12	G-Haine 6a	pillar	Gilles Cottray
direct pillar of blue n°17, along the blue path, on the boulder marked "G; from Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy, take path to the left of La Route de la Butte aux Aires, then the blue path on the left; the boulder is 50m further, after a tunnel
13	Pesante Heure 6b	wall	Gilles Cottray
direct of "La P.J.", to the left of Gravité, along the blue path, to the oppposite of the boulder marked "G", northridge above "La Roche d'Hercule" (yellow circuit); from Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy, take path to the left of La Route de la Butte aux Aires, then the blue path on the left; the boulder is 50m further, after a tunnel
14	Gravité 7a (6c+)	wall / bidoigt / expo	Gilles Cottray
to the oppposite of the boulder marked "G", along the blue path, northridge above "La Roche d'Hercule" (yellow circuit). From Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy, take the path to the left of La Route de la Butte aux Aires, then the blue path on the left; the boulder is 50m further, after a tunnel.
15	Mise en Bras 6a	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
traverse on two faces, to the right of the blue path, 300m from La Roche d'Hercule
16	La Pente aux Mines 6b	wall / pockets / arete	Gilles Cottray
wall with a hole and the arete, to the right of the blue path, 300m from La Roche d'Hercule, on the backside of the traverse of Mise en Bras
17	Des Versants Nord 6b+	traverse frtl / overhang	Gilles Cottray
underneath the blue path, 300m from La Roche d'Hercule, past the crossing; traverse to the left and exit via the overhang (fragile holds!)
18	L'Antre au Noir 6a	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the backside of the boulder of Des Versants Nord, underneath the blue path, 300m from La Roche d'Hercule (past the crossing)
19	Rince-Mi 7a (7a+)	roof / mantle	Gilles Cottray
to the left of Rince-Doigts, along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start at the bottom of the roof and exit via the left angle.
19b	Idiotie 6b+ (7a)	roof / mantle	Pepito
along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start in the roof at the left arete, climb the ledge of that one without convention (6b+) or using a crimp (7a, "Kikinatov") and exit at the angle as for Rince-Mi.
20	Rince-Doigts 7a (7a+)	roof / mantle	Gilles Cottray
along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start at the bottom of the roof and exit 2m to the right of Rince-Mi.
21	Trop Beau pour Toit 7a+ (7a)	roof	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Joubert
low start completely right, climb the roof, traverse to the left with the ledge and exit via the angle left of Rince-Mi. NB : the same problem without using the ledge of the overhang is an old project.
21'	Pas Vu pas Prise 6a	overhang	Guillaume Joubert / Loïc de Saint Etienne
20m to the right of Rince-Mi.
22	Le Statique d'El Frelo 6c	slightly overhanging / expo	Alain Perros / Guillaume Joubert
along the blue path, on the first boulder after Rince-Mi, before the mark "H"
22'	Le Statique d'El Lolo 6b+	slightly overhanging	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Vincent Morel
along the blue path, on the first boulder after Rince-Mi, before the mark "H"; start in Le Le Statique d’El Frelo, but go to the right and exit at the end of Le Statique d'El Momo
22''	Le Statique d'El Momo 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Vincent Morel
along the blue path, on the first boulder after Rince-Mi, before the mark "H". Sitstart with a crimp to the right of Le Statique d’El Frelo and exit directly with pockets.
23	Icarnation 6a	roof / high	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Alain Perros
along the blue path, on the second boulder after Rince-Mi; the problem is 40m past Le Statique d'El Frelo and 15m after the mark "H", just right of a tree
23'	Ça Passe ou ça Casse 6b	slightly overhanging / high	Guillaume Joubert / Loïc de Saint Etienne
15m to the left of Icarnation. NB : the big flake in the middle of the overhng may be fragile.
24	Pas de Panique 5-	wall / high	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Alain Perros
along the blue path, on the second boulder after Rince-Mi. The problem is 10m past Le Icarnation, 25m after the mark "H".
24'	El Velibo 6c	slightly overhanging	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Vincent Morel
on the second part of the platière after Rince-Mi, to the right of Pas de Panique; start at the angle on the left and exit via the crack
24''	Fenbren le Fou 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne
on the second part of the platière after Rince-Mi, to the right of Pas de Panique. Sitstart to the right of El Velibo with both hands on the step and exit directly in the axe of the starting holds.
24'''	Fenbren le gauche 7a	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
on the second part of the platière after Rince-Mi, to the right of Pas de Panique. Sitstart to the right of El Velibo with both hands on the step as for Fenbren le Fou but exit on the left by a dynamic move from the arete.
25	Faux Rêveur 5	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
to the left of the boulder marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule"; traverse to the right to the right of Rêve Errance and exit in the middle of the face (fragile holds!)
26	Rêve Errance 7c (7c+)	prow / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
100m to the East of Rince-Mi. Start in the back of the overhanging prow, to the left of the boulder marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule".
26'	Alvinas la Reine 6c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne
along the blue path, above Rêve Errance.
26b	Sotos 7b	overhang	Olivier Roman
1m to the right of Rêve Errance, 100m to the East of Rince-Mi. Start in the back of the overhanging prow, to the left of the boulder marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule". Standing start with the lip of the roof and exit above with a characteristic small crack.
