Bleau.info : Gorges du Houx : Topo

Bleau.info : Gorges du Houx : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

1	Bledina 3+	-	-

2	La Paisible 3	-	-

3	Le Piano Droit 3	-	-

4	Cach-Cache 4	-	-

5	Bout d'Chou 5	-	-

6	Jo le Rapide 5	-	-

7	Le Poignées 4+	-	-

8	Les Osselets 5	-	-

9	Black Canard 4	-	-

9'	- 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr / crimps	-
on the boulder to the opposite of the one marked "J", on the other side of the blue path; start in n°9, exit in n°6 without the arete
10	Samba 5-	slab	-
left problem on the face of JJ Dalle.
11	Initial BB 6b	slab	-
just left of JJ Dalle, on the boulder of L'Éperon Sauvage.
12	JJ Dalle 6b	slab	Marc Montchaussé
first slab to the left of L'Éperon Sauvage (20m from the boulder marked "J", on the other side of the path)
13	L'Échappée Belle 6a	slab	Pepito / Bruno Riote
20m from the boulder marked "J", on the other side of the blue path. Start as for L'Éperon Sauvage but exit via the slab.
14	L'Éperon Sauvage 7a	arete / slab / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
on the backside of the boulder 20m from the one marked "J", on the other side of the path; exit via the arete.
15	Satanic 6a	-	-
left problem on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the one marked "J".
16	Le Nain de Jardin 5-	-	-
right problem on the boulder to the left of the blue path, after the one marked "J".
17	La Blanchisserie 6a+	slab / arete	Pepito
right problem on the slab to the right of Titanique (boulder marked "J").
18	J1 6b+ (6c)	slab	Marc Montchaussé
central problem on the slab to the right of Titanique (boulder marked "J").
19	- 6b (6a)	-	-
between J1 and J2, on the boulder marked "J".
20	J2 6a+ (6b)	slab / crack	Marc Montchaussé
left problem on the slab to the right of Titanique (boulder marked "J").
21	Titanique 7b+	prow / overhang	Stéphane Brette
on the left of the boulder marked "J" (sitstart on the small boulder underneath by F. Scherrer).
21	Titanique assis 7c	roof / prow	Frank Scherrer
sitstart de Titanique.
22	La Grattouille 5	-	-
on the Eastern face of the bouler marked "J".
23	L'Air de rien 5	-	-

24	Attention Fragile 5+ (5)	slightly overhanging / mantle	Marc Montchaussé
on the boulder marked "J", to the left of Titanique.
25	Le Réta Piscine 6b	mantle	-
left problem on the backside of the boulder just after the one marked "J".
26	Les Valseuses 5+	-	-
on the West face of the boulder marked "J"; morpho.
27	J'y Crois 6b	-	-
right problem on the boulder just after the one marked "J", along the blue path.
28	Le Doigt Coincé 5	-	-
central problem on the boulder just after the one marked "J", along the blue path.
29	La Côte Fêlée 4-	-	-
left problem on the boulder just after the one marked "J", along the blue path.
30	Le P'tit Coup 5	-	-

31	L'Indien 4	-	-

32	Essai 40 4	-	-

33	Dîtes le... 5	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
34	Maman Bobo 4	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
35	Le Bon Élan 5	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
36	La Margoulette 6a	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
37	Fado 2	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
38	St Patrick 5+	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
39	Passage Obligé 6b	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
40	Vas-y Francky 5	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
41	La Montagne 5+	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
42	Le Coquillage 4	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
43	Alien 4	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
44	Le Calice 6c	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
45	Sale Pou 5-	-	-
in the South part of the sector.
46	La Mâchoire 3	-	-

47	La Révérence 3	-	-

48	Maudit Baquet 5-	-	-

49	Alléluia 6a	-	-

50	La Deudeuche 2+	-	-

51	La Vraie Quiche 5	-	-
right problem on the Western face of the boulder marked "I".
52	Le Petit Chien 5	arete	Marc Montchaussé
along the blue path.
53	Tire Ailleurs 5-	-	-

54	La Rigolade 6a	-	-

55	Grattonade 4-	slab / crimps	Marc Montchaussé
along the blue path.
56	Le Berlingo 3	arete	Marc Montchaussé
along the blue path.
57	La Vie en Marge 4+	-	-

58	Le Menhir 5+	arete	Marc Montchaussé
along the blue path.
59	Traîne Savate 4-	-	-

60	Jeu sans Frontière 3+	-	-

61	Les Deux Arêtes 3	arete	-

62	Bon Début 3+	-	-

63	Le Toblerone 5-	-	-

64	Cochon de Sanglier 4+	arete	Marc Montchaussé
left problem on the boulder marked "I", along the blue path.
65	L'I de gauche 5 (5+)	-	-
to the left on the boulder marked "I", along the blue path.
66	L'I de droite 6a	pillar / slopers	Marc Montchaussé
right problem on the boulder marked "I", along the blue path.
67	Auprès de mon Arbre 6b	expo	-
on the Eastern face of the boulder marked "I".
68	Le Virus 4-	-	-
left problem on the North face of the boulder marked "I".
69	Grain de Beauté 4+	-	-
right problem on the North face of the boulder marked "I".
70	Odin 5+	-	-
left problem on the Western face of the boulder marked "I".
71	Thor 2+	-	-


		Outside the topo
Pleine Lune 7a		overhang / mantle	Julien Nadiras
to the right of De La Terre à la Lune, on the boulder to the left of L'Inaccessible Absolu.
Ligne de Mire 7a		wall / slopers	Marc Montchaussé
underneath Gargantoit.
La Dalle 6c+		slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
direct slab on the backside of the boulder of Soirée Cubaine (boulder with an asterisk ∗)
Soirée Cubaine 7b		wall / crimps / dyno	Gilles Bernigolle
to the opposite of L'Arête. Left slab with an asterisk ∗ on its bottom.
Gargantoit 7a+ (7a)		overhang	Marc Montchaussé
along blue path n°8, on the boulder marked "H", in the bivouac. (GPS: N48.403150 E2.653280)
Gargantoit assis 7b+ (7c)		overhang	Marc Montchaussé
sitstart of Gargantoit. Several versions are possible : via right (7b+), middle (7c) or left (7b+). (GPS: N48.403150 E2.653280)
Objectif Lune 7a+		overhang / dyno	Philippe Dumez
on the center of the boulder marked "E", 30m to the left of L'Inaccessible Absolu. (GPS: N48.404000 E2.655160)
Extrémiste 7b (7a+)		wall / slopers	Marc Montchaussé
200m of Carrefour de Franchière, to the right of the path when coming from Gargantoit. Left exit is 7b.
Raidemption 7b+		wall / crimps	Marc Montchaussé
to the left of Émail Diamant, on the backside of the boulder above Ligne de Mire, in a corridor.
L'Inaccessible Absolu 7c (7b+)		wall / high / expo	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
from the Carrefour de Franchière, take the blue path n°8; the boulder is just left of the prow with the mark F; expo.
L'Inaccessible Absolu assis 8a+		sitstart / wall / high	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
sitstart of L'Inaccessible Absolu.
De la Terre à la Lune 7c+		pinches	Marc Le Ménestrel
on the boulder marked "E", to the right of Objectif Lune.
Terre à Terre 7c+		traverse fltr	Marc Le Ménestrel
boulder marked "E" (with Objectif Lune).
Féerie 7c		overhang / dyno	Sébastien Frigault
With the back facing Gargantoit follow the ridge, belly after 200m at the left. Jumpstart (or static, 8a). (GPS: N48.402730 E2.654830)
Émail Diamant 7b (7b+)		wall / pillar / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of Raidemption, at the end of a corridor, on the backside of the boulder above Ligne de Mire.
Prise de Risque 7a		wall / expo	Thierry Guéguen
along blue path n°8, just after Gargantoit, to the opposite of Euphorie; exit to the left.
Écaille de Lune 7c (7b+)		sitstart / roof	Thibaut le Scour
sitstart of the boulder marked "A". From carrefour Franchiere, follow the sentier Bleu 150m past L'Inaccessible Absolu. (GPS: N48.406100 E2.654390)
Mille-Pattes 7a		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Vasseur
to the left of Écaille de Lune, on the boulder marked "A", 150m past L'Inaccessible Absolu.
Titanus 7a		slightly overhanging / dyno / crack	Stéphan Denys
underneath Raidemption. Jumpstart into hole left and finish in a crack.
Euphorie 7b		roof / slab / expo	Olivier Lebreton
along blue path n°8, in the middle of the bivouac with Gargantoit. Start in the roof and exit in the slab. NB : the boulder has been brushed again in March 2005.