28	Et Vanne et Sang 6b	-	Gilles Cottray
diagonal to the right, on the boulder to the right of Rêve Errance and to the left to the one marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule"
29	M'Éprise 6c+ (7a)	traverse frtl / pockets	Gilles Cottray
traverse on two faces, underneath the blue path, 40m from Rêve Errance, just past the crossing with La Route de l'Abbé Guénée when coming from La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the right angle with a pierced pocket, traverse a first face on round holds, pass the angle, continue in the second face with low big pockets and exit at the very end. NB : the boulder has recently been rebrushed (April 2011).
		Outside the topo
Gazoline 7a		slightly overhanging	Philippe Le Denmat
second problem to the left of Le Pilier, on the "Roche d'Hercule". Start with the jug and exit to the right.
La Traversée de Gazoline 7b+		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Emmanuel Gand
on the big boulder of La Roche d'Hercule. Sitstart under the character X, traverse to the left, pass the pillar up to the start of Gazoline and exit in that one.
Gros Bidon 6b		arete / slab	Philippe Le Denmat
just right of the boulder of La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the arete as for De-Ci De-Là, but exit to the left in the slab.
De-Ci De-Là 7b+ (7b)		arete / slopers	Manuel Marquès
just right of the boulder of La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the arete as for Gros Bidon, but exit directly using only slopers on both sides.
Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule 6b (6c)		pillar / slightly overhanging / high	-
juste above Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy; direct exit.
Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule assis 6c+ (7a)		overhang / sitstart / high	-
sitstart of Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule.
Dyslexie 6c		pillar / slopers	Pascal Etienne
on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule (boulder of Mon Ami Pierrot). Start to the left of the pillar, above white n°8 (of the children's circuit) and exit on the right side.
Dyslexie assis 7a		pillar / slopers / sitstart	Marc Lehner
on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule (boulder of Mon Ami Pierrot). Sitstart without crash-pad and climb the pillar of Dyslexie.
Mon Ami Pierrot 7a+		traverse frtl	Franck Merckel
on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule. Sitstart in the corridor, traverse to the left in the tunnel, pass a nameless pillar and exit completely to the left of the boulder.
Le Trou Noir 6b		wall / bidoigt	-
just left of Gazoline, on La Roche d'Hercule. Start with the big jug (or to its left) and exit via bidoigts.
Orange Mécanique 7a		wall	Nicolas Doignon
between Gazoline and Le Pilier, on La Roche d'Hercule.
Cahin-Caha 7a+		traverse frtl / slab	-
on the boulder to the right of La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the right angle, traverse on big holds, pass the arete of De-Ci De-Là and exit in the slab to the left without the base boulder.
Percolation Aléatoire 7b		overhang / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
from the parking lot of Carrefour du Mont Ussy (Rocher d'Hercule), take the Route du Mont Ussy for 200m in direction of the main sector, and turn right at a path for 20m. The boulder is on the right, among a small chaos, just above an old yellow number. Sitstart and exit directly.
Percolation Critique 7b		overhang / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
from the parking lot of Carrefour du Mont Ussy (Rocher d'Hercule), take the Route du Mont Ussy for 200m in direction of the main sector, and turn right at a path for 20m. The boulder is on the right, among a small chaos, just above an old yellow number. Sitstart and exit via the crack.
Le Gruyère 4+		wall / pockets	-
on the right of the pillar of La Roche d'Hercule (sitstart is 5c).
L'Oublié 6b		pillar / sitstart	-
sitstart of the pillar to the right of Le Gruyère, on the boulder of La Roche d'Hercule.
Not Inspiration 6a		pillar / sitstart	-
pillar at the start of the traverse of Cahin-Caha, on the boulder to the opposite of La Roche d'Hercule.
Calmos 5+		wall / high	-
on the North face of La Roche d'Hercule, to the left of the tunnel when coming from the parking lot.
Idée Courte 6b+		roof / pockets	-
on the boulder with the character "I". Low start completely right, climb the roof and exit directly above.
Idée Fixe 6c+		roof / pockets	-
on the boulder with the character "I". Low start completely right, climb the roof, traverse to the left with the top holds and exit via the angle as for Rince-Mi.
Proue S 6a		prow / mantle / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne
in the slope above La Roche d'Hercule, near the dynamited boulder. Start in the overhang, take the arete left hanf and exit at the top.
Sigma le Cavalier 5		arete / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne
above La Roche d'Hercule, near the dynamited boulder.
La Fissure 5+		crack	-
evident crack on the boulder just right of La Roche d'Hercule.
Hercule Poirot 6a		slightly overhanging	-
to the left of Le Trou Noir, just right of the tunnel, on La Roche d'Hercule.
La Dynamo 5-		wall	-
to the right of Dyslexie, on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule (boulder of Mon Ami Pierrot).
Abribus 7a+		roof / traverse	Pascal Etienne
loop on the boulder marked "I", along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule. Start in the middle of the roof at a step, low traverse to the left, climb the left arete and then the ledge as for Idiotie, pass the exit angle of Rince-Mi, continue to traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb on rather fragile holds low traverse to the left for 1m50 and exit in Idée Fixe.
Kérosène 7a		traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	Eric Létot
standing start to the left of Gazoline, traverse to the start of that one, continue to the right and exit in Le Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule.
Kérosène assis 7b		traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Cédric Morel
sitstart to the left of Gazoline, traverse to the start of that one, continue to the right and exit in Le Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule.
Trou Love 6b		roof	-
central problem on the boulder with the character "I". Low start to the right of Rince Doigts, climb the roof with pockets and exit above.
Le Vrai Travail 6c		roof	Pascal Etienne
in a cave 30m to the South of Proue S, in the slope above La Roche d'Hercule, near the dynamited boulder. Low start in the roof and exit with knobs.

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