L'Arête 7a+ (7a)		roof / arete	Marc Montchaussé
sitstart roof/arete with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path.
Vol à la Clé 7a		arete / slopers / expo	Pepito
left problem on the boulder of Diapason, 50m to the south of the intersection of La Route des Gorges de Franchard and La Route du Renard. Start with a crimp left hand and exit via the round arete.
Kournikova 7a+ (7a)		slightly overhanging / arete	Govert Schoof
from Ligne de Mire, further downwards, tending right. Second boulder past that one, on the right arete. A small boulder lies underneath at the right.
Sexual Frusti 6a		slightly overhanging	Sebastian Spauwen / Govert Schoof
to the left of Ligne de Mire.
Couille de Lune 7a		sitstart / traverse fltr / crimps	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of De La Terre à la Lune. Sitstart on the left, traverse right and exit on crimps to the left of Objectif Lune.
Londinium 8a		pillar / high	Julien Nadiras
on the overhanging pillar to the right of L'Inaccessible Absolu. NB : project n°18 in the first edition of the topo "7+8".
Transition 6c		slightly overhanging	Jo Montchaussé
on the boulder to the right of Ligne de Mire.
D'une Pierre Deux Coups 7a		overhang / slab / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
along blue path n°8, in the middle of the bivouac with Gargantoit. Start as for Euphorie, continue to the left and exit in the slab (take the arete only at the end). NB : Very high boulder (8m).
Le Tajine 8a+		slightly overhanging / arete / slopers	Julien Nadiras / Vincent Pochon
arete to the right of Londinium, on the backside of the boulder of L'Inaccessible Absolu.
Samba Carioca 6b		wall / arete	Marc Montchaussé
two boulders underneath L'Arête (boulder along the blue path with an asterisk).
Rataplat 6c+		slopers / mantle	Pepito
to the left of Samba Carioca, two boulders underneath L'Arête (boulder along the blue path with an asterisk ∗).
Bras Long 6a		wall	Marc Montchaussé
to the right of Samba Carioca, two boulders underneath L'Arête (boulder along the blue path with an asterisk); morpho.
- 5		slab / crimps	Marc Montchaussé
to the left of L'Arête and to the opposite of Soirée Cubaine (boulders marked with an with the asterisk ∗).
La Grotte de Charlotte et Marguerite 7a+		roof / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
small roof on a boulder marked "I", 100m to the opposite of another boulder (also marked "I") along the blue path n°8-8, after the characteristic passage of "Sylphes", with letter "J". Sitstart, climb the roof without touching the boulder on the left and exit via a mantle.
Modus Vivendi 6b+		wall	Marc Montchaussé
on the boulder to the opposite of L'Arête (boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path).
Protocole 6b		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
on the face to the right of Modus Vivendi.
Jeu d'Écriture 5+		wall	Pepito
to the right of L'Arête (boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path).
Littérature 5+		slab	Marc Montchaussé
to the right of Protocole.
Jeu d'Orgues 6b		crack	Marc Montchaussé
on the boulder to the right and underneath L'Arête (boulder with the asterisk ∗, along the blue path).
- 6a		slab	Marc Montchaussé
left problem on the boulder along the path in direction of the one marked "F".
- 6a		slab	Marc Montchaussé
right problem on the boulder along the path in direction of the one marked "F".
Transition directe 6c		wall	Pepito
direct wall just left of Transition.
Diapason 6a (6b)		wall	Pepito
right problem on the boulder of Vol à la Clé, 50m to the South of the intersection of La Route des Gorges de Franchard and La Route du Renard.
Du Soleil à la Lune 8a		traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
sitstart completely left as for Couille de Lune, traverse to the right and exit in De la Terre à la Lune.

Bleau.info : Gorges du Houx : Topo

Outside the topo